jbelwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from ibozev in Building a kit for a profit
This question has come up many time in the model railroad hobby. The most common answer is to
charge 10 times the cost of the kit plus the cost of the kit it self if not supplied by the customer.
Therefore, a $300 kit (not uncommon in this hobby) would render $3300. There are many exceptions
to this depending on the complexity of the build. Just my two cents worth.
John
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jbelwood got a reaction from Obormotov in Completed Model Gallery is for Completed models only
What is the maximum size, or recommended size, for uploading?
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from Kurt Bainum in Portland by chborgm - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters
Hi Clarence,
Hope you don't mind but I thought I'd send some pics of my Portland as of today. After 16 months from the start, I finally got the hurricane deck painted and
temporarily in place. Age related medical issues have weakened my resolve but I'm still going forth. Thus far this seems to be the easier part of the build. The
instructions from here on are extremely lacking in detail. Also, the upper rub rail and remaining trim will be painted white as shown in photos of the prototype.
This has not been an easy challenge.
Be good my friend,
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from mstupey@gmail.com in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Finished the Portlands skylight. I started by making a pattern of the rabbeted base on a piece of manila folder.
Decided to have the vertical window framing 1/2" apart. Measured around the perimeter of the pattern and
drew a line every 1/2" and place a blue dot on each for identification.
Here you can more readily see the idea. At this point I painted the window wall with Floquil Engine Black. When dry,
I burnished it with a soft cloth which produced a nice sheen.
Fastened the pattern to the base with double sided tape and added the frame work. Used 1/32" x 1/16" bass wood strip along the base
and uprights. Used 1/32" square where the window wall meets under the roof.
Painted the roof Floquil CN Gray with a white stripe around the edge. Not glued down yet but here it is finished.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from coxswain in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Finished the Portlands skylight. I started by making a pattern of the rabbeted base on a piece of manila folder.
Decided to have the vertical window framing 1/2" apart. Measured around the perimeter of the pattern and
drew a line every 1/2" and place a blue dot on each for identification.
Here you can more readily see the idea. At this point I painted the window wall with Floquil Engine Black. When dry,
I burnished it with a soft cloth which produced a nice sheen.
Fastened the pattern to the base with double sided tape and added the frame work. Used 1/32" x 1/16" bass wood strip along the base
and uprights. Used 1/32" square where the window wall meets under the roof.
Painted the roof Floquil CN Gray with a white stripe around the edge. Not glued down yet but here it is finished.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from JerryC in Revell Queen Mary ll, 1/400, review or build needed
Thanks for your inputs, hexnut and burnside63. Oddly enough my friend has met Len Roberto and
found that Len lives locally. Len built the ship a few years back and has since sold it.
John
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jbelwood got a reaction from schooner in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Finished the Portlands skylight. I started by making a pattern of the rabbeted base on a piece of manila folder.
Decided to have the vertical window framing 1/2" apart. Measured around the perimeter of the pattern and
drew a line every 1/2" and place a blue dot on each for identification.
Here you can more readily see the idea. At this point I painted the window wall with Floquil Engine Black. When dry,
I burnished it with a soft cloth which produced a nice sheen.
Fastened the pattern to the base with double sided tape and added the frame work. Used 1/32" x 1/16" bass wood strip along the base
and uprights. Used 1/32" square where the window wall meets under the roof.
Painted the roof Floquil CN Gray with a white stripe around the edge. Not glued down yet but here it is finished.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Twelve inch to the foot dinghy
I love the looks and beautiful lines of your boat. Is she scratch built from plans?
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jbelwood got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Old Floquil paints?
Spent the past 6 months searching for a bottle of Floquil Brass paint for the paddle boxes on my
Bluejacket Portland. Visited a long time friend last week and noticed he had a cache of about 400
bottles of various paints acquired over the years that were no longer needed. I therefore dug in and
came out with 3 unopened bottles of Floquil Brass paint. Life is good.
John
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jbelwood got a reaction from robdurant in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Finished the Portlands skylight. I started by making a pattern of the rabbeted base on a piece of manila folder.
Decided to have the vertical window framing 1/2" apart. Measured around the perimeter of the pattern and
drew a line every 1/2" and place a blue dot on each for identification.
Here you can more readily see the idea. At this point I painted the window wall with Floquil Engine Black. When dry,
I burnished it with a soft cloth which produced a nice sheen.
Fastened the pattern to the base with double sided tape and added the frame work. Used 1/32" x 1/16" bass wood strip along the base
and uprights. Used 1/32" square where the window wall meets under the roof.
