Ryland Craze

So, how to do a cabin light to show up the inside 

Trumpeter should definitely hire you to improve their models.... 😄
 
Amazing work.
 
Yves

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

No kidding. When you're wrist deep into all that line the last thing that needs to happen is any sudden movement. Like sneezing or a bug landing on your face. 
 
 Looking better with every post, Bob.  

Taking a big breath and then a long exhale.  I have officially finished the bowsprit and foremast rigging.  With only one line tied to the wrong place. #3 is tied to #5  . I knew when I glued it I said how come this has two lines  lol.  It'll DO.
 
Rigging got eazyer  as I went along, many thanks to members who gave me great advice.
   BUT. Lol. Tangles be on believe  lol. Snags and cut lines oh my . One thing I have learnt is if you feel a sneeze comeing on let go of the rope lol.

 
Pile saps the final line to belaying point #27. Time to move on to the mainmast .
 


I have thing to attend to tomorrow so no rigging.  I could use a break lol. Oh how I hate that word lol 😆  . 
  There is no rush, but it won't be long, this is diffinly  the most challenging  so far besides my first rigging of the Santa Maria. It maybe a little ruff around the edges but she make a fine addition to our data base. I study all the Duchess of Kingston logs there hopeing one day to see my name there, with the Finished mark in. Lol.
Talk soon my freind, 
Bob M & the crew.
 
 
 

So Ive started the foam bow wave which I will build up more. Whilst it’s been drying I’ve starred on the decks adding the fittings 

Hi Rob -
 
I think it was you who gave me the idea for using the bigger drill bit.  I couldn't remember where I saw it or the specific size.  I'll experiment with some other sizes, but am already really happy with the improvement with the size I am using.
 
I made a jig for cutting the microtube:

The horizontal slot is a few thousandths wider than the .5 mm microtube so it can roll while I am cutting with the scalpel.  The scalpel fits in the vertical slot.  The brass pin is 4mm from the scalpel cut.  This gets me equal sized 4 mm tubes (I had a hard time getting them the same size when I was rolling them on the mat), is quick, and keeps the tube from flying away at the end of the cut.  I think because the boxwood is a firmer backing than the mat, it gives me a little better cut.  I don't have to do a ton of clean up, but the small amount makes a big difference in threading the line.
 
I was planning to leave the sharp demarcation between the green insignia field and bordering camouflage.  I don't have a good photo of the original airplane, but the Ronny Barr drawing shows it sharp.  My best guess is that the field was painted over the camouflage, likely with a brush, so a sharp line feels right.  The colors are awful bright which does give more contrast than it probably should have.  I'm open to suggestions.  I have so many things on this model that I'd like to cover over that I've given some thought to trying to weather it, although that's not something I usually do.
 
Dave

Great work, Dave. Your rigging came out beautifully. I recommended using a 0,5 mm drill bit for getting rid of the burr and cutting a slight cone into the ends of the turnbuckle tubes for better fiddling in the monofilament especially for the second time. 
I also recommend to cut the micro tubes with a sharp blade rolling them onto a cutting mat. This produces a far cleaner cut, than sawing.
Do you plan to blend the color border around the side fuselage Balkenkreuz and Bavarian lion a bit more?

Cheers Rob

Ha ha! Thanks for providing evidence of my age-related memory loss! 😉

New member posting a build that I did many yrs ago when I had hands that didn't shake.. 1/72 Yokosuka B4Y1 "Jean"  cardmodel that I did as test build for the designer! If I screwed up in posting please delete!!

OC, you need to add some details to your post: prices, payment methods, shipping options.

Yep, it's true.  Congrats, pppilot, on your new saw.  I've had my new Byrnes saw since August.  Ordered it on 8/5, received it on 8/13.  Donna has been awesome in getting Byrnes Model Machines back to operational.  Donna told me that Mike was a protege of Jim's and has helped her tremendously in that effort.

Byrnes is back in production. I just received a brand new new production saw on Jan 25, 2025, ten days after placing the order. The website is not working, the email is sporadic, but a phone call puts you in touch with a very nice lady who will take your order and process it quickly. Apparently they have found someone to produce the tools and are making them rather quickly. mine is very nice and is of great quality-just like the "old" ones. Note the date on the packing slip.

Thank you to everyone for the kind comments, for the likes and for your generous support.
 
 
  Lula finally has her wheel. The only way I could think of to attach the bucket planks was to CA Midwest Products 1/32 x 1/32 inch basswood strips to both sides of each spoke of the yacht's wheel.
 
 When I built Lula's hull I raised the stern too much. The bucket planks don't go below the water deep enough.
 
 
 I couldn't move the wheel any more forward than where it sits because of the clearance necessary for the rudder post. As is, the clearance is less than a tenth of an inch. 
 
 Note, I repainted the coal bin roof white. I have no clue why I painted it black in the first place? Nothing else is painted black except the trim around the engine room and pilothouse. 

 
 The cylinder timbers are stubby due to the engine shed length. The cylinder will fit okay but the rest is going to be a tad squashed and I can't shorten the pitman arms. Alas, it is what it is.  Valuable lessons learned should I have the opportunity to make another sternwheeler. 

 

 
 Now that the wheel is completed the pace should pick up a bit.  

 
 Thank you for following along. 
 
   Keith

Turned out better than I expected. Parts arrived from MFH in Japan yesterday. Amazing customer service.

I started the deck planking. WOW, that is not easy, despite all the planks being pre-cut by CAF Model. As a matter of fact, I would have preferred at times, that it was not pre-cut....
 

