Thistle17

After some 20 days of on and off focus on this build I finally believe I have a worthy transom construction that will carry me through. The first photo shows the transom sub assembly (sans the lower sills) dry fitted onto the frames. If you have been following along my path to this point you are aware it has been a circuitous and not without folly journey. Fundamentally I just did not appreciate the criticality of the transom positioning in relation to the quarter galleys. So anyone approaching this area should be fore warned.
 
Having said that and for what it may be worth to others I would like to share my methodology. I would not say it is the definitive way of doing things for there are a number of ways within the build blogs that worked but for me it replaced the awkwardness of paper patterns especially when removing and replacing the assembly.
 
In stepwise fashion here is how I approached the construction:
1. After making the new frame members and repairing the P and S outer ones I repositioned them in the registration slots on bulkheads #27 through #29. My slots were a bit sloppy from my first try at building the transom so some shims were needed to hold them in place.
2. I then took the transom laser cut outer 'skin' shown in the second photo and clamped it to the outside of the frames. It was positioned so that the relief around windows was equal. The "fit" templates (1 thrugh 5) were then placed in between the clamped frames and the whole was adjusted accordingly to ensure that this piece was placed vertically (aligned at the bottom to the topside of the upper edge of the counter) and again symetrically around each window opening.
3. Lines were traced down the inside of the transom piece where the frames should align. See the markings on the inside of the transom piece. You will also note a center line on the transom piece.
4. Starting with the inner 2 frames the filler piece was sanded to fit the exact opening. It was then glued in place to both 'A' frames. It too was marked with a center line.
5. This assembly was removed from the model and the aft side was rough sanded to nearly its final thickness.
6. This sub assembly was returned to the model and once again aligned with the transom piece via the premarked center lines.
7. The next transom filler piece was edge sanded (with the appropriate taper) using the guide on sheet 1 of the plans and trial fitting on the model such that the port hole concentricity was achieved. This is a bit tricky but doable in carefully repeated steps. The registration guide supplied (i.e. #2) was used to ensure that the sizing was proper. It was then returned to the model and glued to frame 'A' only.
8. Once the glue had securely bonded (I take extra clamp time when edge grain is glued to face grain) I then sanded this added filler off the model to near flatness to its frame. I then reclamped the transom filler to the frames ensuring alignment and clamped the 'B' frame to this new sub assembly to check for edge trueness, port hole alignment etc. If satisfied I glued frame 'B' to the sub assembly.
9. This same process was used for the port side filler of the same type.
10. Iteritively, this process was repeated for the remaining frames and fillers.
11. I must repeat that all along the way I used the spacer registration pieces 1 through 5 repeatedly while fitting and during assembly. And as importantly I used the angle template made from the drawing to ensure that the final assembly would have the correct tilt from vertical.
12. Lastly if one measures off the drawing where the inside of transom piece 'C' must tie into bulkhead #28 with the horizontal member that becomes the header for the quarter galley passage way you will find that it has to be 61mm across its top. Before final gluing that should be checked P and S.
 
Joe
 
Just an editorial comment: Chuck must have had me in mind when he made duplicates of all the transom filler pieces. I used and went through them only having to make the outer ones from scrap on the originally supplied parts blank.

After preparing all the sistering planks to facilitate use of the existing transom framework I had second thoughts about this method of repair. Knowing that a poorly fit and aligned transom implied problems, possibly unrecoverable, when it came time to include the quarter galleys I scrapped the idea.
 
Instead, using the kit blanks for the intermediate frames I made new ones of boxwood. As stated I never throw away the "blanks" for just such a reason. I remade frame pairs for 'A' and 'B' elements. They were rough cut on my scroll saw, sanded on my disc and drum sanders to the traced lines and they were hand tuned with files and chisels. Finally they were ganged together and fined tuned further for conformity. By the time I finished I had yet more respect for the accuracy and repeatability of laser machining. 
 
