NMBROOK

Hello Nils,

thank you for your positive response.  
Currently I build the long boat for the French corvette. This is the largest boat of La Creole, with a length of 8.5 m.
The following pictures show the first work steps:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HI All,
  Been making some progress on turning railings as I realized for the poop deck railings, I didn’t need as much height as for the entrance railings. This allowed me to cut off some of the bases so I could repurpose some of my earlier attempts. I then just cherry picked those pieces that matched reasonably well for height and shape. Railing was as usual slightly edge bent using heat to follow the poop bulwark’s curve. After gluing up, using the end of my ruler as a square to keep things as vertical as possible, I then finished the rails with a couple of coats of WOP.  Hopefully my test fit shows the completed railings pass at least the famous “looks OK from a galloping horse" test! Macro shot shows I need to even up a base or two.  Macro images are just plain tough...show up everything! Oh well...if at first you don't succeed...!    Final shot shows my new ‘rigging table”…which is my captain’s old play table which she has now completely outgrown. Height is about 20 in and is ~50in long by 33in wide so my little Dragon looks rather lost on it!     It also works great as a plan table.    The black chair is my old astronomy observing chair and is infinitely adjustable for height as the seat grips the back rails using a plastic friction bar. Needs a foot rest at the highest settings  (~36in so at least I do!) but again will work well for rigging w/o bending over or standing up for ever. I’ve not seen anyone mention these chairs before so figured I’d post in case it interests someone. They aren’t cheap, but I find mine sturdy and comfortable. Link below for those not into astronomy. Not done any checks for price so look around before you take the plunge if you like it.   https://www.astronomics.com/astronomy-viewing-chairs_c457.aspx   Thanks for reading and of course to those that hit the like button and made the kind comments. Support here on MSW is just great for us newbies!      Cheers,   Nigel.                    

Hi All,
 
Another small step forward as I’ve completed the four cabin doors other than adding the brass hardware as I am still waiting for the blackening solution to show up.  The doors were assembled from some 5mm walnut strips glued together and then cut to shape. The kit did not provide any door frames so I made these from some slightly thicker walnut sheet to try and provide some extra detail.  Each door was used as a template for its arch which was then roughly cut out from the walnut sheet before slowly filing it to fit. The doors by the mizzen mast are slightly shorter than the outer doors so they clear the poop deck edge trim. Their bottom edges were also sanded to follow the deck curve. 
  Thumbnails below and thanks for reading.   Cheers,   Nigel.      

Hi Gang.. Well I got some more done over the last few weeks and thought I'd best put a Photo Update on the Old Log-a-Majigger here.
 
I decided to paint the Ends of the Bowsprit.. The Whole of each Gaff.. The Ends of the Boom & the Mast 'Hounds'.
 
I fitted the Deck Rings for the Guns, though they probably won't be rigged.
 
And Last but not Least I fully assembled the Carronades and added the little 'Handle' for the Elevation Thread thingy & added the semi circular piece that the Carronade Bed 'rotates' on to the side deck of Ballahoo herself.
 
Next Up  Rig the Carronades.. I plan to only rig the Breech Rope & Side Ropes that pull the sledge to the firing position.. I suspect training such a small gun as this would have been accomplished by using a Bar to lever it around rather than using Training Tackles.. Ballahoo was only a small boat after all & built out in the 'Sticks'....  Any Thoughts on this Folks ?    I can change it easily enough !
 
Thoughts & Ideas always appreciated Folks.
 
 
All-Righty Then it's Photo Time Again..
 
All The Very Best
 
Eamonn
 

Hi mates,
 
 
Well it appears as though this bit is actually completed. Thanks for all of the nice words, Like clicks, or just dropping in.
 
A special thanks to Peter and Nigel for their so helpful suggestions, made such a difference.
 
The last pic was taken before any “fixes” what was I thinking? ha ha. Learned so much about this ship since “that” installation. As I look at it now I start to laugh. At the risk of being redundant, if it had not been for MSW, I would still be in a state of confusion (;-) 
 
OK, now onto the next three sheaves. I pulled out the old ones so there are holes in the deck.
 
PS: I won't bore you with pics of the setup. I'll post when it's done.
 
