slow2cool

Mike:
Like Carl said, you can't let us down.  You learn from a mistake, do the best you can do and try to do better next time.  This is what it is all about.
 
I think the deck looks pretty good now.
 
Kurt

Mike,
 
Whatever you do, you can't let us down. Build to the best of your ability, and improve. Have fun in your build, and tackle the challenges ... enjoy it !!!
 
Cheers

had a great day with the grand kids!   they enjoyed the model cars.......but they only took 1/2 hour to build.   it was Tripp's birthday on Saturday,  so we gave him his presents early.........they love legos.  we got 'em a couple of the lego put together kit things.......Jurassic park.   that took a while.....and then of course,  to play with it after      got home a bit later than expected......oh well  >shrug<
 
our son Kevin has officially moved out of the house.  he still has some clothes here,  but he can get 'em after getting organized in the new place.   just us and Gibbs........we hear an echo  { I told her to just lay some foam on the floor....it'll deaden the sound   }

Thanks Carl,
 
I have just spent some time remarking the laser lines with a no11 blade and a very sharp pointy thin I have in my armoury and, it doesn't look too bad.
 
SO, matt paint on order and I will try to paint it again knowing that if I muck it up I can always cover it !!!
 
Thanks for all the comments everyone, I will try not to let you down !

Good on you Mike. The first step is always the most difficult one.
 
Beech wood ... Personally I like the colour, and structure, you can bend it easily when steamed, I don't know about the dry heating method. It is often used in kitchens, as it doesn't splinter (cutting boards a.o.) I don't know how thin you can get it or mill it, that's another question left unanswered, but it can be finished very smooth.

Thank you very much Kurt for both the PM and your post. I have used the method you describe for locating holes etc when planking before so I understand exactly what you mean.
 
I have bitten the beginning of the bullet as you will see by sanding the whole thing down rather severely and getting rid of that red paint where it would show.
One of the reasons was the dog tooth joint, whilst it might not show much looked horrendous and I just couldn't live with it, also the horrid central bump I had at the prow. So, if nothing else the bumps have now gone. Unfortunately the process has also showed up the variation is laser marked lines and how feint they are in some parts and really strong in others.
 
It occurs to me that I don't really have too plank the whole surface, only the parts that will show and what will be inside the cabins I could then just paint matt black.
 
If I am going to paint rather than stain/varnish I must source some matt iron oxide paint. I bought satin finish without realsing.
 
Anyway contributors, look what you have made me do !   Only joking, it's all my fault!
 
Doesn't anyone know about beech wood ?
 
   

Mike:
I have attached 2 photos of my Chaperon when it was under construction.  Sorry but these are the best photos I have of the area in question but they might help.
 
If you are able to very lightly sand the paint to knock off a bit of the shine I think that you will have a pretty nice deck.  The areas of the notched plank joints are pretty well hidden once the model is finished and as suggested some bit of cargo can hide most of it, but I just went into my loft to examine the model and with the location of the joints between the back of the boilers and just ahead of the cabin I just can't see the joint at all.
 
The first photo shows the deck with the starboard cabin walls in place and the port side ready for the walls to be put in place.  The seams are directly forward of the end of the forward end (left in photo) of the cabin walls.  In the lower photo this area is shown with the main deck completely finished.  With the railings at the deck edge there just isn't much visibility of the planking seams.
 
As to the lack of plank butt joints the only areas this will be visible is the fore deck area and the aft decking by the Chaperon name.
 
It's your decision regarding planking over the deck.  As to the holes for the various posts and locating the structures I would handle these as you do the planking by notching the planks for each square hole as you fit the planks that will cover them.  I found that I had to fit each post to it's hole by either enlarging the hole with a square file or sanding the bottom end of the post.  Mark the planks as you cover any of the laser scribed locating lines.  Doing it this way would eliminate the need for a pattern.  Using think planking the trim board at the perimeter of the deck might need to be a bit wider or you might be able to use the kit provided pieces - I just don't remember how much they extended below the kit's deck.
 
I hope this helps.
 
Kurt

chborgm, sorry but I don't understand what you mean, I don't know what you mean by 'tabs'.
 
Thanks for that cathead, that's about what I thought.
 
Any ideas about beech wood anyone?

For context, nearly all of Bertrand's decking was preserved intact, and the archeology team mapped every plank. Most look to be 20-25 feet long, with a somewhat chaotic planking pattern that seems to fit the backwoods construction. Widths are pretty variable, too, again fitting the way a lot of early steamers were built. Given that Bertrand was built 30-odd years before Chaperon, I don't know how much decking methods changed in that time, I don't know much about these late steamers. I'd guess they were more standardized by the late 20th century. But that's at least some context for you.
 
At scale, 20-25' comes out to roughly 13-16cm or 5-6 inches.

I hate to make this to simple, but take some measurements, and cut off the tabs. This is what you would do on a scratch build and with many other kits with no tabs.

You sir are a gent! Yes I reckon I could get away with it but..........!
No there are no plank ends, something else I don't like about it and I have already tried scoring across the wood but it tears rather than leaving nice ends.
 
The scale of this model is 1:48 so, because I am no good at maths either, how long should scale planks be? Any ideas? I would reckon about 5 inches or 12 cms ?

