NMBROOK

That's positively beautiful Bud, so solid looking, I like your reasoning on the 5 beams too, reminds me of  Ship Construction lectures.. way back when..!
 
Cheers, and enjoy the rest of the weekend.
 
Eamonn
 
btw that Tamiya Tape is the absolute business!

Ok update time After sorting the remaining deck supports I preceeded to mark the subdeck out on a piece of 1/16th ply.After cutting out,I began to establish the deck beam positions in order to mark where plank butts treenails etc would be.Refering to 'Restoration Warship',Richard Ensor states that common practice was to have one deck beam central to each gunport and one inbetween.I drew out the gunport positions of the gundeck and marked the beams then marked the other beams halfway inbetween.This design is completely different to that portrayed on the plans,sorry Euromodels but the internal structure just doesn't ring true.Yes I am still working to the plans for the internal layout,just not the beam placement.Another issue came to light in the fact that the long grating and main mast resulted in 5 consecutive beams being split.There is no way this would happen,so I have shortened the gratings to allow two beams to run right through,hence the deck infill at each end.After one or two trial runs and a little trimming,making sure nothing was tight on the pear frames,the deck was glued in place.I did remove the temporary ties across the frame tops to allow this and the deck had to be bent ALOT to get it to 'spring' in.There is still lots of shaping to do to the lower hull especially the stern which is simply a block at the moment.Thorough checks on symmetry will be carried out as the work progresses. 
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Eamonn,
 
Steady - I'm blushing already!

Ok update time After sorting the remaining deck supports I preceeded to mark the subdeck out on a piece of 1/16th ply.After cutting out,I began to establish the deck beam positions in order to mark where plank butts treenails etc would be.Refering to 'Restoration Warship',Richard Ensor states that common practice was to have one deck beam central to each gunport and one inbetween.I drew out the gunport positions of the gundeck and marked the beams then marked the other beams halfway inbetween.This design is completely different to that portrayed on the plans,sorry Euromodels but the internal structure just doesn't ring true.Yes I am still working to the plans for the internal layout,just not the beam placement.Another issue came to light in the fact that the long grating and main mast resulted in 5 consecutive beams being split.There is no way this would happen,so I have shortened the gratings to allow two beams to run right through,hence the deck infill at each end.After one or two trial runs and a little trimming,making sure nothing was tight on the pear frames,the deck was glued in place.I did remove the temporary ties across the frame tops to allow this and the deck had to be bent ALOT to get it to 'spring' in.There is still lots of shaping to do to the lower hull especially the stern which is simply a block at the moment.Thorough checks on symmetry will be carried out as the work progresses. 
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Time for some work on the exterior hull. The first items that I made and installed were the fenders and chesstrees. These were made from boxwood strip and sanded to shape and to fit the hull contour. Next, I added some black painted molding on a line above the gunports. I prefer to install the molding in pieces between the fenders and chesstrees, rather than notching those pieces to fit over the molding. Then, I made and installed the entry steps. These were done with pear strip cut to size and filed to shape. All of this work was done on both sides of the hull.
 
I was enjoying this, so I decided to do some gunport lids as well. I made up and installed five lids on the starboard side. The exterior of the lids was made up of pieces of boxwood to match the hull planking. The recessed interior was done with thinner wood and painted red to match the gunport linings. The hinges are from the kit photoetch sheet. Lastly, I added eyebolts. The lids were pinned and glued to the hull for strength.
 
I'm tempted to continue on with the channels and more lids, but may also return to more guns and quarter deck framing. I'll decide today.
 
Bob
 
 

To be honest Nils,after reading your post four times,I cannot work out whether you are having a go at me personally for posting my find of this DVD.After all in your eyes I could be seen as promoting it.My only question is,surely your argument would then apply to any modeler who chooses to write a book.After all,are they not 'cashing in' on the hobby?In my opinion a DVD is no different to a book,other than it probably does demonstrate things a little.better.
I would mention again that I have no connection with this DVD's producers.
 
