David Lester

I'm working on the gun carriages, but as a diversion I did complete the rudder.  I really hate cutting the rabbets for the straps!.  I'll fit the rudder to the ship today, and continue to work on finishing up the carriages.

Hi Matt,
I believe the stem and stern pieces should be beveled, but not the keel. This is what I did on my model. Bevel them to about 1/8", leaving them full thickness (1/4") where they meet the keel. The bevel extends pretty much the full length of the stem piece and the leading edge of the stem piece is rounded over. The stern piece is beveled from the point near the top where it curves in slightly all the way to the bottom but the edges are left square. On both pieces just blend the bevel in where they meet the keel piece. Hope that's of some help.
David

Happy Wednesday Everyone,
I have a brief update for today. I have finished all of the bow work. As I had mentioned earlier I needed to adjust the middle rail on each side. I not sure if their profiles are exactly correct, but at least they now fit the model. With the stern and bow both finished, I'm now about to start the copper plating.
David

Hello Again,
Over the past couple of weeks, I have been working on the stern and bow details. As many of you know the practicum suggests using Evergreen styrene for much of the details. While it's quite effective, it really isn't very much fun to work with. It's difficult to do without getting CA glue all over the place and it doesn't set up as quickly as I would like. Also, the "memory" in the strips causes them to not want to stay in place around curves. I found it helped to wrap the trip around a cylinder for a day or se before using it. One minor change I made from the practicum was the size of the stripe on the rails. For some reason it's suggested to use .040 half round on the cheek rails and then switch to .010 x .020 for the headrails. Once I added the smaller stuff to the headrails, I noticed how much better it looked than the hearvier on the cheek rails, so I redid it, using the smaller scale. I'm not sure if it's more authentic to use the two different sizes or not, but I'm sure happier with the smaller size throughout.
 
The headrails are interesting to make. Most of them were not actually too difficult, but that middle rail is of the devil's own design. It's a series of compound curves and the practicum suggests making it ahead of attaching any of the rails to the model. The problem with this is that you're flying blind. The timbers connect the top curved rail with the top cheek rail. The middle rail goes between and I believe it is supposed to make contact with the timbers. My middle rail, which looked quite good off the model, didn't even come close to reaching the three middle timbers. It didn't seem to curve far enough toward the centre throughout it's horizontal run. I didn't have the heart to start over, as these rails were the result of several failed attempts, so my solution was to modify them. I laminated planking material to the inside surface of the rails where they were to meet the three timbers, then I sanded them to the necessary contour. Once I was satisfied, I then sanded the outside surface down to create the right width throughout its length. This effectively reshaped the piece. For anyone else using the practicum, I would suggest installing the other rails and timbers first, and only then making the middle rail to fit.
 
On the gallery, I know my work here isn't especially beautiful, but it's the result of several failed attempts and if there's one thing I've learned it's to know my limitations and when to cut my loses, so this is what it's going to be. The nameplate looked like it was going to be a bit of a challenge. The laser cut plate provided required painting and I knew I'd never get a satisfactory job. The trailboard isn't so difficult as all the curving detail allows a fair bit of margin for error, but the lettering is another story altogether. The practicum suggests using dry transfer lettering. I ordered some, but it is very difficult to hold it in place correctly and to get a straight string of letters. Also, often despite rubbing the letter, only a portion of it actually comes off which leaves quite a mess. In the end I turned to Microsoft Word. I created the lettering in a Word document, approximating it as closely as I could. I cut it out, glued it to a piece of wood and then sealed it with polyurethane. It seems to work ok.
 
So that pretty much brings my build log up to date.
David

Hi Don,
Yes, I started my build log up again today. You should find it under USS Constitution.
David

Hi Don,
Well this certainly looks like an interesting model. I'm looking forward to following along.
David

Hi Matt,
Welcome to the forum and especially to the Constitution group! I've been working on mine for about 10 months. Parts of the model are challenging, but so far I've found it to be all doable and very enjoyable.  
 
It looks like you're off to a good start; I'm looking forward to following along.
David

Dry fitting of bulkheads.
 
