bdgiantman2

Good morning ☺️
 
 

Thanks Marc!  Good to hear from you.
 
I've never made pintles before so I did a little research to see how others had made them.  I saw examples where the strap was soldered around the front of the pin which was then filed away to move the rudder closer to the stern post.  I didn't think this method would work for me as getting the 1mm thick strap to sit exactly around the pin seemed slim so I ruled that out.  Frolich in his book says to make them out of a solid piece to get a very good fit.  I thought that this was a great idea but struggled to think of a way to hold the piece whilst I was making it so I also ruled this out.  I decided to just try and make them exactly the way that Gerard has drawn them in the monograph.
 
The brass used was  1/16" (1.55mm) solid rod for the pin and 1mm x 2.3mm for the strap.  I needed to silver solder the strap directly to the side of the pin to achieve the fit that I wanted.  As silver solder has virtually no filling properties I needed to make a jig to hold each piece tightly in place whilst soldering.
 
I used a vermiculite block which I drilled a hole for the pin to sit in and then milled a couple of brass blocks to hold the straps.


It took me 3 attempts until I found the correct relationship between the pin and straps.  The first attempt set the pin slightly too high;  the second attempt set the straps a little too high but the third was just about right.



Making the other bends was simple - what I did was cut a light line using a saw through the inside of the bend to get a clean result.  I also had to make the other fitting on the rear of the rudder that the chains attach to.  Once made I cleaned them up and drilled the holes in all of the pieces and also the rudder.


Finally all of the parts were blackened and fitted using just small amounts of epoxy resin.  





So thats another challenge completed and I'm hoping to get a nice close fit to the stern post.  The pintles really are solid I just hope I've left enough space to slide them onto the gudgeons - in theory I have!
 
So the gudgeons will be my next job.
 
Thanks Mark 

Still working on the small details for the O1 deck house.
 

 
The bell bracket was made from 0.030 inch (8 mm) brass. The bell is from Bluejacket Ship Crafters (1/4 inch, part F0483). I have made bells from scratch, but it was much easier to order the bell while I was also ordering the propeller. The parts on the right are brackets to belay signal halliards.
 

 
Here are a couple of photos of the signal bridge. the flag bag (flag locker) has a "canvas" cover. It was made from some of the scrap silkspan I had left over from the topsail schooner build. It was painted off-white for the schooner sails so I brushed on some Tamiya "German Grey" (XF-63). This is what I will use for the O1 and O2 level decks.
 
A board with cleats for securing halliards is above the flag bag, with the halliard belays on either side. The thing with the red top is the shore connection box where the ship was "plugged in" to shore power while docked. There are three vent hoods from the fan room at the aft end of the O1 level house.

Installation continues thru frame 32 notice the frames reverse at frame 30. 

She is looking really nice.  I love the CNC'd figure head and stern carvings.  I think I may not have mentioned this before, but I love how you combined POB and POF model into a hybrid model!

Today I just released the stern frame jig. Now this is a little more complicated than the other parts. It required some cutting, since the main structure of the jig sits down into the bulkheads it needs to be lifted up for removal but we have stern structure that runs across horizontally into slots in the brackets, if we lifted the whole thing it would rip the stern apart. So I added some perforation on the brackets.
start by removing the upper extension wing brackets. 
I just sawed them right down the middle and removed the bracket.
From here go ahead and start cutting the perforation 

I used a micro saw blade on my xacto blade holder and cut them all on each bracket. It’s MDF so it cuts pretty easy.
once you have the main part of the Jig cut free it should just lift straight up and away.

From there the remaining jig is meant to slide out forward, note that the lower parts of the jig must pass through the slots on the bulkheads that the other part fit in.
you may need to saw off the ends of the horizontal frame brackets to help it out easier. 


If you made it through the stern assembly without gluing any parts to the jig then it should wiggle out gently and then pull right out.


now the bulkhead reinforcement hoops can be removed and we can begin fairing the inside of the hull. 

Great progress, I like the bridge details and the upper level plans shared on here. I thought Navy mugs were supposed to be without handles?? Or was that older times?

Hello everyone
A special and unique feature of the l'Anémone is the upper end strip of the transom.
 

