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JerryC

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    Millbrae CA

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    ck_jrry@yahoo.com

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  1. I was just reading the HMS Fubbs thread and wanted to mention a good resource for books, Alibris. I recently purchased Portia Takakjian’s ship modeling techniques for a good price. I am watching the Essex book and am ready to pick it up for $45 if it’s still available after payday. I don’t see a way to respond on the Fubbs thread and it’s a bit off topic anyway.

    1. Bob Cleek

      Bob Cleek

      Yes, I always check all the online used book dealers, not just Amazon. Amazon often has incredibly high prices. I think their software simply lists everything for whatever anybody is asking. People see the highest asking price on Amazon and then add a bit more when they list the same thing and it just feeds on itself.

       

      There was a time when there were bargains to be had if one searched the brick and mortar used bookstores. I picked up books worth two or three hundred bucks for ten or twenty bucks back in the day. Now, with the internet, it's a lot easier to find a given book you might be searching for, but the odds of the seller not knowing what the book is really worth are a lot less likely. More often than not, their prices are inflated on the basis of the "there's a sucker born every minute" principle. Fortunately, I've been collecting maritime reference works for some fifty years now and have everything I need, more or less. Some of the recent stuff, like Froelich's book, are real works of art and worth paying the price, but most are at least three-quarters full of information I've already got on hand from older books.

       

      I got Takakjian's Ship Modeling Techniques for $45.00. I thought that was high for what it was, but there just aren't all that many copies around, so I paid up for it. It's a "classic" that I wanted for the sake of completeness, but it is somewhat dated, as far as the techniques shown go. She straddled the "early period" of Davis and Underhill, and the "modern period" of tight tolerance machine tool building of plank on frame style models. If my luck is as it often is, somebody will issue a reprint in a couple of months and this time next year it will be selling new for $9.95! Oh well! 

       

      Bob Cleek

  2. I think you may have installed some of the bulkheads backwards, such as the intende forward side to the rear. Some kits advise having the forward bulkheads with the numbers on the face of the bulkhead facing forward and the bulkhead letters facing rearward. Doesn’t help with your difficulties at this point, but your getting great advice from others here.
  3. I happen to be a terrible painter, so I like blackening. It keeps all the details intact.
  4. Then, there’s the missing rabbet. I don’t have a suggestion about how to add one at this point so I’ll leave that for the more experienced members.
  5. Allen, I have no idea how to gauge the throughput. It would depend on a few variables such what constitutes a treenail, how often the thing jams, things like that.
  6. They currently do not offer the treenail maker, haven’t for years now. They have offered more than two sizes when they were still producing them. The cutters I have are .020, .028 and .031 I have seen a reference to an .035 also.
  7. Does anybody use the Royal Products treenail maker? I have Ave one and like it. They no longer produce them. I guess the demand isn’t there. I see a lot of posts here that ask “how can I fasten this to that” and I want to jump in and say “use a treenail” but, making treenail with a draw plate and some chopsticks is a task I wouldn’t wish on anyone. If there are enough people that are interested, perhaps Royal Products could be persuaded to make them. Or maybe Jim Byrnes could tackle it. It would slot in nicely with his product line. I don’t know about patents or copyright stuff that would need
  8. That’s a lot of space between frames, what will you be covering them with?
  9. I have a bunch of Floquil paints that I enjoy using. At the beginning of this thread there is a caution about shaking the paint. I’m wondering why? I have a little hobby paint shaker that I’ve been using and I like the results. It is pretty quick at blending the separated components.
  10. I have one of these that’s almost complete. I have enjoyed working on it so much that I bought another kit so that I can have a do-over. I used the copper nails included with the kit. I also found them to be out of scale and even purchasing additional nails wasn’t going to cut it. So, I moved on to copper wire. That worked out well. Then I bought some sterling wire from fire mountain gems that I will use on my next build. I figure if it tarnishes, it will be black. It’s stiff enough to push through drilled holes and soft enough to flatten with a punch and an anvil. I don’t have the skill
  11. I don’t see the need for filler, unless you want the practice! Just fill in the small square at the stern them smooth the whole thing out. It’s looking really good. I like the way you used the walnut down the center. Are you going continue that on the main deck?
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