bdgiantman2

Thank you for the great pieces of advice you're sharing with all of us and this beautifuly made model ship. Your hawse timbers look perfect.
 
Brian D

Thank you for the great pieces of advice you're sharing with all of us and this beautifuly made model ship. Your hawse timbers look perfect.
 
Brian D

I had a feeling that would be getting better results using a table saw to make those slots for where the ribs mount to the keel or for the building jig block. *SIGHS* I really wish I had the money to afford a table saw. Knew that the scroll saw wasn't accurate enough for those cuts

Great looking first few ribs, Mr. Passaro, and thank you so much for the well explained instructions thus far. I am guessing that those grooves you have made in the taller ribs double up not only as the markers for the railings but also be the marker guides for the shorter ribs and using the same puzzle construction for them? I will look forward to much more on this project.
 
Brian D

Hello everyone, it's been a while since I last updated my progress on the shipyard but I managed to find some time to get an update in.
 
Day 25
I was able to get most of the cabinets painted up and finally started work on the benchtops. I forgot to take pictures of the painting, but who really wants to watch paint dry anyway?
Started off with my workstation area, just a simple corner desk that will hold my monitors and other assorted computer accessories. This section will be a few inches lower than the rest of the bench, for ergonomic reasons. I've found it hard to spend 8-10 hours a day at work on a 36" desktop. 

 
All of the bracing up, painted and ready for the tops to be installed.


 
Corner top installed.

 
More of the benchtops cut and installed.

 
Day 26
My original plan for the benchtop was to build it out of MDF, paint it black, then print out a bunch of old ship pictures and plans and glue then to the benchtop, then coat the whole thing in clear epoxy resin. That was until I found out that the price of MDF has just gotten stupid expensive. So I did some re-thinking and decided to go with some OSB and matte black Formica. This cut the benchtop cost in half.

Prepping the first piece of Formica for gluing.

 
and the first section is in.

 
Moving along with the Formica.




 
Day 27
With the Formica all installed it was time to trim the edges of the benchtop out. I went the cheap method with this and used 2x4's to make the trim. I ripped the 2x4's and rounded them on both sides to give a nice bullnose edge that is easy on the forearms. Again I forgot to take pictures of the ripping an rounding process, but here is the first piece going in.

 
Day 28
With the trim work in it was time to start moving a few things in. I had to clear off my current adjustable workbench so that I could get it painted up and the top modified to where it will work in my new shipyard. The benchtop edging was given a coat of stain and varnish and I moved my organizers in.

 
Day 29
I had a few short upper cabinets left over that I couldn't figure out what to do with, when it finally hit me. The would provide great overhead storage for my reloading powders and primers. They would be high enough to keep the grandkids from getting into them and still be accessible to my reloading bench. Had planned on installing a piece of 1" flat steel on the wall in this area and use magnets to hold my building plans on. Instead I installed a piece of steel angle iron to help support the uppers and also function as magnetic plan holder.

 
Finally I started moving my stash in. I left this corner open for the sole purpose of storing my future builds.

 
And I moved my reloading bench in as well. There will be additional shelves above the bench mounted to the stringers that are currently on the wall. Just need to get those built. I'm going to also make a few modifications to this bench to help hide some of the clutter, but that will come later on.

 
I've got my adjustable workbench out of the house and is currently waiting on paint and some trim. I'll have photos of that project on my next update. Just a few more items on my to-do list and the room should be ready to start creating some sawdust again.
 
Thank you all for stopping by.
 
-Brian
 
 
 

I had a feeling that would be getting better results using a table saw to make those slots for where the ribs mount to the keel or for the building jig block. *SIGHS* I really wish I had the money to afford a table saw. Knew that the scroll saw wasn't accurate enough for those cuts

After a delay due to life-stuff, I am back in the fiddleyard.
 
