Rudolf

Working this week, the foremast is finished. Mainmast next......

Scratch building the dead-eye strops with 3.5mm and 5mm walnut dead-eyes. Parts and tools associated for building them. Wire is 7cm in length with the 3 hole strop cut down to two hole. 20 made and need 56 total which will take a couple of more days. Then proper location angle placement along with drilling. I'll work on the hammocks placement after I get these installed.
 

Hi,
I built 99% of the hull and its details. All parts with a thickness of +1 mm were cut from cardboard and glued on three sides with stripes of appropriate width. For sure the construction would have been faster if I just painted these parts.


Best
Tomek

Hello
Some time ago I started building Sao Gabriel based on the model in the museum in Lisbon. I do not have exact plans, but based on photos, dimensions and proportions of this type of vessels I managed to design a ship quite similar to the original. The progress in the construction is enough to show the first photos.
The hull frames were made of 1 mm thick cardboard.



I have planned three layers of planking: the first vertical layer, which stabilizes the frames, the second longitudinal one on the cardboard 0.5 mm and the third one in color as the final planks. After gluing the first layer, I added some of the decks and evened the entire hull with sandpaper to remove adhesive residues and greater inaccuracies.




On these parts you can see lines according to which I will glue the next layer.
Before sticking the next decks, I had to make a few details, which would later be very difficult to access.

Then I glued the second layer, so far only to the level of the main deck and then I built a part of the forecastle.


The construction of forecastle...

Then, step by step, I added the next strips of the second layer and the next level in the forecastle.

Because the model has a lot of windows in the stern part, I created some rooms there. Unfortunately, there are not many sources describing rooms in sailing ships from this period, so this is only my imagination.

Now I could "lock" the whole with the upper decks.


Before gluing the last layer, the whole hull was covered with wood glue, which made it stiffer. I smoothed the whole with sandpaper and started gluing the last layer. Each strip is two boards with a dividing line marked with a blunt needle.


Visible white gaps will be covered with wales, so it will look OK.

Best
Tomek
 

Rounding up a few more finishing details...like rope coils and paint touch up and adding the lower topsails reef points....then its time to move onto the main course.
This is the largest sail ever bent on any clipper's main yard....no wonder her original crew number was well over 110 able seamen and 30 boys.
With the size of these sails...you needed lots of hands.
 
Pretty soon there will be three masts on her.......
 
Rob

I’m sure it’s  smaller then scale, it’s strong though. The larger wire looked to bulky to me

Spent some time on the Great Republic..tidied up and added some rope coils and set in the other masts to get some perspective.
 
Rob

Then I finished up the main course by adding the buntlines.....I glued it on the yard.
 
Rob

While the sail was drying...I opted to take another approach to adding the main stay.  Instead of rigging them in place I decided to rig them off ship, one side at a time.  Then once done I would rig them to the ship and secure them separately...but the connection will look as if it was one connection.
 
I beefed up the bulls-eye iron strop/hook.  Just to let all my concerned citizen MSW folks rest comfortably. 

And a few more images of the main course and the starboard mainstay.
 
Rob 

Ahh yes, much better muttered the OCD crowd 🤪😎

Well am getting a start finally on actual rigging...fore mast shrouds and the method used to line them up

Some progress, flattened fitted chainplates and lower deadeyes, thinking about how to get the shroud deadeyes properly lined up next..

This is a continuation of the build started some time ago, but continuing forward, hull plans were scaled from Chapelle's Search for Speed Under Sail, older images of progress I may be able to find, but went on to use copper tape for hull plates, now working on deck furnishings and hopefully chainplates and plans for masting before too long (wishful thinking?)

I start a new model for my collection. It is a "Lougre harenguier" by Fécamp, based on the plans in the collection "Souvenirs de Marine Conservés" by Admiral Paris and the monograph of the "Bois-Rosé" of the Association of Friends of the Navy Museum from Paris. The system that I follow for the construction of the hull is that of disposable frames. This system of disposable frames I already showed it in my previous Build  Log of the Tartana de Liguria.
I believe that the photographs clearly show what the process that I carry out. I started this model about ten days ago, and the last pictures show the current status of the work in progress.

Thank you Jason , and others for likes. Very appreciate it .
Regarding planking. Each plank is made individually to achieve difference in tone and grain direction. Due to this I prepared short sheets of  castello boxwood instead of one single long piece. It is time consuming work but I think it is worth it.

Progress on planking...

I have started to work on rudder.
Hinges are made from 0.3mm brass sheet, 0.9/0.7mm Albion Alloys tube and 0.6mm wire.

Work continues on stern decoration. CNC machining could be very frustrating.
I have great difficulties with machining, due to unexpected movement of tool into the part (-Z axis). Full inspection of machine was needed incl. mechanical and electrical parts. Also programming was changed and I finally (after two weeks of work and several destroyed parts/ tools) managed to get undamaged part. 
Windows were also made from 0,3mm transparent plastic sheet.

Started my first steps with CNC machine. Still a lot to learn, especially 3D modeling, but like the challenge. 
After a few basic projects I started with most difficult part of stern decoration. This is no. 3 in row- still not
best and need some improvements regarding 3D shape and machining parameters... Learning...learning...

And here are other photos in real daylight colours:

 
Best regards
 

Dziadeczek:  Thank you very much for your praise, I am pleased you like my work.
 
Now the pedestals are finished and placed under the huge hull of the Royal Katherine. Enjoy the pics and have a great time.
 

 
 
 

Having completed the forward sections I moved to the aft end. The lower aft end of the keel is perhaps the most poorly defined area not only because of the loss of line definition in scaling up the original but also because of closeness of the lines on the plan view.
 
This post covers the definition of frame lines negative 7 through to 11 (nineteen in total).

Producing the frame lines required a degree of interpolation to get something that looked sensible within the frame and between adjacent frames. I enclose the PDF of the result for anyone interested.
 
Frames4.pdf
 


I found that drawing the keel bulb on frames forward of those being defined was helpful in getting my mind around the keel shape. The bulb lines in question are marked 15, 14 & 13 on the drawing. They can be ignored when I get on to cutting out frames as they will be covered  on the fully defined frames later.
 
Again I have defined the datum line, the building board alignment slot, the water line, deck edge line and rail line. Additionally I have noted the levels of the cabin floor as it rises in steps towards the bow.
 
To complete the lines I now need now to define the frames 11, 12, 13 & 14.
 
 
 

Thank you Mark, I'll try to live up to your expectations and standards.

I completed the final sections. I plotted them on a separate sheet to avoid the conflict confusion. As previously i have attached the PDF.
Schooner 2.pdf

The next step was to make the templates for cutting out the frames. Fortunately in these days of scanners and printers things are much easier. The scanner decided to scan the image at 94% so when I went to the print programme I adjusted this back 100% and checked the scale lines to confirm the accuracy of the print, all was well. I also needed the mirror image print as a half hull model wasn't my plan. After a bit of searching I fount the flip horizontally button and hey presto I had the other half.
Then followed a large print run 46 of each - port and starboard. it took a while not least because of the hunt fort the replacement black cartridge.
 
The halves were joined with a glue stick and then each frame was coloured up to identify it for cutting out.
 

I did a lot of colouring in - just like being at school.

Some time ago I had found some small scale plans on the internet. As plans go they lack a bit of detail however with the aid of many photographs I think they will be adequate.
 

I need to do a bit of scaling up and printing to get the plans to a workable scale. My initial test on scaling up showed that the definition was reasonable.