Nigel

I received my copy of the DVD today after a short wait for it to come from the USA.In a nutshell and Australian film crew spent 8 weeks filming with Dr Mike in his workshop.Michael Bezverhny is a Russian master modelmaker who at the time this DVD was produced,was the only modeler to ever score a perfect 500/500  in the world shipmodeling championships.He is actually a fully qualified heart surgeon who earns more money building ships to commission.I only actually stumbled on this DVD by per chance when looking at Dr Mike's work on the internet.I do thank Brian C for confirming it was well worth the purchase as he already had a copy.This DVD is by no means a new release,but doesn't appear to have been mentioned here before.
The DVD is just over three hours long and rather than actually following the build of a specific model,Dr Mike demonstrates various techniques used throughout the build process,however is work in progress build 'Rivoli' is used many times to illustrate where the various techniques apply.
Don't expect a Steven Spielberg production as the editing is amateurish and a little disjointed in places,however the is nothing amateurish about the work being demonstrated.On the whole,any builder whatever there level of experience will learn something from this DVD.My only disappointment was that Dr Mike's hot melt adhesive technique for hull plating wasn't shown.
So if you fancy an insight into how IMHO one of the finest,if not the finest model shipbuilders in the world does it,this is well worth a look.
Details can be found at  www.modelshipbuildingsecrets.com
I am in no way affiliated with the production company involved,just a happy customer.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Richard, both kits extend your skills and both are begging for your own variations.  Personally, out of the two, if I had to choose, then I would go for the Falmouth due to a number of factors. For example, the stern construction requires some interesting thinking (which I have written about) and the fact that it has a 'Sun Deck' for overhead protection whilst working in the tropics. Those two points make it a great project. It is distinctly different. But there again, that applies to all the Euromodel ships .....
Pete

Thanks Nigel and welcome along Alistair, as you can gather suggestions & tips are very welcome, so please suggest away if you see something that needs doing.
 
So I think that's unanimous voting for Kesters Idea !! Thanks folks for the input.. I'll knock up a piece in the next few days, am off now for some serious margin plank procrastinating, my Tamiya Tape arrived so I might just get on with finishing the first coats on the hull.
 
See Ye All Later and Have a Brilliant Weekend.
 
Eamonn

Just caught up with your log Eamonn. Links are a wonderful thing. Great work on your build  and Nigel is steering you very well. I will be a watcher from now on and if I can advise I will. A fine ship it is that you are making.

I was wondering about the stern area Kester between those upright frames ! in fact I was trawling through build logs to see what people did for that area..
Worry ye not re the margarine plank width, they are just that wide to give me plenty of overlap to draw the 6mm margin proper which is spot on to your suggestion of being 1.5 times the deck plank thickness (which is 4mm)  and some of this width will be absorbed by the Spirketting (1mm thick) too , so it should be grand.
 
What does everyone else think re Margin Planking up against the stern/transom area?
 
Thanks For Stopping By Kester and to all the Likes.
 
Eamonn
 
BTW Thanks for the link.. nice to know it isn't just me..

For me personally,I would be tempted to fit one mate,if only for aesthetic reasons.Whether or not it had one historically,I don't know,but it would not only make the job easier and neater,as you may encounter planks that need notching beyond what was normal practice to fit around the uprights.With the margin plank you are guaranteed not to have any 'dodgy' narrow pieces next to the uprights

I received my dvd yesterday, i've watched the first chapters and already can't wait to try that technique.
 
I'm really glad i ordered it, money well spend.
 
Now only to find the time to continue watching it.

Looking at the museum model,the first three deadeyes should be further forward as the most forward chainplate lands above the next gunport,whether this means a longer channel,it is hard to tell from just the one view of Billing's drawings.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

You will never ever see my workspace this neat and clean again. (I must confess it wasn't me, but my cleaning lady.) 
Now I feel more motivated to start building.
And yes, this is all the room I have to build my ships. 

Hello all.
Couldn't wait and I'm posting these photos with the sole purpose of starting my Royal Louis build log.

 
I'm under the impression this will be a real challenge.
 
Box and contents shown. I know before hand I won't be using some of the stuff in this kit. Like those metal boats: Plan to purchase wooden kits for those parts. Blocks: I'm planning to purchase blocks from an external source. Rigging thread: I will make my own. Too many metal parts. Still don't know which I will use or won't. Will decide in due time.
 
Actual build photos will come later.
 
All you see in the photos is all the room I have to build. That is a blanket closet. 
I dream of a really big and spacious shop. 

Some more dry fitting made today, and some beveling of the bulkheads started
 
 
Everything seams to be ok, no warped bulkhead or badly cut decks

 
One problem has arisen though...

