Ryland Craze

Here's the battery-powered little drill I've used a lot building model ships the past 10 years.  It turns the drill bit slowly, so you can accurately position it and hold it there while drilling.  It's great for drilling little holes to pin things and for enlarging holes in little blocks.  It comes in handy all the time.  The xacto and tweezer show you about how big it is.   Pretty sure I've recommended this before, but it's worth repeating.

Thank you all! Yes, acrylic so luckily the 'easiest' option. I'll try some of the solvents mentioned and soaking.
 
I have that brush soap and it's great, it just didn't save the deep stuff on this one (I think I got it after a few paintings). I'll check out some brass brushes to help down the road.

My son is a professional painter, when he cleans his brushes he also uses a wire brush to get the paint out of the bristles, brush from the handle straight towards the brush tip. Use the small brass brushes. The wire brush does not damage the bristles. You can also use Artists soap, it's like a saddle soap. See example below

 
 

Well its been over a month.  Vacation and work took their toll.  I'm trying to bring my AVS up to the Joint Clubs conference as an "in progress" so now its crunch time.  While anything beyond deck furniture won't happen in time; I don't want any basswood showing.
 
Next up is planking the cabin entryway.  Below is the kit door picture.  I tossed around how I could make the doors more aggravating to build- maybe a window in the top of each one?  maybe double raised panels?  After looking at my drawings I eventually decided a single raised panel looked better than any of my other wacky ideas.

The door frames were simple butt joints, highlighted with pencil.  If I had more time the half-lap joints I used for the companionway coaming would have been sturdier to work with.  But they turned out ok and were very solid once glued onto the basswood underlayment.  For anyone who noticed I deliberately made the door frames inset so they would stand out.  In reality this would have made the doors only open 90 degrees and been a pain to traverse but in this built artistic license overcomes functionality.
 
Next I test-fitted my raised panels.

The panels were challenging due to the flat reveal around the raised portion.  It took a few tries.  I scribed around the edges for a rabbit (shown below), then scribed further back for the borders of the raised portion of the panel.  Tricky work although you are essentially cutting to a line.  I don't know how I functioned before discovering my fine drafting compass.

After planking the sides and middle of the cabin entryway I made the small base trim piece.  Its fragile; I first made a "pretty close" version out of basswood (top piece), then a second try with holly.  Once I got the bottom scribed as closely as possible I used the above compass to trace the width I wanted and cut it out.  Then I attempted not to throw the base molding out (it looked exactly like cutoff scrap).

Then I glued the top part of the door frame in, final fit my raised panels and glued them in.  I forgot to say I pre-finished the door frames and panels, and pre-drilled for the handle and hinges before the frames were glued on; much easier to do that stuff on the bench.  The handle and hinges were added with a touch of epoxy, then I used the below scheme of go-sticks and rubber bands to keep the basemolding in place while its glue dried.  Sorry I now realize that pic is a little out of focus.

Well thats progress as of now.  This week I will be making the narrow planking to cover the roof of the cabin.  And if all goes well I'll bring her to the conference for laudits and critique. 
 
thanks for reading
 
Cisco

There was a little sunshine outside and I decided to add some natural light pics of the Cobra Coupe.























Cheers Rob

Thank you for being a sponsor of Model Ship World.

Nice work.  This is going to turn out to be an impressive ship model.

Nice work.  This is going to turn out to be an impressive ship model.

Thank you for being a sponsor of Model Ship World.

Thank you for being a sponsor of Model Ship World.

Nice to see you're importing OcCre to North America. 
 
Welcome to MSW!
 

I am finally home and have the moving truck full of stuff that we are keeping from the house unloaded, Trevor. I haven't been able to get in the shipyard just yet, the CEO's list of to-do's seems to grow longer instead of shorter  Tomorrow is a rainy day here (no sudden, unwanted snowstorms for us!) so I will be bale to sit down and get on with my build. I am very much looking forward to that.

Sometimes I find the small restricted area fiddles with my mind to make it more difficult than it should be.
I also find carving on end grain to be difficult.
I find that if I take a slightly larger piece of thin stock and rubber glue that to a base piece of wood that is clamped, then pencil mark the shape, then start carving it is somewhat easier. Then I remove it from the base and take it to the table top disk sander and sand the edges to their margin lines.... but still the first one can take three attempts! But it gets easier.

I could only do 4 stars instead of eight. Just cant see the lines  to do better.

Practice , practice,  practice. 

Footropes are completed and yardarms are attached - made a jig to hang the yardarms from with alligator clips this works to help level them and
keeps them in position while the glue dries.

Remember the course??? I will be working my way down over the next few weekd

Sheaves installed 

All the shrouds and ratlines done. Next step are the back stays.
 

I'm experimenting with trying to hide seams, or at least tone them down.
 
Treated (top) vs. untreated (bottom).

 
Treated (left) vs. untreated (right).
  

Very good day today! Finished all of the planking and I'm quite happy with how it turned out.
I'm still not a fan of this planking technique and I'm ready to learn POF/POB. I'm glad I am painting this since the ends of the planks didn't turn out very good. Especially on the planks I tried to make the gain like they explained in the book. 
Somehow the planks on the stern side ended up much higher ok the stern transom than they did on the bow. I'm not sure if this is a big deal and just plan to translate the curve to where it needs to be to match the planks. 
Just realized I put the keel plank on upside down hahaha so I just drew some center lines for the skeg.
 

Welcome to Model Ship World.  You are not alone as a lot of us started out as older beginners.

The deckhouse is getting close now...
The bay window is installed...

The wheelhouse roof frame is installed...

Here is the roof roughed in to check the fit...

While paint and glue were drying I made the rest of the fiddly bits for the poop... 

Once the goosenecks and ring bolts are installed there will be some paint touch up on the hull, then finally the deckhouse gets installed! 
I am thinking good thoughts about installing the ship on the display base at that point... but I may wait...
The rudder and quadrant mechanisms can go on any time, and the structures behind the deckhouse can be built. 
After that the lifeboat platforms and davits can be built, the spare rudder and steering cables installed, and the masts stepped!
Woot! Love it when a plan comes together!
Thanks for checking in!
Bruce