I was able to repair the 'C' and 'D' pairs as stated earlier so with the spare filler parts included in the Chapter 1 ensemble I will start again to assemble the transom using selected techniques developed by those wiser than me.
 
Joe

As I was preparing to build anew all the elements of the transom it struck me that I might try to salvage the transom that I had sawn off on my last attempt at assembly.
 
Since my transom angle was the driver for the removal it seemed to be a waste to just abandon it without trying a repair. I first trued up the cutoff ends of the port and starbaord C/D frames. Then I mortised into the cleaned up ends a deep enough mortise to give a tenon a substantial seat but not too deep as to protrude aft. Having saved scrap cedar from the kit I glued up "extenders of the same material thickness and let in the registration socket in each. One "extender" was cut to length (including the tenon length) for the starboard side. It was glued up using the cutout template for the element alignment. Since it had broken away from the transom full assembly it was easy to machine. The fuller assemblage was a bit awakward but it did fit my mill vice with some creative clamping. The port side extender will be cut to length and milled in a similar manner.
 
The mid transom frames would be more difficult to repair with them in an assembled manner so they will be treated differently. Since they require simple extenders I will "sister planks" of appropriate dimension to A and B frame ends. Having done so I will open up the respective bulkhead slots and reinstall the repaired  transom. And this time I will use the template guide I fashioned.
 
Hopefully I will be back in business soon.
 
Joe 

I managed to remove the sawn off frames and preserve the openings in the existing bulkheads. Of course there is residual PVA in the joints which will prevent good bonding of the new frames. I will attempt some remedy without opening up those frame slots. I had mentioned that I had two unused intermediate elements that were meant for the first go around. They are shown dry fit between #28 and #27 bulkheads. While they do not add much as fillers for strength they certainly will give some much needed unspoiled glue surface for the frames.
 
I am milling the boxwood for the frames and will be cutting them out shortly.
 
The saw in the foreground is the one I referenced earlier. It is such a great tool!
 
Joe

Glenn I am of your thinking. While I pondered the way out I cleared the slots in the existing framing. It took awhile so as not to destroy any semblence of alignment in the current bulkheads. I also had made some mahogany inserts, that I never used in the first go around, that fit exactlly between bulkheads #27 and #28. They could give me more glue area for the frames.
 
(As an aside I bought through Lee Valley their flushing cutting Japanese double edge pull saw. That has been a marvelous tool for getting fine accurate cuts such as these without wasting away material unneccessarily.)
 
Having reached this point I pulled out saved AYC plates, of chapter 1, that contained the frame elements. I am going to have a go at fashioning the stern frames from that blank. I have learned to hang onto any blanks for just such a use. I do not have AYC of that thickness but I do have box wood that can be used.
 
So, even without that margarita, thngs seem to be looking brighter at the moment.
 
Joe.

In the continued fairing process and double checking with template cutouts prior to port hole structural member installation I find I have yet another self inflicted "wound"! I thought I heeded the warning regarding getting the transom postioned correctly as a major factor to get the quarter galleys to come out correctly. But I found the transom angle incorrect after building the simple angle guage. I judged it was not "tweakable".
 
In thinking back I had used my adjustable digital angle guage prior and I can only speculate that the set angle changed from  setup.  To my dismay I found the transom angle too far off when compaerd to the guage shown. I can trace back some of the creep to my early attempts of fiddling with bulkhead #27 slot depth. It was not much but just enough to give me a cant too sharp to the vertical.
 
Progress came to a scheering halt last eve.
 
This morning I realized there was no opportunity to finesse the error. So off came the transom framing againt bulkhead #29! Now I am faced with the task of how I am to fix this problem. So with Jimmy Buffet's lyric ringing in my head ("Some people claim it's a woman to blame. But I know it's my own damn fault") I have looked at alternatives. None seem to pop at the moment.
 