 
This is how it looks out of the kit. You have two symmetrical sheets, including the entire planking of the main deck. If you think you can slap this massive piece on the deck and call it over, you are totally mislead. In fact, it becomes a very complex puzzle that needs to be addressed with respect and patience.
 

 
It is important to keep all the planks in the proper location and order, if you want to match the defined curves.
 

 
I started by the center as most people do and I am developing symmetrically as much as possible. Once the front center is done, I will try to position the long curvy planks that will also drive the stern planking. Measure ten times, and cut once as they say....
 

 
At this stage, I can place the long curvy plank (on both sides) that will also locate and allow me to plank the stern correctly. Note that the plank are made with Maple wood of 1.8 mm thick. That stuff is hard, stiff and really hard to cut. I wish they went with 1.2 mm or something of that kind. For sure, with such thickness, you can sand and polish the deck a lot. The laser charring provides a nice separation and caulking illusion between the planks.
 
Each plank is detached, sanded a little bit and glued separately.
 

 

 

 
I will try to use a pencil to correct the lack of caulking where the laser did not cut. Tree nailing? Hell no! I will just simulate with a pick and some pencil graphite as I did near the center of the deck.
 
Overall, not easy and almost as hard as planking the real ship. 1.8 mm x 48 ... that is almost 4 inches thick planks in real life.
 
Yves

Okay so I for some reason got stuck on that the knot should be at the top thinking that the top edge was the one pointing inward to the dowel. So now the first blocks have been added.   Still cant find the 5mm triple block 🤔

I've added landing gear and rigging.  I can't remember where on this site I read about using a .35 mm drill to clean the ends of the microtubing after passing a .3 mm drill through it, but I am very grateful to whoever suggested it.  It turned threading the fishing line through the tube from almost impossible to just a little bit tedious.  I also added the other pieces to the bottom of the plane.  After knocking the upper wing loose a few times, the repetitive reattachment of the struts led to it being pretty crooked.  I was able to break the glue joints where the struts met the fuselage and realign them.  I'm hoping with a little touch up and clear flat the areas where they were reattached and the decals were disturbed won't be too distracting.  The build has had a series of frustrations, but I'm glad I've kept working on it.  It's beginning to look like an airplane and the color and camouflage overall effect is pretty good.

It got up above freezing today and my basement painting area was warm enough to prime the BR86. I used Vallejo German Panzer Grey as the primer.
 

I finished the woodwork on the mast.  Everything is square and lines up as it should.  The further I get into this project the more I am compulsively measuring, test fitting, etc.  It really does prevent any nasty surprises down the road.  I made the mast tree so that all the parts would fit with light press fitting, so the tolerances are tight enough to assemble it without the need for glue.  This made it easier to test fit on the mast.  I did use glue for the final assembly.  The cheeks were a bit tricky.  Being new to this ship building gig, I wasn't quite sure how all the shapes are accomplished.  I have David Antscherl's book The Fully Framed Model - Rigging a Sixth Rate Sloop of 1767-1780 - Volume IV which has some clear photos of what material to take off the mast.  Though I see a couple of areas in my photos below that need some touch up, overall I'm happy withe the way the mast turned out.
 
Erik

You're doing a great job with that rigging Bob, coming along very nicely.  The supervisors must be happy?
 
My biggest issue with tools is that 'I am a neat freak' and I store everything away as soon as I finish with it, often forgetting just where .  It sometimes takes me longer to find 'that' tool than doing the job.
 
cheers
 
Pat

I'm watching you! LOL!!
Good work, Bob. 
Funny about forgetting that you owned a tool...happened to me last week:  That jeweller's vice I had came in real handy after suffering for two days shaping small parts.  
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

After a good indigestion of deck beams, I have finally completed this stage of the assembly: 
 

 

 
The piece provided in the kit for the stern is way too thick and I have replaced it with a few scraps. I am still missing a couple of small pieces.
 

 

 
Close to 58 deck beams.....sighs!! The variations in colors comes from the fact that the beams are not made with exactly the same wood, and are cut on different plates. Not a big deal, since this will all be covered.
 

 

 
I am not cutting the central support quite yet. We will see when some additional deck beams will be installed.
 
Last picture of the inside....The camera won't fit anymore. You can see a mistake I made by positioning the main support for the deck beams, a couple of millimeters too low. I had to use small shims to compensate in the rear and avoid too much tensions on the beams. Everywhere else was perfect. I just hope that the beams do not swing back up as it would destroy the planking. I have used a good amount of CA glue to secure everything and I am crossing my fingers. With the shims, the tension on the beams is very small.
 

 
The inside of the hull is really dirty. I need to perform a good vacuuming and blowing of the dust. 
 
A few more pictures about some details: Ready to go down the monkey ladder? 
 

 

 
At this point, technically I "could" remove the assembly from the cradle. The problem is very simple: it will never go back into it.
Therefore, I am going to keep it inside a little bit longer, for the planking and the construction of the bulwarks. Everything is cozy right now and this cradle is very convenient to move around the model without much risks of breaking anything. The cradle gives me the perfect position of the bulwarks supports, which is a big plus. Extraction postponed for a few more weeks !!!
 
Yves

So as part of the great lie (the can’t on the boat) which fits into the narrative of the story (yes, there will be a story and hopefully a Dauchund ) I want it to look ok like the is suddenly turning in and stopping so I will now sart building up a bow wave 

Glowing slide and a dryfit. Now set on the base. Waves and wake next