 
To stabilize the stern structure, it had to be manufactured and installed now.
Due to its curved shape, I couldn't use a scraper. Therefore, the strip was hand-cut using a small milling tool.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
to be continued...
Herzliche Grüße
Willi
 
 

Hello everyone
Hello everyone
The rear (hopefully these are the correct terms or are translated correctly)
 

 
How I made the frames:
 
Copy the plan, cut out the paper frame.
 


Disassemble the paper frame into its individual parts.
 


Glue the segments onto a boxwood strip. Consider the grain as much as possible.
 


Cut out.
 


Clean, sand.
 


Reassemble the individual parts to form the two frame halves (almost like a puzzle).
 

 
 


Assemble the frame halves (left before, right after pre-shaping).
 

 
Installation
 

 
to be continued
 
Herzliche Grüße
Willi

Back at it today with Portland, right off the plane and into the garage! I finished the port side hull planking, got it all blocked out and coated with WOP, now I can move onto the black strake and then the wales. 


Also some goodies shows up, the remaining carvings for the model. These are the first production run in boxwood and look pretty good.



With each set of boxwood carvings you order, a set of stainless scrapers are included. These moulding profiles are taken from the drawings or Portland and the contemporary example of Bristol. The instructions will have a key that shows where each profile belongs on the model.
I couldn’t help myself and had to take a test run on a few of the rejects. These are just taped on and fitting pretty rough but you get a good idea of how it will look. There’s still a long way to go on the quarter galleys and the stern of the model. Before the rest of the carvings can be attached.

JJ

Hello again!
 
Apologies for the lengthy delay in any update on this build. I had a couple months' absence from the model when various aspects of life got in the way and my free time seemed to disappear! Hopefully, I can now return to a bit more of a regular schedule.
 
I restarted work by temporarily attaching the forward cant frame FC1 to the keel as this needs to be in place to ensure that the length of the bases of the bollard timbers and hawse pieces is correct. I then shaped the bevel on the inside face of the bollard timbers using my tilting table on the drill press sander. This worked pretty well on those areas where the bevel was consistent but I also resorted to some freehand sanding with a small drum in a dremel where there was a transition in the bevel angle. A similar procedure was also undertaken with the several hawse pieces which had also been cut from stock on the scroll saw.
 
The bollard timbers were temporarily spot glued to the stem and the hawse pieces then spot glued to the bollard timber. This is the state of progress so far with further hawse pieces still to be added.


I have left the inner and outer faces to the bollard timber and hawse pieces slightly over size at present. They will be removed from the stem in due course and sanded to a smoother curve as a single unit. You may note that the base of one of the hawse pieces doesn't quite match up to the cant frame but that shouldn't be a problem as there also needs to be a bevel faired into the foreside of the cant frame and the base of the hawse pieces in due course once the whole assembly has been completed (you can see the line marked on the can't frame to indicate this). If it does prove to be a problem then I can have another attempt at it again (as I would be surprised if things go exactly to plan first time around!).

Here is a bit more progress.
 
This is the pilot house aft bulkhead and some of the instruments that will be mounted there.
 
The large box is the Mk VII Magnetic Sweep Controller. Below it are two Navigation Light Panels. The small box is a KY-83S Keyer. Above it is a Transfer Panel for the Mk VII. At lower right are a gyro repeater and a barometer. Most of these parts mount on the gray rack to the right of the radio room door.
 
I found a photo of the Keyer and used it to create the graphic on the face of the box. The Mk VII controller graphic is fictional - I can't find a photo of it. The Transfer Panel graphic is also guesswork. The gyro repeater and barometer graphics are actual photos. The light panel layout is shown in the blueprints, but the graphic is guesswork.
 
The box that is mounted on a bracket is the ship's EDO Model 320A radar unit. It will be mounted on the pilot house forward bulkhead.
 

Here is the equipment mounted in place. The red object is the General Alarm switch, and the yellow one is the Chemical Alarm. The actual units were octagonal with a handle, but th 1:48 scale they are too small to model correctly.
 
The shelf below the Mk VII was for an electric megaphone.
 