1. Start all over again from the skeleton forward. Problem I see is that the framing kit is not even offered on the Syren web site at this time
2. Hat in hand go back and buy Chapter #1 kit for the 3rd time (I just sent it back and got a refund). It includes all the transom parts. How can I do that????
3. Remake bulkhead #27 through #29 and transom components by hand. Cut out those bulkheads and start again. All need to be cut extremely accurately and identically, especially  in the slot areas.
 
So I will let this "cook" for a day or two and proceed.
 
Maybe after sipping a couple of those margaritas it will come to me.
 
Joe 

If at first you fail to succeed try again...and again...and again!
 
After 2 weeks of on again off again fiddling with the transom framing I think I finally arrived. In no small measure the suggestions and even the "boot in the tail" of the 'master' were the incentives to confront my impediments and move forward. As previously mentioned one key element was the replacement of bulkhead #29. I had adjusted the slots so much of the original ones that I lost the ability for the frames to stay put during construction. So I remade them out of some mahogany that I had gotten from a pattern maker. It took a bit of deliberate hand sawing to get them precise but in the end they proved to be the solution to the loose fit problem of the frames. From that point on it was just a matter of hand tuning the stern upper fillers to get the correct curvature of the stern.
 
In retrospect the 'boot in the tail' also got me to reflect on my state of mind during the prior attempts. As cautioned so many times before slow and steady is the ingredient needed on this model. But I might add one needs to have the right frame of mind and concentration is a must. I just didn't have it before. I was so frutrated about a week earlier that I even ordered the Chapter 1 kit again in anticipation of starting over. It turned out it was not needed.
 
While I am at it I would like to comment on the Syren kit. To have the kit manufacturer design, build and create instructions in a progressive manner is not to be taken for granted. When I finished the stern framing construction I pushed back and mused that Chuck must have had me in mind when he produced the kit parts for this section. Who else adds 'spare" parts and template guides as they perceive that some folk will have trouble in this section?
 
So in the end I think I am where I should be on the transom. I do have some upper counter tuning to do but for the most part it all works. The transom covering piece fits nearly perfect. For me the key was to concentrate on getting the stern port distancing precise.
 
Joe
 
 
 

Thanks Chuck. It seems to me I am loosing some concentration in addition to being too cautious and over thinking things as you say.
 
Believe me I am reading the monographs, especially yours.
 
I came back to the model after I'd walked away for an hour and figured it out. Of course when I trim (sand) back the 'C' frames they will give me the relief I need and when I bevel and fit the fillers all should come out well. I have come to be so sensitive to the fit of the elements since if not correct it will be a disaster with the construction of the quarter galleys.
 
What I ended up doing to get the transom frames to have the right fit and sit well was to remove bulkhead 29 and replace them with hand made new ones. That cured almost all the problems with frames "'A' and 'B' as they were too sloppy a fit with all my prior tunning.
 
Joe 
 
 

I believe I have reached a milestone in that I have been able to fit all  the stern frames correctly and glue in most of them (save the 'C' frames). I have used just about everyones suggestions along the way to do so.  Photo(s) to follow. The reason I have not glued in the 'C' frames is that thinking ahead to the quarter galley, fill pieces that will be glued to the inside of the transom element, I am a bit hesitant without asking the following:
 
"Knowing that the planking is 3/64" the galley fill piece edge has to butt up aginst the planking (I understand I have to taper that edge carfefully for a good fit against the hull). So I assume that one needs to account for that 3/64" plus a TBD amount so the filler creates a relatively even lip for the galley rear window. Now the galley filler inside stile is 3/32". That tells me I have to remove just about 3/64" from that stile. Am I correct?"
 
Joe

Thank you all for your ideas and thoughts. I intend to employ them in the next round. I ordered the kit parts this AM and have patterns cut for potential replacement bulkheads should I need to go that far. I saw  a method on the Tally Ho restoration (YouTube) involving the precise layout of critical opening cutouts of covering boards on her deck that might be something worth trying out as a jig. So Edward we will see.
Joe

"DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME!". As one might have guessed my idea of assenbly of the transom in the manner I described while not a disaster was not a complete success. It actually fit the bulkhead slots but as I moved outward from the mid transom frames, especially the 'C' transom frames, it became an assembly in tension.
 
