Bob Blarney
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from Richvee in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
Good Advice there. If money is available, then it might be wise to order two pair - one for ordinary living, and one for modeling.
Also for when I use power tools, I have some stick-on magnifiers for (semi-disposable) plastic safety goggles. When the goggles are finally scratched beyond usefulness, I can peel them off and put them on a new goggle.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
I have an Optivisor and a couple of knockoffs, but the reading glasses are the most comfortable.
There is another little MacGyver that maybe I shouldn't mention, but I will. My regular prescription eyeglass lenses meet the ANSI standards for impact shatter resistance, but they don't have any side or eyebrow protection. So one time I modded a pair of laboratory safety specs that fit over the prescription glasses but that were very cloudy. I put them on, stared at an object at my usual working distance, and then put a dot on the safety spec lens with a Sharpie, directly at my focused points of the visual field. Then I drilled 3/8" holes through the clouded safety specs. Then I could wear the glasses and peek through the holes to see what I was doing, and still had excellent eye protection. Maybe it was a suboptimal solution, but it was far better than nothing.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from mtaylor in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
Good Advice there. If money is available, then it might be wise to order two pair - one for ordinary living, and one for modeling.
Also for when I use power tools, I have some stick-on magnifiers for (semi-disposable) plastic safety goggles. When the goggles are finally scratched beyond usefulness, I can peel them off and put them on a new goggle.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from coxswain in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
Good Advice there. If money is available, then it might be wise to order two pair - one for ordinary living, and one for modeling.
Also for when I use power tools, I have some stick-on magnifiers for (semi-disposable) plastic safety goggles. When the goggles are finally scratched beyond usefulness, I can peel them off and put them on a new goggle.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from Richvee in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
I have an Optivisor and a couple of knockoffs, but the reading glasses are the most comfortable.
There is another little MacGyver that maybe I shouldn't mention, but I will. My regular prescription eyeglass lenses meet the ANSI standards for impact shatter resistance, but they don't have any side or eyebrow protection. So one time I modded a pair of laboratory safety specs that fit over the prescription glasses but that were very cloudy. I put them on, stared at an object at my usual working distance, and then put a dot on the safety spec lens with a Sharpie, directly at my focused points of the visual field. Then I drilled 3/8" holes through the clouded safety specs. Then I could wear the glasses and peek through the holes to see what I was doing, and still had excellent eye protection. Maybe it was a suboptimal solution, but it was far better than nothing.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
Good Advice there. If money is available, then it might be wise to order two pair - one for ordinary living, and one for modeling.
Also for when I use power tools, I have some stick-on magnifiers for (semi-disposable) plastic safety goggles. When the goggles are finally scratched beyond usefulness, I can peel them off and put them on a new goggle.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from edmay in Tweezers - Japanese vendor Kaneshin
You might save some money, if you look in a catalog of instruments for a veterinarian's armamentarium.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in Jim Byrnes Thickness Sander
If needed to accommodate a slight mismatch in diameters, a gasket can be cut from polyurethane foam from a craft store such as JoAnn, It comes in 2mm and 6mm thickness. Cut the material to the width needed and oversize in length, wrap it around the fitting, and then cut it on a long diagonal. A spot of glue or double-stick cellophane tape will hold it in place.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from mtaylor in Jim Byrnes Thickness Sander
If needed to accommodate a slight mismatch in diameters, a gasket can be cut from polyurethane foam from a craft store such as JoAnn, It comes in 2mm and 6mm thickness. Cut the material to the width needed and oversize in length, wrap it around the fitting, and then cut it on a long diagonal. A spot of glue or double-stick cellophane tape will hold it in place.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from thibaultron in Tweezers - Japanese vendor Kaneshin
They look like an excellent value. I like angulated tips for most work, but some straight pairs are necessary. Make a habit of protecting the tip with a bit of plastic tubing, e.g. aquarium tubing, after every use, or get/make a storage rack. A drop to the floor can permanently damage a fine pair.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from thibaultron in Tweezers - Japanese vendor Kaneshin
You might save some money, if you look in a catalog of instruments for a veterinarian's armamentarium.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from mtaylor in Tweezers - Japanese vendor Kaneshin
They look like an excellent value. I like angulated tips for most work, but some straight pairs are necessary. Make a habit of protecting the tip with a bit of plastic tubing, e.g. aquarium tubing, after every use, or get/make a storage rack. A drop to the floor can permanently damage a fine pair.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in Tweezers - Japanese vendor Kaneshin
They look like an excellent value. I like angulated tips for most work, but some straight pairs are necessary. Make a habit of protecting the tip with a bit of plastic tubing, e.g. aquarium tubing, after every use, or get/make a storage rack. A drop to the floor can permanently damage a fine pair.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
I bought the Foster-Grant Multi Focus and recommend them. They cost ~$35US, and the quality is acceptable if not very good.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from mtaylor in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
I bought the Foster-Grant Multi Focus and recommend them. They cost ~$35US, and the quality is acceptable if not very good.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from michael mott in Speciality Modeling Tools vs. Big Box Prices
Between you and me, I doubt a Ryobi 9" bandsaw would be capable of sawing 3.5" thick wood for very long. Also, while the blade may be 0.025" thick, cleaning up the sawn edges will take a lot of material off too. Ditto for the other saws. If you really would like to save money, maybe you should try a Japanese pullsaw like one of the Vaughn Bearsaws, followed by a sharp handplane on a shooting board.
