GuntherMT

Tonight's update is for two different things.
 
1) Finished the starboard lanyards, and took some pictures.  I included one of the now completed swivel guns, just because I like it!
 

 
Shrouds are now complete (I think), with the obvious exception of the ratlines.
 
2) Part two of this update I blame completely on Dirk.  
 
The bowsprit is now attached to the ship (not the jib boom).
 
The base (foot?) strap is made of 5 pieces of brass soldered together, and 4 tiny little brass rivets that actually do pin into the bowsprit and the deck.
 

 
The cast gannon strap that came with the kit was somehow lost by me some time back, but instead of asking for a replacement from MS, I just made a new one out of brass, and attached it with 4 more tiny little rivets.

 
Pretty happy with both of these items, and the rivets should make them quite secure, even if they aren't correct for the model (I have no idea if they used big bolts to secure this sort of things in the time-frame of this ship - 1768).

Repairs went far better than I could have expected.
 

 
Lanyards on the port side are completed.

 
Starboard side will be another day.

With the shrouds attached to the dead-eyes, it was time to add the shroud cleats.  I hated the look of the kit brittania cast cleats, so I ordered some boxwood shroud cleats from Syren.  They look.. somewhat nicer than the cast ones.

 
Things have been going far to good for quite a while now, so troubles were bound to happen, and tonight.. was the night.
 
The starboard side is coming out great, all rigged up and set for final adjustments before I wrap the lanyard around the shroud and seize the end.

 
The trouble was on the port side.  Even though I measured both sides the same, and everything still measures the same relative to the chain plate locations, the ship is clearly not perfectly symmetrical, as this happened.
 

 
Stupid swivel gun post is interfering with one of the shrouds, and in a big way.

 
There is really nothing to do except deconstruct it, but man I'm afraid of this, those suckers are attached pretty firmly, and goodness knows how much damage I'm going to do getting it removed.  Oh well, it's got to be done, but I'm going to let it rest for the night and start fresh on it after work tomorrow I think.  Maybe I should import Dirk to help me  
 
Wish me luck!
 
 

Today's project (and last nights) was the shrouds.  Lots of serving of rope, but I think I'm good on thread for a while.

 
The dead-eye/shroud jigs I made worked fantastically, and allowed me to make much better looking rigging than I would have thought at this point, being only my 2nd build.  I also used zip-seizings on top of the dead-eyes to allow the proper rigging of the shrouds crossing over on top of the dead-eyes.  Really like the way they turned out.

 
Current status, shrouds completed, but attached to the jigs.  I am trying to decide the easiest way to seize the shroud cleats - I am leaning towards removing the jig, and seizing them by sticking the shrouds in a third hand to the side of the ship, one at a time, rather than trying to work on the inside of the shrouds on the ship.
 

 
About a year ago, when I first started building the Carmen and found MSW, I spent a lot of time going through build logs, and like any new thing, I think people tend to see a specific 'thing' that make them go "Wow, that is amazing, I could never do that".  On this site, for this hobby, there is a lot of that 'wow' factor in many of the logs here, but one of the main ones that stuck out to me (for whatever strange reason) was the mast-heads on some of the ships, where so many ropes come together and chaos should reign, but instead, there is an orderly and neat stack of ropes showing a definite purpose and design.
 
Today I had a real 'wow' moment in my ship modeling.

 
I have no idea why that seems so amazing to me, but it really does, and even now I'm having a difficult time believing that yes, it really was me that did this thing (although there is more to go there of course).  There have been plenty of things on this ship that were more difficult than this, and took far more effort to be happy with, but for strange reasons in my head, this is probably one of the coolest moments for me so far in the hobby.  It's a good day.

Looks much better.  Final suggestion, if you lock the lower deadeyes in place, you can tighten up the lanyards (remember, on the real ship they are quite tight to hold the mast steady from side to side) which should pull the upper deadeye in line fairly well now that the lanyards are run correctly so that they won't be trying to force a twist.

