davec

We continue to work! The cat also helps young masters... 

Matti! 1:20 scale. And this is a new team member! His name is Barsik!

In the steps of the mast, I laid a ring like this, the mast is fixed exactly in the center!

Today I worked hard!

Some more... If someone says that modeling is not a sport, it will be wrong! Back, legs and hands are buzzing!

I wonder how to celebrate your fiftieth anniversary? Early morning, me and Jack are already at work in the shipyard...

Yesterday in my house quietly knocked on the Muse! I went back to work on the Hyacinth!

Yes, indeed, I had the marks at the rabbet a smidge too high. I think they are parallel now. Easier to see in a photo than staring at the model itself. ..
Thanks again, Druxey.

A bit more progress as the remaining fore cants are now installed. Two machinist squares and a Q-tip hold things steady while cant #5 sets up.

Mike

Hello Fellow MSW Members 
 
I am going to attempt the Cross Section for my next build , this will be my third wooden boat model .So with that being said , don’t expect a master piece as I am a true novice. It took me a week at least to try and figure out what wood and how much  to purchase . I am sure I probably purchased more than needed but I figure what I don’t use on this build ,  I will someday on another I’m sure and to be honest some of what I ordered I didn’t plan on ordering but once I got on the site and started ordering, I couldn’t help it. 
 
 
Here is what I ordered:
 
while I  wait for my wood to arrive I have some teak and figured I’d play around and try my hand at building a cannon as I have never done one before . 
 
First I used a flashlight to trace the parts for the cannon, because I only printed on set and ran out of ink (well at least that’s what it’s telling me ,but seems like I just replaced the darn thing ) and didn’t feel like running to the store and I couldn’t talk the admiral into going.

 
i placed the print  down on the lens of the flashlight and put a piece of  card stock over it and used a colored pencil to trace the plan, I use a color pencil to be able to see that I didn’t miss anything. With black ink or pencil the image and pencil lines make it hard to see.


 
i then used exacto knife to cut out template.

 
using a a small amount of glue I glued the templates to a piece of teak I had already previously prepared to the proper thickness.

 
Using the scroll saw I cut out the templates in a general shape.
 
I then used files, sanding blocks,and sticks to finish 


 
 
Then I cut out some bits to make the front and rear axle spindals

 
 that’s where I’m at for the day .I will continue to work on the cannons while I patiently wait for my wood order .
I hope y’all will follow along on this adventure and help me out along the way 
 
Thanks 
Derek
 

Time has begun to work on the wales. I have clamped a batten to prove the upper edge, and will live with it a night to see if it still looks fair in the morning. You can see the snow piling up out the window; good time to work on the ship!
 
Mark
 
 

If I remember the story correctly, it would require a pea green boat, and I am too far along to consider a color change...tough luck for the cat! 
 
I did manage to glue in the waterway on the port side, masking the deck so the glue would not go astray. The ship cat did not help, since she was busy drinking out of the jar of water I was about to use to clean my glue brush. Can't get good help these days.
 
Mark
 
 
 

The metal work looks very good Maury.  Ed Tosti shows a good technique for lining them all up in his book, cannot recall if he has it in his log also.  he used a long pin through the gudgeons to align them, and if the pintles are then set straight all should be good.  I think he does top and bottom first if I recall.  Sorry if you were aware of this?
 
cheers
 
Pat

The rudder irons are on, and smeared the paint.  No surprise there.  Now that they are blackened, would they have been painted over?  Minor adjustments needed so the pintles fit easily into the gudgeons.

While I was at it, I test-fitted the tiller.  It clears the capstan bars well.  Along the spirketing in the background you can see the brackets to store the capstan bars.  Cleats above for a line to hold them in place.

 
Maury

Per,  The magnesia block is soft enough that you can use pins to hold pieces in place, stick parts into it while working, etc.  Powder sloughs off a bit and I assume it does not carry the risk of asbestos. 
Maury

Gudgeons + pintles.  I cut and shaped some brass strips.  The gudgeon has a small piece of brass tubing and the pintle has a brass rod in the centers for the rudder hinges.  I filed a "flat" on both the tubing and rod pieces, dabbed a bit of silver solder on each and held them in place with pins on the magnesia soldering block.  Silver soldering gives me plenty of strength for the joint.

They do not look complete, so I used some low temperature (438 degrees) silver solder (Home Depot, $6) to fill in and make it look more like a casting.

 
 
First attempt with the butane torch unbonded the tube so I went to my hot air machine, set it to 440 degrees and it worked  well.  A little filing and they look better. Blackening next.  Getting them to line up on the rudder and hull will be a challenge (big fingers, small parts).
Maury

Greg and David-
 
Order already placed.  I am very grateful for all the two for your important contributions to the hobby.  While I am disappointed that you are closing admiralty models, I am very happy that you plan to continue your tremendous workshops.    I have learned a huge amount from them, highly recommend them, and plan to attend future ones.  I thought the one earlier this week was awesome.   
 
I do plan a full Echo build - just need to get the cross section done first.  At three years for an ~6" cross section, how long should the whole build take?
 
Thanks!
 
Dave

Smart - and handsome too!

Thanks, everyone, for this help with the wing transom knees. 
I have completed the gundeck waterways, ready for installation. I have pondered whether I can get these glued and clamped within the 5 minute "open time" for Titebond Original glue. I consulted with the ship cat, and she agrees that it would be risky. So a trip to the store to find some Titebond III, with an "open time" of 10 minutes. Good thing to have a smart ship cat.
 
Mark

Greg and David-
 
Order already placed.  I am very grateful for all the two for your important contributions to the hobby.  While I am disappointed that you are closing admiralty models, I am very happy that you plan to continue your tremendous workshops.    I have learned a huge amount from them, highly recommend them, and plan to attend future ones.  I thought the one earlier this week was awesome.   
 
I do plan a full Echo build - just need to get the cross section done first.  At three years for an ~6" cross section, how long should the whole build take?
 
Thanks!
 
Dave

Thank you gentlemen.  The manropes without netting made more sense to me as well.  

Toni,
 
Very nice work.  As far as netting on the Forecastle, manropes would have been all that would be there as the netting would be in the way.  Some lines run to timberheads from outboard and some from inboard.  Either way, belaying would require wrapping around the timberhead.  Netting would be a problem I would surmise.
 
Best Regards,
 
Tom

The contemporary model of Amazon, 32 guns (RMG collection) shows these stanchions for manropes, but there is no line or netting.

Very nice Toni, can't help you directly with your question, but my current build (the 1850s, so much later) had stanchions with manropes and no nets.  I am not sure if that was an option in your build era?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Toni, the project is looking gorgeous!
Mark