Force9

Building the conning tower and funnel continues. 

Splinter shielding has been added to the various conning tower decks. A venturi (wind deflector) will be added to two of the bridge decks soon. 

The funnel is under construction around the uptake casing. The circular structure on the funnel's forward side is a quad 40mm Bofors mount tub. The mount's director will be placed in a small tub on top of the boxy structure seen here aft of the Bofors tub.
 


 
Some overall views at this point:
 

Cheers Frank and Popeye!
 
Folks -
 
I've reached that point in the build where there is nothing more I can do to delay the inevitable... I have to start accounting for the rigging and making sure that I've incorporated the necessary end points into the half hulls before I start to glue it all together.  
 
I consulted the usual suspects:
 
1. The Revell rigging plans
2. The Bluejacket kit manual and rigging plans - Larry Arnot/Tyrone Martin
3. AOTS USS Constitution - Karl Heinz Marquardt
4. CONSTITUTION - All Sails Up and Flying - Olof Eriksen
5. The Charles Ware 1817 Sail plan (National Archives)
6. The "Hull" model in the Peabody Essex Museum (PEM) collection.
 
I've been poring over these different representations of the rigging layout of Old Ironsides for many months and have started to form some sort of plan.  For the most part I will follow the guidance of Olof Eriksen, but fall back on the Bluejacket plans in some cases.  Eriksen's work is focused on her 1815 configuration, so I'll try to insert some 1812 era modifications wherever appropriate - mostly using the Hull model for corrections.  Ultimately this is all going to involve a fair bit of guesswork and intuition tempered by the realities imposed by the Revell model itself. In some cases the molding of the hull will impose limitations that are more than I'm willing to modify - I'll just roll with what is there.
 
Here is my first compromise:
 

 

 
Some may recall that I eliminated the chesstree included in the kit and filled in the holes at the gun deck level that originally allowed for the Fore Sheet and Main Tack to enter and get tied off within... I just feel that by 1812 these lines would've been led to the spar deck to allow for better control and coordination.  Eriksen shows the Fore Sheet entering thru a sheave in the spar deck bulwark just forward of the last carronade before the break in the bulwark at the waist.  The Revell kit does not have much of a bulwark at that point.  I couldn't widen it because the "entry port" is situated here with the cleats/steps leading up the side.  I was not willing to move that stuff over with all that scratch building... Marquardt offers a solution.  He shows a sheave added on the waist for the Fore Sheet to pass thru and tie off to a cleat mounted nearby on the deck.  Do I think this is historically accurate?  Nah... But it suits my purpose.
 
The first eyebolt near the sheave is the tie off for the Fore Sheet.  The eyebolt mounted forward on the waist near the fo'c's'le bulwark will eventually have a block mounted for the Main Tack to lead inboard. I still need to drill the hole just aft of the fore channel for the Main Tack tie off point.
 
Here is the sheave I cut into the spar deck bulwark for the Main Sheet:
 

 
I mounted a cleat on the inside to tie off the Main Sheet:

 
More to come shortly
 
Thanks for the interest
 
Evan

Cheers Frank and Popeye!
 
Folks -
 
I've reached that point in the build where there is nothing more I can do to delay the inevitable... I have to start accounting for the rigging and making sure that I've incorporated the necessary end points into the half hulls before I start to glue it all together.  
 
I consulted the usual suspects:
 
1. The Revell rigging plans
2. The Bluejacket kit manual and rigging plans - Larry Arnot/Tyrone Martin
3. AOTS USS Constitution - Karl Heinz Marquardt
4. CONSTITUTION - All Sails Up and Flying - Olof Eriksen
5. The Charles Ware 1817 Sail plan (National Archives)
6. The "Hull" model in the Peabody Essex Museum (PEM) collection.
 
I've been poring over these different representations of the rigging layout of Old Ironsides for many months and have started to form some sort of plan.  For the most part I will follow the guidance of Olof Eriksen, but fall back on the Bluejacket plans in some cases.  Eriksen's work is focused on her 1815 configuration, so I'll try to insert some 1812 era modifications wherever appropriate - mostly using the Hull model for corrections.  Ultimately this is all going to involve a fair bit of guesswork and intuition tempered by the realities imposed by the Revell model itself. In some cases the molding of the hull will impose limitations that are more than I'm willing to modify - I'll just roll with what is there.
 