 
The kit is missing the stringers

 
They are listed in the italian components list but not in the english. And they are not among the included materials
 
 

This will be my log for the Falmouth.
First some history.
  1750  " Falmouth," East Indiaman, was commenced by Mr. Perry on 1752  the 22nd of August, 1750, and launched on the 14th of August, 1752,           a copy of one of the elaborate plans of this vessel now           hanging in the office at Blackwall is here given. In this year Mr. Perry's wife, Ann Perry,           died at the age of thirty-six.   Taken from "Chronicles of Blackwall Yard" by Henry Green and Robert Wigram 1881   It was the first trading vessel of the English Indiaman Companies and showed a close resemblance to a warship in sail plan and rigging, with the most up-to-date reef-points to her topsails The ship was equipped with a large amount of artillery, unusual for the trading vessels of that period. In that she was run along the lines of naval discipline was due to the fact that the vessel could sail alone without any convoy ship, since its rich load was a good bounty for all the enemy vessels and pirate ships. The Falmouth could easily combat a war-ship of the same tonnage, thanks to its crew of 180 experienced men including the best trained gunners. The superiority of the crew was partly due to the incentive granted to each gunman allowing each individual to transport his own 5 tonnage of goods there and 2 tonnage back. These goods were usually sold as smuggled goods to the black market. The Falmouth was of 499 tons and was in service until 1764 completing five voyages for the East India Company under the Captain George Hepburn. She was lost on her sixth voyage, wrecked at Sogar Bank in 1766. (From the Euromodel site)     Just some first pictures
 
It only took ten days from the US to Norway by regular post, I was impressed.

 

No wonder the box was so heavy...

Having the inlaws visit for two weeks put the start off a little,
but tonight I got to dry fit the frames 

Will fix that one bulkhead..

Bowsprit finished & pre-rigged.Still working on the masts.
 

 
/Mark

Yea, that would indeed have been a tough piece to fashion for them, I think I'll follow your advice and 'fill' them in.. the beefed up appearance may well look better too.. more substantial ! save me mucking about with Margin & Spirketting there too, and anything to procrastinate more Margin work ,,   though remarkably I'm looking forward to getting stuck into it properly.. weird eh?
 
Thanks for the advice Bud
 
Eamonn

Hi mate
Yes I realise it is Caldercraft's design of the skeleton that causes the voids.In reality they would have been the 'ears' of the stern upright(Even I don't know what this pieces proper name is without looking it up     ) and tight in the corner,but as this is a POB kit,they have chosen really the only route possible.without making the kit too complex as this piece would be shaped in two planes.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hey There Nigel, I might just address those little wee Transom corners spaces with wood now that you mention them, particularly as I'm doing 'Spirketting' (right word then..  ) though it should fit in there comfortably, they are odd fiddly looking spaces all the same, they seem to be part of the transom design mind you, but that design isn't allowing for my inspired adaptions..   :huh:    
 
The Margin Planking is only laid down on top of each other, they aren't cut to correct length yet as I do indeed want to scarf joint them! there is plenty of overlap there at the mo.
Oh Yea.. Margin Planking is a delight.. am just amazed everyone isn't doing it !!!!! am going to recommend it to all my friends on MSW here (am a big fan of spreading the misery you see..  )
BTW I never take your Suggestions as Criticism.. you are safe enough to suggest away !
 
All The Best Nigel
 
Eamonn

Thanks mate,I do find it beneficial in that it keeps the energy going.Like I have said I needed a short break from Caroline,not just from the fiddly bits but to give myself a little thinking time.Still haven't decided exactly how I am going to do the gun carriages and a couple of other areas,so this pause gives me the opportunity.
 
Kind Regards 
 
Nigel

That wasn't so bad after all mate   :rolleyes:Please don't take this as criticism,more a suggestion.The two triangular voids at either side of the transom,inbetween the uprights and the bulwarks,to me,look a little strange.Personally I would be tempted to fill these with timber triangles.I know you have painted the insides,but doing this will make life an awful lot easier in the long run as the waterway/spirketing will be a nightmare in that little corner..Incidentally,waterway sits in the corner,spirketing is thicker inner hull/bulwark planking running from said waterway up to the lower cill of the gunports
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Margin Plank Photos
 
Only the edge abutting the Bulwarks has been shaped, and even that is somewhat roughly done.. will proper fit all at later stage, there will be a Spirketting or whatever that Skirting Board looking Plank thing is called, so to have an absolutely perfect bulwark fit won't be a high priority though I do want it neat as my 'deck planking' side measurement (in my case 6 mm width)  will be taken off it as per Nigel's tip above.
 
The Plan photo shows my calculations for creating the Water Line, with the final line drawn on the hull in such a way that Heath Robinson would have been proud !  btw Tamiya tape arrived on scene today !
 
Thanks for Looking in Folks.
 
Slán,
 
Eamonn