NMBROOK

Things are getting interesting now    I have tack glued some temporary stringers to keep all the frames plumb and true and placed a couple of key braces to keep things following the centreline.I had come up with a fancy jig design but sacked that as to be honest it was unnecessary and would only restrict access.The hull was then infilled from the gun deck upwards partway using Obechi simply because it is easy to sand and shape and the local modelshop happened to have some 1/4 inch sheets..These followed the shear,but the tops were then trimmed down so that they a parallel to the waterline below the top of the first upperwale.I won't call this a chainwale as the channels sit above this according to photos of the builders model.Some extensive draughting was required to sort theTransom side timbers as there is no frame here in Euromodels design,simply fresh air.The transom is still a flat block as this permits easy measuring and marking out.There is a 10mm arc in the transom face which will be added later,but is why there doesn't appear to any overhang of the stern counter at the moment.I want to fill the gaps between the frames to coincide with the top edge of the upper wale.The futtocks would have in reality finished lower down,but I am doing this for asthetics and then there won't be unsightly holes.The visible section of the upperframes and gunport linings will be in Pear to provide an interesting contrast to the boxwood.The 'combs' that provide an anchor for the upperframe sections and fill the gaps I chose to make from European boxwood to further highlight this detail.Rectangles that are horizontal and follow the centreline were cut form box making sure there was enough material to allow contouring to the hull lines later.These were then milled on the MF70 with 5mm wide slots to accomodate the upper frames.The slots are deep enough to ensure the base of the frames lie below the top of the wale and the top of the blocks are high enough to go above it.The idea being that once they are all in place,temporary wales will be attached and the shear marked and trimmed on the top of the combs.The rectangular blocks had the bulk stock removed after milling prior to gluing in place.Final shaping will be done when they are all inplace.I am concentrating on the aft section of one side as there is a temporary upright holding things true at the stern.When this section is complete,I can fit another upright the otherside of the centreline then remove the existing one.This will give me the access to work on the inside of the hull at the inside.I am trying to avoid fitting the transom framing until later as it will make sanding the inside much more awkward.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Ok update time After sorting the remaining deck supports I preceeded to mark the subdeck out on a piece of 1/16th ply.After cutting out,I began to establish the deck beam positions in order to mark where plank butts treenails etc would be.Refering to 'Restoration Warship',Richard Ensor states that common practice was to have one deck beam central to each gunport and one inbetween.I drew out the gunport positions of the gundeck and marked the beams then marked the other beams halfway inbetween.This design is completely different to that portrayed on the plans,sorry Euromodels but the internal structure just doesn't ring true.Yes I am still working to the plans for the internal layout,just not the beam placement.Another issue came to light in the fact that the long grating and main mast resulted in 5 consecutive beams being split.There is no way this would happen,so I have shortened the gratings to allow two beams to run right through,hence the deck infill at each end.After one or two trial runs and a little trimming,making sure nothing was tight on the pear frames,the deck was glued in place.I did remove the temporary ties across the frame tops to allow this and the deck had to be bent ALOT to get it to 'spring' in.There is still lots of shaping to do to the lower hull especially the stern which is simply a block at the moment.Thorough checks on symmetry will be carried out as the work progresses. 
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Ok something in a way of an update.The infill has been faired although the final touches will be applied after fitting the false deck and bow/stern blocks.The deck stringers have been fitted.The two scrap pieces screwed down provide temporary clamping due to the sheer on these stringers.Next job is finishing the deck edge supports from amidships to bow and the bow/stern filler pieces.Not much more to add that the pics don't explain.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Marc
Yes I am indeed a massive fan of Van de Velde's work and also the era of ships he portrays.I also have Lennox waiting in the wings for a later 'slot'.This will be scratchbuild using Richard Ensor's Restoration warship 'monograph'.Richard is a very talented artist and the book features many of his fantastic paintings of this era.
Regarding infilling the hull,this is common practice for me.I can build it without,but I feel you end up with a superior model with greater resistance to environmental changes if done correctly.After following the works of the Russian masters and many of them using building techniques that do not rely on just planking for the hull form,I think there is a lot of mileage using this technique.I had one build that endured a six year period of extensive rework on my house.This model was built in a conventional manner and due to the changes of environment it went through,it gave me a lesson in what can happen due to changes in humidity and temperature.As well as some very minor separation of plank joints,'ghosting' was present in places where some of the bulkheads were.This is due to timber movement and produces very small 'facets' infilling the hull prevents this.The infilling also prevents the wood from drying out completely from the inside,which does happen over years and the timber is weakened as a result.
The exception is my Caroline build.Because of the skeleton design,infilling would be very awkward.The hull is instead triple planked.My kit came with a choice of balsa or lime for the first planking.By planking first in balsa and saturating with thinned epoxy resin prior to fitting the second planking,this not only gave me rock solid base,but also a sealed skin to the inside of the planking to prevent drying out of the outer two layers.
I know my explanation was a bit 'long winded' but I think your question warranted a detailed explanation of my reasoning
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As I am organised for a change,I can provide pics of the box contents including one of the rather substantial exemplary drawings.The only thing not pictured is the false keel,one sheet of laser cut ply,a few assorted laser cut items and some blocks of wood.There is not massive amounts of laser cut plywood parts like other manufacturers,it is down to the builder to fashion parts from solid wood
Kind Regards Nigel

