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Jim in KC

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  1. Sequence of build so far: 1. Cut thin balsa strips and glued them in slots on frames or on the false keel where needed, then filed them so frames (bulkheads) fit tightly and evenly on the false keel. 2. Glued blocks on false keel against frame #2 and #5 per instructions. Looking ahead, these will anchor the masts. 3. Carved bow and stern blocks to provide a platform for planking. Glued them in place. 4. Glued hold floors in place. 5. I had worried that the deck would not bend over the curved tops o
  2. Welcome Genocon. I love your B-17. I'm a 70 year old newbie but built a B-17 as a teenager, but it wasn't as nice as yours.
  3. Actually I was worried about that - it warping in an unplanned way and ending up looking like it had been soaked. I'll try flexing it. I'm also thinking about cutting out a new false keel with a fresher more flexible 1/16th inch basswood board. Thanks for your input. I'll update after I try flexing, and also I have a build log going.
  4. Thanks for your input, ASAT. The reason I'm concerned is a previous builds of the same model reported difficulty getting the false deck to bend to the rather severe curvature of the upper frames. See for example: Swift by PopJack - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Virginia Pilot Boat 1805 Older version By PopJack, April 15, 2013 in Build Logs for SHIP MODEL KITS One previous build reported the deck split. I have had this model probably 10 -15 years and haven't had time to work on it until now (I recently retired). So the deck is dry and not very flexible though it is
  5. I did indeed cut a new keel. Next question, what's the best way to attach a flat deck to frames that are curved on top? I've read other build logs for the same model and others have had this question. I'm thinking of soaking the deck, then pinning it, then gluing it. Any advice would be appreciated.
  6. Thanks for the input. I made a building jig using l clamps, as suggested. It holds the false keel firmly. I cut out the bulkheads and fitted them on the false keel, but haven't glued them as yet. I glued balsa shims in the keel notch on few and then filed them to make the fit tighter. I also cut out the false deck. As to cutting things out, when I built wood aircraft models years ago everything was balsa. Then I used Xacto knives to cut pieces out and I assumed I would do the same now. However, I don't know what kind of wood these sheets are but they're much tougher to cut
  7. The Swift is my first wooden boat build, so I’m a newbie. I appreciate any suggestions, advice or input from you more experienced builders. I used to build plastic and wood aircraft models as a kid, but that was more than 50 years ago. Now that I’m retired, I have really been looking forward to building models again, particularly ship models. I’m hoping I can maintain my enthusiasm through the trials and tribulations ahead. When I first opened the box I noticed that the false keel was warped. I know for my reading (the kit directions, “Ship Modeling Simplified,” by
  8. Hi Russ - when do you attach the actual keel to the false keel. I have the same kit and I'm just starting to build. I've been over the instructions multiple times I don't see it anywhere. It looks like you haven't done that yet which, I guess, is why you used angled metal strips for your build board. The false keel is nor deep and the frames slide down too far to use parallel wood or strips to support the keel. Anyway I would appreciate your input. Jim in KC
  9. Thanks to all who responded. To mtaylor, cutting a new keel seems like a good idea if I can find plywood that thin - see pictures. I like the idea as well of using spacers attached to the keel between bulkheads. I get what michael101 is saying = the spacers should not push on the bulkheads but just straighten the keel. To michael101, the warp is in the middle - see pictures. I will start a build log.
  10. I'm just getting ready to start on a kit-build of a Virginia pilot boat, a sloop. I noticed that the keel piece is a little warped. It's a thin plywood precut piece. I tried steaming it for about 15 minutes, then clamping it flat against a 2x4. That didn't work. I'm afraid of soaking it in hot water - might that make the plywood separate? I would appreciate any suggestions from you pros out there. Thanks.
  11. Hi, I'm Jim from Kansas City. I am just starting a model, the Virginia pilot boat, Swift. I'm paying heed to the warnings for newbies - the kit from Artesania Latina includes just one deck and the rigging doesn't look too complicated. The manufacturer is not on the forbidden list - I certainly agree with that policy. I used to build plastic and balsa models growing up, and now that I'm retired, I want to try ships. I'm also new to forums of any kind. I tried to post earlier but I don't see a response so I assume I messed it up somehow. By the way, I'm a former tin can sailor, so
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