GuntherMT

It has been a while since I posted my progress on my Medway Longboat.  The world has changed a lot since my last post.
 
I have completed the painting using many coats of thinned Grumbacher Red Cadmium Medium Hue.  I am satisfied with the outcome.  It found that I achieved a better finish using a fatter round brush than the one that I posted a picture of in a previous post.  I believe it laid down a much smoother coat than the smaller brush and the color was a consistent flat, slightly satin finish.
 





I have a few more items to complete and I will be finished with the hull.  Please stay safe.

Bob, I am using Grumbacher Academy Acrylic Cadmium Red Medium Hue paint on this build.  The cockpit seats below have nine coats of highly thinned paint on them and I will probably add another three or more coats.  I thin the paint with distilled water and lightly sand the surface with 400 and 600 grit sanding sticks after every three or four coats.  I use a thick brush as it will hold a lot of water.  It is just like painting with water colors.  I put a small dab of paint in my painting dish and add a drop of water beside the paint.  I place a small amount of paint on the tip of my brush and then dip the tip in the water.  This thins the paint.  I am constantly adding water as the brush soaks it up.  It takes time, but it leaves a painted surface without brush marks.  I have to credit Chuck Passaro with teaching me this technique.

Thanks everyone for your comments and also for the "Likes".  They keep me motivated to keep moving forward on this build.
 
I completed the thwarts earlier this week and today I completed the cockpit seats.  These took me some time to do as I would sand and file the notches, fit the piece, sand and file the notches some more and fit the piece again.  I did this many times for each piece and found it a slow process, but very rewarding.  I am very happy with the results and received a lot of positive comments for my fellow club members at the Hampton Roads Ship Model Society meeting this past Saturday.  Here is a picture of my work since my last post:

 
Here is a picture of the Longboat with the thwarts and cockpit seats dry fitted:
 

I had jumped ahead of the instructions as I wanted to construct the interior details before I painted the model.  I feel this worked out very well for me as I was handling the model quite a bit fitting the interior details.  I am sure that I would have a lot of paint touch up to do if I had painted the cap rails before I did the interior details.  I cannot wait to get some color on this model as it really looks dull with no paint on it.

I have completed installing the risers and now I will start on the thwarts.  I hope everyone has a happy and safe new year and I wish good health to you in 2020.
 

Thanks everyone for the comments and the "Likes".
 
Rich, thanks for the link to the Jax blackening agent.  I ordered the 4 ounce jar and received it very quickly.  This should last me a long time.
 
I initially painted the cap rail and did not like the color that I chose.  I stripped the paint off by scraping and sanding and will repaint it later with a different color of red.  I decided to move on to Chapter 4 and install the floor boards and the bow and stern platforms.  I felt this would be better for me as there would be no paint on the cap rails for me to mess up.  I found it easier to make a pattern out of card stock as recommended in the instructions for the platforms and then transfer it to the laser cut platforms.  This helped to locate the notches for the frames.  Here is a picture of the paper patterns that I made:
 

I used a sharp blade and small files to make the cuts on the platforms.  I also had to bevel the bottom of the platforms to sit properly on the frames.  This was a slow process for me, but I was satisfied with the fit.  Here is a picture of the bow and stern platforms with the simulated nails installed and two coats of wipe-on-poly applied:
 

And here is a picture of the platforms dry fitted to the inside of the hull:
 

 
I will be installing the risers next.  I am really enjoying this build.

I wish I could say that - but they are not. Take a look at the photo I made from sheet no. 8:
 

 
Shown are the top futtocks of frame 35, 36 and 36. you can see the tapering lines for the lower heads. The marks on one side are too narrow while the counterparts have their marks too wide. The true line is among between both marks. I have checked the frames 31 - 34 and the tapering is off the plan. I may ask Tom for some replacement sheets and will keep that in mind next time.

Thank you PetaV for your suggestion. That was my first idea, but the location of every part is determined by the engraved laser markings. For example the area where the middle futtock has to be glued to the top one (and vice versa) is marked by laser. 
 

 
So that part of the construction is idiot-proof (well unfortunately I have proved I‘m not). I rather believe, that the tapering marks do not correspond to the plan and therefore too much substance was sanded off. But I‘m not sure.

Unfortunately I ran into my first construction problem. I started to build some stern frames which require a lot of tapering. Building instructions of all frames are rare but all parts have tapering lines already engraved - which means you have to rely on the the correct positions of these. There is a tapering line at the bottom of the rear side of the upper futtocks and I read this that the lower head has to be tapered straight from the opposite edge to this line.
 