Here is my first compromise:
 

 

 
Some may recall that I eliminated the chesstree included in the kit and filled in the holes at the gun deck level that originally allowed for the Fore Sheet and Main Tack to enter and get tied off within... I just feel that by 1812 these lines would've been led to the spar deck to allow for better control and coordination.  Eriksen shows the Fore Sheet entering thru a sheave in the spar deck bulwark just forward of the last carronade before the break in the bulwark at the waist.  The Revell kit does not have much of a bulwark at that point.  I couldn't widen it because the "entry port" is situated here with the cleats/steps leading up the side.  I was not willing to move that stuff over with all that scratch building... Marquardt offers a solution.  He shows a sheave added on the waist for the Fore Sheet to pass thru and tie off to a cleat mounted nearby on the deck.  Do I think this is historically accurate?  Nah... But it suits my purpose.
 
The first eyebolt near the sheave is the tie off for the Fore Sheet.  The eyebolt mounted forward on the waist near the fo'c's'le bulwark will eventually have a block mounted for the Main Tack to lead inboard. I still need to drill the hole just aft of the fore channel for the Main Tack tie off point.
 
Here is the sheave I cut into the spar deck bulwark for the Main Sheet:
 

 
I mounted a cleat on the inside to tie off the Main Sheet:

 
More to come shortly
 
Thanks for the interest
 
Evan

So... A couple of comedians!    Don't people remember that she was called "Old Ironsides"???!! - She never absorbed any damage!  Everything bounced off!!!  Well, at least it all bounced off for my model.
 
 
Here is the latest...
 
It is amazing how many holes need to be drilled into a sailing ship model!  I've been busy with the mini spiral drill and #76 bit for the past few weekends.
 
It is also amazing to uncover the various nuances that go into these builds.  I've been drilling the many small holes for the Jotika eyelets that will be installed around the interior of the gun ports.  
 
Most references indicate the breeching terminating on a ring bolt positioned near the trucks in line with the bottom of the gun port.  The outhaul tackle, however, is often shown leading at an angle to an eyelet positioned about midway between the two guns.  It would seem to me to be more efficient if this tackle ran more parallel to the gun barrel - no waste in lateral effort when hauling on the tackle.  That would seem to be the arrangement on most of the contemporary ship models... An eyebolt for the outhaul tackle positioned about midway up on the gun port and near the opening.  The ring bolt for the breeching rope positioned directly below in line with the bottom of the port.
 
We can also see this type of set up on the remarkable War of 1812 wrecks of the Hamilton and Scourge that lie preserved at the bottom of Lake Ontario. Both were swamped by a sudden squall and lost at the same time.  (Actually the wrecks were once remarkably well preserved but have now become encrusted with an invasive species of mussel):
 

The boarding cutlasses are very cool.
 
Here is the approach I took:

 
None of these eyelets are glued in... Just a sample of positioning.  I'll blacken them and glue the upper eyelets, but I'll attach the lower ring bolts to the breeching rope when I rig the cannon off the ship before attaching these to the bulwarks.
 
Evan

Cheers Frank and Popeye!
 
Folks -
 
I've reached that point in the build where there is nothing more I can do to delay the inevitable... I have to start accounting for the rigging and making sure that I've incorporated the necessary end points into the half hulls before I start to glue it all together.  
 
I consulted the usual suspects:
 
1. The Revell rigging plans
2. The Bluejacket kit manual and rigging plans - Larry Arnot/Tyrone Martin
3. AOTS USS Constitution - Karl Heinz Marquardt
4. CONSTITUTION - All Sails Up and Flying - Olof Eriksen
5. The Charles Ware 1817 Sail plan (National Archives)
6. The "Hull" model in the Peabody Essex Museum (PEM) collection.
 
I've been poring over these different representations of the rigging layout of Old Ironsides for many months and have started to form some sort of plan.  For the most part I will follow the guidance of Olof Eriksen, but fall back on the Bluejacket plans in some cases.  Eriksen's work is focused on her 1815 configuration, so I'll try to insert some 1812 era modifications wherever appropriate - mostly using the Hull model for corrections.  Ultimately this is all going to involve a fair bit of guesswork and intuition tempered by the realities imposed by the Revell model itself. In some cases the molding of the hull will impose limitations that are more than I'm willing to modify - I'll just roll with what is there.
 
Here is my first compromise:
 

 

 
Some may recall that I eliminated the chesstree included in the kit and filled in the holes at the gun deck level that originally allowed for the Fore Sheet and Main Tack to enter and get tied off within... I just feel that by 1812 these lines would've been led to the spar deck to allow for better control and coordination.  Eriksen shows the Fore Sheet entering thru a sheave in the spar deck bulwark just forward of the last carronade before the break in the bulwark at the waist.  The Revell kit does not have much of a bulwark at that point.  I couldn't widen it because the "entry port" is situated here with the cleats/steps leading up the side.  I was not willing to move that stuff over with all that scratch building... Marquardt offers a solution.  He shows a sheave added on the waist for the Fore Sheet to pass thru and tie off to a cleat mounted nearby on the deck.  Do I think this is historically accurate?  Nah... But it suits my purpose.
 
