Elijah

It's been way too long since some meaningful progress. But tonite there is some to pass on. Before that, I was asked about the frapping (love it or hate it) so I will show a few pix on how that was done. So much of this was figured out on that mock up gun port. Quite the extreme in one sense but helpful in others.
 
Regarding gun tackles the plans call for 1/8" blocks and .016 line.  Sadly, 0.16 is not to be had - a shame since that would have made this process a lot simpler. So I start out with a 1/8 double and a 1/8 single block, reaved with .012 (yes that's right) line. 3 mm PE hooks are stropped to the blocks. I'm going to figure everyone can get to that point. One note - even though the hooks are stropped I ended up putting a spot of CA at the base to keep the hook from flopping around while trying to hook them to rings.
 

 
I struggled with the hooks, sometimes it was terribly difficult to get them hooked to the rings as the opening is not very wide. I ended up spreading the opening with some pointed tapered end tweezers by jamming the end into the opening. The further in it goes the wider the tweezers get and the more the hook spreads,
 

 
Next the loose tackle is hooked in place.
 

 
I need to get the tackle to the proper final size, so the line is pulled tight and then glued. Not to worry, none of this shows up after the frap.
 

 
Once the glue dries, the tackle is unhooked (not the easiest thing to do) and then placed on my serving machine.
 

 
The loose end is trimmed off.
 

 
Now comes the trick. The .012 line looked awful when wound between the tackles. It was just too thin and I couldn't really make out the windings. So the actual frap is done with .018 rope. It is done using the same concept as zip seizing - the frap and what is being frapped are 2 different pieces of rope. So a piece of .018 is tied with a half hitch to the DOUBLE BLOCK side of the tackle and hit with a spot of CA. Then you just start serving, stopping every 3-4 winds to adjust.
 

 
All finished.
 

 
Remove the tackle and trim the end near the double block.
 

 
Rehook the tackle to the gun. I would leave a bit of weight on the rope after that to stretch and shape the tackle. Glue the loose end of the rope to the deck. Of course the brass will need some paint. I've been using Tamiya Dark Iron rather than blackening. I suspect all the blackening would have come off during this process. I'm also hoping the paint will act like glue to help hold the hooks in place over time
 

 
Here's where I am at now.
 

 

 
My new light finally arrived. What a difference it makes having light coming in from both sides (not shown here). The shadows are virtually gone. The LED fixture stays amazingly cool even right next to my head.
 

 
Well, 18 more tackles to go - although I haven't given the long guns any attention yet. Maybe a few more for them.
 
G'night all....

Besides admiring in general your precise work on this model Frank I am particularly impressed with what a great job you did on the decking. It greatly enhances the realism and is in keeping with the overall quality of your work.. 
 
The question I had about the reason for chocks between the frame futtocks has been answered by an excerpt from J.R. Adams book on maritime archeology, https://books.google.no/books?id=VprwAwAAQBAJ&pg=PA183&lpg=PA183&dq=futtock+chocks&source=bl&ots=RmBHMh9mlf&sig=Je3oD-5ckK8d1eauyJmPKL-HAU0&hl=en&sa=X&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=futtock%20chocks&f=false
 
According to the book futtocks were made from naturally curved wood where the long grain was consistent throughout the work piece. Later, these curved pieces were increasingly difficult to obtain and straighter pieces had to be used instead with the consequence that there would be crossgrain towards the ends after cutting to shape. By cutting off the crossgrain  on the top ends of futtocks and inserting a chock, strength could be maintained. Further, it was specified that at least 1/3 of the futtock thickness on the bottom at the ends should be preserved. 

A person can always learn something new on MSW everyday of the week. That's why MSW is the best.

Hello again! I have been building the cap rail, but am unsure as to how to proceed. The wood is cherry and 1/32" thick. I need to carve and sand it closer to the bulwarks, but it is in a tight spot. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks!

Yes, it is glued in place. Thanks!
Edit: What are pencil sanders?

Hello again! I have been building the cap rail, but am unsure as to how to proceed. The wood is cherry and 1/32" thick. I need to carve and sand it closer to the bulwarks, but it is in a tight spot. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks!

Happy birthday Jerry! That deckhouse looks great! Well done.

Nice job Greg! Your ship looks great, however, I did notice in post 258, picture 3, that the port side waterway appears to be missing. I'm not sure if you noticed this, so I am just giving you a "head's up". I don't blame you for not seeing it, that thing is tiny !

