NMBROOK
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi Michael,
I salute your progress, your determination... Your carriages look very nice. Very fine details...
(The pins of the guns on my Berlin were just like yours. Me, I have cut the pins, drilled a hole there, inserted a belaying pin inside and painted them black.)
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NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Lawrence,
Thanks for your kind words. I'm in the process of disassembling all the carriage axles and following Nigel's brilliant solution to the errors that I noticed after installing all of the wheels.
I have an incorrect space between the wheel washer and the axle pins. Nigel suggested that I remove the axles, cut them in two, remove the spacing gap and re-attach each axle in two parts.
Looking much better. Note the main pic from left to right before and after.
Nigel if you happen to read this A BIG THANKS my friend, as usual very sage advice.
Regards,
Michael
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
Moving along. The cap rails on the quarterdeck bulwarks and transom have been made from boxwood and installed. They are painted black. After doing the cap rails, I also made and installed the small pieces of rail that go above the hances. Since these pieces are in a precarious spot during further work, I put a pin through the rail and stanchion and into the rail below. The last item I did was to make and install the stern davits. These are boxwood and have the same simulated sheaves that I have used previously on this build.
The next work will be the guns and other deck fittings and furniture on the quarterdeck.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
Thanks Scott.
Rainy weather has cut down golf time and increased modeling time. As a result, I have made and installed the quarterdeck pin rails and also have done the quarterdeck hances and related moldings.
The pin rails are boxwood and were pinned and glued to the bulwarks. For the hances, I used the laser cut kit parts for the sculpted curved portion, but cut off the additional laser cut "molding" portion and replaced it with half round molding. The kit parts were nicely done, but very fragile, and it just seemed easier to use a less fragile alternative.
Now, I will do the cap rails for the bulwarks and transom.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
I added the simulated bulwark sheaves for the main braces.
I then made up the quarterdeck bulwark ringbolts and blackened them and a bunch of eyebolts. I also made up two sizes of cleats from boxwood. I then drilled the bulwarks and transom for all of them and installed them (with the exception of the ringbolts for the four guns that I will mount).
I then made two transom knees from boxwood and installed them. Lastly, I made a traveler for the boom sheet from wire and installed it in the transom with drilled holes.
The pin rails remain to be made and installed to complete the quarterdeck bulwark work.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
Deck planking on the quarterdeck is now complete. I began by doing the center section of planking. This provided coverage around the hatches and masts and a base for the capstan and wheel. I left the aft section open to give a view of the cabin. After completing this , I tried out a variety of options for additional planking to mount guns. To my eye, the best was to do enough planking to mount the forward two guns on each side. I'm sure that others would probably come to different conclusions, but that is the choice I made. I did also add two small planking strips at the stern to support the transom knees.
I also made up the hatches and the ladderway coaming from boxwood with the kit gratings. As before, the deck planking is holly with pencil "caulking" and golden oak filler "treenails", finished with Wipe-on Poly.
I'm in the process of making up cleats, ringbolts and eyebolts for the quarterdeck bulwarks. Drilling for them and mounting will be next.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to derebek in Peleng-i Bahri 1777 by derebek - 1/48 - POF - Ottoman Galleon
more photos
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NMBROOK reacted to derebek in Peleng-i Bahri 1777 by derebek - 1/48 - POF - Ottoman Galleon
leveling rough start to the bow figure
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NMBROOK reacted to derebek in Peleng-i Bahri 1777 by derebek - 1/48 - POF - Ottoman Galleon
continue from where I left after a long hiatus
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NMBROOK reacted to David Nuttall in Vintage Billings Norske Love
I have been given one to finish off as well!! The instructions are not good, check out other sites for rigging
pics.The original kit was dark mahogany and deck was not planked.Looks a good rugged kit when finished.
I´ve had to make up a lot of missing bits, including all the cannons.
regards and good luck David
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NMBROOK got a reaction from PeteB in Vintage Billings Norske Love
Just some pics of the plans and instructions included with the model.Note date on drawing,not quite as old as me,but older than my wife .The instructions actually include more information than some of the current ones from Billings!I will take pics of the model at the weekend as I have several bags of loose items to wade through.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Martin W in Vintage Billings Norske Love
Just some pics of the plans and instructions included with the model.Note date on drawing,not quite as old as me,but older than my wife .The instructions actually include more information than some of the current ones from Billings!I will take pics of the model at the weekend as I have several bags of loose items to wade through.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from cog in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed
After a little absence,I have something of an update.Aside from very little time,my broadband connection is giving me grief Either lightning fast or more commonly working at a snails past.I shall contact my provider and give them what for when in the right frame of mind.
Anyway,half the deck planked,given a scrape and light sand and then a couple of coats of poly to prevent glue marks whilst working on the other side.I have moved away from shellac as firstly,I like the variation of tones and secondly it means I can use my acrylic ageing techniques should I choose.I am ,due to the pleasing appearance,considering NOT treenailing and risk spoiling the effect.
