Ryland Craze

Empennage is done. I can't give this kit high marks for number and quality of diagrams, not for sufficiency of internal structure. I had to muddle through the former and scratch-build some of the latter, but it turned out okay, I think.
 

 

 

Thank you Chuck, it was the elegant sheer that attracted me to the model. Overall it is a thing of beauty.
 
Post 20
In continuation.

4753
The re-made bow Breasthook/knee has been glued into place, I think I’ve got a close fit.

4754
I have continued to clean up the woodwork prior to applying a coat of w-o-p.
 
With w-o-p applied to the frames and inner boarding it is time to consider paint.
As with the Queen Anne Barge I will be using Vallejo acrylics.

3434(1)
For that build I used Flat Red for the Barge paintwork.
The uniforms for the Royal Company of Watermen were of a brighter hue.
 

4837
Before I committed to the paint shade I compared the likely Vallejo options.
I think Flat Red (top option) still has the edge so I’ll stick with that.

4848
A first coat of thinned paint is applied, the first of several, and a first opportunity for the paint to reveal where areas need attention.

4842

4846
On with the show.
 
B.E.
27/05/2024
 

I wired up some LED's with 0,03 mm coated wire and tested for half an houher to be sure the wires did not get hot.

 
Untill next update, enjoy modelling.

Hey Robb, yeah I was concerned about that. I made sure it was a pretty loose fit before paint. Fingers crossed!🤞 

Brush painting, I believe, is a skill that is developed over time through trial and error.  In my experience the key to a good brushed finish is to apply several thin coats of paint to let the paint level out between applications.  A good quality brush, such as an artist's brush also contributes to success.  If the paint applied is too thick, it won't level out properly.  Are you using acrylics?  I've read that some modelers use actual artists' acrylics from the tube because the pigment is ground finer.  I've had good luck brushing Tamiya acrylics thinned with 91% isopropyl alcohol.  Your pram is coming along nicely.  Don't sweat the mistakes.  They are inevitable and an opportunity to learn what does and does not work.  
 
Stay the course and enjoy the journey.  Sometimes I have to remind myself that we build models for enjoyment.  Carry on!  Keep up the good work.
 
 

Close-up photography is the enemy of being satisfied with a job well done -- it highlights a wealth of tiny mistakes that no one will notice at normal viewing distances. I have to remind myself of this fact all the time.

Thanks guys, topic now moved.

Is there some kind of typo here or some kind of humor? ❔
 

 

 
 

Considering earlier discussion it should easily fall within 1501-1750.

There was a French 1st rate Le Fulminant built at Rochefort Dockyard 1691.
 
B.E.
 
 

So now all those detail pieces are painted and mounted.  Pictures below are five of the area around the large superstructure stern turret, and five of the area around the bow turret.  There are two more large turrets aft and fore of these respectively, yet to be built.
 
The little winders are finished with thread to represent rope.  On the sides you will also see paravanes.  I was not aware that large ships like the Bismarck had paravanes to do their own minesweeping, but apparently so.
 
Regards,
David

Thanks for the warm welcome everybody!

Thanks Ab, I've got something to look for now!

As to your second question:
In 2000 I published a book called 'De schepen van Abel Tasman' at Verloren Publishers (www.Verloren.nl), both in Dutch and in German and English especially for model builders. The Dutch version was sold out long ago, but probably you can get it second hands somewhere. A lot of what you need can be found in the book.

Thanks for the compliment Marcel.
I sent you a PM with the Dutch version. Too big to post here.
Good luck.
Ab

Post 4
The launch is completed.
 
The only modification to the provided kit is a replacement for the rudder.
I have also added the following:-
Lifting rings to the keelson.
A cap square for the mast
A brass etch grapnel from the Indy kit.
A turning bar to the windlass.
I have also utilised the boat chocks from the Indy kit to support the hull.
This has been an enjoyable little project and I am pleased with the result.

2284a

2287a

2290a

2292a

2296a

4828
Below is a comparison with the wooden 24’ Launch I made for Sphinx.

2283a

2273a

2279a
Both versions in my opinion look good and I think they represent the best available options at this scale.
 
The Resin/wood combo is a good match and almost fools the eye into thinking the whole is a wooden construction.
For those who may prefer to avoid the time and frustrations that can arise building the wooden versions, they are an excellent choice.
 
The wood versions have a slight edge for build match with the Main ship medium, and perhaps give a greater satisfaction in successfully completing these tricky little kits.
 
I don’t think I would mix resin and wood boats on the same build, but I am happy to consider either to enhance the ship kits.
 
You pays your money and takes your choice.
 
 
B.E.
26/05/2024
 

I'm seeing the dents. I’m getting most of them out. I’m able to bend the planks well with water. They hold there shape well, it’s the curve of the frame I’m struggling with. 13-1 it’s laying down nice so far. I’ve tried the heat, I can’t get the plank to stay bent/shaped. I’m struggling with the pieces staying springy. I can get some areas great and others spring up. I’m getting better with each plank. Maybe I’m not getting the plank hot enough. With the water I can break the structure of the wood and can’t feel it go limp. Kinda like a wet noodle. It becomes very ply able. Then I use heat to set the curve. I’m not able to reproduce your results with heat only, my lack of skill for sure. 
 

Pre-bending with heat and even wetting down the plank a bit using a hair dryer is the better way to go.  Force bending it dry makes it so much tougher to get a nice fit.   You will also get lots of dents and imperfections with all of those pins.   
 

The sides of the middle part of the wooden deck were finished by adding the Pontos brass strips and a fine wooden strip. The brass strips were layed between the wood veneer, and not on it. Thus no unevenness was created .  The shute covers were also glued in their place with PVA-glue.
 

