wyz
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wyz reacted to Stuntflyer in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
I've been busy over the past few days with the timberheads, those pesky boom crutches and painting. The timberheads proved to be not too difficult as long as I was careful while filing them to shape. The boom crutches proved to be another story as making these put my patience to the test. I only had to make three to get the required two though the process took the better part of a day. I was relieved to get them glued on the boat. The cleanup painting continues. . . .
Viewing the boom crutches from this angle distorts the symmetry of the two pieces but you should be able to get the general idea of how they look.
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wyz reacted to Stuntflyer in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
I was able to complete the inboard stern details today. The knees with 5mm cleats, 9mm cleats on the stern frames, 22 gauge wire horse, false stern post and seats were added. There are tiny washers at the base of the horse made from 28 gauge wire. After forming them they were flattened with a plier. The outside diameter is only .065 so they are quite small. Being very hard to handle a few did end up as a permanent fixture in the carpet.
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wyz got a reaction from Obormotov in HMS Victory by guraus - scale 1:48 - plank on frame
Hi Alexandru,
While I've never been a big fan of HMS Victory models I can't help but follow your work on this one. It's over-the-top nice,,,,, just gorgeous! When you are finished with it I hope it ends up in a place where it can be viewed by lots of people. Anything less would be a crime. You are quite the craftsman, a true artist. Thanks for sharing with us.
Tom
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wyz got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Alan, I'm happy to see you're under way with the build.... a nice start. You certainly did all the prep work necessary for the project. This is a build I will be following for sure. Best wishes and keep those pictures coming!
Tom
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wyz got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
Thanks Ed for the suggestion to use the Microplane. Should I ever do another bread and butter construction I will certainly keep that in mind. That may be long time coming however because after this project I want to try my hand at doing a plank-on-frame model.
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wyz got a reaction from Siegfried in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
With the hull mounted on the building board it could now be moved into the back shop where the hull shaping will take place. The first thing I did was take out my chisels, gouges and mallet to round the hull some. This is the roughest of the rough shaping. I further shaped the hull with a block plane. This was helpful in rounding out the rough shaped hull, but I could only do so much so fast with it. To speed the process I broke out my 4" x 24" Porter Cable belt sander with a 36 grit belt and tore into the hull. Sawdust went everywhere! With that sander and my Makita pad sander with 60 grit sandpaper I was able to finish up the pre-template shaping in short order. The two photos show the hull at this stage. Now the arduous job of shaping with the templates begins. Because so much saw dust is produced I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you use a dust mask and a room filter. In my condo I have to always remember to keep the three doors to the shops and basement closed. as the fine wood particulate has a magical way of getting into every room. Without question this is one of the major drawbacks to this method of hull construction.
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wyz got a reaction from ggrieco in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
Above are three pictures of the hull finally mounted on the building board. The first step was to locate and then drill holes in the building board where the extension supports would go. Then I had to measure and cut their heights down to where they suspended the hull exactly 1/16" above the building board. I did this step slowly and with great care so as to not go to far. It turned out perfect! The last of the 4 photos shows a closeup of the elevated keel.
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wyz got a reaction from ggrieco in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
Glue is then applied to each lift. I am very liberal with the glue so I have to wait a little longer for it to get tacky. Be careful doing this. You don't want to wait too long because you want all the excess glue to easily squeeze out.
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wyz got a reaction from AON in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Alan, I'm happy to see you're under way with the build.... a nice start. You certainly did all the prep work necessary for the project. This is a build I will be following for sure. Best wishes and keep those pictures coming!
Tom
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wyz reacted to AnobiumPunctatum in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
druxey is absolut right. Remcos motto is perfect for our hobby.
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wyz reacted to AON in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Couldn't do anything through the week and not much progress today.
Made new keel pieces this afternoon.
I am very happy with these and will hopefully glue the paper on tomorrow and might get the sections together.