Thanks for the tips and comments about coppering, and a bit of history, Nigel. There is so little I have found about this ship, that every bit is very welcome.
 
Arthur: I didn't think of that. That is another option to think about. Appreciate it, my friend!

Excellent work Jeff I would imagine many of the details you are adding are not illustrated on the Panart plans.Unfortunately my reference material is the same as yours,however the plethora of images of her on google may answer your question
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Rather than hijack your log Ulises,if you google Royal Louis 1759 and 1758 you will find what I have so far.She was laid down in 1757 and launched in 59 which somewhat explains having to search more than one year.In google images there are several pictures of the museum model.Her relatively short career is the only explanation I can come up with why there is so little information on her.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Your planking is coming on great Ulises I have recently bought Mamoli's plans for this vessel and do propose to build her in 1/60.Other than cutting and assembling the skeleton,this build is a little in the future for me.
The mention of coppering is something I have been thinking of.Mamoli's model clearly represents the vessel of 1759 and is almost an exact replica of the model in the Paris museum.This vessel was wrecked whilst in drydock in 1772 after seeing active service in the seven years war.I am debating whether she would have actually ever been coppered as this was a little early for the French Navy.She certainly wouldn't have been when built.
I concur that this model in 1/90 is rather large particularly in breadth and having cut out half the bulkheads,in 1/60 it is huge!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Nigel,
 
I like that chequered floor Piece its very well done...
 
Nils

Hi Nigel,
 
The balcony decking looks great and will be a big improvement on the grating floor

Rather than hijack your log Ulises,if you google Royal Louis 1759 and 1758 you will find what I have so far.She was laid down in 1757 and launched in 59 which somewhat explains having to search more than one year.In google images there are several pictures of the museum model.Her relatively short career is the only explanation I can come up with why there is so little information on her.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Jason and Patrick
I have made scrapers in the past for mouldings Jason and had great success so all is not lost
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Rather than hijack your log Ulises,if you google Royal Louis 1759 and 1758 you will find what I have so far.She was laid down in 1757 and launched in 59 which somewhat explains having to search more than one year.In google images there are several pictures of the museum model.Her relatively short career is the only explanation I can come up with why there is so little information on her.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

One mini project I have been working on in conjunction with everything else,is what will be the floor of the balcony.I mentioned earlier that this was a grated deck,but I wanted something a little more visually appealing.
I have prebent a piece of 1.5mm Ebony on a jig and this was secured at the ends with some scrap boxwood and cyano.I have then tiled the upper surface with 4mm square boxwood and ebony.I haven't photographed the manufacturing techniques for this as it is covered in many other logs.A propose to apply a few light coats of Poly prior to removal and shaping.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

After the bands were fitted the jib boom was glued on. This brings me to a question.
 
Was the heel of the jib boom lashed to the bowsprit?
 
I cannot find any reference to it in any of the books I have, McKay's Anatomy, Longridge's Anatomy and Steel's Elements of Rigging. I also can't find any pictures of it on the actual ship. The instructions call for it to be put on but I don't trust them. I have left it off for now until I can do some more digging .
 
Any help greatly appreciated. 

Your planking is coming on great Ulises I have recently bought Mamoli's plans for this vessel and do propose to build her in 1/60.Other than cutting and assembling the skeleton,this build is a little in the future for me.
The mention of coppering is something I have been thinking of.Mamoli's model clearly represents the vessel of 1759 and is almost an exact replica of the model in the Paris museum.This vessel was wrecked whilst in drydock in 1772 after seeing active service in the seven years war.I am debating whether she would have actually ever been coppered as this was a little early for the French Navy.She certainly wouldn't have been when built.
I concur that this model in 1/90 is rather large particularly in breadth and having cut out half the bulkheads,in 1/60 it is huge!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Your planking is coming on great Ulises I have recently bought Mamoli's plans for this vessel and do propose to build her in 1/60.Other than cutting and assembling the skeleton,this build is a little in the future for me.
The mention of coppering is something I have been thinking of.Mamoli's model clearly represents the vessel of 1759 and is almost an exact replica of the model in the Paris museum.This vessel was wrecked whilst in drydock in 1772 after seeing active service in the seven years war.I am debating whether she would have actually ever been coppered as this was a little early for the French Navy.She certainly wouldn't have been when built.
I concur that this model in 1/90 is rather large particularly in breadth and having cut out half the bulkheads,in 1/60 it is huge!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Denis,
 
it really looks like the glue-swelling out went back over the week. Quite good that I did`nt remove it, otherwise there would be pits in the "skin" now....
 
I`m working at the decks in the waist areas now, after finding a supplier for wonderful precise cut mini pine planks 2 x 0,8 mm. The "caulking" is done with a soft dark pencil along the planks edges
 
Nils
 
 
 

 
a set of 300 fine cut pine-planks 2 x 0,8 mm
 
 

 
planked forward waist area
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
the lower aft waist deck stripes
 
 

 
will do the shrouds for the aft mast later on with buckle screw fastening / tensioning , therefore sufficient bases for anchoring points beneath the deck stripes
 
 

 
the promenade deck will cover these outcuts in the sides later on

It actually costs much less to buy it from Chuck. You would have to wind A LOT OF ROPE before it becomes economically feasible. Not to mention, having to shop for thread, learning to use the machine, botching up runs, and making the thread. For some on MSW, it may be worth it. But for me, I would much rather buy. 

One mini project I have been working on in conjunction with everything else,is what will be the floor of the balcony.I mentioned earlier that this was a grated deck,but I wanted something a little more visually appealing.
I have prebent a piece of 1.5mm Ebony on a jig and this was secured at the ends with some scrap boxwood and cyano.I have then tiled the upper surface with 4mm square boxwood and ebony.I haven't photographed the manufacturing techniques for this as it is covered in many other logs.A propose to apply a few light coats of Poly prior to removal and shaping.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Jason and Patrick
I have made scrapers in the past for mouldings Jason and had great success so all is not lost
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks to all for nice comments.
I added the top part of the planking above the wales with free space for decorative moldings.

Some further progress at the stern. First, I painted the counter planking  red. Then I cut the fashion pieces from a boxwood sheet, bent them to shape and glued them in place.
 
Bob

Hi Nigel

Wow!!! The chequerboard floor of the balcony is seriously good! Talk about precision.

Nice stuff.

Cheers

Patrick