The first eyebolt near the sheave is the tie off for the Fore Sheet.  The eyebolt mounted forward on the waist near the fo'c's'le bulwark will eventually have a block mounted for the Main Tack to lead inboard. I still need to drill the hole just aft of the fore channel for the Main Tack tie off point.
 
Here is the sheave I cut into the spar deck bulwark for the Main Sheet:
 

 
I mounted a cleat on the inside to tie off the Main Sheet:

 
More to come shortly
 
Thanks for the interest
 
Evan

Cheers Frank and Popeye!
 
Folks -
 
I've reached that point in the build where there is nothing more I can do to delay the inevitable... I have to start accounting for the rigging and making sure that I've incorporated the necessary end points into the half hulls before I start to glue it all together.  
 
I consulted the usual suspects:
 
1. The Revell rigging plans
2. The Bluejacket kit manual and rigging plans - Larry Arnot/Tyrone Martin
3. AOTS USS Constitution - Karl Heinz Marquardt
4. CONSTITUTION - All Sails Up and Flying - Olof Eriksen
5. The Charles Ware 1817 Sail plan (National Archives)
6. The "Hull" model in the Peabody Essex Museum (PEM) collection.
 
I've been poring over these different representations of the rigging layout of Old Ironsides for many months and have started to form some sort of plan.  For the most part I will follow the guidance of Olof Eriksen, but fall back on the Bluejacket plans in some cases.  Eriksen's work is focused on her 1815 configuration, so I'll try to insert some 1812 era modifications wherever appropriate - mostly using the Hull model for corrections.  Ultimately this is all going to involve a fair bit of guesswork and intuition tempered by the realities imposed by the Revell model itself. In some cases the molding of the hull will impose limitations that are more than I'm willing to modify - I'll just roll with what is there.
 
Here is my first compromise:
 

 

 
Some may recall that I eliminated the chesstree included in the kit and filled in the holes at the gun deck level that originally allowed for the Fore Sheet and Main Tack to enter and get tied off within... I just feel that by 1812 these lines would've been led to the spar deck to allow for better control and coordination.  Eriksen shows the Fore Sheet entering thru a sheave in the spar deck bulwark just forward of the last carronade before the break in the bulwark at the waist.  The Revell kit does not have much of a bulwark at that point.  I couldn't widen it because the "entry port" is situated here with the cleats/steps leading up the side.  I was not willing to move that stuff over with all that scratch building... Marquardt offers a solution.  He shows a sheave added on the waist for the Fore Sheet to pass thru and tie off to a cleat mounted nearby on the deck.  Do I think this is historically accurate?  Nah... But it suits my purpose.
 
The first eyebolt near the sheave is the tie off for the Fore Sheet.  The eyebolt mounted forward on the waist near the fo'c's'le bulwark will eventually have a block mounted for the Main Tack to lead inboard. I still need to drill the hole just aft of the fore channel for the Main Tack tie off point.
 
Here is the sheave I cut into the spar deck bulwark for the Main Sheet:
 

 
I mounted a cleat on the inside to tie off the Main Sheet:

 
More to come shortly
 
Thanks for the interest
 
Evan

Thank you all for the LIKES!
 
Now let's discuss the kit gun barrels...
 
We know that the 1807 pattern 24 pdrs on Constitution measured 9' 6" and the OOB versions match nicely:
 

 
The kit provided barrels are perfectly fine, but they lack a certain menace... They seem a bit thin to me. With that in mind, I had included some of the white metal versions in one of my Bluejacket orders for comparison:
 

 
These are a nicer fit, I think... They have more of the requisite girth I'm looking for and they generally show similar proportions to the 1794 pattern preserved in South Carolina:
 

 
But where have I seen a barrel like that before...? Aha - the Heller Victory:
 

 
The Heller kit includes a bunch of these barrels to represent both the 32 pdr and the 24 pdrs on the lower decks. I have two Heller Victory kits, so it'd be no big deal to repurpose a set for my Connie build. Heck, I could utilize the Connie 24 pdrs on the Victory down the line...
 
Now notice how the trunnions are represented on the Heller versions... They sit off center down lower. We see this in the 1794 pattern barrel as well. This positioning allowed for a better depression angle when sitting in the gun carriage, but was inherently weaker than center cast trunnions. The 1807 pattern 24 pdrs apparently utilized the trunnions on the centerline.
 