So with 'hat in hand' I reordered Chapter 1 parts again and will start the process over.
 
I have found this segement quite a challenge as there are so many ways that this can go wrong. Am I the only one who has tripped up on this?
 
Joe
 
 
 

Chuck I understand your doubt. I share it. I did forget to mention that I am tapering the upper stern frame fillers as the on line instructions relate and I am using the guides (1 through 5) to help in the contouring. As I proceed I am taking the partial assembly to the model and testing the fit. So far with one of the 'B' frames correcctly postioned it fits and fits comfortably. As we have discussed my start up has been unconventional and I am paying for that. It was a hard lesson learned that will not be repeated. My escape will have to be some level of do over if it is a disaster.
Joe

Thanks Glen for that perspective. I did wonder about how the effects of trimming to fit was going to turn out in the end, Your input gives me the caution I need to hear. Interesting comment on the U and W bulkheads. I will watch that as well,
Joe

Let me lead in with the following statement before I get into the methodology I have adopted for the stern framing. " In no way am I making any disparaging comments as to the fidelity of the Syren kit parts in my comments herein. I have always found the parts to be well designed and manufactured."
 
Having said that I think many of you might agree that the Winchelsea transom is a bit tricky to assemble and fit correctly. Simply put, it takes quite a bit of care and trial fitting to get it to come out correctly. Not withstanding it all has to take place in mid air!
 
Well it was a bit more of a struggle for me under my circumstances. The problem is unique to my "framing construction" and would not affect others. I only share it for some of you that may be having trouble with "in air" assembly.
 
After a number of attempts to fit the transom frames and fillers in place while all elements were stepwise fit together on the frame. I had to abandon that approach. Before I get further into it I should also say that sanding, chiseling and filing the stern frame slots on #28 and #29 bulkhead resulted in some loose fitting slots. That made the "in air" assembly yet more awkward.
 
So I resorted to an "on the bench" approach. I copied and cut out the stern layout drawing on page 1 of the drawing set. I began with stern frame(s) 'A" and the associated filler for these frames and overlayed them on the drawing cutout. There is no filler tapering required on the filler but to have the frames correctly align I did have to trim the mid filler a bit. Now before going on one has to realize that this is a 2D drawing of a slightly curved transom and has not been adjusted for the concave effects ( I believe this, as the "port holes" in the frieze or the transom covering line up quite well).
 
Successively I am working my way outward and at each step checking by fitting on the stern and with the transom cutout. Note in the picture that the port side filler has yet to be trimmed to fit.
 
I have my fingers crossed that all will come out in the end. Else I may have to repurchase some parts. That will be humbling!
 
Joe 
 

As I continue the fairing of the hull I spent some time on the bow on the starbaord side and was pleasantly surprised at how it turned out. Methodology was the key for me and the batten trials has served me well. I did extend my bow filler layout method to the port side in the following manner.
 
Before I permantly glued in the starbaord elements I ensured that the taper on both the exposed and backside profile of the port side matched the starboard elements. I then extended the perpendiculars I had inscribed on the starbaord topside element to bulkhead 'W' on the port side. Then using the ;story pole' shown clamped to the strabaord side I marked the taper that would 'dial me in' on port side and made the tick marks shown. In theory this will give me a near identical bow geometry to plank.
 
To my way of thinking this simple method nudges me away from the 'eye balling' I have done in the past that has not always turned out for me.
 
Joe

Hmmm! I didn't read the monograph thoroughly enough or should i say I did not spend enough time on line where at times more detail can be found.
Of course that explains it. Another lesson in more deliberate execution. Not an excuse but at this time I can only spend an hour at best at this and the on again, off again approach does not lend itself to the build. Thank you.
Joe

Good advice Glen.
 