 
 
Matt

Hi Matt,
I wouldn't worry too much about the bulkheads not matching the drawings perfectly. The main thing is their relationship to each other and that after fairing you have a good smooth contour. I paid no attention to the bevel lines on the plans and just glued the bulkheads in place on the keel and only then began to fair them, frequently holding a test strip of planking across them until I was satisfied with the contour. Something that is important is that they line up properly with the top of the keel and that they meet the bearding line. I think it's best to make them line up flush at the top first and do any fixing that's needed at the bottom. If one or more of them falls a bit short of the bearding line, which might happen, just glue a strip of wood along the edge of the bulkhead from about the middle point down and sand it into shape. I had to do that on a couple of mine. If one seems a bit too long, just sand it back. Similarly, as you're fairing and you hold a test planking strip along the side, if a bulkhead seems to cause a low spot, you can glue a strip to its edge and then sand it into shape. I think you'll find that approach will give you a satisfactory result and save some frustration trying to reconcile the parts and the plans.
David

Hi Matt,
I wouldn't worry too much about the bulkheads not matching the drawings perfectly. The main thing is their relationship to each other and that after fairing you have a good smooth contour. I paid no attention to the bevel lines on the plans and just glued the bulkheads in place on the keel and only then began to fair them, frequently holding a test strip of planking across them until I was satisfied with the contour. Something that is important is that they line up properly with the top of the keel and that they meet the bearding line. I think it's best to make them line up flush at the top first and do any fixing that's needed at the bottom. If one or more of them falls a bit short of the bearding line, which might happen, just glue a strip of wood along the edge of the bulkhead from about the middle point down and sand it into shape. I had to do that on a couple of mine. If one seems a bit too long, just sand it back. Similarly, as you're fairing and you hold a test planking strip along the side, if a bulkhead seems to cause a low spot, you can glue a strip to its edge and then sand it into shape. I think you'll find that approach will give you a satisfactory result and save some frustration trying to reconcile the parts and the plans.
David

Hi Matt,
I'm not really at the mast stage yet. I have been skipping around a little bit. I still have much to do on the deck and hull. While the sequence for the build is important in many areas, there are still many aspects that can be treated like separate projects, worked on for a while and set aside without interrupting the flow of the work. For example I started working on the four boats ages ago, but still don't have any of them finished yet. Also, I build the set of gun carriages long before they were needed. I think I'll complete one mast and then set it aside and return to the deck details. It's just nice to have something else to turn to when the mood strikes. Of course, by the time you're at the rigging stage, most alternative options are gone and it's just rigging until the end. I wouldn't worry too much about the rigging though. I generally don't find it very hard to do but there sure is a lot of it on this model and it can be finicky and requires lots of patience. The main knots you need are the clove hitch for the ratlines and a seizing knot (I think this is the same as the hangman's) for pretty much everything else.
 
I'm not brave enough to start making modifications to the kit, so I have left that sort of thing for others; I'm happy enough to get through the build as it is.
 
Using styrene for certain components would never have occurred to me, but I've been working with the Bob Hunt practicum and he suggests it in several places, so that's why I've been using it. I find that I really hate using it too, but have to admit that it does seem ideal for some of the ship's features - detailing on the stern and head rails primarily. I have also made a couple of other very small components from it, when they're going to be painted anyway and the basswood would be hard to cut cleanly in such small sizes. I was really doubtful that I'd have satisfactory results with it for the chafing fish, but I was actually pleasantly surprised. I think it's a matter of what's going to work best for you.
 
I am really not in a position to share "advice" with anyone as I'm fairly new to the hobby myself and there are many more qualified people out there. So please understand that I'm just sharing my experience which I'm happy to do if it's of some use.
 
David

Hi Matt,
Welcome to the forum and especially to the Constitution group! I've been working on mine for about 10 months. Parts of the model are challenging, but so far I've found it to be all doable and very enjoyable.  
 
It looks like you're off to a good start; I'm looking forward to following along.
David

Hi Matt,
I wouldn't worry too much about the bulkheads not matching the drawings perfectly. The main thing is their relationship to each other and that after fairing you have a good smooth contour. I paid no attention to the bevel lines on the plans and just glued the bulkheads in place on the keel and only then began to fair them, frequently holding a test strip of planking across them until I was satisfied with the contour. Something that is important is that they line up properly with the top of the keel and that they meet the bearding line. I think it's best to make them line up flush at the top first and do any fixing that's needed at the bottom. If one or more of them falls a bit short of the bearding line, which might happen, just glue a strip of wood along the edge of the bulkhead from about the middle point down and sand it into shape. I had to do that on a couple of mine. If one seems a bit too long, just sand it back. Similarly, as you're fairing and you hold a test planking strip along the side, if a bulkhead seems to cause a low spot, you can glue a strip to its edge and then sand it into shape. I think you'll find that approach will give you a satisfactory result and save some frustration trying to reconcile the parts and the plans.
David

