Ryland Craze

Thank you, Len . This one's taken me so long that I wonder if I'll be around to finish it, too!
 
The paints for the boats were as follows:
 
(Vallejo)
 
White spray primer
 
121 - Yellow ochre
004 - Off-White
169 - Black
 
For the wood simulation:
147 - Leather Brown (could be any shade shade of brown, to be honest)
183 - Wood grain (Transp) (This is the paint that makes the difference)
204 - Brown glaze - Helps give the 'wood' a 'heavier' and more natural appearance.
 
Black glaze is also useful to add an extra dimension to some of the black painted parts - especially cannon barrels and belfry.
 
I must remember to add the fore topsail brace rope to the belaying pins on the skid beams before adding the boats permanently..
 
 
 
For wood colours, no special techniques were used, just trial and error - and the above were what seemed to be the best combination for scale appearance

A lot more work over the last week.  Spiling and planking is completed.  The sternpost was installed and planks faired.  Now for the insides.  The spacers prevent the bulkheads from being snapped-off so they must be removed.  I drilled a series of holes in the spacers so the isopropyl alcohol could penetrate better.  a couple of applications and they slid right out.  I also drilled the top of the bulkhead to speed the filing of the tabs.  I used a triangular file since it seemed to work faster.  A couple of the frames needed a glue touch-up, but nothing serious.  Working from the middle to the ends, I filed the tabs and snapped the bulkheads out.  The fairing was delicate.  I used a rotary head to take down the frames near the wales and then a cut-off wheel to pare down the keelson.  I've rough sanded (120 grit) and will check thickness before going further.  I think a coat of pre-sanding conditioner is due.  The joints between planks and the treenail heads will be wood putty (see my Echo Section post regarding treenails).  I've got to prevent the putty from staining the wood planks so I may have to get a light coat of poly applied.  Sanding down the tops of the frames will be a challenge.  Any suggestions on how to do that without snapping the little bones?
Maury

OK, I got back this morning from a few days away. I completed the boats before I went and here's the results (I made a mistake of the 34' launch - the stern goes too high because I designed the stern board with the top strake incorporated into it, but because I'm an idiot, I had forgotten this when it came to planking. I have since re-designed the stern board so it's more obvious where the upper hull planking should go - but I simply haven't the time to rectify it..)
 

 

 
The Vallejo paints really seemed to work well in hiding the fact that these parts are photo etched brass:
 

 

 
I know the rudders would not be hung in place on the stowed boats (and impossible for the 18' cutter), but I included them anyway:
 

 
Cutter was 'clinkered':
 

 
All four boats done:
 


 
And dry fitted in place:
 




 
With hindsight, I should have been a little more careful regarding the placement of the stanchions near the boats, they are a little too close to the edge, so the boats are bunched up a little more than they should be...
 
ETA - I did think about adding another two cutters, but there seems to be conflicting info on these, plus they are clinker planked, too...

Made a little bit of progress.
I was really unhappy with that top rail last I posted an update...so I tore it off, made a new one, and did a better job of keeping the edges sharper with this soft basswood. Made it much easier to keep the white on the "sides" rather than floating up to surround the red paint. Then I installed my floorboards and platforms. i wanted a richer color, so I stained them with minwax red mahogany.
 

 
scribed, then stained and installed the risers. and as you can see the clamps dented the soft basswood, so had to sand and touch up paint again

carved and sanded the front wall of the "foot locker"

Then scribed and installed my thwarts

 
Now I am working on the larger thwart, and doing the metal work on it. Should have it installed tomorrow.

I'm about at the point where I will have to make a decision of where to place the pedestals on the hull.  I ask the question in another post at MSW and received the rough answer at 1/3 the hull length.  I gave it a look and I wasn't happy, it looked out of proportion, the forward pedestal looked to me as if it was too far forward.  I decided to move the pedestal further aft about to the 8 3/4" point, this move in my estimation gives the bow a longer more graceful look.  Please feel free to give me your thoughts on the subject.     
 

 
Cheers.
Tim

Thanks Chuck and David. Now that the longboat is finished I can get back to my FLY
 

 

 

Chuck, I hope the Chicago contingent will catch up with you guys soon.  I know of two complete models.  Maybe the fleet can form an armada at the NRG Conference in October.

It's time I got around to working on my 18th Century Longboat.  I'm about six months behind my fellow Tri-Club Members.  (I'm a member of the Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago.)  My excuse? I was finishing up Scottish Maid.  This was my first model -- since I was a teenager, anyway -- and it took me eight years to finish.
 