I was playing around once again with the transom framing alignment. It is coming along but I came upon something I wonder if people can enlighten me on. I cleaned up the transom fillers and dry fitted and clamped them in place save the outer ones port and starboard. I was a bit surpirsed to find they were a bit too fat. Certainly way to fat to be tweaked. I would say they were 3/32 inch too wide. I laid them on the drawing and found that they are too wide there as well by the same amount. The drawing shows vertical lines on the pieces. Now they could be trim lines. Has anyone had to trim these per the drawing?Have I missed something here? 
Joe

Back to fairing the hull after my stumbles with the transom frame(s) alignment. I went back to concentrating on the bow bulkheads and fillers. I find this area particularily fussy to work as one is trying to shape the bow mostly through an itterative trial fit process. The battens come in handy for this stage so they must not be neglected in the shaping effort. Observing how the batten lays against the fillers and the first two bulkheads is always a clue to the trueness of shaping.
 
To make things just a bit more complicated the 'W' bulkhead has a mild serpentine curve at its base so that the fillers have to mimic that ever so slightly. To give myself a better chance that all will come out in the end I do not glue the fillers (BF 1 - 3) in as they are so awkward to shape whilst on the model. I start with the bulkhead shaping first ( W and U ). I shape them closely to thier prpoper bevel. In preparation for the next step. I glue fillers, BF 3 & 2 together making sure they align correctly. I then clamp that assembly to the strong back and trace the bottom  and rear face of the assembly against the bevel edge of bulkhead 'W". Iteratively I sand via a Dremel with a fine drum sander attached until I get close to the desired surface contours. The process is repeated until I feel I have achieved the desired shaping. I compare my results to some of the helpful photos of Chuck's build as shown in the attachment. In that photo you may notice that I drew in a contour line on the fillers just to get an idea of the shaping trajectory. Ultimately the assembled elements are finished sanded with blocked up linear sanding.
 
This next step is something I learned the hard way in planking Cheerful. On the semi finished starboard filler on the right I drew perpendicular lines as replication markers for its port mate. On the starboard element I drew in a similar contour line as shown on the photo. Using the perpendicular intersects of the starboard side I marked off the port side and drew in the contour shape with a french curve. This produces a very symmetrical bow framing for planking.
 
Now the photo fillers appear a bit wider at the waist area. So as a sanity check I measured Chuck's photo dimensions of the photo filler waist to the distance of bulkhead 'W" from the strong back to its tapered edge and compared it to my contoured filler. I came up with a simple ratio of filler waist width to bulkhead waist width. They turn out to be almost dead on. I am thinking that the appearance difference is the angle and optics of the photo taken.
 
At this point I am second guessing myself and if I am not happy with the results I can always make more fillers and restart the process!!!!!!!!!
 
Joe

Amongst other things I have been stuck in my own follies of late so just getting back to witness your handsome model and expert work. That wood looks so warm in those pictures and that stove is just a masterpiece!
Joe

After some 20 days of on and off focus on this build I finally believe I have a worthy transom construction that will carry me through. The first photo shows the transom sub assembly (sans the lower sills) dry fitted onto the frames. If you have been following along my path to this point you are aware it has been a circuitous and not without folly journey. Fundamentally I just did not appreciate the criticality of the transom positioning in relation to the quarter galleys. So anyone approaching this area should be fore warned.
 
Having said that and for what it may be worth to others I would like to share my methodology. I would not say it is the definitive way of doing things for there are a number of ways within the build blogs that worked but for me it replaced the awkwardness of paper patterns especially when removing and replacing the assembly.
 