Hi Matt,
I wouldn't worry too much about the bulkheads not matching the drawings perfectly. The main thing is their relationship to each other and that after fairing you have a good smooth contour. I paid no attention to the bevel lines on the plans and just glued the bulkheads in place on the keel and only then began to fair them, frequently holding a test strip of planking across them until I was satisfied with the contour. Something that is important is that they line up properly with the top of the keel and that they meet the bearding line. I think it's best to make them line up flush at the top first and do any fixing that's needed at the bottom. If one or more of them falls a bit short of the bearding line, which might happen, just glue a strip of wood along the edge of the bulkhead from about the middle point down and sand it into shape. I had to do that on a couple of mine. If one seems a bit too long, just sand it back. Similarly, as you're fairing and you hold a test planking strip along the side, if a bulkhead seems to cause a low spot, you can glue a strip to its edge and then sand it into shape. I think you'll find that approach will give you a satisfactory result and save some frustration trying to reconcile the parts and the plans.
David

Hi Matt,
I wouldn't worry too much about the bulkheads not matching the drawings perfectly. The main thing is their relationship to each other and that after fairing you have a good smooth contour. I paid no attention to the bevel lines on the plans and just glued the bulkheads in place on the keel and only then began to fair them, frequently holding a test strip of planking across them until I was satisfied with the contour. Something that is important is that they line up properly with the top of the keel and that they meet the bearding line. I think it's best to make them line up flush at the top first and do any fixing that's needed at the bottom. If one or more of them falls a bit short of the bearding line, which might happen, just glue a strip of wood along the edge of the bulkhead from about the middle point down and sand it into shape. I had to do that on a couple of mine. If one seems a bit too long, just sand it back. Similarly, as you're fairing and you hold a test planking strip along the side, if a bulkhead seems to cause a low spot, you can glue a strip to its edge and then sand it into shape. I think you'll find that approach will give you a satisfactory result and save some frustration trying to reconcile the parts and the plans.
David

Hi Matt,
I'm not really at the mast stage yet. I have been skipping around a little bit. I still have much to do on the deck and hull. While the sequence for the build is important in many areas, there are still many aspects that can be treated like separate projects, worked on for a while and set aside without interrupting the flow of the work. For example I started working on the four boats ages ago, but still don't have any of them finished yet. Also, I build the set of gun carriages long before they were needed. I think I'll complete one mast and then set it aside and return to the deck details. It's just nice to have something else to turn to when the mood strikes. Of course, by the time you're at the rigging stage, most alternative options are gone and it's just rigging until the end. I wouldn't worry too much about the rigging though. I generally don't find it very hard to do but there sure is a lot of it on this model and it can be finicky and requires lots of patience. The main knots you need are the clove hitch for the ratlines and a seizing knot (I think this is the same as the hangman's) for pretty much everything else.
 
I'm not brave enough to start making modifications to the kit, so I have left that sort of thing for others; I'm happy enough to get through the build as it is.
 
Using styrene for certain components would never have occurred to me, but I've been working with the Bob Hunt practicum and he suggests it in several places, so that's why I've been using it. I find that I really hate using it too, but have to admit that it does seem ideal for some of the ship's features - detailing on the stern and head rails primarily. I have also made a couple of other very small components from it, when they're going to be painted anyway and the basswood would be hard to cut cleanly in such small sizes. I was really doubtful that I'd have satisfactory results with it for the chafing fish, but I was actually pleasantly surprised. I think it's a matter of what's going to work best for you.
 
I am really not in a position to share "advice" with anyone as I'm fairly new to the hobby myself and there are many more qualified people out there. So please understand that I'm just sharing my experience which I'm happy to do if it's of some use.
 
David

Hi Matt,
Welcome to the forum and especially to the Constitution group! I've been working on mine for about 10 months. Parts of the model are challenging, but so far I've found it to be all doable and very enjoyable.  
 
It looks like you're off to a good start; I'm looking forward to following along.
David

Hi Matt,
I'm not really at the mast stage yet. I have been skipping around a little bit. I still have much to do on the deck and hull. While the sequence for the build is important in many areas, there are still many aspects that can be treated like separate projects, worked on for a while and set aside without interrupting the flow of the work. For example I started working on the four boats ages ago, but still don't have any of them finished yet. Also, I build the set of gun carriages long before they were needed. I think I'll complete one mast and then set it aside and return to the deck details. It's just nice to have something else to turn to when the mood strikes. Of course, by the time you're at the rigging stage, most alternative options are gone and it's just rigging until the end. I wouldn't worry too much about the rigging though. I generally don't find it very hard to do but there sure is a lot of it on this model and it can be finicky and requires lots of patience. The main knots you need are the clove hitch for the ratlines and a seizing knot (I think this is the same as the hangman's) for pretty much everything else.
 
I'm not brave enough to start making modifications to the kit, so I have left that sort of thing for others; I'm happy enough to get through the build as it is.
 