Brian, but Gunther is fine too, it's an old nick-name.
Your idea to thread the needle through is a good one.  In my case I wasn't looking far enough ahead when I put the shrouds on the deadeyes, and thought I was being smart my making the shrouds so tight around the deadeyes.  Later on I realized how the lanyards were supposed to run through the gaps, and was sort of kicking myself.  I chose not to redo them because it would have required completely remaking the shrouds.  I did everything on a jig, which you can see if you select my AVS build log link in my signature - I have an index in the first post which you can use to jump to the entry "Main mast standing rigging begins" which is where the jig is shown (or, just click there, since apparently copy/pasting the line in the log also copied the link).

Ignore the first drawing I posted when looking to secure the lanyard at the end.  Look carefully at the 2nd illustration.  The lanyard comes up behind the deadeye from below, going FIRST through the gap between the deadeye and the shroud, then loops around and underneath itself, and then wraps around the shroud above.  There are no knots, the very end of the line is seized to the shroud with a small seize.
 

 
The red arrow is pointing to the seizing.  Notice that there are no knots at all.  On my model I accomplished keeping this line fairly neat by the simple expedient of soaking everything thoroughly in 50/50 white glue/water mixture and just taking my time.
 
Mine are not quite done correctly either, as I did not leave enough gap between the deadeye and shroud to make the proper feed through from below, so mine just wrap around and under instead of going through the gap like they should.  It would be neater and more secure with the gap though.
 

I agree with the prior two posts, the lanyards are being run incorrectly, and that is probably where your twist is coming from.  The lanyards should always run from outside face to outside face, never cross from front to back in the run from top to bottom, and when it comes up to the top on the last one, it should be behind the deadeye.
 
This drawing is wrong on where to start (should be on the left, not the right), but shows that the lanyards always go from outside to outside, and inside to inside.  If you flip this left to right it's correct:
 

 
Here is another drawing showing it correctly, but without the 'step by step' arrows.  You can see from the 'outboard view' (the one on the right), that the outside always goes to the outside corresponding hole in the deadeyes.  You can also see how the final run comes up from below on the inside, and goes between the deadeye and the cross-over of the shroud.
 

 
Be sure to click on the above drawing to see it full size for clarity.

That's a nice added detail that I didn't do on my hull.  Looks good!

More working on the shrouds..

The books and plans have found a new home. Thanks for the interest and replies.

Video review our new  woodenkit "MOREL" - Yefim Nikonov`s "Secret Vessel"
Scale 1/36
art. MK0203  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Cheers
 
I would only want to produce fittings for kits I have done in the past, 72nd and 64th scale. Have to be careful what I choose to do though, if they have to be complimented with PE fittings (as gun carriages would need to be). Just stuff like capstans, binnacles, and when I have enough ready, a full suite of ships boats. Things like this can only be done if one has their own equipment to make them, I think, as outsourcing the laser cutting for such things is simply not financially viable. 

Well, I have ONE Master Shipwright Speedy kit left in stock! These were genuine limited edition kits, as I will not be doing anymore kits using boxwood for planking for a very good while. Pear is a very nice wood, though.
 
I may have to use a sub contractor to cut more Speedy kits, but if I do not receive anything this side of Christmas, I may as well do these myself, so once the stock is gone, that will be it for a while, as I need to re-organise. I never thought that I would run out of my Speedy stock so quickly.
 
I have ordered my new laser/engraver machine, which will be arriving two weeks today. I have also ordered the materials I will need - but will probably have to re-format all of my existing laser cut CAD files..
 
I would like to start offering fittings. Stuff like closed and open heart blocks (never liked standard kit versions), and gun carriages, all in pearwood and 72 and 64th scales. I did get quotes for these, but the cost was so high, it was this that pushed me into thinking that I need my own laser machine, more freedom.
 
Thank you!

Dear All,
I proud to present my new PL4 series rope making machines.