Granted, my wife and I had two kids during that eight years and there were several years when nothing got done, but still -- start to finish -- eight years.
 
I think it turned out really well, though.  I entered it in the 37th Annual Model Ships and Boats Contest and Display.  On May 18th, it was awarded a Gold Award and I got received the Best Novice Builder Award.  I'm still walking on air.  It was the culmination of a lot of work.  The ship was judged by people who really know what they're looking at and the contest was held in Manitowoc, Wisconsin.  I grew up near there, in Green Bay.  It was like being recognized by the people of my native land.  (For those who don't know, life in Wisconsin, is very different from life in Illinois, where I live now.  I live near Chicago, a city of 2.6 million, about 8 million in the metro area.  Green Bay, when I was growing up, had a population of 47,000.  There is no metro area ... unless cow pastures count.)
 
Anyway, while others in the Tri-Club were making progress on their longboats, I was toiling away on Scottish Maid.
 
 

Okay, Okay...I do agree, the paint has some aesthetic value lol.
 
It has very kindly, thoughtfully, and tactfully  been brought to my attention, that my waterline is incorrect. The waterline is, as most of you know, supposed to be a straight horizontal line, and as you can see mine is not. I thank the person who took the time to point out my error to me, as that is exactly what I hope for and expect from the other builders here.
 
I did try to make a waterline marker...and every time I marked it out, the stupid pencil still insisted on following the lines (curves) of the hull rather than staying perfectly horizontal.
Well, 3 days...40 thin coats of paint with sanding between each layer....she is going to have to stay as she is
 
I honestly think, my subconscious got involved here. Personally, when I look at the historically accurate models and replicas, my eyes are drawn to that painted water line, and my mind hates it because the straight line goes against the lines of the hull. it seems to insult my sense of flow, and design. Pretty much why I didn't want to paint it in the first place. So I am betting that as much as my logical mind was trying to create a perfectly horizontal waterline...the more creative and aesthetically driven parts of my brain were rebelling and where the line ended up was a kind of compromise between the two.
 
I can live with it, and when I look at her, I see the sweeping lines I prefer, so...to everyone here, I apologize if my feminine side causes consternation. But as I am a girl...I like it!!  And I will live with it.

I have completed my longboat. The rigging went quickly following the kit instructions. I did however expand the number of blocks and rigging sizes to try and give more contrast to the different sizes. I used Warner Woods blocks in 3 sizes-- 2.5, 3 and 3.5 mm. I used DMC cotton line dyed with alcohol based stains for the rigging line.  Line sizes were .008, .010, .012, .015 and .021 inch.
 

 
 
The base is made of curly maple with cheery trim. The dust cover was purchased at a custom plastic house. Our group purchased 8 of them to keep the cost down. It is 1/8 inch thick plexiglass.
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
I enjoyed building this model and look forward to doing more of Chuck P's excellently designed kits.
 
Mike

Finishing the Rigging:  I finally had a Sunday evening free to work on a boat!  I was able to complete the fore and back stays, to the point that they just need to be finished by trimming the lines, and adding rope coils.  First I have to say, that I enjoyed this kit immensely.  I still have a little ways to go, but this little boat is really a wonderful project to work on.  I highly recommend it.
 
I am still really out of my element when it comes to rigging, so I do not have a whole lot to say as to the process, other than I followed Chuck's directions pretty closely.  Everything came out pretty smooth.  I think my favorite part was making the little hooks needed for the running back stays and the fore stay sails' running gear.
 
At this point I still have to trim off the ends of the rigging, I ran all of the lines pretty long so that I could finish each line easily.  Right now I have about a half dozen lines hanging from the boat, looking a little less than ship shape.  The next step for me is figuring out a good process for making rope coils, and finishing details such as the oars, anchor and windlass bars.  Not to mention some paint touch up from the handling process.
 

 

 

 

 

 

I have progressed a little with the deck planking.  This is 2" thick, in contrast with the king plank which is 3" thick.  There is a mild taper in the planks towards the bow and (more noticeably) the stern.  Not all of the planks are the same width at midships.  In particular, the planks between the outboard edge of the hatchways and the king plank are narrower.  Caulking is represented by pencil.  The planking extends all the way to the beam edges for the scuttles but is recessed 5" for the hatchways to accommodate the hatch covers.
 
The riding bitts are temporarily installed to allow the deck planking to abut the timber.  At this point I decided to remove the bit and discovered that it would not come out.  The bitt is notched to fit into the fore platform and lower deck beam.  Not a problem when the framing is left exposed; big problem when the deck planking has been installed.  The solution was to remove the deck planking around the bitt and taper the fore edge down towards the lower platform, rather than having a notch for the lower deck beam.  The starboard bitt will be left with the notch intact.
 

