NMBROOK
-
Posts
2,305 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
NMBROOK reacted to Sjors in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Wow, that looks great !!!!!!
Sjors
-
NMBROOK reacted to Mirabell61 in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:64 - 16-gun sloop
set of oars is complete, trial pulling in the Harbor basin can now be done
wishing a happy and relaxing Christmas time to all fellow builders, and NMSW Administration staff, and with best regards
Nils
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from cog in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK reacted to Mirabell61 in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:64 - 16-gun sloop
an anchoring device for securing boat to the strand....
the little dreggen anchor from the Amati photo etch sheet is really too small, so I soldered my own one from brass, 16 mm long and appr. 15mm diam. over the four pikes
the midget anchor was considered too small (bottom left
boat has fallen dry at Cornwalls Atlantic coast
anchor hooked over the sheer capping
Nils
-
NMBROOK reacted to Mirabell61 in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:64 - 16-gun sloop
Build log part 70
the little gig is now complete, first prototype for the oars is made
oar length appr. 2,3 the max beam width
oar shaft diam. 2mm, made from bamboo, could be a bit less but risk of breaking under rounding the shaft
fits in for the "HMS Pegasus" space on the gallows (in actual it would be a 28 ft gig).
I`ll better have to take off the rudder (hook it out)
Nils
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from GuntherMT in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Ferit in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from hexnut in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK reacted to tarbrush in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
that's just amazing Nigel!
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Timmo in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I carefully reduced the thickness of the complete grating to just over 1mm using a mini sanding disc in my Proxxon IB/e.The grating was then wetted and clamped to a plywood former with slightly more than the required radius.The Ebony frame was then assembled around the grating using 30min epoxy.
After leaving overnight to dry,everything was sanded back to the required shape and size.The final two pics show the grating slotted in place on the deck.Final gluing will not happened until all 'treenailing' and sanding has been carried out.
A change of direction now as work is going to concentrate on Royal Caroline's guns.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from tarbrush in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Only a small update,but otherwise I may end up missing a step or two.I have had a slight change of plan in that I am going to curve the gratings rather than sand the shape on the top face.This came about after I thinned the grating down and realised it should be a reasonably easy task to shape in a jig with the application of water.
I plan to get the full thickness down to a little over 1mm.This should give a 'finer' scale appearance.I have begun work on the forward combing.This is sawn from an ebony billet and the rebate added on the tablesaw before cutting into sections.The mitres were sized using the bench disc sander rather than attempting to cut these with the saw.
One of the athwartship sections has had the rebate extended to match the curve of the grating underside.This was done with scalpel and a jewellers file.All external faces at present are oversize,these will be cut after assembly.
The reason I chose to mitre instead of replicate the original joints it purely for cosmetic reasons.The joints will be invisible in the finished ebony,but I can achieve a better finish with no exposed endgrain on the corners.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK reacted to marsalv in Royal Caroline by marsalv - FINISHED - Panart
Installation of lower yard jeer tye blocks and top final assembly. Slowly it begins to take shape.
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from CaptainSteve in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Only a small update,but otherwise I may end up missing a step or two.I have had a slight change of plan in that I am going to curve the gratings rather than sand the shape on the top face.This came about after I thinned the grating down and realised it should be a reasonably easy task to shape in a jig with the application of water.
I plan to get the full thickness down to a little over 1mm.This should give a 'finer' scale appearance.I have begun work on the forward combing.This is sawn from an ebony billet and the rebate added on the tablesaw before cutting into sections.The mitres were sized using the bench disc sander rather than attempting to cut these with the saw.
One of the athwartship sections has had the rebate extended to match the curve of the grating underside.This was done with scalpel and a jewellers file.All external faces at present are oversize,these will be cut after assembly.
The reason I chose to mitre instead of replicate the original joints it purely for cosmetic reasons.The joints will be invisible in the finished ebony,but I can achieve a better finish with no exposed endgrain on the corners.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from Markicorbett@aol.com in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
I think you have pretty much hit the nail on the head there Geoff There wasn't and still isn't any clubs for modelers specialising in wooden period ships in the UK.We have always been second class to RC models ( although I should point out I do that as well).There were only two builders known to many,Keith Julier and Chris Watton.Kit makers were never bothered about how the shortcomings of their product,most were never finished.
Things have changed so much since I started and they are changing even faster now.Everyone is willing to share there techniques and we all benefit.No matter whether it is modelmaking or something else,being able to bounce ideas off people is far more productive than solitary head scratching
So my answer is no,I wouldn't have expected to have so many friends around the world to share ideas with,even more so,is probably about half I couldn't hold a conversation with,without the translator.