http://www.vaughanmfg.com/shopping/Departments/Bear-Saw-Hand-Saws.aspx
As for finding high quality stock at a reasonable price, I trashpicked a 60 y/o frame & panel exterior house door. After stripping/sawing off some paint, I had plenty of seasoned, stable pine that is totally clear with perfectly straight and extremely fine grain. Until a few decades ago, doors were usually made from the finest grades of wood available.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from thibaultron in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
I bought the Foster-Grant Multi Focus and recommend them. They cost ~$35US, and the quality is acceptable if not very good.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
I bought the Foster-Grant Multi Focus and recommend them. They cost ~$35US, and the quality is acceptable if not very good.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from hornet in Speciality Modeling Tools vs. Big Box Prices
Between you and me, I doubt a Ryobi 9" bandsaw would be capable of sawing 3.5" thick wood for very long. Also, while the blade may be 0.025" thick, cleaning up the sawn edges will take a lot of material off too. Ditto for the other saws. If you really would like to save money, maybe you should try a Japanese pullsaw like one of the Vaughn Bearsaws, followed by a sharp handplane on a shooting board.
http://www.vaughanmfg.com/shopping/Departments/Bear-Saw-Hand-Saws.aspx
As for finding high quality stock at a reasonable price, I trashpicked a 60 y/o frame & panel exterior house door. After stripping/sawing off some paint, I had plenty of seasoned, stable pine that is totally clear with perfectly straight and extremely fine grain. Until a few decades ago, doors were usually made from the finest grades of wood available.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in Speciality Modeling Tools vs. Big Box Prices
Between you and me, I doubt a Ryobi 9" bandsaw would be capable of sawing 3.5" thick wood for very long. Also, while the blade may be 0.025" thick, cleaning up the sawn edges will take a lot of material off too. Ditto for the other saws. If you really would like to save money, maybe you should try a Japanese pullsaw like one of the Vaughn Bearsaws, followed by a sharp handplane on a shooting board.
http://www.vaughanmfg.com/shopping/Departments/Bear-Saw-Hand-Saws.aspx
As for finding high quality stock at a reasonable price, I trashpicked a 60 y/o frame & panel exterior house door. After stripping/sawing off some paint, I had plenty of seasoned, stable pine that is totally clear with perfectly straight and extremely fine grain. Until a few decades ago, doors were usually made from the finest grades of wood available.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from mtaylor in Speciality Modeling Tools vs. Big Box Prices
Between you and me, I doubt a Ryobi 9" bandsaw would be capable of sawing 3.5" thick wood for very long. Also, while the blade may be 0.025" thick, cleaning up the sawn edges will take a lot of material off too. Ditto for the other saws. If you really would like to save money, maybe you should try a Japanese pullsaw like one of the Vaughn Bearsaws, followed by a sharp handplane on a shooting board.
http://www.vaughanmfg.com/shopping/Departments/Bear-Saw-Hand-Saws.aspx
As for finding high quality stock at a reasonable price, I trashpicked a 60 y/o frame & panel exterior house door. After stripping/sawing off some paint, I had plenty of seasoned, stable pine that is totally clear with perfectly straight and extremely fine grain. Until a few decades ago, doors were usually made from the finest grades of wood available.
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
Further searching revealed this site that may be of interest:
http://www.allaboutvision.com/over40/work_bifocals.htm
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from Canute in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
Further searching revealed this site that may be of interest:
http://www.allaboutvision.com/over40/work_bifocals.htm
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from thibaultron in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
Further searching revealed this site that may be of interest:
http://www.allaboutvision.com/over40/work_bifocals.htm
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Bob Blarney got a reaction from thibaultron in Glasses for detail work (changed by mod)
I have several pairs of readers too, in different diopter strengths. But it seems that the one I need is never at hand. So I'm going to try these out.
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