PS2 2: not crazy about those Corel knighthead figures. Decided not to repaint them but leave them "used" looking hmmmm
 
Regards,
 
 
Michael

Excellent work Michael!!!!!.It is just a case of getting your head around utilizing the dials and relating them to the required measurements.You will find the processes easier and cleaner with the dedicated proxxon fishtail milling bits though.They are designed to cut downwards as well as sideways.They also only have two flutes which reduces the chance of burning the wood and generally run cooler for longer.They do last a very long time so don't workout too expensive in the long run.Another advantage is that they fit in the collets instead of using the chuck.This virtually eliminates any run out inaccuracies enabling very high precision work.Only disadvantage is they only come in three sizes so multiple passes may be required if your slot isn't the same size as one of the cutters.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Excellent work Michael!!!!!.It is just a case of getting your head around utilizing the dials and relating them to the required measurements.You will find the processes easier and cleaner with the dedicated proxxon fishtail milling bits though.They are designed to cut downwards as well as sideways.They also only have two flutes which reduces the chance of burning the wood and generally run cooler for longer.They do last a very long time so don't workout too expensive in the long run.Another advantage is that they fit in the collets instead of using the chuck.This virtually eliminates any run out inaccuracies enabling very high precision work.Only disadvantage is they only come in three sizes so multiple passes may be required if your slot isn't the same size as one of the cutters.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for all of your kind remarks, very nurturing indeed.
 
This post will be long winded, but I hope that my frustrations will help some others; I having learned so much from so many of you.
 
Well another attempt at that pesky knighthead. This time I tried to do just a lamination without any grooves, and after sanding and shaping would again try my luck with the Proxxon. Followed Nigel’s excellent “how to” lesson, and started feeling good the grooves looked to be taking their proper shapes.
 
The front side looked “ok”. Flipped it over and the grooves were all out of alignment. Hmm, then realized that my pre-shaping resulted in the piece being off square. This, off course resulted in another failure with the innocently abused Proxxon.
 
So now feeling more informed, cut a fresh piece of wood and had the Proxxon go back to work with newly gained operator knowledge. Well “I’ll be” looked as if I knew what I was doing for a change.
 
After subsequent sanding and adjusting to fit in the weather-deck hole I was able to adjust the outer shape to better match the grooves.
 
So, I’m relieved and have learned so much with this small bit, but also gained needed confidence, after four attempts Oh My!!. Now onto the others…..pieces of cake -- ha ha.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael
 
 

Hey all! I've been trying to work out the lines. To be able to continue with the other decks, I needed to plank the first one. As I'm building it by eye, I need to see the other decks in place before preparing for a mast and gratings. A bit backward.
 
Also started on the stern shape. 
 

 

 

 
 
 
/Matti

Just a heads up,Model-dockyard in the UK have this kit in stock now.A few pence shy of £370 before someone asks
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

After experimentation and actually using this technique on my Mordaunt build,I decided I would post a small tutorial of this system I developed due to the interest it caused.
Whilst I am not reinventing the wheel,this is a variation I adopted on the common method of using black paper.There are disadvantages with using black paper,firstly,that it reduces the glue penetration in a joint and secondly,it can appear too thick at the smaller scales.Some may say,the strength is not an issue for planking on a false deck,fair point,but I wanted a system that could be used for all joints where some caulking or similar would be used.This would include scarph joints in the keel where strength is important.
There are many similarities in techniques between using paper and tissue,but there are small differences caused by the delicate nature of the tissue.
This is a pic of the lower gun deck on Mordaunt using this technique.The timber is Pear and the planks are 6mm wide max(the planking is tapered)

To demonstrate the technique,I will be planking a small deck section that goes under the main deck hatches on Norske Love.This piece doubles up as part of the structure and is made from 6mm birch ply.No camber is incorporated as this will be unnoticeable as the only real view is through a companionway.It does have some shear and this is conveniently catered for by the bow the ply has attained,being stood in the corner of the workshop for several months.
The planks are cut from 3mm boxwood sheet.Cutting from the edge of the sheet,using the thickness as the plank width,helps maintain consistency.I cut the planks @1.5mm thick.To me this is less important as the deck will be scraped/sanded smooth.All gluing is done using Deluxe Materials Aliphatic Resin.The black tissue paper is acid free and bleed resistant.I obtained mine from WHSmith in the UK and can be found in the present wrapping section.