Kind Regards
Nigel
-
NMBROOK reacted to Maury S in Mast from Admiralty Models Workshop
Some more time on the mast in the last few days. The mast bands are black acid-free paper. They will be painted with an "Iron Black" paint. The battens are filed out to allow for them to fit over the mast bands. Two on each side, clamped while glue dries. Cap drilled, simulated bolts installed and the eyebolts made and installed.
The mast tree parts were sanded to thickness and cut on the Byrnes table saw. Interlocking notches carefully laid out and cut. Bolt holes drilled. The cross tree notches were cut last after the trestle trees were held in place against the mast top. Getting close to the end. Some more bolts need installing and the bibs need attaching. I'm not sure if I'll build the platform.
Maury
-
NMBROOK reacted to Maury S in Mast from Admiralty Models Workshop
I mixed Yellow ocher, some orange and white...not right. Second Mate gave me the proportions she uses for flesh tones including some green. Eventually it came close enough. Thin strips of a piece of a manila folder and the first three bands are done. I'll touch up the joints with a dab of paint.
-
NMBROOK reacted to Maury S in Mast from Admiralty Models Workshop
The head of the mast has been built up (timbers added to each side) and tapered to the appropriate lines. The seams were highlighted with soft pencil lines to simulate tar. I tried using copper for the bands, but once formed to shape, they could not be slid up over the top for soldering so I reverted to (acid free) paper. I used the same paper I used for tarring the keel on the Echo section. I still may paint them with the "Iron black" I have (if it's not dried out). I started on the wooldings. First one took a little work holding the first wrap in place, but the next two went smoothly. Three more to go. I used Syren Ship Model Brown line (.018"). That's very close to the 2 1/2" diameter line called for in the instructions. Still trying to figure how I'm going to make the wooden bands above and below the wrapings. I have some chisel shavings I've cut down that may work, or I could sand a wood strip down to .0312" square and steam / heat bend it around the mast. David used card stock painted to match the Costello Boxwood but I think it might be more difficult matching the color with my limited supply of acrylics. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Maury
-
NMBROOK reacted to Maury S in Mast from Admiralty Models Workshop
Bib and cheek mated. I'm building up the head of the mast, then they will be tapered to the plan dimensions.
Maury
-
NMBROOK reacted to Maury S in Mast from Admiralty Models Workshop
The cheeks are tapered in both dimensions. Chiseled close to the line then finished on a sanding board. The notches for the bibs are cut carefully with a #11 blade (pic. out of order). I cut these before installing the cheeks as I had more control for the detailed cut on a flat surface. They got cleaned up with a swiss file (not shown).
Maury
-
NMBROOK reacted to Maury S in Mast from Admiralty Models Workshop
Cheeks: I did this in a different order than presented. First I cut the concave underside at the bottom of the cheeks since there was more "meat" to hang onto. I do not have a good gouge of that shape, so I marked off the arc by holding the cheek up against the shoulder cut in the mast, set the length of the cut and shaved it out with a very sharp 1/4" chisel, working from the outer edge in to the center. Once close, I sanded to clean it up.
Next is tapering, both the length and width.
Maury
-
NMBROOK reacted to Maury S in Mast from Admiralty Models Workshop
I started this at the workshop back in 2011. While waiting to get more updates on the Echo Section I pulled this out to finish it. The shaping from square to eight sided to round and tapering was done at the workshop. First three pics show status from then. You can see the top tapered and the shoulders for the cheeks. Next step is the Cheeks.
Maury
-
NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
That high level of quality is impressive!
/Matti
-
NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
Only a small update,but otherwise I may end up missing a step or two.I have had a slight change of plan in that I am going to curve the gratings rather than sand the shape on the top face.This came about after I thinned the grating down and realised it should be a reasonably easy task to shape in a jig with the application of water.
I plan to get the full thickness down to a little over 1mm.This should give a 'finer' scale appearance.I have begun work on the forward combing.This is sawn from an ebony billet and the rebate added on the tablesaw before cutting into sections.The mitres were sized using the bench disc sander rather than attempting to cut these with the saw.
One of the athwartship sections has had the rebate extended to match the curve of the grating underside.This was done with scalpel and a jewellers file.All external faces at present are oversize,these will be cut after assembly.
The reason I chose to mitre instead of replicate the original joints it purely for cosmetic reasons.The joints will be invisible in the finished ebony,but I can achieve a better finish with no exposed endgrain on the corners.
Kind Regards
Nigel
Our Emblem ®