I guess I should put some books in the bookshelf over the chart table.
 

Installation of light well and fireproof bulkhead, completion of rear deck.

I have been working on some of the fiddly bits in the pilot house.
 

 
These are the "megaphone" mouthpieces for the voice tubes. Four will be visible: one on the O2 level above the pilot house, one on the open bridge, one in the pilot house above the helm, and the fourth is on the chart desk in the pilot house. I took the dimension from the blueprint drawings, and printed the (very tiny) paper template from my CAD system. I made the pieces from 0.005 inch (0.13 mm) brass.
 

 
Here is a photo of the completed parts (left) on top of the chart desk on the aft bulkhead of the pilot house. One of these tubes came up under and stands above the chart desk surface where the navigator can talk to the bridge or O2 level station. The safe and drawers are shown in detail on one of the blueprint sheets, but I had to estimate the actual dimensions.
 
On the right is the chart desk positioned against the aft bulkhead. Just to the right of the door to the radio room is a frame for an equipment rack. Several pieces of equipment will be mounted there. All of this is like making dollhouse furniture.
 
This is the forward bulkhead for the pilot house. The shelf in front of the helm will support a magnetic compass, a gyro repeater, and propulsion control unit (throttle). There will be several instruments above the windows, and four tachometers for the engines will be mounted on the lower front on either side of the helm. The low shelf at the left will support the navigation radar control unit.
 
This helm is the Syren 1-1/4 inch (32 mm) kit that is 5 feet (1.5 meters) diameter at 1:48 scale. This is oversized - I learned from the blueprints that the original wheel was 4 feet diameter, or 1 inch (25 mm) at 1:48. The kit has 10 spokes and the original had only eight. If I can find an eight spoke 1" diameter wheel I will use it instead. Maybe I will scratch build one.
 
The "mahogany" window trim came out pretty good, especially after a coat of acrylic satin varnish.
 
The vertical parts were paneled in a light colored wood, hence the "straw" color (you might recognize from my schooner build). This definitely was not a stock Navy paint color. The panel above the windows, and the aft pilot house bulkhead and chart desk front are painted an off white buff color. Again, this isn't what the blueprint painting schedule called for. It says to paint the walls and overhead green. The Navy did use a pale "puke" green in interiors, but the photos I have show an off white color with no hint of green (maybe the colors faded in the slides before I scanned them). And overheads were always painted white.

My main advice especially on this portion of the ship is to make sure to leave plenty of wood for fairing once the frames are in place. It isn’t all that much fun to remove later, but it is tons easier and will look nicer than if you need to add shims later. It is SO easy to accidentally take too much off when you cut the bevels off the model. 
 
Adam 

Tedious work, yes; but safer to fair as Pirate Adam suggests.

Just a little side project.   My local club is having a figure painting workshop at my shop in a couple of weeks.  So I printed a bunch more figures and painted one.  Mind you I have never painted a figure before.  I think maybe 20 years ago I added one to the Syren model which looked awful.  But one of our members who is an accomplished miniature figure painter will be doing the teaching.  I am very much looking forward to it.  One photo shows the unpainted version.  Painting figures is hard, LOL.  The eventual owner of this model requested that the officer be holding a rope leash in his left hand walking an English Bulldog!!  I have yet to print the English Bulldog.   Yikes, it should be interesting.
 

I think you did an outstanding job painting that figure, Chuck. Looks very impressive to me. 

Well, well, Some Idea! Lovely joinery - especially those dovetail joints. 
 
What kind of drawing mentorship are you looking for? You seem to be doing quite well already.

can you elaborate as to what minor alignment errors you made, it may help some of us who want to build this avoid them in the future?

She's showing her lines and looking very nice and sleek for her size.  Keep it up. 
 
Brian D

She's showing her lines and looking very nice and sleek for her size.  Keep it up. 
 
Brian D

Transoms being faired in.
 

 

The step - by - step...
 
The capstan is built almost exactly like the one for the Winnie.  The main difference is the center drum.  That added a bit of tedium to this task.  With the 3D printer however it can be made in one piece and perfectly shaped.  The benefit is that it saves so much time and it is so precise.  It will also not be seen at all when the capstan is completed.
 