 
Untill next update, enjoy modelling.

Thanks for the kind words and likes.  When photographing a couple weeks of work it doesn't really look like I made much progress!  I attached the rest of the cleats to the bulwarks, drilled all the holes for the cannon eyebolts, formed the 60 or so eyebolts needed, and then made and attached the side pin rails.  When attaching the eyebolts, I only glued in the top ones, and left the lower ones off.  I made a jig out of styrene to get the holes in the bulwarks consistent.  And being a perfectionist, the forming of the eyebolts themselves wound up taking some time.
 
I had a question regarding the inboard bulwark ladders for you Cheerful builders.  The instructions say, "You will find the template on the plans to cut the sides for the ladder.  But just to make life easier, print the next page as all of the elements are provided".  None of the 3 plan sheets have a template for the sides of the ladder.  And I'm not sure what the print the next page reference means.  There are no plans for the ladders in the written instructions either.  Does anyone happen to have a plan that shows the side shape of the ladder?  I guess I can make a good guess based on photos of the ladder pieces shown in Chuck's instructions, but it would be a little easier if I had a template to reference/print.
 
While still working on the Cheerful almost daily, my progress has slowed down a fair amount.  With the warmer weather and longer days, there's lots to do outside, so the path forward on the build will be a bit slower while I enjoy the summer.
 
Erik

That is a cant frame....its in chapter two....
 
Its cant frame #12 which is a half frame under the aft gunport.  You need to finish all the other square frames first.  The last square frame is 12F.
 
Chuck

Hi Shawn,
 
They seem to be scattered amongst several billets:

To scupper or not to scupper.
 
Most contemporary models do not show the scuppers.   In fact the contemporary model of Speedwell doesnt show the scuppers. I didnt add the scuppers on my Winnie build which was typical.  But I am going to show them on my speedwell.   Nothing fancy.   These arent too crazy to do.   Not like the hawse holes will be.  But you do have to be careful.  You need to carefully measure them inboard and outboard so they look like they line up.  You can actually use the deck planking templates because I have marked the inboard locations for all of the scuppers.
 
When I drill my scuppers I dont even try to drill them all the way through.   That adds unnecessary difficulty.   I drill shallow holes only about 1/16" deep or slightly more.   Inboard, I start with a small pilot hole with a small drill bit.   Then in this case, I used a #47 drill bit afterwards to make them larger.   Finally I used a round file to smooth out the hole’s insides.   I lightly sanded the inboard bulwarks over the scuppers with some 400 grit sandpaper to smooth out any fraying.  This will require some paint touch-up later when they are all done.  The scupper holes were made flush with the deck level or just a hair above.
 
I prefer to use a soft pencil to darken the inside of the holes.  I made sure to cover the entire inside surface of the scuppers including the back of the hole.   Then I touch up the red bulwark paint.  On this model I drilled the scuppers before I added the waterway.  I just wanted to try something new.  It worked out really well for me.  No chipping or fraying of the water way at all.  You can do it whichever way is more comfortable for you.
 
The picture below shows the holes drilled and darkened with the pencil.   They are nice and dark.  I touched up the red paint as well on the bulwarks afterwards.  You can see the waterway strip also prepared in advance and ready to be glued into position.
 

The waterway is a 3/64" x 3/64" strip of cedar.  I sanded one of the four corners of the strip down its entire length.  I used an Emory board or sanding stick.   Basically I made it triangular in profile.  Then I held it in position so I could mark the positions for the scuppers along its length.  I really tried to get these exactly where they should be located.  I used a round mini file to make the half round openings along the length of the waterway where the scuppers were marked out.  Once in position this really looked good.   I used the same soft pencil to darken the round notches I made along the waterway as well.   Below you can see how the scuppers inboard turned out.  I made the waterway in two pieces for the gun deck rather than use one long strip that spanned across the whole length.
 

I also prepared the waterway for the poop deck, port and starboard.   This was easy...no scuppers, LOL.   Just make the strip triangular.  Dont worry about trying to make it concave or anything fancy.   
 
Here is a photo.
 

Finally to the outboard side.  No difference here really.   I used those outboard templates we used way back when....remember those.   If you have to shift the template fore and aft a bit to line them up with the inboard scuppers you made on the opposite side of the deck/hull its no big deal.   But this template will give you a really good start and can be rested atop the wales.
 

 
I drilled with a small drill bit first and again made the holes larger using the #47 bit.   I cleaned them up a bit and darkened them with a soft pencil.  Once again...no need to drill all the way through and hope you meet the same scupper hole you drilled on the inboard side.  Fake it ...till you make it .....I always say.   I drilled part way through once again.   Make sure you really darken them inside the holes nicely and completely.
 

Dont add the waterway on the fcastle deck yet.   I think it best to drill the hawse holes first.   I will be doing that next me thinks.
 

So I replaced the floorboard cleats and replaced them with more appropriate sized wood. I had to trim down the closest I could find at the hobby store.
 
Worked on the dagger board. Installed the thwarts. Those took a lot of trimming to get them to fit well.
 

 

 
 
Started on painting. Trying to really improve this step of my process. So I am open to any help you can offer. I have a couple of other threads going about that...
 

 
Filled a few ugly spots and such. I think this was just the first coat.
 
Then started working on the inside. That was a chore getting into all the nooks and crannies, but I enjoy painting in general. It's very zen for me.
 

 
You can still see many brush marks and glue marks. I'm not sure why I think those will just go away....
 
Here's a closeup of the edge. Is this finish good or at full scale would it look like a 5 year old, a bucket of paint, and a rag? The shine on the bottom corner of the rowlock is reflection.
 

 
Thanks again for all the kind words!

Chris

There was an error marking them. The longer ones should be 10A.