Here is how the barrels would need to sit if the barrel is mounted properly:

This looks fine, but the upward angle is a little awkward sticking out of the gun port. Mounting the same barrel upside down gives a better angle out of the gun port and sits down nicely in the carriage:

But the gnawing fact remains that it is upside down. The solution is to remove the molded trunnions and add the properly centered trunnions:

 
Much better. Looks like I have more holes to drill... Be back in a week or so!
 
Thx
Evan

Thanks Dave, Tim , Daniel, and Chris!

Tim - the "Creating a Legend" book has some sketches of the concept of the interlocking planks, but they just reflect what I tried on my gun deck. Martin says they spanned about 40 feet between each interlocking join, but the restored ship has them much shorter...

Your insight regarding the transfer of crew and guns to the great lakes is very interesting. The timing of the crew transfer may have been the spring of 1813 rather than September 1812.  I don't think the General Pike even started construction until April 1813.  I think most of the Constitution crew from the Guerriere battle stayed intact and participated in the Java win. Bainbridge apparently sent several contingents of crew to the Lakes after he returned from his cruise and the Constitution began her more extensive 1813 refit.
 
http://usscm.blogspot.com/2013/04/you-know-how-to-beat-those-fellows.html
 
I've only seen a reference to the General Pike being armed with the "1794 pattern" 24 pounders - the shorter versions similar to what was removed from Constitution in 1808. Tyrone Martin says that the old Constitution guns were generally repurposed for the gunboat fleet favored by Jefferson.

It may be that some of these shorter Constitution versions still exist... Here are some 1794 versions displayed at the entrance to the old armory in Savannah, Georgia:



These are numbered 83 and 81 and researchers believe they are part of the original batch of 90 that were delivered to the navy for use in the new frigates. It may be that these were used to bombard Tripoli in Preble's day.

They measure 105 inches in length and are marked as weighing 46-0-0 hundred weight - about 5040 lbs. The Eagle emblem is very cool... We all need to sweet talk Daniel/Dafi into creating scale PE versions for our next builds!

http://markerhunter.wordpress.com/2010/03/06/early-american-navy-24-pdr-guns/

http://www.captainsclerk.info/speaks/book07.html

http://www.napoleon-series.org/military/Warof1812/2006/Issue3/c_ussconstitutionguns.html

Good stuff!
Evan

Cheers Frank and Popeye!
 
Folks -
 
I've reached that point in the build where there is nothing more I can do to delay the inevitable... I have to start accounting for the rigging and making sure that I've incorporated the necessary end points into the half hulls before I start to glue it all together.  
 
I consulted the usual suspects:
 
1. The Revell rigging plans
2. The Bluejacket kit manual and rigging plans - Larry Arnot/Tyrone Martin
3. AOTS USS Constitution - Karl Heinz Marquardt
4. CONSTITUTION - All Sails Up and Flying - Olof Eriksen
5. The Charles Ware 1817 Sail plan (National Archives)
6. The "Hull" model in the Peabody Essex Museum (PEM) collection.
 
I've been poring over these different representations of the rigging layout of Old Ironsides for many months and have started to form some sort of plan.  For the most part I will follow the guidance of Olof Eriksen, but fall back on the Bluejacket plans in some cases.  Eriksen's work is focused on her 1815 configuration, so I'll try to insert some 1812 era modifications wherever appropriate - mostly using the Hull model for corrections.  Ultimately this is all going to involve a fair bit of guesswork and intuition tempered by the realities imposed by the Revell model itself. In some cases the molding of the hull will impose limitations that are more than I'm willing to modify - I'll just roll with what is there.
 
Here is my first compromise:
 

 

 
Some may recall that I eliminated the chesstree included in the kit and filled in the holes at the gun deck level that originally allowed for the Fore Sheet and Main Tack to enter and get tied off within... I just feel that by 1812 these lines would've been led to the spar deck to allow for better control and coordination.  Eriksen shows the Fore Sheet entering thru a sheave in the spar deck bulwark just forward of the last carronade before the break in the bulwark at the waist.  The Revell kit does not have much of a bulwark at that point.  I couldn't widen it because the "entry port" is situated here with the cleats/steps leading up the side.  I was not willing to move that stuff over with all that scratch building... Marquardt offers a solution.  He shows a sheave added on the waist for the Fore Sheet to pass thru and tie off to a cleat mounted nearby on the deck.  Do I think this is historically accurate?  Nah... But it suits my purpose.
 