But tapering will reduce the width of the part at the lower edge, means the inner edge run from inside to outside. Compared to the plan (side view) after tapering the run of the lower side edge of the futtocks (installed on the frame) matches the plan (although there is a little perspective error). If there was no tapering then the upper futtock edge run would rather look like stairs.


 
But the topside view of the frames 31 - 34 doesn‘t match the plan. Here are the topside plan and a picture of the prototype:


 

 
And here is a picture of my assembled frames 31 -34. Note the run of the lower inner edge of the upper futtocks - they run quite into the opposite direction and I don‘t get the reason why. 
 

 
So at the moment there are only two possibilities for this that come into my mind. First the tapering angle is incorrect so too much tapering has been made - means the tapering lines were misplaced. And the second is there is no tapering at all and the line has to be ignored. I have contacted Tom from CAF, he has gently replied very fast and showed me some perspective views - but these look like there is no or only some slight tapering at the lower edges of the upper futtocks. But no tapering would hardly match the side view of the plan. Any suggestion would be helpful. 
 
Best regards, 
Andreas 
 
P.S. Fortunately these are the only tapered frames I have made so far.

My son gave me this throwback kit for my birthday, one I had built and flown many, many years ago. So before I get cracking on finishing the last bits of rigging on HMS Bounty I thought I’d do this as a holiday project. Decided to employ my wooden ship skills such as they are by modifying the kit so it will make a reasonable display model to hang in the new workshop. 
Its a simple kit so I’ll just summarize the process so far. The laser cutting is exceptional and putting together the basic frames is straightforward. You’d normally now just cover this with tissue. Instead I inserted 150 pieces of balsa into the framework and then applied a thin watered down layer of latex wood filler and lightly sanded to give a final form, sort of like a clay model. For the wing, I covered the frame with 1/16 balsa underneath and 1/32 basswood topsides. I’ve nested wheel assemblies into the wing so it will look right flying off the ceiling. I ditched the tail assemblies in the kit and formed a more functional rudder and stabilizer from 1/4” balsa. So now I have the basic form of the Spit, and will work on incorporating more detail before painting. 

First planking complete and sanded smooth. This is 1mm thick x 5mm wide limewood, much easier to work with than 1.5mm thick lime (Took a day to plank and 20 minutes to sand). Hull lines are quite planking friendly, so not much overlap to sand. No changes needed for the bulkheads, as all planks sit just right on each, so this means I have no more work to do on main skeletal structure. No gun ports to mark out and cut out, too, they will just need a slight file so they are flush with the main frames.

I'm Al in Canada. Joined back in Oct,. Been drifting around on MSW even before I moored myself to MSW's dock.
Thought It's about time I come ashore and introduce myself. Happy New Year.
 
 I was bitten by the wood model ship hobby in 1978  I think the hobby was a natural transition for me 
because since my youth I've had this fascination with the early ships of sail and the history.   When I first set eyes on the
wood model Cutty Sark I had to jump on board. However, even though unaware of all the pitfalls and "cautionary tales" a neophyte can
fall into, and no tools I forged ahead.  I bought the necessary books and minimum of tools.  Things were unfurling nicely until I went away
for two days and upon my return the cat had chewed the bulkheads and deck to sawdust. Away to the deep six she went. The cat stayed
 and lived happily.  I don't know, maybe she thought a mouse had got aboard. She got the benefit of the doubt anyway. 
 
Next attempt 20 years later in 1998 with AL's Charles W Morgan. Again, the pitfalls. Didn't have the skill or knowledge and didn't understand
the instruction for the most part. Just too much for me. However I had a computer and joined a ship modeling site and found Micro Mark.  The
awesome members on the ship modeling site helped me so much. My skills, knowledge and confidence improved. I got the hull completed and 
deck. However, life's responsibilities kept pulling me against the wind. Eventually the Morgan laid on her side against the rocks for 10-years, and sunk.
A sad demise for a ship of her historical significance that I still regret. I even had bought a full set of plans of her from Mystic Seaport that somehow 
have been lost through my travels or tucked away in some forgotten crevice.
 
These past attempts were a great learning experience. There were never any failures, just many steps toward what will be eventual success, and the
knowing that I would someday return to this hobby that still fills my sails with a fair breeze.  Now at 70-years, retired I'm deciding what ship(s) to build.
No final decisions yet, but I will keep in mind the " Cautionary Tales For Beginners " and keep my endeavors on an even keel.
 
"May you all have fair winds and following seas".
 
 

The mobile shipyard...not pretty but functional...just some shelving fornts and a lid restaint to be added/

Nicely done.  I'm curious about the little tags you have attached to the bases, I assume the numbering system on them means something?