Using styrene for certain components would never have occurred to me, but I've been working with the Bob Hunt practicum and he suggests it in several places, so that's why I've been using it. I find that I really hate using it too, but have to admit that it does seem ideal for some of the ship's features - detailing on the stern and head rails primarily. I have also made a couple of other very small components from it, when they're going to be painted anyway and the basswood would be hard to cut cleanly in such small sizes. I was really doubtful that I'd have satisfactory results with it for the chafing fish, but I was actually pleasantly surprised. I think it's a matter of what's going to work best for you.
 
I am really not in a position to share "advice" with anyone as I'm fairly new to the hobby myself and there are many more qualified people out there. So please understand that I'm just sharing my experience which I'm happy to do if it's of some use.
 
David

Hi Matt,
I'm not really at the mast stage yet. I have been skipping around a little bit. I still have much to do on the deck and hull. While the sequence for the build is important in many areas, there are still many aspects that can be treated like separate projects, worked on for a while and set aside without interrupting the flow of the work. For example I started working on the four boats ages ago, but still don't have any of them finished yet. Also, I build the set of gun carriages long before they were needed. I think I'll complete one mast and then set it aside and return to the deck details. It's just nice to have something else to turn to when the mood strikes. Of course, by the time you're at the rigging stage, most alternative options are gone and it's just rigging until the end. I wouldn't worry too much about the rigging though. I generally don't find it very hard to do but there sure is a lot of it on this model and it can be finicky and requires lots of patience. The main knots you need are the clove hitch for the ratlines and a seizing knot (I think this is the same as the hangman's) for pretty much everything else.
 
I'm not brave enough to start making modifications to the kit, so I have left that sort of thing for others; I'm happy enough to get through the build as it is.
 
Using styrene for certain components would never have occurred to me, but I've been working with the Bob Hunt practicum and he suggests it in several places, so that's why I've been using it. I find that I really hate using it too, but have to admit that it does seem ideal for some of the ship's features - detailing on the stern and head rails primarily. I have also made a couple of other very small components from it, when they're going to be painted anyway and the basswood would be hard to cut cleanly in such small sizes. I was really doubtful that I'd have satisfactory results with it for the chafing fish, but I was actually pleasantly surprised. I think it's a matter of what's going to work best for you.
 
I am really not in a position to share "advice" with anyone as I'm fairly new to the hobby myself and there are many more qualified people out there. So please understand that I'm just sharing my experience which I'm happy to do if it's of some use.
 
David

Hi Matt,
Welcome to the forum and especially to the Constitution group! I've been working on mine for about 10 months. Parts of the model are challenging, but so far I've found it to be all doable and very enjoyable.  
 
It looks like you're off to a good start; I'm looking forward to following along.
David

Hi Dave,
I continue to marvel at how precise and crisp your work looks. This model is just amazing. I, on the other hand, continue to be the master of fuzzy edges. Nevertheless, it's a real pleasure and inspiration to see the results of your skills.
David

Hi All,
I'm still just barely started on deck and hull details, but nevertheless felt like a change of pace, so I started shaping the lower masts. I was curious to find out how well the styrene would work for the chafing fish. I find that styrene very unpleasant to work with generally and it seemed to me that the .03 sheet would be very resistance to bending around the masts. However I was pleasantly surprised to find that it worked like a charm and wasn't even too hard to do. The secret is to do it in stages and to hold it in place with large paper clips and leave it for a long time. I often make the mistake of thinking CA glue is instant, but for something like this it needs to set for quite a long time.
 
I first applied glue only to the lower narrow part of the piece and clamped it in place. Then to the centre only of the upper wider section. Then to one side of the wider section and finally the other side. That's four separate steps to the process and for the one mast it was actually five as I needed to give the extreme outer edge on one side another gluing and clamping.
 
I sanded the edges and once it's all painted it should be just fine.
 
As always, thanks for checking in.
David
 
 

Thanks Dave,
When I was doing some google research on Flemish coils, most of the references I found were to modern sail boats rather than old war ships. It seems there is a school of thought that overuse of these coils can be considered "yachty" which is evidently a pejorative term. I don't know enough about sail boats to have an opinion one way or the other, but I guess to some I will have a very "yachty" Constitution!
 
David
 

Hi Dave,
I continue to marvel at how precise and crisp your work looks. This model is just amazing. I, on the other hand, continue to be the master of fuzzy edges. Nevertheless, it's a real pleasure and inspiration to see the results of your skills.
David

Hi Dave,
I continue to marvel at how precise and crisp your work looks. This model is just amazing. I, on the other hand, continue to be the master of fuzzy edges. Nevertheless, it's a real pleasure and inspiration to see the results of your skills.
David