The first eyebolt near the sheave is the tie off for the Fore Sheet.  The eyebolt mounted forward on the waist near the fo'c's'le bulwark will eventually have a block mounted for the Main Tack to lead inboard. I still need to drill the hole just aft of the fore channel for the Main Tack tie off point.
 
Here is the sheave I cut into the spar deck bulwark for the Main Sheet:
 

 
I mounted a cleat on the inside to tie off the Main Sheet:

 
More to come shortly
 
Thanks for the interest
 
Evan

So... A couple of comedians!    Don't people remember that she was called "Old Ironsides"???!! - She never absorbed any damage!  Everything bounced off!!!  Well, at least it all bounced off for my model.
 
 
Here is the latest...
 
It is amazing how many holes need to be drilled into a sailing ship model!  I've been busy with the mini spiral drill and #76 bit for the past few weekends.
 
It is also amazing to uncover the various nuances that go into these builds.  I've been drilling the many small holes for the Jotika eyelets that will be installed around the interior of the gun ports.  
 
Most references indicate the breeching terminating on a ring bolt positioned near the trucks in line with the bottom of the gun port.  The outhaul tackle, however, is often shown leading at an angle to an eyelet positioned about midway between the two guns.  It would seem to me to be more efficient if this tackle ran more parallel to the gun barrel - no waste in lateral effort when hauling on the tackle.  That would seem to be the arrangement on most of the contemporary ship models... An eyebolt for the outhaul tackle positioned about midway up on the gun port and near the opening.  The ring bolt for the breeching rope positioned directly below in line with the bottom of the port.
 
We can also see this type of set up on the remarkable War of 1812 wrecks of the Hamilton and Scourge that lie preserved at the bottom of Lake Ontario. Both were swamped by a sudden squall and lost at the same time.  (Actually the wrecks were once remarkably well preserved but have now become encrusted with an invasive species of mussel):
 

The boarding cutlasses are very cool.
 
Here is the approach I took:

 
None of these eyelets are glued in... Just a sample of positioning.  I'll blacken them and glue the upper eyelets, but I'll attach the lower ring bolts to the breeching rope when I rig the cannon off the ship before attaching these to the bulwarks.
 
Evan

Fantastic.  Looks like she fits right in with the rest of your beautiful home.
 
Very well done.
 
Evan

This will be the last posting for the build log. I was able to get the ship installed into the display case. The Connie is now in her berth. I cut the pedestal out of the spar material. I chose to leave the back side rough. It still shows the wear as well as paint from when it was part of a spar on the mighty ship.
 

 
I spent quite a bit of time researching LED lighting. The top of the case was only ⅞" thick and most of it is glass. I wanted LED lighting that would accurately produce the colors of the ship and be bright enough to allow everything to be seen well. The high CRI led's from Flexfire worked perfectly. They also do not produce much heat which is important in the contained environment of the display.
 
I had a number of goals when designing the case. I wanted black walnut to match that in the ship. I wanted to minimize the size of the surrounding frame to maximize the view of the ship. I wanted a glass top, and wanted the case lit. 
 
By utilizing ¼" tempered glass, I was able to use the strength of the glass to augment the rigidity of the frame. The glass is glued in with a GE Silicone household glue. This provides the holding power required and the give needed to allow for any seasonal movement. I also used low iron glass which is the most optically pure on the market.
 
The display case bottom contains a hidden compartment that is large enough to hold the full set of original plans, printouts of the CAD drawings I used for the ship's boats, and a full bound copy of the build log. 
 
It has been a fun and rewarding build. Now on to my next ship, a scratch build POF of the Brig Eagle. Thank you all for all of the encouragement, technical and mental support during this build.
 

Fantastic.  Looks like she fits right in with the rest of your beautiful home.
 
Very well done.
 
Evan

So... A couple of comedians!    Don't people remember that she was called "Old Ironsides"???!! - She never absorbed any damage!  Everything bounced off!!!  Well, at least it all bounced off for my model.
 
 
Here is the latest...
 
It is amazing how many holes need to be drilled into a sailing ship model!  I've been busy with the mini spiral drill and #76 bit for the past few weekends.
 
It is also amazing to uncover the various nuances that go into these builds.  I've been drilling the many small holes for the Jotika eyelets that will be installed around the interior of the gun ports.  
 
Most references indicate the breeching terminating on a ring bolt positioned near the trucks in line with the bottom of the gun port.  The outhaul tackle, however, is often shown leading at an angle to an eyelet positioned about midway between the two guns.  It would seem to me to be more efficient if this tackle ran more parallel to the gun barrel - no waste in lateral effort when hauling on the tackle.  That would seem to be the arrangement on most of the contemporary ship models... An eyebolt for the outhaul tackle positioned about midway up on the gun port and near the opening.  The ring bolt for the breeching rope positioned directly below in line with the bottom of the port.
 