Nicely done.  I'm curious about the little tags you have attached to the bases, I assume the numbering system on them means something?

Spanish translation for Bob - 
 
Good evening, on December 5th I bought you 3 books, Rigging a Sloop of the Sixth Category of War 1767-1780, Frigates of the Royal Navy HMS EURYALUS (36) 1803 A Plank on Frame Model, Volume I by Allan Yedlinsky and Wayne Kempson and the Frigates of the Royal Navy HMS EURYALUS (36) 1803 A Plank on Frame Model, Volume II by Allan Yedlinsky and Wayne Kempson. Please tell me when you send it to me, by what means of transport and the tracking code, the tracking code is very important. I look forward to hearing from you.
 

Thanks
 
The numbering does indeed have a logic
GB = Groot Britanie  (Great Britain)
A = Amerika (USA)
F = Frankrijk (France)
etc...

The number under the letter is the number per country. The small number at the bottom right is the number in the total collection
The name of the manufacturer is printed on the back
So
GB        Great Britain
179       the 179th "Englishman"
        1426     N° 1426  build
 
All this is in an Excel file, otherwise I have no idea what I have already built.

Nicely done.  I'm curious about the little tags you have attached to the bases, I assume the numbering system on them means something?

Finishing the models
 
applying rust 

Glued on the base plate (afther this a wash with thinned black)
ready and tagged
The 2 vehicles are given an English number, so all vehicles of this chassis are together. The trailer has a French number, then I remember what the origin was

Belgium 1941 on the training ground

Belgium 2021 in the cabinet

 
Ps
Good advice from the manufacturer

It has been a long time since I built such difficult models. If anyone ever buys a kit from Ace, don't start with these 2.
 
Finished !
Thanks for the following, the likes and of course the comments on these builds .

Small update
 
Camouflage color applied and details painted.

Decals applied and base plates ready.  

 Finish line in sight 👍

Smal update,  assemble the last parts before painting.
 
Building the trailer also had its own problems...

All smaller parts are in place and the models are ready for further painting

Painted in the base color

 
Thanks for following

Wheels and tracks.
 
After a few hours, all parts are cleaned and painted in the base color.

Ready for assembling (the sprocket wheels have some of the teeth removed)

Work in progress, this was very complicated and required a lot of cutting and trimming.

Wheels in place and tracks pre painted. 
In the meantime started work on the trailer.The origin of the modified trailer is French. It is normally pulled by a Renault UE and has 4 wheels and tracks. Why  there is now only 1 axle with 2 wheels underneath? who knows 

   a Renault UE and trailer (wikipedia)
 
 
Track mounting. Started below, then around the sprocket wheel, then around the rear wheel. Cut to lenght en glue 

all wheels and tracks in place, a time consuming work .
From now on nothing can go wrong, I hope 

Thanks for following (and patience )

Building the howitzer compartment.
 
Extra detail on the 4 seats

New ammo (cleaning the ammo from the kit was more work) and some other extra's

Drilling out the barrel 
I always do this with a knife like this. Just turn the blade until the correct diameter is reached. Ideal method in plastic
But, watch out for the fingers...

 
ready for painting
Parts painted, adding the howitzer is for later

glued together (and a wash with diluted black)

Next, wheels an tracks. Again lots of cleaning to do...

Thanks for following

Building the superstructure of both vehicles.
 
The ammo carrier (left) 
All parts fit  👍

Grrr 

Some cutting and sanding, and hairpins and glue 

The gun carrier : little space availeble for many things to place 

 
Some extra parts for detail ( from Russian kv turret...)
The instructions say to place the cannon first.
But I don't know if the parts of the superstructure will fit

so i make the superstructure first and dry fit this on the chassis (Surprise, it fits from the first time )

And then the cannon doesn't go in anymore

I will place the cannon first and then the superstructure. 
It's been a long time since I've built such a difficult kit like this one. But we'll get there.

Instruction riddles   :  Make part C and see where you put it an they sometimes forget to number part 5


Thanks for following

Next build 
 
The 10.5cm LeFH-16 auf geschuetzpanzer Mark.VI(e) and the munitionspanzer Mark VI(e)
 
In simple english 
A 10.5 cm howitzer on the chassis of a captured British Mark VI light tank and the accompanying ammunition vehicle.
 
both models are from ACE
http://acemodel.com.ua/en/model/558     http://acemodel.com.ua/en/model/495

General history 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/10.5_cm_leFH_16_Gesch%C3%BCtzwagen_Mk_VI_736_(e)
 
The myth of a modern motorized German army in 1940 is not entirely true.
Only elite panzer divisions had modern (tank) equipment ( some of which were actually just training vehicles). Their tactics were more daring and modern.
After the Blitzkrieg of 1940, Germany had a large amount of captured material at its disposal. All this went into the service of the German Whermacht.
 