In stepwise fashion here is how I approached the construction:
1. After making the new frame members and repairing the P and S outer ones I repositioned them in the registration slots on bulkheads #27 through #29. My slots were a bit sloppy from my first try at building the transom so some shims were needed to hold them in place.
2. I then took the transom laser cut outer 'skin' shown in the second photo and clamped it to the outside of the frames. It was positioned so that the relief around windows was equal. The "fit" templates (1 thrugh 5) were then placed in between the clamped frames and the whole was adjusted accordingly to ensure that this piece was placed vertically (aligned at the bottom to the topside of the upper edge of the counter) and again symetrically around each window opening.
3. Lines were traced down the inside of the transom piece where the frames should align. See the markings on the inside of the transom piece. You will also note a center line on the transom piece.
4. Starting with the inner 2 frames the filler piece was sanded to fit the exact opening. It was then glued in place to both 'A' frames. It too was marked with a center line.
5. This assembly was removed from the model and the aft side was rough sanded to nearly its final thickness.
6. This sub assembly was returned to the model and once again aligned with the transom piece via the premarked center lines.
7. The next transom filler piece was edge sanded (with the appropriate taper) using the guide on sheet 1 of the plans and trial fitting on the model such that the port hole concentricity was achieved. This is a bit tricky but doable in carefully repeated steps. The registration guide supplied (i.e. #2) was used to ensure that the sizing was proper. It was then returned to the model and glued to frame 'A' only.
8. Once the glue had securely bonded (I take extra clamp time when edge grain is glued to face grain) I then sanded this added filler off the model to near flatness to its frame. I then reclamped the transom filler to the frames ensuring alignment and clamped the 'B' frame to this new sub assembly to check for edge trueness, port hole alignment etc. If satisfied I glued frame 'B' to the sub assembly.
9. This same process was used for the port side filler of the same type.
10. Iteritively, this process was repeated for the remaining frames and fillers.
11. I must repeat that all along the way I used the spacer registration pieces 1 through 5 repeatedly while fitting and during assembly. And as importantly I used the angle template made from the drawing to ensure that the final assembly would have the correct tilt from vertical.
12. Lastly if one measures off the drawing where the inside of transom piece 'C' must tie into bulkhead #28 with the horizontal member that becomes the header for the quarter galley passage way you will find that it has to be 61mm across its top. Before final gluing that should be checked P and S.
 
Joe
 
Just an editorial comment: Chuck must have had me in mind when he made duplicates of all the transom filler pieces. I used and went through them only having to make the outer ones from scrap on the originally supplied parts blank.

After some 20 days of on and off focus on this build I finally believe I have a worthy transom construction that will carry me through. The first photo shows the transom sub assembly (sans the lower sills) dry fitted onto the frames. If you have been following along my path to this point you are aware it has been a circuitous and not without folly journey. Fundamentally I just did not appreciate the criticality of the transom positioning in relation to the quarter galleys. So anyone approaching this area should be fore warned.
 
Having said that and for what it may be worth to others I would like to share my methodology. I would not say it is the definitive way of doing things for there are a number of ways within the build blogs that worked but for me it replaced the awkwardness of paper patterns especially when removing and replacing the assembly.
 