We can also see this type of set up on the remarkable War of 1812 wrecks of the Hamilton and Scourge that lie preserved at the bottom of Lake Ontario. Both were swamped by a sudden squall and lost at the same time.  (Actually the wrecks were once remarkably well preserved but have now become encrusted with an invasive species of mussel):
 

The boarding cutlasses are very cool.
 
Here is the approach I took:

 
None of these eyelets are glued in... Just a sample of positioning.  I'll blacken them and glue the upper eyelets, but I'll attach the lower ring bolts to the breeching rope when I rig the cannon off the ship before attaching these to the bulwarks.
 
Evan

So... A couple of comedians!    Don't people remember that she was called "Old Ironsides"???!! - She never absorbed any damage!  Everything bounced off!!!  Well, at least it all bounced off for my model.
 
 
Here is the latest...
 
It is amazing how many holes need to be drilled into a sailing ship model!  I've been busy with the mini spiral drill and #76 bit for the past few weekends.
 
It is also amazing to uncover the various nuances that go into these builds.  I've been drilling the many small holes for the Jotika eyelets that will be installed around the interior of the gun ports.  
 
Most references indicate the breeching terminating on a ring bolt positioned near the trucks in line with the bottom of the gun port.  The outhaul tackle, however, is often shown leading at an angle to an eyelet positioned about midway between the two guns.  It would seem to me to be more efficient if this tackle ran more parallel to the gun barrel - no waste in lateral effort when hauling on the tackle.  That would seem to be the arrangement on most of the contemporary ship models... An eyebolt for the outhaul tackle positioned about midway up on the gun port and near the opening.  The ring bolt for the breeching rope positioned directly below in line with the bottom of the port.
 
We can also see this type of set up on the remarkable War of 1812 wrecks of the Hamilton and Scourge that lie preserved at the bottom of Lake Ontario. Both were swamped by a sudden squall and lost at the same time.  (Actually the wrecks were once remarkably well preserved but have now become encrusted with an invasive species of mussel):
 

The boarding cutlasses are very cool.
 
Here is the approach I took:

 
None of these eyelets are glued in... Just a sample of positioning.  I'll blacken them and glue the upper eyelets, but I'll attach the lower ring bolts to the breeching rope when I rig the cannon off the ship before attaching these to the bulwarks.
 
Evan

Folks
 
Today marks the 200th anniversary of Constitution's last great victory - defeating both Cyane AND Levant in a nighttime action.
 
I'm busy drilling holes and should have something to show in a few days.
 
Stay tuned!
 
Evan

Still plenty to do on the spar deck, but I'm going to divert some attention to the stern just to mix things up a bit - variety is the spice of life and all that...
 
The Revell stern is a refined representation of the Hull model stern:


 
The main guidance for my build is the series of paintings by Corne... Here is a close up shot showing good detail of the stern in the second painting:

 
My first task, unfortunately, is to remove the CONSTITUTION name on the upper counter.  The Hull model, the Corne series of paintings, the George Ropes jr. paintings, and the Thomas Birch painting all agree that it wasn't there...
 
 A scraping blade on the hobby knife along with some fine grit sandpaper does the trick in short order (Don't watch if you're squeamish!)

 
Once eliminated, I came back and scribed some planking on the counter with a flexible straight edge and my trusty scribe tool:

 
Next I determined to add some stern ports to the lower counter.  The Hull model does not show these fitted, but the Chappelle drawing of the President does.  I also think there is a faint representation of them on the Corne stern.  The Ropes paintings clearly show them (with cannon poking out no less (yikes!) as well. The Marquardt AOTS shows them in all of the different  iterations of the stern that are outlined in his historical overview.  I just have a feeling that an American heavy frigate would have these in place... they are primarily for ventilation, but could also serve as loading access for small lighters alongside.  More likely that the midshipmen berthed in the area would pitch trash out the back and watch it float away...
 
I marked the suitable locations and drilled a small pilot hole to help align the larger drill bit:


 
Next I used my trusty flat file to clean up the edges for the final outline:

 
 
The stern gallery windows are next up.  I want to show more panes to align better with the Corne version of the stern.
 
The Hull model has the very simple 2x2 panes that are on our kit. The Corne paintings show more complex 2x3 window panes.  The President drawings suggest 4x3.  The Bluejacket wooden kit includes the PE stern shown in my earlier thread.  This has the 2x3 pattern which only lends itself to an upright rectangular shaped opening.  The Revell kit has perfectly square openings and I didn't fancy the idea of modifying those.  So I needed a square pattern - basically 3x3.
 