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wyz got a reaction from ggrieco in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
With the hull mounted on the building board it could now be moved into the back shop where the hull shaping will take place. The first thing I did was take out my chisels, gouges and mallet to round the hull some. This is the roughest of the rough shaping. I further shaped the hull with a block plane. This was helpful in rounding out the rough shaped hull, but I could only do so much so fast with it. To speed the process I broke out my 4" x 24" Porter Cable belt sander with a 36 grit belt and tore into the hull. Sawdust went everywhere! With that sander and my Makita pad sander with 60 grit sandpaper I was able to finish up the pre-template shaping in short order. The two photos show the hull at this stage. Now the arduous job of shaping with the templates begins. Because so much saw dust is produced I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you use a dust mask and a room filter. In my condo I have to always remember to keep the three doors to the shops and basement closed. as the fine wood particulate has a magical way of getting into every room. Without question this is one of the major drawbacks to this method of hull construction.
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wyz got a reaction from archjofo in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
Above are three pictures of the hull finally mounted on the building board. The first step was to locate and then drill holes in the building board where the extension supports would go. Then I had to measure and cut their heights down to where they suspended the hull exactly 1/16" above the building board. I did this step slowly and with great care so as to not go to far. It turned out perfect! The last of the 4 photos shows a closeup of the elevated keel.
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wyz got a reaction from ggrieco in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
The next step is to attach the temporary keel. You might ask why temporary? Well, the hull is to be shaped with a variety of hand and power tools. In some of my first bread and butter builds, no matter how hard I tried, I would always end up putting a nick, slice or gouge in the keel. Sadly, I did it more than once. Now it's really a no-brainer to use a temporary one. For this build I decided to switch from using a yellow poplar temporary keel secured with thin birch dowels to a hard maple one attached with 1" long #6 flat head screws. The yellow poplar temporary keels were not very strong and I've had them break in the past where they are more loosely secured in the bow and stern. First I draw the keel width on the hull with a #2 pencil. They are drawn a hair wider on each side so that I can more easily see them when I screw on the keel. I drill the holes in the keel first and then countersink them so the screws don't stick out. Once one screw is in I align the keel to the hull, hold it in place, and then drill through the keel into the hull. Then I put a screw in and move on down the hull repeating this step. At the foremost and aftermost places where the keel and hull touch I put a tiny drop of wood glue, and I do mean tiny.
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wyz got a reaction from ggrieco in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
Above are 5 photos, from various angles, of the glued up lifts with the extension arms attached.
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wyz got a reaction from Wintergreen in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
My Work Areas
I'm very fortunate to have not one but two shop rooms in my condo to build my models. The front room is where I do most of the construction and the back room is where I work when I'm making tons of wood dust. Even with this back room I still need to move the Jet dust filter from the front shop when I start shaping the hull with the templates.
Front Shop
Back Shop
When my next door neighbors decided to redo their kitchen I told them I could put their old cabinets to good use.
Above photo is a closeup of the sanding drum/thickness jig I made several years back. It works quite well.
Den
When I'm not in my shop I spend a lot of time in this room.
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wyz reacted to ggrieco in Heroine 1838 by ggrieco - FINISHED - Scale 1:24 - Western River Steamboat as she appeared before hitting a snag in the Red River
Thanks Mark, druxey, John and Bob,
Mark, although the flywheel didn't seem to show much damage, just about every other aspect of the machinery had extensive pre-wreck repairs. The paddle wheels were a mess with patches and shims barely holding them to their shafts. In fact, the flanges had slipped off of their hexagonal bosses and the resulting gap between the flange and shaft was packed with both wood and iron shims. The crew was using just about anything they could find to hold the flanges in place. We also have a piece of bent copper that was used as a makeshift replacement for one of the bronze shoes on the cross head. The cams were also improperly seated and just made contact with the edge of the cam frames. They were about about 3/4 of a inch away from slipping out of the frames and binding the whole system. Another repair that I left our was a stack of timbers under the outboard bearing of the port paddle wheel. With all the bearings in line, the outboard end of the deck beams were 12 to 14 inches below where they should be. As the guard sagged over time three timbers were added one by one under the bearing timber to compensate. The outboard end of the deck beams supporting the paddle wheels were probably very close to dragging in the water.