Painted the roof Floquil CN Gray with a white stripe around the edge. Not glued down yet but here it is finished.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from mtaylor in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Thanks Nic. Next up is either the walking beam or the officers quarters.
John
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jbelwood got a reaction from mtaylor in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Finished the Portlands skylight. I started by making a pattern of the rabbeted base on a piece of manila folder.
Decided to have the vertical window framing 1/2" apart. Measured around the perimeter of the pattern and
drew a line every 1/2" and place a blue dot on each for identification.
Here you can more readily see the idea. At this point I painted the window wall with Floquil Engine Black. When dry,
I burnished it with a soft cloth which produced a nice sheen.
Fastened the pattern to the base with double sided tape and added the frame work. Used 1/32" x 1/16" bass wood strip along the base
and uprights. Used 1/32" square where the window wall meets under the roof.
Painted the roof Floquil CN Gray with a white stripe around the edge. Not glued down yet but here it is finished.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from mtaylor in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Over the centuries many thousands of ship modelers have had to step many masts. There must be endless
ways of doing this. I my case this is a first. As a life long model railroader I have few tools to address this. I
do however have a 50 year old Dremmel drill press. I had to step the mast atop the skylight at 90 degrees
to the deck and raked back at 5 degrees.
I first cut a piece of black foam core to a 5 degree angle and used it as reference to afix a piece of scrap wood
to the drill press base. I slid a piece of scrap under that to get the proper angle. Then held it in place by hand
and drilled a few holes until I got it right.
Then inserted the 1/8" dowel to determine if my measurements were correct. They apparently were.
The next step was a challenge. Took me an hour to clamp the skylight to the base correctly so that the
bit wouldn't wander. Had to be correct at first shot.
The end result was perfect. The mast lined up exactly with the center line of the ship.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Finished the Portlands skylight. I started by making a pattern of the rabbeted base on a piece of manila folder.
Decided to have the vertical window framing 1/2" apart. Measured around the perimeter of the pattern and
drew a line every 1/2" and place a blue dot on each for identification.
Here you can more readily see the idea. At this point I painted the window wall with Floquil Engine Black. When dry,
I burnished it with a soft cloth which produced a nice sheen.
Fastened the pattern to the base with double sided tape and added the frame work. Used 1/32" x 1/16" bass wood strip along the base
and uprights. Used 1/32" square where the window wall meets under the roof.
Painted the roof Floquil CN Gray with a white stripe around the edge. Not glued down yet but here it is finished.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from RFP in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Finished the Portlands skylight. I started by making a pattern of the rabbeted base on a piece of manila folder.
Decided to have the vertical window framing 1/2" apart. Measured around the perimeter of the pattern and
drew a line every 1/2" and place a blue dot on each for identification.
Here you can more readily see the idea. At this point I painted the window wall with Floquil Engine Black. When dry,
I burnished it with a soft cloth which produced a nice sheen.
Fastened the pattern to the base with double sided tape and added the frame work. Used 1/32" x 1/16" bass wood strip along the base
and uprights. Used 1/32" square where the window wall meets under the roof.
Painted the roof Floquil CN Gray with a white stripe around the edge. Not glued down yet but here it is finished.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Finished the Portlands skylight. I started by making a pattern of the rabbeted base on a piece of manila folder.
Decided to have the vertical window framing 1/2" apart. Measured around the perimeter of the pattern and
drew a line every 1/2" and place a blue dot on each for identification.
Here you can more readily see the idea. At this point I painted the window wall with Floquil Engine Black. When dry,
I burnished it with a soft cloth which produced a nice sheen.
Fastened the pattern to the base with double sided tape and added the frame work. Used 1/32" x 1/16" bass wood strip along the base
and uprights. Used 1/32" square where the window wall meets under the roof.
Painted the roof Floquil CN Gray with a white stripe around the edge. Not glued down yet but here it is finished.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from coxswain in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Over the centuries many thousands of ship modelers have had to step many masts. There must be endless
ways of doing this. I my case this is a first. As a life long model railroader I have few tools to address this. I
do however have a 50 year old Dremmel drill press. I had to step the mast atop the skylight at 90 degrees
to the deck and raked back at 5 degrees.
I first cut a piece of black foam core to a 5 degree angle and used it as reference to afix a piece of scrap wood
to the drill press base. I slid a piece of scrap under that to get the proper angle. Then held it in place by hand
and drilled a few holes until I got it right.
Then inserted the 1/8" dowel to determine if my measurements were correct. They apparently were.
The next step was a challenge. Took me an hour to clamp the skylight to the base correctly so that the
bit wouldn't wander. Had to be correct at first shot.