How to operate on YouTube
 
Full details on ShipWorkshop.com
 
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Series members
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BR,
Alexey
 

Installed the jeers and the forestay and then hang the lower yard on the hook for a test-fit. 🤗

Vanguard Models Master Shipwright kit of HMS Speedy!!

I will put up a thread very soon on this with all details… but the first impression of this kit is simply "wow"!

Everything packed very nicely and protected. Other kits I have bought has been quickly packed with sawdust and manuals with folded paper etc. Here you can really see that someone has made an effort in protection and layout. I have just briefly looked at all the wood and the parts and its simply way beyond what I have worked with previously. Only problem is that if I get used to this level of quality I wont be able to go back to my other kits....

And also a big thanks to Chris who let me order a kit before the official release and it was delievered very quickly to Sweden where I live!   

What's in the box? What's in the box? Whaaaat's in the boooox??? :-P

I will in time, I can say that it will be quite pretty!
 
Yesterday I had 10 sets of Alert 6 and half pounder cannon barrels arrive, with another 30 sets being cast now. 
 
These will now be offered as an optional extra with the original Alert kit, and will be included in the upcoming second edition Alert kit, which will have a higher price to reflect the high cost of the resin cannon and pearwood laser cut parts and 0.8mm birch ply deck.

I‘m working on the shrouds, have installed the shroud clamps and the laynards but only dry fitted until later adjustment. The supplied shroud clamps are made of britannia casting and I substituted them with syren shrouds clamps - they look much more appropriate and scale. Decided to refit the backstays to a more common way so the running rigging now has a lot of space to run downwards.

I've stained the yards, etc to match the rest of the model. I'll now finish dressing them up before rigging them.

Thanks Dave.
All is now in place. The swivel supports are not glued. The tube is just inserted in a hole previously drilled in the wooden support. The guns can thus turn.





Time to work on the last piece before starting the rigging job : the anchors.

Thank you to everyone who follows my work.
The boom sheet traveler has been added.

For the chain plate, I encountered problems with the brass wire provided in the kit. He was too soft and I did not get a regular result. Also I turned to a  set of chain plates from Corel.
They were just a little long. I made a little jig to open the hole for the pin. The green line indicate the future length of the chain plate.


Finally I worked on the swivel cannons. I followed the method used by Blue Ensign for its cutter Alert. The guns are turned brass swivel guns from Syren. The hooks are from Caldercraft and the 1.3 mm brass tube from Albion Alloys Ltd.


The swivel guns were blackened and some grimy black Doc O'Brien's weathering powder was gently rubbed with a brush.

I still have to install all that..

I see what you are talking about, and you can fix that by adding a plank that's wider in the middle.  Instead of just making the plank narrower at one end or the other, make if full width at the point where it will hit the 'bottom' of the V, and then angle it to the appropriate length at each end.  You just sand and work it until it fits snugly into the V, and if that makes the next planking strake narrower, because of filling the V, not a big deal.  You can also correct this way across multiple strakes if needed.
 
Because I'm horrible at explaining, I doodled on some pictures that hopefully will help you understand what I'm talking about.  I had this exact same thing on my ship, and hopefully you can see the 'v' in the planking here:

 
I corrected this across 2 strakes using the 'wider in the middle' planks as seen here on the finished hull:

 
I sort of tried to paint in the shape of the planks to make it clearer, while leaving the edges clear to see the actual planks.  Due to the curve of the hull, and angle of camera the 'top' edge of these planks doesn't look straight, but that edge is actually left completely untouched except for sanding it smooth, so you end up with a plank that actually has 5 edges, 2 on the bottom, 1 on the top, and of course the ends.
 
Hopefully this makes sense and helps.

Dear All,
Would like to offer Dec'19 special prices for MSW members.
Product details you may find on web site here shipworkshop.com
Please include your membership name with order (in PM, "Other Notes" section of order form, email etc).
 
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