NMBROOK

Thank you very much indeed Nigel
 
The upper character is now complete(well apart from the great lump of boxwood to be cut off later )
 
I have now started on roughing out the lower one.This one is crouched down with hands together
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
Slowly moving forward actually, surprising indeed. At this stage I am discovering, as all other Vasa builders at MSW have noted, are the rigging issues with this ship.
 
It appears as if the three main kits all have variations for positioning lines, and also where they should attach.
 
So even adding a few eyelets to the lower bowsprit mast has its issues. Karl (karlop) was kind in sending me photos of his Billings rigging plans. I am also following Frank’s rigging ideas [fmodajar] (I plan to add sails so need to add blocks, not shown on the Corel rigging sheets), lastly I do have the Museum plan sheets. What’s still MIA is the Vasa II book, which was due late last year.
 
Regarding the photos;
 
Decided to use the Corel included triple blocks. They needed a full facelift, but I’m happy with how they came out.
 
Using Chuck’s ropes, and blocks (Syren) and I am very happy sourcing from his company.
 
Decided to “shrink” the eyelets, I found them to be out of the box, a bit too out of scale based on photos I have seen of the 1/10th and Clayton’s as well. I initially had used the Brass Black to darken the pieces, but too messy. So will just paint them as I go along.
 
The flat black paint is also great as it removes any shine from the rope’s glue dabs.
 
Platform in place but not attached, need to add lower platform braces and, of course the chainplate bits.
 
As always thanks for dropping by.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael

Hi Michael
Looking at the photos I would add lime strip bent around the edges of the low bulkheads to bring them to roughly the same level as the others before you do any fairing.When fairing and checking the run of the edges,I would use a strip thicker than the planking material.This bends in more of an arc and will not follow the irregularities.It will be much easier to get a fair run building up these low bulkheads as otherwise you will end up removing far too much material and risk loosing the hull shape.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Michael,I would start above the waterline,with a thicker strip you should be able to assess the shape over  the full length bar the first four bulkheads.Using an elastic band or tape,you should be able to hold the strip i position to judge how much packing and where.I would also temporarily fix a piece of card across the sides of the rearmost bulkhead with some graph paper glued to it.Lining the squares up with the true vertical of the false keel will allow you to check the symmetry at this position.Like you say a lack of symmetry amidships isn't overly noticeable,however the stern needs to be correct or you will have issues when building the stern galleries.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Michael
Looking at the photos I would add lime strip bent around the edges of the low bulkheads to bring them to roughly the same level as the others before you do any fairing.When fairing and checking the run of the edges,I would use a strip thicker than the planking material.This bends in more of an arc and will not follow the irregularities.It will be much easier to get a fair run building up these low bulkheads as otherwise you will end up removing far too much material and risk loosing the hull shape.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Finger still hurts a bit a week later but my model related injury hasn't stopped me !  Finishing Confederacy by year end or bust.....
 
Update - the foremast channels are installed.  I chose to paint Chucks nice boxwood deadeyes with Tamiya Flat Black paint.  If I use paint/dye again on my next model (which Im leaning more to a "Belgian school" approach of all Pear) I will not bother with Fiebings dye - Tamiya flat black with an overcoat of Watcos Danish Oil looks as good as Fiebings with far less trouble in application.  
 
This is may be my last build at this scale - thanks to a photo etch set from Model Expo Ive been able to realize the chainplate assemblies - soldering them this small would be a serious pain - kudos to you Rusty ! 

Been making rope coils - thought I would take a break from that & work on the anchors. First I filed a groove around the stock so it would look like 2 pieces. Then I drilled some small holes & glued in some toothpicks,then I sanded them off smooth to simulate treenails. Then I added some small black nails to simulate bolts & finished with some satin poly. The treenails can barely be seen but that is the effect I wanted.
 

 

 
/Mark
 
 

Hi all - a bit of progress. First I pre-rigged the yards as much as possible.
 

 
Then I attached the yards to the masts & got all the lifts & halyards rigged. May not be 100% correct but it should be close. Still a bit more to do such as braces,rope coils,anchors,& a few other misc.items. I went by Corel`s measurements for the masts & yards but the yards seem a little on the short side .Oh well - I`m not going to re-do them at this point.
 

 
/Mark
 
 

Michael,I would start above the waterline,with a thicker strip you should be able to assess the shape over  the full length bar the first four bulkheads.Using an elastic band or tape,you should be able to hold the strip i position to judge how much packing and where.I would also temporarily fix a piece of card across the sides of the rearmost bulkhead with some graph paper glued to it.Lining the squares up with the true vertical of the false keel will allow you to check the symmetry at this position.Like you say a lack of symmetry amidships isn't overly noticeable,however the stern needs to be correct or you will have issues when building the stern galleries.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Michael
Looking at the photos I would add lime strip bent around the edges of the low bulkheads to bring them to roughly the same level as the others before you do any fairing.When fairing and checking the run of the edges,I would use a strip thicker than the planking material.This bends in more of an arc and will not follow the irregularities.It will be much easier to get a fair run building up these low bulkheads as otherwise you will end up removing far too much material and risk loosing the hull shape.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Jp,no plans to start in the immediate future but I may do a review/appraisal of what you get although Daniel's video does give a good illustration.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Jp,no plans to start in the immediate future but I may do a review/appraisal of what you get although Daniel's video does give a good illustration.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Nigel ...I'm very much looking forward to your assessment of the kit and a pending build log .... any timeframe in mind?
Daniel... can you hold steadfast on current pricing ...(pretty) please... our nation is in the midst of a recession...LOL...
 
JP

Thank you all guys
Daniel

Thank you Mr Pett The break is only a temporary one.Far too much going on in my personal life at the minute to devote the time to get back into the build.
When things settle down,I have every intention of putting all my other projects on hold to move this one forward.
I wish you well with your build,it certainly looks like you have done some great work so far.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

That looks an excellent product Daniel,I look forward to seeing mine when it lands
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Nigel .
Preparation before planking of the main deck.

Superb work Marsalv
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Michael
I have Mamoli's drawings and these have been enlarged to produce a model of 1/60.I can confirm that even the drawings are not symmetrical for the bulkhead profiles.Many of the slots for the false keel do not run vertically true.Even when this is corrected there are still inconsistencies at various positions around the profiles.If you have assembled the bulkheads to the keel,all I can suggest is to make templates for half of each bulkhead either side of the false keel and check these against the plan,yes there will still be discrepancies,but the idea being is that you ensure some symmetry to each side.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

That looks an excellent product Daniel,I look forward to seeing mine when it lands
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Superb work Marsalv
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Mr Pett The break is only a temporary one.Far too much going on in my personal life at the minute to devote the time to get back into the build.
When things settle down,I have every intention of putting all my other projects on hold to move this one forward.
I wish you well with your build,it certainly looks like you have done some great work so far.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

That looks an excellent product Daniel,I look forward to seeing mine when it lands
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Michael
I have Mamoli's drawings and these have been enlarged to produce a model of 1/60.I can confirm that even the drawings are not symmetrical for the bulkhead profiles.Many of the slots for the false keel do not run vertically true.Even when this is corrected there are still inconsistencies at various positions around the profiles.If you have assembled the bulkheads to the keel,all I can suggest is to make templates for half of each bulkhead either side of the false keel and check these against the plan,yes there will still be discrepancies,but the idea being is that you ensure some symmetry to each side.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Mr Pett The break is only a temporary one.Far too much going on in my personal life at the minute to devote the time to get back into the build.
When things settle down,I have every intention of putting all my other projects on hold to move this one forward.
I wish you well with your build,it certainly looks like you have done some great work so far.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel