FredSC

Fred:
To heck with the 20 years - think positive!
 
My wife saw my stash when my new 26 x 42 shop was completed and all my kits and stuff was consolidated into one area - previously stashed in various closets, basement & garage.  She saw it all in one place and said "You have to live to be 350 to build all of those kits/projects". 
 
So I decided that she had given me a goal.  Everyday now when I wake up I look around, get up and say "Well, the plan is working - only 283 years to go - so far so good!"
 
That's my plan.
 
Kurt

So as not to pile on Micro-Mark, I'll keep this factual and let everyone draw their own conclusions.  A couple of years ago I purchased the Micro-Mark "Chop-It", unaware, as with many other things, that there were alternatives for the same function.
 
The base of the "Chop-It" appears to be fiberboard.  The way the cutting arm is attached results in a slight, inherent wobble.  The consequence of these two factors is that after brief use, the fiberboard is deeply scored.  This results in bending the piece before it is cut.  The way the blades fit, they appear to be specially made.
 
It was only about a week ago in following an MSW thread that I learned that NorthWest Short Line (as the name implies, supplying railroad modelers) sells "The Chopper" and "Chopper II".  The MM "Chop-It" appears remarkably similar to the NWSL "Chopper".  It further appears that the NWSL folks believe that MM unfairly copied their "Chopper"and are selling an inferior knock-off (see hornet 3/26/15 post).
 
Because I find the MM "Chop-It" unsatisfactory, today I ordered the NWSL "Chopper II"  Product review to follow after it arrives.
 
P.S.  If I could realistically look forward to another 20 years or more of modelling, I'd almost certainly purchase the full line of Jim Byrnes power tools and really get into it.   Alas, ....  So, it seems the thing to do is get the right hand tools (plus the Dremel rotary) to build the best possible models from kits. 

So as not to pile on Micro-Mark, I'll keep this factual and let everyone draw their own conclusions.  A couple of years ago I purchased the Micro-Mark "Chop-It", unaware, as with many other things, that there were alternatives for the same function.
 
The base of the "Chop-It" appears to be fiberboard.  The way the cutting arm is attached results in a slight, inherent wobble.  The consequence of these two factors is that after brief use, the fiberboard is deeply scored.  This results in bending the piece before it is cut.  The way the blades fit, they appear to be specially made.
 
It was only about a week ago in following an MSW thread that I learned that NorthWest Short Line (as the name implies, supplying railroad modelers) sells "The Chopper" and "Chopper II".  The MM "Chop-It" appears remarkably similar to the NWSL "Chopper".  It further appears that the NWSL folks believe that MM unfairly copied their "Chopper"and are selling an inferior knock-off (see hornet 3/26/15 post).
 
Because I find the MM "Chop-It" unsatisfactory, today I ordered the NWSL "Chopper II"  Product review to follow after it arrives.
 
P.S.  If I could realistically look forward to another 20 years or more of modelling, I'd almost certainly purchase the full line of Jim Byrnes power tools and really get into it.   Alas, ....  So, it seems the thing to do is get the right hand tools (plus the Dremel rotary) to build the best possible models from kits. 

Its like paying a ton of money right now for a hobby 3d printer.  It would pretty much be a waste a money. This is usually used for the scrap booking hobby and is best for cutting paper and cardboard.  Try cutting anything like basswood over 1/16" thick and you will run into problems. You would likely to cut through 1/16" boxwood at all.  This is the same model often seen on EBAY and its made in china.  Its not a good machine at all.  In fact I think its dangerous.  I have read horror stories about these cheap Chinese machines.  Best to double the price and go for a 60 watt machine by a reputable maker.   Its not a good machine at all.  You could actually buy that same machine on ebay or through other sources for half that price.  That is a rip-off if I ever saw one.
 
 
See this
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/40W-CO2-Laser-Cutter-Engraver-Cutting-Machine-Support-Corel-Draw-W-Air-Assist-/201117615871?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed38b46ff
 
Its just a waste of money.
 
I paid about $5500 give or take for my 60 watt laser and it can cut through quarter inch ply in one pass on 60% power.  This $$ includes the laser cutter ....putting in a good exhaust system,  and a dedicated electric line.  Better focus lens and longer life laser tube.  Larger cutting area.   The machine is well built and I have never had any issues with it.  The exhause is super important.  I would never cut Styrene with it as listed on the MM site either.  That stuff melts and the fumes are bad.  My advice...stay far far away!!!
 
Have a look
 
\https://www.bosslaser.com/laser-machinery/entry-level-co2-lasers/boss-ls-1415-122-detail
 
Chuck

Clark,   Thanks for the review.  The more information and opinion the better.  Of course, I now have to re-consider how to go.  Maybe for the costs involved it's best to be fully equipped, as I frequently tell the Admiral about all sorts of things.

Thanks, Phil.  As one would expect, a thorough set of findings and conclusions.  For now at least, I think I will not be going surgical, but will carry on with X-acto and Excel handles  and blades.

Thank you all.  It looks like NRG is in good hands.

I use them and they work really well.  I don't know how they get to be "self healing", but they really are.  I may have it wrong, but I think about 36" square goes for about $30.  They are durable until you get so much glue, paint, etc., on them that replacement is a good idea.  I'm on my fourth build with the same one.

Adam,    We all know that the only way to avoid mistakes, to say nothing of criticism, is to do nothing.  I think what you are doing is a great service to the model community and i, for one, appreciate it, expect to benefit from it and don't much care it it is not "perfect", whatever that means, since that is an entirely subjective term anyway.  Thanks for doing it.

Adam,    We all know that the only way to avoid mistakes, to say nothing of criticism, is to do nothing.  I think what you are doing is a great service to the model community and i, for one, appreciate it, expect to benefit from it and don't much care it it is not "perfect", whatever that means, since that is an entirely subjective term anyway.  Thanks for doing it.

Adam,  A terrific idea.  Maybe especially for people (like me) who think "code' Is pig Latin or quantum entanglement, but who knows what that is(?)

Thank you Grant, I'm glad you enjoyed the read. 
 
The channels were built from boxwood, to replace the kit walnut version, and glued and pinned to the hull. I still need to fabricate and install the support knees. 
 
I also installed the pumps, which were completed awhile ago, as well as the quarterdeck barricade. I don't think I took any photos of when I installed the entry steps and fenders not long ago, which are also boxwood replacements of the kit walnut. 
 
Finally, I've installed the rudder and tiller and housing. I added the trim along the bottom of the housing on my own to give it a ore finished look. Caldercraft would have you make the tiller from a bent piece of brass. I didn't really think it would have been a metal part on the real Granado, and the AOTS book is unclear, so I carved one up from boxwood. Even if I'm wrong, I think it looks better...
 
 

Joe,  You and Timmo have set a really high standard for a Grenado build.  Every time I see new pics I think what these guys are doing is amazing.  At the same time, while still trying to get planks flat on bulkheads and filler blocks on my Grenado, I'm thinking, If only I had known that you also have to be an accomplished artist to do this stuff....
Sure, it can be plain vanilla without the additional detail you both have done (and surely hard enough at that), but seeing what it can look like requires an effort.  When, as and if I get near the details your pics show, I'll go to a large art supply store in nearby Savannah, GA and describe the issues.  If nothing else, it might be good for a chuckle.  Meanwhile, the build goes on.

Joe,  You and Timmo have set a really high standard for a Grenado build.  Every time I see new pics I think what these guys are doing is amazing.  At the same time, while still trying to get planks flat on bulkheads and filler blocks on my Grenado, I'm thinking, If only I had known that you also have to be an accomplished artist to do this stuff....
Sure, it can be plain vanilla without the additional detail you both have done (and surely hard enough at that), but seeing what it can look like requires an effort.  When, as and if I get near the details your pics show, I'll go to a large art supply store in nearby Savannah, GA and describe the issues.  If nothing else, it might be good for a chuckle.  Meanwhile, the build goes on.