davec

I've assembled as far as the end of step 1 and put together the HGW seatbelts. Four belts without any of the tiny photoetch parts shooting across the workshop, which is a victory for me.  

I picked this up again.  I've redone the frames and started planking.  I had some visible glue spots, but they seem to sand away with 320 paper, so I think this will come out ok with a clear finish instead of paint. 
 

Somewhere along the way I must have done something a little off because the sheer plank was about 1 mm short.  No pictures yet, but I debonded the too short planks and cut slightly longer ones.  Will post some more pictures once I bend and install the new planks.

I picked this up again.  I've redone the frames and started planking.  I had some visible glue spots, but they seem to sand away with 320 paper, so I think this will come out ok with a clear finish instead of paint. 
 

Somewhere along the way I must have done something a little off because the sheer plank was about 1 mm short.  No pictures yet, but I debonded the too short planks and cut slightly longer ones.  Will post some more pictures once I bend and install the new planks.

I've assembled as far as the end of step 1 and put together the HGW seatbelts. Four belts without any of the tiny photoetch parts shooting across the workshop, which is a victory for me.  

I've assembled as far as the end of step 1 and put together the HGW seatbelts. Four belts without any of the tiny photoetch parts shooting across the workshop, which is a victory for me.  

I picked this up again.  I've redone the frames and started planking.  I had some visible glue spots, but they seem to sand away with 320 paper, so I think this will come out ok with a clear finish instead of paint. 
 

Somewhere along the way I must have done something a little off because the sheer plank was about 1 mm short.  No pictures yet, but I debonded the too short planks and cut slightly longer ones.  Will post some more pictures once I bend and install the new planks.

I did remove and clean the ribs and glue with Titebond wood glue and then clamped.

I picked this up again.  I've redone the frames and started planking.  I had some visible glue spots, but they seem to sand away with 320 paper, so I think this will come out ok with a clear finish instead of paint. 
 

Somewhere along the way I must have done something a little off because the sheer plank was about 1 mm short.  No pictures yet, but I debonded the too short planks and cut slightly longer ones.  Will post some more pictures once I bend and install the new planks.

I’m a sailor and kind of a knot nerd, so I used buntline hitches on the halyard belays and boom or snuggle hitches on the gaff (for uphaul) and boom (for the mainsheet attachment).  The mess at the clew of the main I just made up and it looked right to me.

Added the spreader bar. Cut out the sides, glued and clamped them in place.

I did finish the boats. I didn’t finish the build logs because it just didn’t seem like any was following or looking at them since they not big four mast sailing ships. It just seems like that all everyone wants. But I should’ve finished them, sorry. Here’s pictures of the finished boats

Glued together the keelson, stemliner, stem support and bottom of the round stern.

Started the Wye River Models round stern today. Started by checking prints and parts

I've assembled as far as the end of step 1 and put together the HGW seatbelts. Four belts without any of the tiny photoetch parts shooting across the workshop, which is a victory for me.  

I did some work on the engine.  Biggest step forward for me was coming up with a way that works for me to wire the engine.  I had previously used EZ line, which I used on the distributor.  I have found this really hard to work with - it is so thin and soft that my fine forceps don't grasp it, and it takes a while for superglue to dry on it, so usually I made a mess.  I ordered some .2 mm lead wire and used it between the spark plugs and the pipe the wires run through.  It worked great.  I did not show the other side, which was my first attempt and where the wires are too long, the bends too sharp, and there is some visible glue.  This side I got the length right and bends that look realistic.  I found the wire much easier to work with than EZ line and I think looks a lot better.  The manifold hides a lot of the wires, but the first and third are pretty easy to see.  The engine will mostly be covered by the cowl panels, but this was a good learning experience and a path forward for my next plane with a more visible engine.

 
Anyone planning on building the D scheme (Mike) or any of the other variants with the D.IIIa engine should be aware that there is an error in the instructions that is not in the errata on the WNW website.  The kit contains parts for Mercedes D.III and D.IIIa engines.  The main difference between the variants is the right side of the cylinders.  The D.III engine uses parts E2 and E16.  The D.IIIa engine uses parts E25 and E16.  Unfortunately, the instructions for the D.IIIa has a picture of E25, but it is labeled E2.  I did not catch until long after the wrong part was glued in place.  Not an issue as I plan to build with the cowl covers in place, but it would be a problem if I wanted to leave the engine uncovered.
 

I am building the Nieuport 28 flown by then Lieutenant and later Captain Eddie Rickenbacker in 1918.
 

 
The kit looks to be quite excellent with all appropriate markings:


 

 

 
I haven’t built a Roden kit before, but they look good and I’ve heard good things about them.
 

Great looking model - congratulations on finishing!!!

Great looking model - congratulations on finishing!!!

Great looking model - congratulations on finishing!!!

Wow!
Very satisfying progress.
I repaired all the damage done to guns, railings and those loose bits.
Added gun emplacements on the flight deck.

 
Assembled and added the deck crane.
It only took three hours!

 
Added the deck numbers.
Used Tamiya XF-63 German Grey.

 
Made and installed the Bomb Elevators. 

 
And added the planes!
After weathering each one with my trusty 'Panel Line Accent Color - Black".
 
 
 
The end is neigh!
(Build time to date is 339 hours)
I think I deserve a 🍺
Cheers,

I don't usually post anything on the weekend,
but, I've just nearly finished a BIG job.
About 22.5 hours' worth!

The deck is finished except for the big number 6s.
I added the PE to the recessed lines, etc.
Painted the PE using Tamiya XF-84 Dark Iron.
I masked and painted the flight deck lines.
It's so easy to say but you have to cut out all the 'dashes' first.
Accurately attach the masking sheets to the deck,
and then decide how to paint the 'dashes' without bleeding the paint.

 
The marker pen worked like a charm.

 

 
I'm happy with the result.
It's the right colour, weathered a little, has the PE done, and has the flight lines on it!
I used the following for the deck.

 
I'm a very happy chappy!

Next is painting the 6s, adding the island, planes and crew.
(Build time to date is 326.5 hours)
Cheers,

 

Great looking model - congratulations on finishing!!!

Great looking model - congratulations on finishing!!!

Great looking model - congratulations on finishing!!!

Great looking model - congratulations on finishing!!!