The end result was perfect. The mast lined up exactly with the center line of the ship.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from norm1116 in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Over the centuries many thousands of ship modelers have had to step many masts. There must be endless
ways of doing this. I my case this is a first. As a life long model railroader I have few tools to address this. I
do however have a 50 year old Dremmel drill press. I had to step the mast atop the skylight at 90 degrees
to the deck and raked back at 5 degrees.
I first cut a piece of black foam core to a 5 degree angle and used it as reference to afix a piece of scrap wood
to the drill press base. I slid a piece of scrap under that to get the proper angle. Then held it in place by hand
and drilled a few holes until I got it right.
Then inserted the 1/8" dowel to determine if my measurements were correct. They apparently were.
The next step was a challenge. Took me an hour to clamp the skylight to the base correctly so that the
bit wouldn't wander. Had to be correct at first shot.
The end result was perfect. The mast lined up exactly with the center line of the ship.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Over the centuries many thousands of ship modelers have had to step many masts. There must be endless
ways of doing this. I my case this is a first. As a life long model railroader I have few tools to address this. I
do however have a 50 year old Dremmel drill press. I had to step the mast atop the skylight at 90 degrees
to the deck and raked back at 5 degrees.
I first cut a piece of black foam core to a 5 degree angle and used it as reference to afix a piece of scrap wood
to the drill press base. I slid a piece of scrap under that to get the proper angle. Then held it in place by hand
and drilled a few holes until I got it right.
Then inserted the 1/8" dowel to determine if my measurements were correct. They apparently were.
The next step was a challenge. Took me an hour to clamp the skylight to the base correctly so that the
bit wouldn't wander. Had to be correct at first shot.
The end result was perfect. The mast lined up exactly with the center line of the ship.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from etubino in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Just thought I'd throw this photo in for something different. Perhaps the most
photographed scene on my layout.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from etubino in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Hi there Norm,
Thanks for all those photos. I've heard many very positive comments about the museum from fellow modelers
who have visited there. From your many photos, I can see why.
I have yet to get back to the Portland. My overall health has slipped to a point where the passion to build has
diminished considerably. I did finish the trestle however.
Although it doesn't show, there are 374 pieces in this model, all cut from sprues. I estimate 70+ hours of work. It is to
be installed on a friends Northern Pacific layout over Elwood Gulch. You couldn't pay me to build another one.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from etubino in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
My current project brings me back to my first love of model railroading. The below image shows an HO scale steel trestle
and scenery that I built for a client some 15 years ago. I am currently building the same trestle kit (Micro Scale Models) but
in a longer (270') and higher (87') version for a close friend. Scenery to be added is yet another story. Quite a departure from
the Portland, I'd say.
John Elwood
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jbelwood got a reaction from etubino in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Over the centuries many thousands of ship modelers have had to step many masts. There must be endless
ways of doing this. I my case this is a first. As a life long model railroader I have few tools to address this. I
do however have a 50 year old Dremmel drill press. I had to step the mast atop the skylight at 90 degrees
to the deck and raked back at 5 degrees.
I first cut a piece of black foam core to a 5 degree angle and used it as reference to afix a piece of scrap wood
to the drill press base. I slid a piece of scrap under that to get the proper angle. Then held it in place by hand
and drilled a few holes until I got it right.
Then inserted the 1/8" dowel to determine if my measurements were correct. They apparently were.
The next step was a challenge. Took me an hour to clamp the skylight to the base correctly so that the
bit wouldn't wander. Had to be correct at first shot.
The end result was perfect. The mast lined up exactly with the center line of the ship.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from robdurant in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Over the centuries many thousands of ship modelers have had to step many masts. There must be endless
ways of doing this. I my case this is a first. As a life long model railroader I have few tools to address this. I
do however have a 50 year old Dremmel drill press. I had to step the mast atop the skylight at 90 degrees
to the deck and raked back at 5 degrees.
I first cut a piece of black foam core to a 5 degree angle and used it as reference to afix a piece of scrap wood
to the drill press base. I slid a piece of scrap under that to get the proper angle. Then held it in place by hand
and drilled a few holes until I got it right.
Then inserted the 1/8" dowel to determine if my measurements were correct. They apparently were.
The next step was a challenge. Took me an hour to clamp the skylight to the base correctly so that the
bit wouldn't wander. Had to be correct at first shot.
The end result was perfect. The mast lined up exactly with the center line of the ship.
John Elwood
Stratford, CT
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jbelwood got a reaction from mtaylor in Portland by jbelwood and norm1116 - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - abandoned
Nice to see you back Norm. Very few modelers are apparently interested in the Portland. Will try to post the mast installation
this evening. Not sure where I am going from here. Need to install the crew quarters and get the hurricane deck in place.
John
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