NMBROOK

Thank you very much indeed Mark and Matti  
I know some very notable modelers Dr Mike included advocate colouring the glue Mark.To be honest the idea fills me with some trepidation.First off is the glue will conform to any irregularity in the plank edges,but more so is Pear is like a giant sponge and can't help but think bleeding issues may occur.I can understand it working with Boxwood as this has minimal absorbency and is a very different animal all together.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Alistair   I am glad that I have moved away from my preferred boxwood for the deck.It was upon seeing a fine model of la Salamandre on other site by a professional French builder that made the decision.The warm glow of the finished pear against the ebony swung it for me   The only boxwood used was for the carvings.I am hoping that any dramatic colour variation will be toned down with the shellac(another first and learning curve for me   ).
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a couple more pics to illustrate the 'tissue technique'.There is still a fair amount of scraping to be done,the dark spots are low spots.Just gave what I had done a light scrape to tidy things up as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a couple more pics to illustrate the 'tissue technique'.There is still a fair amount of scraping to be done,the dark spots are low spots.Just gave what I had done a light scrape to tidy things up as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

Stunning work on the deck Nigel. Robert (j21896) used Swiss pear for his superb deck on HMS Mars. I sure do like the look and colour of this wood and the black tissue for caulking is a very clever touch.

Sweet work on the planking, Nigel.  I'm considering your method as an alternative to the darkened glue. 

Gorgeous work! Good to hear you found a nice job.
 
/Matti

Just a couple more pics to illustrate the 'tissue technique'.There is still a fair amount of scraping to be done,the dark spots are low spots.Just gave what I had done a light scrape to tidy things up as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks mate Yes it has a nice warm hue to it when finish is applied.It can be a pain to work with as the add piece has some wacky grain pattern to it and has resulted in a couple of planks hitting the recycling The tissue I am more than pleased with,it gives the sharp line but not quite as wide as paper.the strength issue is also sorted as I glued the waterway sections together into one length and fitted and bent it as one piece!The deck laying process due to the tissue and tapering is ridiculously slow,but I am confident worth it in the long run.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Evening all
 
Thanks to WackoWolf, maggsl_01 and Aussie048 for the likes.
 
Thanks Nigel and Sjors for the comments.
 
Nigel I am cutting the planks from sheet with a X-acto knife (haven't got space or money for power tools...yet...hopefully ) It's not too bad but I think I could benefit from getting a ship's curve for the curved sections. I'm finding it quite difficult to get nice smooth curves.
 
 

You mean to tell me this is the easy bit??!?!
 
Nick
 

Just a couple more pics to illustrate the 'tissue technique'.There is still a fair amount of scraping to be done,the dark spots are low spots.Just gave what I had done a light scrape to tidy things up as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

Thanks for the comments and the "likes".   I find having you guys (and lady  ) looking over my shoulder helps on keeping things focused.
 
 
NIgel,
This issue isn't as severe as some other ones I've stumbled across .  But since these plans were all done by hand, I expect some issues.  Version 1.0, I used whatever sheet was handy for the ports and other measurements.  I'm sticking to the framing drawing until this thing is planked, at least until it's totally framed out.  I'll also use it for the deck beam placement as I've caught some mis-matches (or maybe they just seem to be mismatches?). 

Excellent planking work Nick   It is no mean feat getting the planking to conform to contemporary style.Are you cutting the planks from sheet or edge bending normal strip?
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Pete I am feeling chuffed to actually put an idea into practice that nobody else to my knowledge has done before     As I said to Eamonn it is a slow process and much care is needed,but the results seem superior to other methods.When I have a little time,I will post a little tutorial on using it as the techniques differ a little to using paper due to the very delicate nature of the tissue.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks mate Yes it has a nice warm hue to it when finish is applied.It can be a pain to work with as the add piece has some wacky grain pattern to it and has resulted in a couple of planks hitting the recycling The tissue I am more than pleased with,it gives the sharp line but not quite as wide as paper.the strength issue is also sorted as I glued the waterway sections together into one length and fitted and bent it as one piece!The deck laying process due to the tissue and tapering is ridiculously slow,but I am confident worth it in the long run.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

I had exactly the same issue with Mordaunt Euromodel plans show a 'parallelogram' port following the shear right at the front whilst all the others are square.Builder's model shows all square.I went with the builder's model,but the port actually works out slightly higher than the rest in relation to deck level.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Who knows ?
 
here rises the question...
the downleading stairway (not shown here yet) from the Quarterdeck will be landing between capstan and the next downward starcase, interferes full with the gundeck capstan, if it should be operated with 360 ° turn.
does the Quarterdeck stair have to be fitted moveable with hinges, for instance to be hauled up against the Quarterdeck from beneath, to allow full capstan operation ?
 
Nils
 
 

 

The downward stairs from the Quarterdeck interferes full with the capstan Operation....

Have to do the first two and the last two gunport doors, will try to get the hinges functional working...., here first try (the 1 mm round bar shall be cut to fit later on)
 
 
 

the small parts from the etched sheet are soldered to the 1 x 2 mm Tube, then cut off...
 

here also the Counter hinge part that goes to the hull above the gunport, the small Pivot rod is 1 mm
 

will AC glue the Long hinge parts to the gunport door (have to do the doors first and fit them in...)
 
 
 
Nils

the swivel gunposts are shaped octogonal in the upper post-portions and the Ends secured with a metal ring.
The guns still Need to get handles to operate...
 

the metal gunpost rings shall sit slightly above the roughtree rail when it is mounted
 
 
Nils

thank you Popeye.
 
Bob, thanks for your words,
i can only give back the compliments for your beautiful Essex build
 
Thanks Crackers,
we can be thankful that today we can get all sorts of chilled Drinks on board a ship...
 
 
Nils
 
Here a short update on the assembly Arrangement..
 

I am thinking of doing some structuring to the raw swivel gunposts
 

would have to tacle guns and anchor cables, all that goes underneath the Quarterdeck before putting it on permanently, am always a bit anxious that something could be forgotten to Mount as Long as there is Access there
 

would now Need to get the forecastle assembly Status to the same Level..
 
 
Nils

a Little update for the Quarterdeck..
 
 
 
 

Little binnacle cabinet
 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 
 
 
Nils

some more pics for the steering....
 
 
 

acc. to plan and etch parts the wheel is soldered together from 5 individual parts plus drum and shim disc at the aft side
 

tiller shortend a bit and eyelets for the Tackling set
 

 
 
 
 
Nils