The photos are very helpful. It does like nice as it is. To my eye, it's too uniform and shiny, I find that subtle variations in color and finish make a model look far more realistic than a uniform finish, even if the latter is technically more accurate. So if you keep it, I'd try to dull and vary the finish a little bit, maybe with careful application of pastels or something. Make every few planks a slightly different shade, or more weathered, or something. But unlike a sailing ship, much of the deck will end up obscured, so maybe it doesn't matter. You could focus that effort only on the bow and other areas that will remain exposed.
 
Those toothed joints between panels do stand out, but again most of that area will be covered, so I suspect that a few crates and barrels would take care of the rest.
 
Does that deck have any plank ends? From the images, it looks like just a continuous run. It's probably too late to scribe in some plank joints, but that would give it some extra nice detail and variation as well, and is something that would happen naturally if you replank it.
 
Honestly I'm torn. It would be a lot of work to replank what is a good-looking deck, and most of your work would be obscured (Chaperon has far more enclosed space than Bertrand did). I guess I'd say do it if you want the experience and the extra work and detail, but what you have would look plenty good with just a little finishing.

Ah, to be on the safe side, Mike. Make a xerox copy when finished and use that one to transfer the markings. You could use carbon paper to transfer the markings ... if that is still available

Thanks for that Carl, I had been thinking about how to make a template in case and I like your suggestion. This kit, apart from the laser marked planks has a lot of guidelines to show were other pieces go later. That is partly why I didn't dare sand the deck any harder in the first place.

What will be visible of that ugly join, both a midships as length wise, once the walls and deck frniture is fitted ... If that is acceptable to you ... the decision is yours, as it is your build, Mike.
 
If, however, you decide to plank the deck, make a template from your current one for the round and square openings. Put a piece of paper on top and with a soft pencil, 2B or higher, softly scratch over the openings. You'll see a distinct darker circumference of the opening. If you fixate it on one side you can lift the paper and look where the next opening is to be marked. You can then use the template to transfer the marked openings to the new deck.

Hey guys, here are some pictures warts and all. I would like honest opinions please as to what I should do.
 
 

One last bit of similar “detailing”-- added some small verticals to the bowsprit framing.
Pics before update
 

 
And such luck!! Those left over necklace bits just sort of perfectly fit between the white trim pieces. Now that was a pleasant experience.
 

 
PS: I know that the cathead braces (anchors) are not even an approximation of what they should look like – but done here – moving forward. – I think?
 
Onto installing and attaching the lower main and its shrouds.
 
 

A hughe change compared to your previous view. You like it or you don't, no middle road in this. I am looking forward to see the remainder of this metamorphosis!!

Start of Hothead's torture couple a days before
 

 

 
One step closer to shipyard. Play of horizontal lines, designed by Hothead
 

 
Remains: wireing and floor moldings, making furniture, lighting and entering books and all my papers

I posted this question over in Steamboats and other Rivercraft, so we don't fill up Glenn's log with too much speculation, partly to absolve myself from starting the speculation in the first place.I figured it's a general enough topic that the discussion and answer might fit well over there.

My (limited) understanding is that, as the paddlewheel turns, it creates some pressure in the paddlebox. The large space provided inside the box would ameliorate this effect, as did the later fancy perforated boxes seen on side paddle steamers. Can someone confirm or correct me?

That does sound like a definite possibility. Getting a large branch caught between the wheel and the top of the box would certainly put a wheel out of commission. Thanks Cathead.

Here's an idea on the paddlebox: is the extra space to allow for the possibility of debris caught in the wheel? Most western rivers had a lot of woody debris (branches, logs, etc) and I could see a moderate-sized branch getting caught up between two buckets and being lifted up into the paddlebox, where it could do some damage to either the surrounding shell or the wheel itself once it gets wedged in there. Maybe the extra radius reduces the likelihood of this?
 
Otherwise I'm quite interested to know what Kevin or other informed persons say.

Thanks everybody,
 
I really appreciate the kind words and comments. I thank all of you for making me feel so welcome here in such good company!
 
I decided not to crop out my friends from Easter Island. A student in one of our conservation classes made them for me over 10 years ago. They've been watching over the room ever since.
 
Carl, the indent is for a thin plank that will support the outboard end of the lateral planking that will cover the arch. The cap that runs along the circumference of the boiler deck will continue over the arch. It is wide enough to cover the outboard timbers of the arch eliminating a surface for the planking to sit on. The thin plank just provides a shelf for the ends of the planking. Your second question is a good one. The arch does look odd and even unnecessary considering the size of the paddlewheels. In the past I've looked at representations of side wheelers and have always wondered why this arc is so pronounced as compared to the radius of the paddlewheels. We know the the diameter of the paddle wheel and the forward and aft extents of the paddle box. Some clearance was necessary above the boiler deck. I'm wondering if they just picked a radius that was aesthetically pleasing to bridge the ends of the box. When I get a chance to speak to Kevin I'll get his ideas on the question.

All is well again.. we get our weekly fix.   Just superb.  
 
Carl beat me to this but I'm curious also.  Why were the arches and paddle box so much bigger than the wheel?