 

 

Both strakes of the upper deck clamps are in place.  I started with the upper stake which is 4" thick.  It tapers down to 3" where it intersects the lower strake.  In the pictures that has not been done yet except at the stemson to better highlight the top and butt planking.  There in an airspace below the lower strake which stops at the aft end of the upper deck.  For this reason the aftmost lower plank is 2" wider than the others.  The planks are all treenailed but they are decorative only.  In the pictures the wood looks mottled because I wet it down to try and highlight the treenails and the top and butt planking.
 
I am still trying to decide whether I will install the spirketting or treat it like I have the footwaling and leave it off.  I am leaning towards leaving it off to allow more light to enter the hull.  That decision will be made after the deck planking has been installed.  I will be planking the port side, leaving the starboard side open except for (possibly) the waterway.
 

 

 

 

 

Mark and Pat, thanks for looking in.
 
The mast partner has been installed and now it is time to install the upper deck clamps.  There are four strakes and an air space between the top of the lower deck and the upper deck beams.  The first task was to measure the top of the beams on the draughts and transfer this to the Mylar.  The sheer is less pronounced fore and aft than shown on the Mylar.  This height was then marked on the inside of the hull and a strip of tape was placed to ensure a smooth run for this line and also make sure that the line is parallel to the gun port sills.  The second photo shows the model laid on its side in order to show the run of the clamp to the stemson.  The beams are 7" in height and let into the clamp 1".  Therefore I measured down 6" to find the height of the top of the clamp.  This line was marked in pencil. 
 

 

 

 

I just 'tried' to take a few pics of the quarterdeck/poop area, to show it before the new bulkheads arrive, but they didn't come out too well. If you wanted yo, you could leave out the bulkheads and have the deck 'cleared for action', as the deck (all the decks, in fact) extend right to the end of the stern - no hacking and slashing required...
 





 
Seems like I go out of the way to hide the fact that the hull is wood....

 
Gun port lids are as to scale as they can be. Too often I see way too thick lids in kits, usually at least 2mm thick! If you look at this picture I taken of the real thing, they are not that thick:

 
Also note the lack of sill on the lower inside edges of the gun port openings.

Here are some shots of the stern. Obviously, I have not trimmed planks down to the outside edge of the lower lower counter yet. I welcome any comments on the shape of the stern filler pieces. I am not sure I shaped them correctly  . In hindsight, it would have been better to carve blocks. It would take longer but would be easier for me to visualize. I also need to adjust the transom horizontal pieces again. I seem to struggle even though I have used a pattern.
Looking forward to more posting. Thanks to Anja and Chuck for helping this computer challenged Luddite figure out how to set up the log. Also thanks to Russ and others who encouraged me too start the log
Best
Jaxboat 

I sometimes think the too easy "entry level" kits actually discourage builders. My first build was a solid-hull America's cup racer. I was able to do it with little more than a linolium knife and the smallest bits for my hand drill. It came out OK, but I had no real sense of accomplishment and wondered why I'd spent $50 on a cheap wooden kit..
A couple of years later I saw a library display on modeling with Frank Mastini's book prominently displayed. I picked up the book, read all about plank on bulkhead kits and soon had an itching to build another ship kit.
I read the Mastini book, which actually gives pretty good advice on picking a first kit. Based on his book, I chose the Constructo Enterprise, a fairly straight-foward schooner that's double-planked (which I agree with Mastini is a must for any first kit), but one that had lots of guns (something the little boy in me still demands).
Now I in no way, shape and form have any wood-working skills. And I was really intimidated when Christmas morning rolled around and my wife presented me with what I told friends was basically "a box of sticks."
But following the Mastini book (the Constructo instructions are terrible, although the ship plans are good) I was able to build a ship model that I was really proud of.
When my father-in-law (who is a marvelous woodworker) saw it and began talking that he'd like to try a kit, I went to Mastini and chose the Bluenose for him. I gave him that, some basic tools and a copy of Mastini for Christmas one year and now he has one ship under his belt and is working on a second.
So I guess what I am saying is that if I were to recommend an "entry level" kit, it would be something plank on frame that is double planked, relatively inexpensive and is either single- or double-masted. I would also insist that the new hobbyist get themselves a copy of Mastini, because I think good instructions and explanations of the concepts behind shipbuilding are key to a successful build.
I think what happens too often is that folks buy kits and either screw up very early due to things like fairing the frames being left out of the instructions, or get discouraged by bad instructions and give up.
If I had to do it over again, I'd probably build the MS Armed Virginia Sloop or Fair American as a first kit. I can't recommend the NIagara or Pride of Baltimore, as they seem to be single-plank on bulkhead, and I think the double plank is really a must for a first kit.But I do think Model Shipways instructions are so clear and do a good job of laying out the basic concepts of building that even their intermediate kits could easily be built by a beginner.