Having made the frame half-sections in pairs and fours (post #3) and then butt-jointed two together to make a complete frame (post #18), I did some quality checking. 
A few assemblies failed inspection and were remade from spare stock.  I made about 50% more than needed when milling the Swiss pear to cover the learning curve but, so far, I have only had to remake four frames.  All pieces got a very light sanding, had their identifying marks freshened up after all that handling and checked one last time.  Once satisfied, it was time to cut the slot in each that would locate it accurately where it belonged on the building board.  As bdgiantman2 mentions above, this stage appears demanding. The slot in each frame piece must be dead centre and a good fit on the spine running centrally on the board; if not, any slop will show up later and cause headache and grief. Getting this right started with the fussy approach taken earlier to getting each of the half-frames aligned precisely in the assembly jig.
So, to business. The butt-jointed frames all have their centre-line at a perfect right angle to the straight line across the top, sort of visible in this photo:

In order to put the slot consistently in the same place on all (50+) frames a jig and fixture were needed.
The fixture first. It consists of two pieces of hardwood, sapele I believe, planed smooth, square and parallel; an offcut of Swiss pear as a spacer the same thickness as the frames to be held; and a thumbscrew and M6 wood insert. A couple of woodscrews finished it off.
 

The pear was sandwiched between the two pieces of hardwood and then, after predrilling, two woodscrews pull them together.

The assembly must sit flat without any rocking. I ran a plane along the bottom to make sure. In use, the threaded insert will be at the back on the right and the thumbscrew faces the operator. 

The gap between the pear spacer and the thumbscrew is large enough to accommodate the widest of Berwick’s frames. A line is permanently marked in this gap and a clearance slot on the bottom is scribed accurately on it.

This fixture, with a frame clamped in place, will slide right and left between two fixed stops. The saw is prepared by mounting my sexy auxiliary fence with a travel stop to limit travel to the left and the standard Byrnes fence to the right. Trial and error produced a good, snug fit. 

Cutting the slot, with the fixture at full travel to the right:

… and to the left:

 
The finished slot:

A test piece was aligned, clamped and passed back and forth over the blade. It worked well, the test piece fitted snugly on the spine:

Time to try it for real. Profile ‘L’ is one of the wider profiles. Line up the centre-line, re-tighten the left and right stops and go.

Viewed from below after cutting but before removing the workpiece:
 

 
I am happy with the fit and, as long as I am careful lining up the joint on the profile assemblies and don’t touch the locking screws on the stops, they should all be consistent.

Fifty-three to go.

If good at using a scroll saw it could be done, but most likely wouldn't have as pretty an outcome as this laser product and a time-consuming attempt. Having wood files and proper sanding blocks are a big help either way. 
 
I personally have never used chisels building a model ship and honestly hesitant to try.  

McDonald's was the first job I had,  and I do remember the hysteria of some customers over that sandwich.  I agree it was overrated for what you got.

You and Mike do some of the cleanest plank work on the net.

Adding the forward cant frames went rather quickly. Fairing them took me about three days, maybe more. Transitioning the deadwood into each cant frame had to be done carefully. I'm always finding the need to refine the previous fairing work after new frames are added, though less each time.
 
I added the 3/64" P1 and P2 filler pieces to each side of the stem as well.


Mike

Keeping the cants vertical is really important. When the spacing started to get tight, I simply angled the machinist square to clear the frame already installed. A strip was used to hold the frame against the machinist square while the glue set. It was easy enough to get the right strip thickness by adding layers of painters tape. At the top of each frame, I added boxwood wedges to fill the gap between the frame and the numbered support strip. This ties everything together and should give a lot more support when fairing the cants.

It's hard to see the true run of the cant footing since some of these cants are further away from the keel than others. Actually, the square frames where the same way, giving me the false impression that they would not fair in properly. I'm sure that things will work out okay for the cants as well.

Mike
 

Your progress looks really good so far, Bruce. You also are at the place where I find myself in trouble most, getting the notch right for the building block - or with my case building a model of the Brig Eagle, the place where the keel and the keelson timbers will be connecting on the frames. 

Your models are fantastic, Ben!! And safe moving. I find it interesting that even though both of your ship models are British 5th rates, that the Winnie is that much bigger than Pegasus. Or was Pegasus actually a 6th rate?

That looks like going to become a sweet hobby office, Brian. Nice progress so far, and best of luck once all gets set up in there.
 
Brian D

I think full-size cabinetmakers would be jealous of what you have been able to accomplish with the binnacle and belfry. Not to mention the ship's wheel!

Very brief update: it's begun!

Beautiful work.

Hello MSW!!!
Sheesh, feel like I have to re-introduce myself. It's been so long!!!
Sometimes In our chosen hobby, we can lose the breeze in our sails once in a while.
 
It's usually something external that reignites the modelling itch. Received the latest Nautical Research Journal this week.
That woke it up!!!!
One of the promises to myself.... get this, and my Titanic build, up to date. 
 
Both masts have been stepped and glued in place.

I tried my best to get the rake just right.
Albeit not perfect, but not bad. 

I used a white glue. It gave me the most time to play with the angle and the like before it set in.
For some reason I don't have a pic of the glue dry, but it is barely visible.

Per the plans. 
The angle of the masts is roughly 11 degrees for the Main and 7 for the Fore.
I did the best I could. 

One the masts were set in and secure. I continued with setting the "internal" ropes. Those being ropes that terminate at the Fife rail. 
I imagine it would be a beast to get to these with shrouds already set in.
The Fore Topsail yard lifts were first. Secured with blocks and eyebolts already in the deck. 

Rinse and repeat, both sides are done.
I can then move forward with setting other ropes to the fife rail.
All rope is from Syren. I have both the old stock of Syren rope and some newer Ultra.
The Ultra rope is beautiful, but being a stubborn New Englander, waste not want not. The older stock will get weaved in. 

Once my "inner" rigging is done on the Fore mast. I want to move on to the Bowsprit.
Get that rigged in and work my way fore to stern setting ropes. 

Glad to be back!!!
 
Tom E 
 

I am going to follow this build, this ought to be very interesting. Have that book by Phillip Reed, as well as that same scroll saw. Amazing the details Mr. Reed was able to build into his models.
 
Brian D

I am going to follow this build, this ought to be very interesting. Have that book by Phillip Reed, as well as that same scroll saw. Amazing the details Mr. Reed was able to build into his models.
 
Brian D

I am going to follow this build, this ought to be very interesting. Have that book by Phillip Reed, as well as that same scroll saw. Amazing the details Mr. Reed was able to build into his models.
 
Brian D

I now have five frames completed along with scratch built sweep ports.
 
I added Yellow Cedar above the ports as filler pieces which extend to the sheer. To save some milling operations, that will be hidden later, I used Chuck's 5/32" laser cut top timbers. This nonuniform area will be covered up later with the upper hull planking. The five frames are mostly faired and the outer faces sanded close to the half breadth. Of course, there will be more work needed for final fairing which includes getting the sheer to a width of 5/32”.

The height gauge makes it much easier to find the proper height of the sweep port. Measurements for this are taken directly from the plan. The 4.66" height is well within my .005" margin of error.

I still need to reverse the tilt table on the mill in order to make it possible to do a scarph joint on one side of those long one piece floors. The setup doesn't take all that long to do, though I wouldn't want to make the change for every frame. With that in mind, I'm going to work the frames in larger groups rather than individually.
 
Mike

I added the keelson today.  This is made up from 4 laser cut lengths.   There are probably many ways to attack this.  But I decided to assemble all 4 pieces first.  There are scarph joints between each length.   Then I sanded it clean of laser char.   It may be hard to see below but I also drew a reference line down the center of the keelson.   This is where the bolts will go.  It was easier to mark the center of this 3/8" wide keelson now instead of when its on the model.  I used a compass opened to 3/16" with a pencil on one side.  I handy tool to have around.
 


I test fit it on the model.  The shape is so specific to each model after inboard that yes I had to tweak the bottom of the keelson and the bottom of the hull inboard to get a good fit in places.  I used various riflers and sanding sticks to match the curve and shape of the keelson as closely as possible.  Then the bolts were added.  I used 30 pound black fishing line.   One bolt goes every other frame.  This is except for the scarph joints which get two bolts.  Now the inboard side of the hull is completed for now.  Its nice and clean.   I can now return to planking the outboard side of the hull.
 

@bdgiantman2
Hello Brian,
the ropes are made of silk. The two ends were glued with superglue at the point marked in yellow. In order to create the largest possible contact surface for the glue, I cut off the two ends at an angle with a scalpel.
Thank you for the interest.