A section of tissue was placed on a small piece of clean glass.Glue was added to one side and one end of the plank.The plank is placed edge down on the tissue,ensuring the tissue develops no creases and the plank is firmly down on the glass.I then slice the tissue with a new scalpel blade to form a 'finger' that can be curled up on the plank end.The process is repeated until you have a good quantity of planks 'edged'.
]
When the glue goes clear,but not fully set,slice through the paper between the planks.The individual planks will simply break off the glass with a little twisting pressure.The tissue should remain intact on the plank.Whilst the glue is still in the 'green' stage (a bit like cheese as it hasn't fully hardened),carefully trim the tissue flush with the plank faces.Keep the scalpel blade cutting toward the plank,not away as this can drag pieces of tissue off the edge.You can wait until the glue has hardened overnight,but I found this much harder and more time consuming.

Lay the planks in a conventional manner,ensuring to keep the tissue covered faces going the same way.I brush over the surface with a small wetted paintbrush.This consolidated any glue that has oozed out and is added insurance against the tissue dragging with the sanding and scraping.

 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks for dropping in Nigel,
and thanks for your nice appreciation
 
its good to hear from you again, hope all is well on your side (job and house moving related....)
 
Nils

You are off to a great start Nils,on what is a beautiful vessel
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

You are off to a great start Nils,on what is a beautiful vessel
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hello Shipmates, Elia-Slog-Lawrence-Edwin-Nigel-Greg-Mike-Salty dog, thank you very much for your likes, comments and also for passing by. As I said above summer has arrived....and the weather is not suitable for ship building..     So I don't have much to show, only some little progress on the 1st boat.. :)
 
Cheers
Dimitris

Hello Shipmates, Elia-Patrick-Greg-Boyd-Bob-Edwin-Tasmanian-Nigel-Frank-Rich I do thank you for your nice words and comments!!! :) Summer has arrived to Greece (temperature is 30 plus degrees Celsius) so more time to spend outside.Little progress regarding the ship. I installed the starboard stair and wooden stanchions and I just  begun to build the 1st boat out of ten :( !!
 
Kind Regards
Dimitris

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for your supportive comments, very nice of you to add your thoughts. They are always such a source of encouragement.
 
So Plan B on the sheaves; the laminating idea, here are a few pics.
 
PS: without a sanding wheel/belt this would have never turned out. Looks OK, though it sits a bit too high on the deck, needs to be lowered a bit, along with needing two more pulleys, and hardware.
 
PS 2: Plan C is coming up (last pic). I was so completely annoyed at myself for not correctly using the Proxxon MF70, that I fashioned a third sheave, and will give it another go.
 
I will follow Nigel’s sage advice and try this again. Again Nigel, we know that you are so busy, thanks for taking the time to give instructions on the proper procedure. LOL.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael

Your build is coming on well Michael Sorry to hear of your sheave woes.When I cut them on the miller.I do not drill holes first.If you cut slots in depth stages of 0.5 to 1mm,working backwards and forwards increasing the depth of cut each time,it should work without problems.Another tip if you have three slots equal about centre,is to cut the central one first,then use the table dials to measure the offset of the other two.I invariably mill halfway from each side,otherwise the shank of the bit may burn the wood.It helps to have a datum,e.g. the top of the workpiece is flush with the side of the miller vice.
Hope this may help in some way.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Great work Nigel
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi All,
  To provide a little break from turning the multitude of posts I need for all the railings (rather slow going right now ), I decided to assemble the cannons. The macro shots are very unforgiving, but at normal viewing distances, they don't look so bad. I am thinking about trying to drill out the mouths and perhaps try to smooth out the cast lines to clean them up a bit.  Chuck has replacements if I mess up as I certainly doubt I can turn my own right now!  Casey’s brass blackening solution is also now on its way so I can add the brass hardware to the carriages and the other details like the windlass bars to the other deck furniture.    Thumbnails below as usual and thanks for reading. Slowly, but surely she is taking shape  .   Cheers,   Nigel.                  

