michael101

Thank you dear friend ! thank you and welcome to my build log also thanks friends for all the likes 🙏

Thank you Robert 🙏 its always Pleasure to talk with you ! What a clever person ! Glad to have you as my best friend ! Michael.

Thank you David 🙏 totally agree with you ! Not going to do anything with the decoration right now i just had to make the base for the decoration on this stage for not getting problems in the future

Hello friends on the last few months I was working on the gallery so here is an update maybe it will look a small thing but it took me a lot (more than a lot 😀) to finish this aria I will show step by step to help other builders who going to reach this step.... but first of all I have to say a big thanks to Robert (has the nickname Berto in this forum) Who helped me understand all the future issues that could be with the gallery if I followed the instructions I will talk about them later ... but after understand the problems I had to think a lot to solve problem by problem... So lets get started first of all I had to make the deck before putting the windows and painting black the background (in the instructions it not tell you nothing about to install any deck behind the windows and bento told me that must make this deck and do it before installing the windows ...) About the glazing There is a real problem to glue the plastic film on the wood for a several reasons Any kind of glue in the future will get off because of the nature of the wood due to the temperature of the season... The only good glue for this method will be epoxy but its not ideal .. you can dirt the film easily... So after a lot of thinking i decide to use this method : First i made the templet of the film with a slots up and down between the windows And then i have used a timber of 1.5 mm by making a slot in the middle that will fit the exact thickens of the film Then i glue it in place in the back of the windows templet here is the steps and the result : I have to say that the skins (patterns ) are not matching each other at all !!!! you have to be careful to make the exact shape for making smooth match !!!! here is a picture of the process (don't worry about the hols I will cover them at the end ) now the big or maybe the huge problem!!! that I had to - and have to say again thanks to Robert for warned me about this issue ! there is a 2 patterns of the back gallery the one that already installed no. 374 and the back pattern (no. 375 )who will install on the pattern no.374 so the problem is that the second pattern not seat exact on the first one. you can see it clearly in this picture: (I merged both patterns in photoshop , the hard lines are the first pattern no.374 and the light lines are the second pattern no.375) The big problem is that in the low line of the second pattern you will have to install a profile for all over the line and at the sides you have to install a profile how need to mach the corners of the back profile ! so if you will leave the last skin as is it will mach the corners of the first pattern and they are over (above) the corners of the second pattern!!!! then the side profiles will never get mach with the back profile because they are above the back ! here is a picture of the profile (look at the blue arrow ) so After a long time of thoughts I got a solution ... by the way I saw that problem in the others build logs but the builders came to the problem after they try to install the second pattern ... my solution was to add a wood to the last skin to get the exact cornet of the second back pattern no. 375 so I have install the second pattern temporary for taking the Lins of the corners .. then I made the extension of the last side windows pattern BTH the space in one side of the skin its bigger than the other side so I had to cut the wood in angel .. here is a picture in the middle of the process: for the builders who going to work on this stage it recommended to make a block filler under the last skin because after you making the extension for the last side windows pattern you will lose the "bulkhead " the one before the last one !! also I had to make one side of the last bulked thick than the other side in 1.5 mm for giving more Uniform space along the last skin so I made this wood extension: and here is the pictures of the final galley project (still need to term a bit the rest of wood of the last skin who going a bit down the line of the last bulkhead but I will do it when I will put the ship upside down on the stand ...) and in the back : hop this post will help other builders who came across this stage Best regards Michael.

You must make a clamps up and down for all over the keel , glue the bulkheads then put the clamps on make it straight .. then use the method of mtaylor ! dont push any bulkhead just make the supports to be exact size between the bulkheads then glue the supports from out side ... make sure not to press the bulkheads with the supports !

Hi where exactly you have the warped ? there is a solution for everything ! but need to know before is it in the middle ? bow ? stern? take a picture ..

I will check it , Thank you

The second plank its dark walnut do you think the pencil can do the job ?

I think you not need any bulkheads or fillers ... if the ship its a big scale just add supports from one bulkhead to the next , you can see what i have done in my Hms Victory but when you putting the wood supports you must be sure that the keel its straight and the supports are exact without pressing the bulkheads ... Best regards Michael.