Happy birthday Jerry! That deckhouse looks great! Well done.

Nice job Greg! Your ship looks great, however, I did notice in post 258, picture 3, that the port side waterway appears to be missing. I'm not sure if you noticed this, so I am just giving you a "head's up". I don't blame you for not seeing it, that thing is tiny !

Nice job Greg! Your ship looks great, however, I did notice in post 258, picture 3, that the port side waterway appears to be missing. I'm not sure if you noticed this, so I am just giving you a "head's up". I don't blame you for not seeing it, that thing is tiny !

Nice job Greg! Your ship looks great, however, I did notice in post 258, picture 3, that the port side waterway appears to be missing. I'm not sure if you noticed this, so I am just giving you a "head's up". I don't blame you for not seeing it, that thing is tiny !

Nice job Greg! Your ship looks great, however, I did notice in post 258, picture 3, that the port side waterway appears to be missing. I'm not sure if you noticed this, so I am just giving you a "head's up". I don't blame you for not seeing it, that thing is tiny !

and you can see  at your convenience how you jam the tool you are working with in your finger(s) or e.g. the palm of your hand

Great job on those blocks!
 
I too prefer working with hand tools vs power tools. It allows me to screw up a good piece of wood at a more controlled rate!

You didn't take long, Jesse. You took the time you needed for those fiddly blocks and hooks. Those are tiny!!! They look splendid to me ...

Good morning Lawrence..
Many thanks for your birthday wishes and for all the nice things you have said regarding the Bluenose build.  I am enjoying building this model and look forward to completing the deck "stuff" so I can get going on the mast structures, etc.  In the meantime here are a couple more photos of the cabin assembly temporarily placed on deck.  A few more aft pieces and then I will begin shaping the masts.  I hope you have a wonderful day and my best regards to your admiral.
Best,
Jerry

Hello..
A few more pictures of the cabin top stuff..
Best,
Jerry

Hello Everybody..
It's Labor Day weekend and here's some pictures of a little more progress.  Forming the cabin was tricky for two ,main reasons:  the strip wood is of very small dimensions and getting the correct angle which was accomplished by laying wax paper over the plans and gluing the pieces together while in position.  The roof is a bit small but I'll fix that with some extension later on.  So far, so good..Now some pics...
Jerry

Hello Mike,
Thanks for the visit.  
As a matter of fact there is something I need some help with.  Bob's practicum is really working out well but every once in awhile I either miss something or can't find it.  I'm having trouble locating the construction of the aft railing system.  I see it in the photographs but can't seem to see it in the instructions.  I'm specifically referring to the railing on the transom and around each side to where it angles down to the cap railing.  I have read ahead through the next several chapters  but all I could find was a little reference near the end of Chapter 8 which I just started.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Best,
Jerry

Good evening Lawrence.
I'm very sorry to learn about the bug your computer picked up' you'll have to stop watching porno because that's where most of the viruses come from.  JUST KIDDING!  But i'm happy to know that you were able to recapture most of your data.  Yeah, Bernie mentioned the stained glass project and that you were going to help her.  You're a good sailor for keeping the admiral happy.
So, I look forward to seeing your completion of the Bounty; it is one beautiful piece of work.
Take care,
Best,
Jerry

Hi Popeye..
Thanks for your remark about the pictures.  At the end of a work session I look forward to posting the latest pictures as sort of my curtain call for the day.  Good to hear from you again.
Best,
Jerry

I'll second Slog's vote of confidence in the Airbrush Megastore, Greg. Excellent service, great advice, good prices, and very quick turnaround. There's also a series of videos on their website.
 
Paul Budzik's videos on YouTube are also excellent and well worth taking a look at.

I use the cheaper ones for less important work, a.o. priming large surfaces. I prefer the Bulson/Harder & Steinbeck for more detailed work The H&S has two different needles and two cup sizes, which makes it more versatile (http://www.harder-airbrush.eu/en/infinity.html - the tow in one) but is rather pricey (simply put darn expensive) but I want to use it not just for modelling.
 
Compressors ... is a different piece of cake. Get a silent one, and one you can regulate the pressure easily. I've made the wrong buy, I can regulate the pressure, but it isn't easy.

Bugger, this is a whole new world. I reckon I've got about a month to go on this one, then a whole garden to weed and mulch plus my sideline of rowing coaching in summer. The next build will be a lot slower but bigger. I want to get this airbrush thingy sorted plus figuring out a compressor too.