I've finished rigging the anchors, I went with having them lashed since I'm planning on having her under sail.
I was ready to pull my hair out rigging the bouys...  that was a very fiddly task, and causes me to worry somewhat about the rigging process.
The cannons are loosly placed, next is to rig the tackle and bond them in place.
I need to build my block tumbler to help out with all the cannon tackle blocks, I purchased a set of 1/8" blocks to use instead of the 5/32" ones.
I want to finish the bowsprit, I've been looking for a pine stain that is waterbase, and may try a couple different paints that are close in color.

Joining the build here. I have been delaying my start as I was afraid of the rabbet. I have never needed to worry about this before but it is time for the plunge.



 
Took the first move and beveled the edge as the instructions say...not without first sending a PM to Chuck for some guidance. Luckily he is a nice guy and answered my stupid questions.
 


 
Gave it a light sanding to remove any grooves from the chisel

 
I then treated the pieces with wood conditioner. I like the little bit of color the conditioner brings out as compared to an unconditioned piece.

 
I also used 320 grit paper to remove the burn marks from all the bulkheads and have conditioned them as well. I don't plan to stain my build, I really like the color of the natural wood, but I do like what the conditioner does to the wood, so I plan to continue using it on the other pieces as well.

 
Now...time to add glue to the mix....

Keith Julier is my friend and we still keep in contact - although I have heard nothing since Christmas. He is a great guy, and is getting on a bit now and unfortunately, cannot really model any longer. It was his review of Euro Model's Royal William that inspired me to try the Sovereign of the Seas - and before that, it was his reviews that got me started with wooden ship kits - it is fair to say that Keith has been my biggest inspiration, and the nicest man you are ever likely to meet.
 
@Mike Draper - Bellona was used as a 'test bed' for new design techniques, of which Victory is the result. Bellona will certainly become a kit, but I do need to implement substantial re designs after the further lessons learned from Victory. Bellona will be like HMS Fly on super-steroids!

Here are some photos of the Freezer Paper in use.  
 
First, I cut out some freezer paper in 8x11.5 sheets, and flattened them by wrapping them around a piece of pvc a few times.  When the curl wasn't so pronounced I loaded it into the printer and then copied part of a plan sheet (Mayflower by Chuck, purchased from Model Expo) and printed it to the freezer paper.
 

 
Then I cut out the bulkheads I was interested in, positioned them on a sheet of 1/32 plywood, and laid a medium-hot iron on top of them for about ten seconds - done.  I can now cut out the bulkheads on my scroll saw.  The freezer paper is adhered well enough that the saw doesn't pull it off the wood.
 

 
Hope this helps.
 
Frank
 

No building for me today. A quiet day. I was somewhat surprised and gladdened  by the number of flags flying on our street, not only today but all weekend. Not only known "American" homes but Immigrant homes as well. 
Thanks you Vets, each and every one of you.
Sam

Hi Mike,
 
Of course! First planking is 1.5x6mm limewood and second is 1x5 walnut:
 



 
Second planking:


 
Followed by wales:



 
And while the hull is free from clutter:


 
Chris

Hi,
 
I am sorry it took so long to re-register - but I have been very busy - plus my internet has been intermittent.
 
Whilst developing and building the Victory prototype, I have made many changes 'on the fly' - sometimes for realism/previous part not quite right to adding more detail - especially the stern windows.
 
I have just completed the boat designs, anchors (100mm long!) and made four new cannon barrel masters - here are some pics:
 

 
Copper plates laid in two distinct bands:
 

 
Rudder is very easy to copper.....:
 

 
Main Channel:
 

 

 

 

 

 
Checking the cannon masters:
 

 
As for release dates for kits, I am sorry, I cannot help. I have as much idea as you, as I only design and develop the kits, and have nothing to do with release strategy....
 
 
Chris

Wow. You guys are much too kind. I really enjoyed reliving the build through the reposting and I'm delighted that others got some enjoyment as well.
 
I have no other photos, Christian.
 
Brian, when has any modeler not believed that they could have done better.
 
Bob