The other side of the hull is now built and shaped so my next job is to sort the upper gunport frames on this side.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Blue Ensign in Vintage Billings Norske Love
Hi Nigel, here's a few pics of my old Norske Love, she's been uncased for many years, and has to have a periodic dusting, but I'm still very fond of the old girl as she marks my first foray into wooden kit building
Hope you find them of use
B.E.
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NMBROOK reacted to Blue Ensign in Vintage Billings Norske Love
I will be interested to see what you make of Norske Love Nigel. I built this model back in the early 1980's and it still resides in my office.
It needs some serious modification to the head works, and replacement of many of the fittings, something I have no doubt you are well up to.
One thing that really puzzled me about the kit was that for a ship of around 1760 it was supplied with round tops more appropriate to a vessel of the 17th century.
I made many mods to my version although I would hope today that I could improve on my 1980's effort.
I have some pics of the model including details, I'll post them up later.
Cheers,
B.E.
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NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Fabulous work mate,the kevels(cleats) look great .
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Hey everyone!
I have done some work on the cleats and rigging details to start the actual rigging. It was harder than expected to get them thinned down, and not breaking them. Having this done means I can now start with the rigging.
/Matti
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NMBROOK reacted to NenadM in Muntz metal colour - any idea ?
My two cents about glass sea: Now you can not see wonderfull hull lines ,elegancy and strenght of Her bow and stern
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Stockholm tar in Muntz metal colour - any idea ?
Hi Kester
An interesting point.We were responsible for reinforcing the hull and jacking the ship up,another contractor did the glazed 'roof'.The glazed roof met with mixed opinions in our workshop.The ship resto was covered in a UK documentary and the architect did clarify his 'vision' that the glazing represented the sea.Personally I am not too keen,it is all a bit too 'Disney' for my liking and detracts from the vessel.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to maggsl_01 in HMY Royal Caroline by maggsl_01 - FINISHED - Panart - 1:47
Hello all...
here is a little update. I have planked the bulkhead of the cabin and I made the doors and windows. This was the first time for me to work with wood on such difficult and small parts. I have now much more respect of all of you who do such work with extreme accuracy.
It was right to move the planking of the cabin and the work on the doors to this point. I am sure when you go along with the plan you will drive crazy with this work. After the Planks are in place and much more stuff is already fixed on the deck there is so less space to work proper. So I only can recommend - to such of you who are not experts - to read the plans exactly before starting to build. You will find ways to get along with the model in much more calm and satisfying ways. I stained the Planks of the cabin with oak and think it has a nice Color now. Now I can continue with the first planking.
Cheerio
Max
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Vasa by marktiedens - FINISHED - Sergal - scale 1:60
Another update - standing rigging done(I think).Now to the really fun part - running rigging.
/Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
Thanks so much Remco, Joe and Thomas for the kind words and also to all the "likes".
Remco, I try to avoid the need for trimming or sanding by the painted areas. I make up multi plank units to fit the space between the ports and do all of the trimming and sanding off the ship. It takes a little longer to fit the pieces, but in the end I think it saves time and it definitely saves aggravation.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed
I got into a couple of those days when I just couldn't stop and completed all of the internal bulwark planking for the quarterdeck, including the transom. I also did the deck margin planks and waterways. The bulwark planking and waterways are boxwood and the deck planking is holly. I followed my usual procedure on this build with pencil "caulking" and golden oak filler "treenails".
I'm going to do the center strip of deck planking before making a decision on how much more planking to do for gun mounting. I've narrowed it down to three choices: all of the guns on one side and none on the other; all of the guns on one side and a couple on the other side; a couple of guns on each side.
Bob
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NMBROOK reacted to Stockholm tar in Muntz metal colour - any idea ?
Nigel,
Interesting you worked on CS during the restoration.
I was in Greenwich last year and visited her. They've done a good job, but I'm still in two minds about the glass 'sea', although it does make for a usable space in the bottom of the dock. I loved the clustering of the old figureheads at the bow end, very spectacular.
Having tea in the cafeteria under the hull, I was examining the plates. Even though muntz metal, I think they are too bright and could have been dulled down a bit, as I can't believe they were as bright after a few years service.
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NMBROOK got a reaction from MartyB in Deck planking - simulation of caulking
I thought I would post a couple of pics as this thread has popped up again.Having taken on board all the different methods employed by everyone,I feel I have come up with a new alternative .I developed this for my Mordaunt build to be used on both deck hull and keel.The fact the model will be finished in Shelac immediately precludes the use of any type of marker as the alcohol or meths base will dissolve this and cause it to smear.It is time consuming,but I feel gives a thinner sharper line than using black paper.I opted to use black tissue paper as not only is this much thinner,it allows doesn't run the risk of weakening the joint like paper.I do propose to post a tutorial on it as there are some differences to the paper method.The part laid deck in the picture still needs more scraping to the finished level,but gives an impression.The deck is pear with a max plank width of 5.7mm(the planks are tapered)
Kind Regards
Nigel
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