A certain Alfred Becker had the idea of mounting his unit's howitzers on these light tanks. 
They served well on the Eastern Front and were the first fully self-propelled howitzer unit in the German Whermacht.

Alfred Becker's talents did not go unnoticed. Baucommando Becker (Build unit Becker) turned hopelessly outdated French vehicles and tanks into completely "new" German vehicles that made it quite difficult for the Allies in Normandy (1944)
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfred_Becker
 
 
The plans and the parts

Start building the two hulls. as always with short run kits a lot of flash and a lot of cleaning.

to be continued
 

Quite a bit of progress over the last 2 weeks, aided by retirement from 18 Dec!
 
First up, while waiting for paint to dry on the cockpit seats, was the windlass. I ended up having several goes at this. I wasn’t happy with the shape of the ends after my first attempt. On my second attempt, I wasn’t happy with the shape of the square holes (I’d managed to elongate them). On my third attempt, I decided to machine the tenons on the ends. When I placed this inside the boat, it seemed to me that there was too much of a gap between the square section of the windlass and the riser bracket. I compared the windlass template to the plan drawing and noticed that the position of the square holes differed markedly – by about 10mm between centres. In other words, the whole of the square sections on the plan drawings were 5mm further towards the riser bracket than those on the template. I checked in with Chuck on this and his advice was to stick with the template dimensions. Just for the heck of it, I decided to have one more go, this time moving the square sections further out (by about half the actual difference in the drawings). I also decided to do as much of the shaping as possible using a combination of mill and lathe. Since I was going to the trouble of setting up the machines, I took the precaution of preparing two blanks (these were made from some spare 1/2” square boxwood that I had in my stash). I first thinned these down to the 3/8” square using the Byrnes thickness sander. It turned out to be just as well that I prepared two blanks. I was just completing the final machining process on the first blank (turning the final diameter for the tenon) when I took too big a cut and broke the part. Fortunately, I had completed all of the machining processes on both blanks as I went, so it was no big deal to simply complete that last process on the second blank, taking lighter cuts.
 
The picture below shows the final result. Going from left to right, my first attempt through to the final version, along with the two windlass bars also finally shaped. The fourth (and final) version show the effect of moving the square sections further outboard. I decided I preferred this position. The square holes were achieved by first drilling with a 3/32” drill bit, and then cleaning up with a 3/32” micro chisel (one of my lovely Russian set made by Mikhail).
 

 
 
Next up was the mast ironwork. No issues here – just followed Chuck’s excellent instructions and used JAX Pewter Black for blackening. I did find the belaying pins a bit of a challenge, but again following Chuck’s advice I managed to achieve four reasonably similar results.
 

 
The Thole pins were next. Here I departed from Chuck’s suggestion of turning these in the Dremel/rotary tool. Instead, I used my Byrnes draw plate to bring the 3/64” square stock down to a diameter of about 1mm. Following Ryland’s excellent idea from his build log, I made a small jig to position the thole pins a consistent distance from each other within each pair, and also from the edge of the cap rail. The picture below also shows the completed cockpit seats, as well as the three sets of knees on the relevant thwarts.
 

 
The Fixed Block for the Stem was made up according to the instructions and fitted to the starboard side of the Stem. 
 

 
And the Roller for the bow was made up and fitted on the port side.
 

 
The rudder was next. I first tapered the rudder from forward to aft, per the instructions, and also rounded over the forward edge. The rudder hinges presented no particular problem and were installed per the instructions. Of note here is Chuck’s advice to thin these down once fitted, before adding the wire bolts. Once these were completed, the hinges were painted black, the red section painted at the head of the rudder, and the friezes applied. The tiller was made up from a section of the supplied 3/32” square stock, chucked in the Proxxon rotary handset and shaped with sandpaper and files. A small round tenon was made on the rear of the tiller and a hole drilled in the rudder to accept the tenon.
 

 
 
I also decided to take Ryland’s advice and fit the stands to the hull at this stage (actually prior to fitting the thole pins). I’ve also made up the grapnel, although there are no pictures of this yet. Here are a few overview shots showing the completed hull. The rudder has been installed in the photo but has since been removed for safe keeping to avoid damage during the next phase of building.
 

 

 
And finally, one with completed hull posed on the display stand.
 

 
On to the masting and rigging next but will probably have a slight pause while I attend to a 1:1 scale project for a friend….