John, thanks for the correction, I'll keep it in mind when I experiment with the water.
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wyz reacted to captainbob in Heroine 1838 by ggrieco - FINISHED - Scale 1:24 - Western River Steamboat as she appeared before hitting a snag in the Red River
Your first diorama showing the wrecked Heroine in the sand is an amazing bit of artwork.
Bob
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wyz reacted to ggrieco in Heroine 1838 by ggrieco - FINISHED - Scale 1:24 - Western River Steamboat as she appeared before hitting a snag in the Red River
Thanks Greg,
I had a lot of fun building that one. I just wish we had the entire wreck at the time. I'll always look at it and think half of it is missing.
Glenn
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wyz reacted to dvm27 in Heroine 1838 by ggrieco - FINISHED - Scale 1:24 - Western River Steamboat as she appeared before hitting a snag in the Red River
Your weathered wreck is truly fine craftsmanship, Glen. It's so convincing it's hard to believe it's not the real ship.
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wyz reacted to EdT in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
Nice work so far, Tom. I too like to see some bread and butter work enter the fray. I found the Microplane to be a very good tool for hull shaping, leaving little dust and able to shape a softwood quickly hull right up to the 120-grit hand sanding stage. A little late for you at this stage, but maybe for later.
Ed
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wyz got a reaction from EdT in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
Hi Greg,
I'm glad you're enjoying the build. Its true, a large scale bread and butter Georgian style construction is not all that common. And for good reason, it's a labor intensive process that creates a mountain of wood dust. If you don't have a special shop room to help contain the dust and a good air filtration system it's not really doable. Most model builders would be looking at an ugly divorce if they tried it. ;-)
Tom
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wyz got a reaction from archjofo in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
With the hull mounted on the building board it could now be moved into the back shop where the hull shaping will take place. The first thing I did was take out my chisels, gouges and mallet to round the hull some. This is the roughest of the rough shaping. I further shaped the hull with a block plane. This was helpful in rounding out the rough shaped hull, but I could only do so much so fast with it. To speed the process I broke out my 4" x 24" Porter Cable belt sander with a 36 grit belt and tore into the hull. Sawdust went everywhere! With that sander and my Makita pad sander with 60 grit sandpaper I was able to finish up the pre-template shaping in short order. The two photos show the hull at this stage. Now the arduous job of shaping with the templates begins. Because so much saw dust is produced I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you use a dust mask and a room filter. In my condo I have to always remember to keep the three doors to the shops and basement closed. as the fine wood particulate has a magical way of getting into every room. Without question this is one of the major drawbacks to this method of hull construction.
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wyz got a reaction from Seventynet in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
Above are three pictures of the hull finally mounted on the building board. The first step was to locate and then drill holes in the building board where the extension supports would go. Then I had to measure and cut their heights down to where they suspended the hull exactly 1/16" above the building board. I did this step slowly and with great care so as to not go to far. It turned out perfect! The last of the 4 photos shows a closeup of the elevated keel.
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wyz got a reaction from Seventynet in HMS Camilla c.1776 by wyz - 1:48 scale - 20 gun post ship
The next step is to attach the temporary keel. You might ask why temporary? Well, the hull is to be shaped with a variety of hand and power tools. In some of my first bread and butter builds, no matter how hard I tried, I would always end up putting a nick, slice or gouge in the keel. Sadly, I did it more than once. Now it's really a no-brainer to use a temporary one. For this build I decided to switch from using a yellow poplar temporary keel secured with thin birch dowels to a hard maple one attached with 1" long #6 flat head screws. The yellow poplar temporary keels were not very strong and I've had them break in the past where they are more loosely secured in the bow and stern. First I draw the keel width on the hull with a #2 pencil. They are drawn a hair wider on each side so that I can more easily see them when I screw on the keel. I drill the holes in the keel first and then countersink them so the screws don't stick out. Once one screw is in I align the keel to the hull, hold it in place, and then drill through the keel into the hull. Then I put a screw in and move on down the hull repeating this step. At the foremost and aftermost places where the keel and hull touch I put a tiny drop of wood glue, and I do mean tiny.
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