In stepwise fashion here is how I approached the construction:
1. After making the new frame members and repairing the P and S outer ones I repositioned them in the registration slots on bulkheads #27 through #29. My slots were a bit sloppy from my first try at building the transom so some shims were needed to hold them in place.
2. I then took the transom laser cut outer 'skin' shown in the second photo and clamped it to the outside of the frames. It was positioned so that the relief around windows was equal. The "fit" templates (1 thrugh 5) were then placed in between the clamped frames and the whole was adjusted accordingly to ensure that this piece was placed vertically (aligned at the bottom to the topside of the upper edge of the counter) and again symetrically around each window opening.
3. Lines were traced down the inside of the transom piece where the frames should align. See the markings on the inside of the transom piece. You will also note a center line on the transom piece.
4. Starting with the inner 2 frames the filler piece was sanded to fit the exact opening. It was then glued in place to both 'A' frames. It too was marked with a center line.
5. This assembly was removed from the model and the aft side was rough sanded to nearly its final thickness.
6. This sub assembly was returned to the model and once again aligned with the transom piece via the premarked center lines.
7. The next transom filler piece was edge sanded (with the appropriate taper) using the guide on sheet 1 of the plans and trial fitting on the model such that the port hole concentricity was achieved. This is a bit tricky but doable in carefully repeated steps. The registration guide supplied (i.e. #2) was used to ensure that the sizing was proper. It was then returned to the model and glued to frame 'A' only.
8. Once the glue had securely bonded (I take extra clamp time when edge grain is glued to face grain) I then sanded this added filler off the model to near flatness to its frame. I then reclamped the transom filler to the frames ensuring alignment and clamped the 'B' frame to this new sub assembly to check for edge trueness, port hole alignment etc. If satisfied I glued frame 'B' to the sub assembly.
9. This same process was used for the port side filler of the same type.
10. Iteritively, this process was repeated for the remaining frames and fillers.
11. I must repeat that all along the way I used the spacer registration pieces 1 through 5 repeatedly while fitting and during assembly. And as importantly I used the angle template made from the drawing to ensure that the final assembly would have the correct tilt from vertical.
12. Lastly if one measures off the drawing where the inside of transom piece 'C' must tie into bulkhead #28 with the horizontal member that becomes the header for the quarter galley passage way you will find that it has to be 61mm across its top. Before final gluing that should be checked P and S.
 
Joe
 
Just an editorial comment: Chuck must have had me in mind when he made duplicates of all the transom filler pieces. I used and went through them only having to make the outer ones from scrap on the originally supplied parts blank.

Progress on the PBR hull in just the last day. Out of the basement it came on a very arrid, warm day and we managed to get nearly a full coat of primer on the topsides, insides and some of the hull area at the rail. Not surprisingly voids or "holidays" as the painters trade calls them popped. These were filled with Nitro Stan glazing compound and will be wet sanded and primed once again when the hull is dry.
 
This hull has been in the basement since early days of the Covid lock down and it is time for it to go back to the museum for further outfit. I will be so happy!!!!
 
Note that this primer is amazingly tinted like the top coat so it should be less of a problem for us to finish caot.
 
Joe

Progress on the PBR hull in just the last day. Out of the basement it came on a very arrid, warm day and we managed to get nearly a full coat of primer on the topsides, insides and some of the hull area at the rail. Not surprisingly voids or "holidays" as the painters trade calls them popped. These were filled with Nitro Stan glazing compound and will be wet sanded and primed once again when the hull is dry.
 
This hull has been in the basement since early days of the Covid lock down and it is time for it to go back to the museum for further outfit. I will be so happy!!!!
 
Note that this primer is amazingly tinted like the top coat so it should be less of a problem for us to finish caot.
 
Joe

Progress on the PBR hull in just the last day. Out of the basement it came on a very arrid, warm day and we managed to get nearly a full coat of primer on the topsides, insides and some of the hull area at the rail. Not surprisingly voids or "holidays" as the painters trade calls them popped. These were filled with Nitro Stan glazing compound and will be wet sanded and primed once again when the hull is dry.
 
This hull has been in the basement since early days of the Covid lock down and it is time for it to go back to the museum for further outfit. I will be so happy!!!!
 
Note that this primer is amazingly tinted like the top coat so it should be less of a problem for us to finish caot.
 
Joe

Progress on the PBR hull in just the last day. Out of the basement it came on a very arrid, warm day and we managed to get nearly a full coat of primer on the topsides, insides and some of the hull area at the rail. Not surprisingly voids or "holidays" as the painters trade calls them popped. These were filled with Nitro Stan glazing compound and will be wet sanded and primed once again when the hull is dry.
 
This hull has been in the basement since early days of the Covid lock down and it is time for it to go back to the museum for further outfit. I will be so happy!!!!
 
Note that this primer is amazingly tinted like the top coat so it should be less of a problem for us to finish caot.
 
Joe