There are some model railroader windows available in suitable scale that could work in a pinch (with slight modifications/trimming), but I found a PE solution that worked great:

It turns out that this PE mesh by K&S Metals is just the ticket.  A 3x3 pattern snipped free of the grid fits EXACTLY into the openings defined by the Revell stern windows.  I cut out the appropriate blocks of "panes", smoothed the edges with my small metal file, and slipped them neatly into the openings.

 
BTW - If you'd like to pursue this solution yourself, I'd suggest you run - not walk - to your nearest Model RR hobby shop to grab the last of the K&S PE mesh in their inventory - rumor has it these have been discontinued.
 
Here is the first window test fitted in place:

 
Since that worked so well, I went ahead and completed the whole row:

 

 
I'm well pleased with the result so far...
 
Thanks for following a long dissertation!

Now it is on to the deck details - starting with the capstans.  The one provided in the kit sucks and begs for replacement. I also need to provide one for the gun deck.
 
But how to do the drumheads - especially when using styrene?  I pondered and pondered and finally came up with an approach that worked reasonably well.  The key was to visit the local hardware store to acquire some metal washers of appropriate size - 1/8" (#6) did the trick.  The washers will serve as the outline of the circles as we spin everything around on the drill press and use a file to shape the drumhead.
 
Here are the raw materials:

 
After outlining the circles on some sheet styrene (using the washers as a template), I punched the centers and rough cut the shapes.  Those were then mounted on a bolt sized to the washer opening with two washers sandwiching each side of the styrene.  Everything was then clamped tight with the nut:


 
I mounted the set up in the drill press, gave it a whirl, and filed the blanks even with the edges of the washer templates:

 
After removing the styrene from the bolt - viola!  


 
Next I snipped some small styrene stock (.040 x .080 Evergreen 144) and glued them around the perimeter leaving spaces in between to represent the bar openings:

 
After sandwiching those between two of the styrene "washers" I nipped off any protruding material, mounted the rough drumhead back in my bolt assembly and gave it another spin with some light filing to clean the final shape.

 
The whelps were easily managed - just stuck some short pieces of .080 x .080 (Evergreen 164) styrene to some tape and used a round file to carve out the centers:

 
Everything was glued to a small length of styrene rod (6.4mm - Plastruct 90864) and a few small details were added to complete the effect. Coincidentally, the rod fit exactly into the center openings defined by the washers.
 
Here is the gun deck capstan:

 
I wanted the spar deck capstan to look more like the one on the Hull model in the PEM - more mushroom shaped and svelte in comparison to the stockier gun deck capstan:


 
Thanks for enduring the process explanation!

Jay
 
It is likely that on the Constitution only the foremast had lower stuns'l sails. The Hull model and Brady both suggest no main stuns'l boom. The mizzen crojack yard does not carry a sail so no boom there either. Olof Eriksen suggests in his book that a lower main stuns'l would block the wind of any lower fore stunsl and is therefore omitted. Marquart agrees that both would not be deployed, but argues for only a main lower stunsl and no fore. The contemporary models, literature, and old photos would suggest otherwise.
 
There is a lengthier discussion of this somewhere in my build log.
 
Evan

Kilo
 
Your kind note is very appreciated.  I sincerely hope that others don't mind following along as I make deviations to explain my attempts to give some historical foundation for my interpretation of Old Ironsides.  I really am trying to feel my way through the various sources to settle on a version of "truth" that at least feels right to me!  I'll be back at it this weekend and hope to have more to post soon.
 
Andreas - thank you for the added insight for finding online resources - I've bookmarked all of your provided links!
 
Foxy - I've been following along with your Victory... Beautiful work!!!
 
Henry - I hope you've been hard at work on Soleil since you're mostly buried under many feet of snow.  (Pats Rule!)
 
Thanks all
Evan

Kilo
 
Your kind note is very appreciated.  I sincerely hope that others don't mind following along as I make deviations to explain my attempts to give some historical foundation for my interpretation of Old Ironsides.  I really am trying to feel my way through the various sources to settle on a version of "truth" that at least feels right to me!  I'll be back at it this weekend and hope to have more to post soon.
 
Andreas - thank you for the added insight for finding online resources - I've bookmarked all of your provided links!
 
Foxy - I've been following along with your Victory... Beautiful work!!!
 
Henry - I hope you've been hard at work on Soleil since you're mostly buried under many feet of snow.  (Pats Rule!)
 
Thanks all
Evan

Folks - thanks for all the LIKES!
 