You need to cut a 3/32" x 3/32" strip to use as the registration for the other layers.  Its a little big initially by design.  You need to sand it so the pieces are a nice press fit when you slide them on.   But dont force the layers onto the strip because you could break the thinner layers.  You can see some of the layers in the photo below.  The two at the top have had the laser char cleaned from the sides.  I used a sanding stick.  Dont worry about the three at the bottom yet.
 

Those are next...slide them onto the strip (or use an entirely different strip) gluing the three layers together.  But dont glue it to the strip as you will want to remove it.

See below
 

To make it easier to remove the char from these assemblies, you can place them onto a 3/32" strip as long as its a tight fit...otherwise it will fly off.  But then chock it in your hand drill and have at it.  Use a fine grit sanding stick.  Its soft wood so be careful.  This is a later process when most of the drum is  glued up in layers and being sanded. But I wanted to show you that you didnt have to sand them by hand.
 

You need to do that to the three center layers with the square holes first.  Then glue that on top of the slightly larger disc with the square etched onto it for reference. Then glue the top on and sand it as shown in the photo above with the drill.  I also sanded a slight dome shape into the top side of the drum while on the drill.   This makes the sides a bit thinner and gives the top a nice shape.  But keep the center area flat for the last small top layer.  I thinned the top this way until the side edge was 3/64" thick or close to it.
 

I am not sure if you can see the top shaped like a dome or rounded off but now that last small disc can be added.   But first go ahead and glue the drum assembly to the 3D printed center first.  Then snip off any excess 3/32" strip sticking out above the center and sand it flush.

Then glue the little disc on top and center it with the etched circle that should help you do just that.  Then its time for the whelps.   There are plenty of extra provided.  But sand them free of laser char and glue them to each face of the 3D printed center.   Make sure you but them flush against the bottom edge of the drum.  Note the laser etched mortices on both side of each whelp.  These are for the chocks.  Take a look at them before you glue them in position and flatten them out if need be with a small file.  Sometimes the etched surface isnt perfect and needs a little cleaning up.  A few swipes with a file should do the trick.

With the whelps all finished...start adding the chocks.  These will take some time.  The thicker chocks are the bottom row.  You will most likely have to sand both sides of the pie pieces and test them in position.  Make sure they fit tight in the mortices of the whelps.  Dont rush this as a clean tight fit is what makes the capstan look so good.   The sand the outside edge concave or convex with a curve depending on if it is the top or bottom row of chocks.
 
The chocks are over-sized so you will be shaping and testing and repeating the process.  Plan on spending an entire day building this capstan with care.

Then add the simulated bolts with some 20lb blk fishing line.  There are also bolts on the top of the drum.  The holes along the outside of the drum are for the pins that hold the capstan bars.  They are not for bolts and should remain as holes.  All the other laser cut holes around the center of the drum were places there for your simulated bolts.  So add those as well.
 

 
Thats it...it will take some time to do a decent job.  But remember that there are fewer deck fittings on this little sloop and therefor it is even more important to do a respectable job on them.  They will all be front and center and a focus point when anyone views the model.  You can pint it red or leave natural.  The contemporary model is painted red.   I havent decided yet.  What do you guys think?
 
There are also two pawls that were used to stop the capstan from turning.  Only one side was engaged at a time.  One goes to port and the other to starboard.  See the plans.  These were made from scrap 1/16" x 1/16" strips and glued into position.
 

 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Speaking of simulated bolts...someone was asking about them.
 
Here is the capstan which I am literally finishing up this afternoon.  So I figured its a good time to show the bolts in progress. It is all yellow cedar.  It has many bolts which add so much to its look when finished.   In this case I am using 20lb blk fishing line.  I just cut some sort lengths and stick them into some pre drilled holes.  Nothing difficult here.  They need to be a press fit so no glue is needed.  I am using a #73 bit for the holes.  Then just slice them off so they are slightly proud of the surface.  That is it.
 

 
I will have a step - by - step for the capstan later today hopefully.  The capstan is painted red on the contemporary model....sooo  I have yet another decision.  
 
But it turned out well.
 

 
Chuck