Hi All,
  Next up on the deck furniture is to make the various railing and posts. AL provides some simple square stock to make these, but I figured it would be fun to try turning the posts using my new lathe. It would at least give me some practice before I have to try tapering my masts.     I made a template for the posts from some copper sheet, following the method Janos posted in post #159 in KeithW’s great Royal William log. Probably should have found some brass or steel as the copper didn’t seem to hold much of an edge. I then used the template to shape each post after turning down the 3mm walnut strip.   Janos's post: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7195-hms-royal-william-by-keithw-euromodel-172/page-8   After a bunch of practice runs, I made up one of the starboard railings using the more presentable posts. Seems the technique will work with more practice. I am also thinking I need to add more posts as the gaps look a bit wide.   Thumbnails below.   Cheers,   Nigel.            

Hi All,
 
Past week or so has been spent learning how to make acceptable ladders. Without a mill or table saw to keep things 100% true, this proved a very challenging given my current woodworking skills. 
 
I tried several jigs and methods and in the end I used the basswood jig shown below to cut small tread support structures and then the treads to keep everything consistent. 3mm supports seemed to be correct for the Dragon's 1:60 scale to hold a decent tread separation.  I tried 5mm, but these only allowed 5 treads for the completed ladder so the scale looked wrong. The support structures were then glued on to the side rails using a dummy tread to separate the supports consistently on the side rail and hold the needed right angle between the support and the tread. Final adjustments were done by eye as the two sides of the ladder were assembled.
 
Thumbnails are below showing the jig with the individual pieces cut, my various learning attempts and the final version to the far right. Kit ladders are to the far left showing the problems I had with their misaligned pre-cut slots. Final picture is from my test fit of the pair of ladders against the poop deck. Overall I am pretty happy with the way these look now...they are at least better than I could manage using the kit ladders.  . Macro shots show I still have to tweak the port ladder to fully correct for the deck curvature.
 
As always, thanks for reading and for all the kind comments and likes.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

HI All,
 
Last few evenings I spent entertaining myself trying to learn to carve.  The idea of those stickers has been rather bugging me!
 
Process I used was to just photocopy the stickers and glue them onto a basswood sheet. I then just slowly chipped out the wood around the pattern until it released. Then using the sticker as a guide, I slowly added in some basic detail using my smallest knife and different shaped needle files.  Seems that the basic process will work, but I will need a lot of practice before I can make something that will be clean enough to use.  Practice makes perfect as always I guess!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

 

Hi All,
  Continue to enjoy putting the decking furniture together. Large and small windlasses are assembled, with the next step being to drill the holes for the various bars.  Mizzen and main mast bitts were also assembled.   My first try at a ladder however leaves a lot to be desired! I’ve no idea how I got the fourth tread so badly misaligned after getting the first three to look reasonable, especially as the side supports had laser cut grooves. Some corrective surgery is called for!  At least the second ladder looks better…I now need to figure out how to add some handrails.   I also started to look at the ships boat which is just a piece of rough machine carved basswood w some plywood bow and stern end pieces  Um….so I've taken a couple of tries at making a small keel to learn how to build something from scratch. Not good enough yet, but still fun.   The other entertaining item is the bow and stern decorations are.....stickers! Looks like Iearning how to carve is in my future….   Enjoy your weekend everyone!    Cheers   Nigel.                      

Hi All,
  Most of the time this week has been spent scrapping all the surfaces to remove any residual glue. This residue seems to show up as a lighter film after the poly is applied and was especially noticeable on the darker walnut trim. Still seem to be a few lighter areas which need some work, but finish is looking a lot more even now. The bulwark and stern tree nailing was also finished off before a few coats of wipe on poly per applied w steel wool being used to lightly smooth down the surfaces between coats.   I then made a start on the fun decking stuff....nothing is glued in yet, they are just placed on the deck to see how they are looking. The deck supports for the masts and rear flag pole were sanded and poly’ed.  Deck hatch covers were made up and also poly'ed, but I’ll probably have to redo these as the planking lines look a bit uneven. Finally I made a prototype of the poop deck mizzen capstan. I still have to drill the dowel to attach the brass capstan bars. Looks like it is time to order the brass blackening solution now.   Thumbnails below and as usual thanks for reading and the likes.   Cheers,   Nigel.