Brian - Thanks for looking in. I think (as you probably suspect) that the netting over the gun port openings is a safety measure and not authentic.  It may be, however, that netting was placed over openings like transom/stern gun ports that didn't generally have a gun in position...
 
Tim - I think the Ropes paintings of the Java battle are on loan from a museum or historical society in New Bedford.  They are jewels of detail...
 
Stuart - thank you also for looking in... Glad to see you starting your own build!  Tyrone Martin in his "Creating a Legend" book indicates that the interlocking planks were added on the gun deck in two "thick strakes" running the length of the deck.  The modern restored ship shows similar interlocking planks on the outer edge near the waterway on the spar deck:
 

 
I'm not sure that is authentic to the 1812 period.
 
You can sorta see my feeble attempt to replicate the interlocking gun deck strakes in this view:

 
 
The yellow gun stripe is controversial among purists... The Constitution's log clearly shows the stripe being painted white (and the bulwarks green) immediately before the outbreak of war.  The Hull model in Salem also shows a white stripe.  Accounts and log entries do verify that Captain Stewart changed the stripe to yellow on his late war cruise.  I've used the Corne paintings for guidance in the belief that some captains (including Stewart and Bainbridge) likely changed the color for deception once the shooting started.  Regardless of counter opinions, I'm falling back on the Corne paintings and I'm sticking to  it!
 
Thanks again for the interest and I'm looking forward to following these new builds!
 
Evan

Ahoy...
 
Sorry folks for the very long gap between updates... Had to call a timeout for the holidays and some business travel.
 
I've been fiddling with guns a bit in the background, but I also managed to lay down some black on the hull.  I had several flavors of Vallejo Black in my collection: Grimy Black (too greenish), Engine Black (too much sheen), and regular "Black".  I went with the latter - it lays down very flat and has a nice neutral tone.
 
Still much to tune up and I have kept some of the masking in place until I paint the red linings of the spar deck ports, but here are some quick views:
 

 

 

 

 
 
The final appearance of the yellow stripe took some thought and compromise... The Corne paintings show the stripe in line with the edges of the gun ports and finishing with a scalloped end after the most forward gun port:
 

 
This is the path to choose if you're paying strict adherence to the Corne paintings.  I have to admit, however, that I do like the wider stripe shown in the Thomas Birch painting of the Guerriere fight:
 

 
This gives the ship a more robust look and sets off the gun ports nicely.  I do think, however, that it would be too big a leap from the Corne paintings.  The 1803 painting done by Corne for Commodore Preble provides a very nice compromise:
 

 
This shows the stripe in line with the upper edge of the gun ports and extending just a bit below the bottom edge.  This version also includes the scalloped front end.  (of course, this has led some people to think that Corne copied this older version when making the 1812 series for Isaac Hull... I don't think so.  Too many other differences and it seems likely that Corne had access to the ship during her late 1812 refit to make newer sketches and notes). Exercising a bit more artistic license, I've elected to use this for my model.
 
Here is how I approached the scalloped front of the stripe:
 
I rummaged around in my collection of spare washers and found one small enough for the purpose.  After laying down two strips of Tamiya tape, I traced the outline of the washer with a hobby knife.  I then transferred the tape to the model and masked off the rest of the stripe before laying down the black paint.
 

 

 
Thanks again to everyone who follows along (and shows great patience between my updates!)
 
Evan

Bill -
 
VERY nice work on your Connie!  A really special effort.
 
It looks like you've got enough wood there to build a case, a table for the case, and chair to sit in to admire the result!
 
Your mention of Sam Maloof triggers memories... I used to live practically next door to Mr. Maloof decades ago and would see his clients pull up in their convertible Jaguars and push and pull in consternation as they tried to tie down one of his incredible rockers in the rear seat.  Sam's house was a treasure in itself and had to be relocated when the state finally decided to build out the freeway that bisected the city.  I think he salvaged as much as he could and rebuilt his house and shop nearer to the foothills.
 
A pleasure to have followed your build.
 
Evan

Bill -
 
VERY nice work on your Connie!  A really special effort.
 
It looks like you've got enough wood there to build a case, a table for the case, and chair to sit in to admire the result!
 
Your mention of Sam Maloof triggers memories... I used to live practically next door to Mr. Maloof decades ago and would see his clients pull up in their convertible Jaguars and push and pull in consternation as they tried to tie down one of his incredible rockers in the rear seat.  Sam's house was a treasure in itself and had to be relocated when the state finally decided to build out the freeway that bisected the city.  I think he salvaged as much as he could and rebuilt his house and shop nearer to the foothills.
 
A pleasure to have followed your build.
 
Evan