Hello there , im almost there.... almost going to work on the second planks of the Hms Victory.. i saw a lot of beautiful and symmetrical caulking for the hull planks in google for model ships .. but i didnt found the methods for them .. i will be more than happy if you will share with me your experience about how to caulk the planks (without The paper methods ..) Best regards , Michael.

Thank you all !!!!

Hello there, A few yers ago i bought some blades of 0.5 mm to my Proxxon table saw for germany they are the best blades i ever see ... the point is, the hole of this blades its 10mm and i cant use them for my byrnes tables saw... but i saw that this site selling also blades of 13mm Hole my question is if i can buy them for my byrnes t.s, the byrnes t.s use blades with 1/2 in (12.7mm) so the big question is if 0.3mm will make a problem..: Best regards, Michael. btw here is the link for the german site: https://knupfer.info/shop/index.php/deutsch/catalogsearch/result/?q=Sägen

Thank you all ! i have change the blade and everything working amazing !!!!!!!!! now i can say its the best tool i have in my workshop !!!

I didnt understand can you explane more about that ?

Hello Thisthe I dine talk about the blade slot , I took a reference from the channels of the sides I mean there is a channel on the aluminum board and I put the fence exactly flush with the slot of this channel I locked down the front lock then the back but still you can see in the back that the fence is not a straight line withe the back channel … And about the miter of the 90 degrees I’m talking about the slots of the 90 it’s not exact 90 degrees you must do it by the manual screw and can’t trust the pin … i have check the piece that with angle miter it says 91 degrees … ————- Thank you Y.T I saw this video fue days ago

Hello there i bought this saw last year and not had the chance to use the saw until now, now after using the machine I notice that the fence it’s not a straight locking (if you putting the fence against the Channel in one side the. Fence will be flush with the Channel and in the other side it’s a bit out of the line )and also when cutting 90 degrees its not accurate to cut it exact 90 degrees ,it’s about 1degree out of the line (I have check it with caliber ) have you had the same problem? i hope I’m doing something wrong , if not I’m really Disappoint ————————— im editing now my post and after changing the blade all works perfect !!!!! its the best tool in my workshop!!! i dont want to delete the post because maybe all the info below it can help other people🙂

Thank you all

The only problem with the x-acto its the teeth are very big and im not sure if they will cut a clean line on walnut planks of 1mm can someone check it out for me? i mean to try cutting a 1mm walnut plank from the side Bets regards Michael.

Hello there , is someone has experience with this micro saw? need it for cutting planks in the gun ports https://accurate-armour.com/model-supplies/modelmaking-tools/mt011 best regards, Michael.

just build it up to pay 26 USD for piece of plywood and few screws... i think its a lot !!!! Michael.

Thank you Moxis interesting idea but maybe I will leave it in the same color and use the same method that you wrote before

Thank you Mtaylor, yes i have read the tutorials but all of them taking about the first plank , and no one talk about the issue below —————————— Thank you Moxis , that what though at the first , but a friend told me if i choose this method all the line will have the same color and the segments will no be show , but maybe i will pick this method if i will not find other solution

Hello friends, i have finish the first plank of my H.M.S VICTORY and soon i will start the second plank ( walnut wood ) the thing is, i want to make it as the real ship i mean to make the plank from segments of 127 mm the real ship used 30 ft. of plank for the ship (9.144 miter) so if my model is 1/72 it will give us exact 12.7 cm i will be more than happy to receive some advices for this method i think the big problem will be to make the connecting edges between the segments to be in exact same wide for not having small spaces when installing the next line of the planks but maybe its not even a problem (i never did it before so i dont know ) also what method you used for holding the second plank in place any why ... any advices are welcome !!!!! here is some pictures of my first plank i was explaining my method in my building , if you interesting you can visit the link below : Best regards, Michael.

Hello Mort , sorry for the delay (i just saw your question) i did trim the part 373 but not flush with 270 line ! if it will be flush the space between the side gallery supports (the last one and the one before the last one ) you can see the problem in pic A So the way to do it its to trim it diagonal i mean to leave the corner of the last side gallery flush with the corner of the 373 part, and to make the slot near the blue Arrow deeper to make the last side gallery support to be flush with back panel (pic B ) Best regards, Michael.

Thank you Bob !