medic

I have the same one, forget who I got it from. I am happy with it for the price and it does what it was made to do. Just my 2 cents.

What is this 'timber vice' you are waiting on?  Do you have a link to one? 
 
Nice work on the deck fittings it appears.
 
Thanks!

Medic, I prefer to use PVA glue when possible. But when I have to negotiate tight bends, I prefer using thick CA with spray on accelerant. The thick CA prevents the glue from running all over the place - it's more gel than liquid. Apply sparingly, attach your planks, then use the accelerant. The reason I don't use this 100% is because CA joints are brittle and not as strong as PVA joints. And it's more expensive. 

I used CA occasionally (often at the stem, when I was in a rush), but tended to use PVA and pressure whenever possible.  You will need to narrow some planks, and you will find the thinner walnut will be much easier to work with - though brittle!

Hey, mate! I'm not a professional modeller either, but I think you did good with raw planking. I just want to say, that you shouldn't worry too much of the final result. It may look ugly when raw, but it'll look much, much better, when you do some finishing stuff like sanding, using wood fillers or paint. I did a couple kits myself (never finished tho) and it was always the same: "Oh, god, it sucks! How do they do it THAT perfect?!" turns into "Huh... looks good! I'm the king of the world!". Just be a bit patient, my friend :-)

I've finally decided to build basic deck first and then start with hull planking. In case somebody wants to buy the same model, I'll provide some explanation about improvements, which can get your build closer to original.
 
First of all, here's a colorized photo of Titanic's lifeboats:
 

 
Deck
 
All four parts of the deck combined on the skeleton:
 

 
First improvement
 
Manual suggests you do the planking first and then use mini-drill to sand down timbers, fore and aft. Since I've decided to build interior first, I did all this sanding right away. Never had a drill tho, used a file and sanding paper.
 

 
Pay attention to fore and aft in the manual (right bottom part of the picture) — they have incline. The original boats didn't have any (see the first pic). So you'd better do more sanding until the whole deck is straight.
 
Second improvement
 
Also, according to manual, you have to glue some magic planks (15) to the ends of the fore and aft decks (14):
 

 
Again, there were no such parts in original boat (see the first pic), so I had to lengthen a bit side parts of the deck, becase they were delibirately made shorter.
 
Minor planking improvement
 
Manual tells you to do the planking on fore and aft bases (13). I've added a black paper between planks to make them look more real (see the last pic in this post). Somehow manuals never tell you, how to imitate cracks between planks.
 
Side walls
 
Next thing is side walls (drawers, I guess):
 

 
Manual never says to put them in the water first, but you should or they'll break when glueing to the deck. I put them in a water and then clamped to the hull for a while to keep rounded shape.
 
Third improvement
 
Side walls also should be planked like fore and aft bases (see the first pic), which is not in the manual again. Right now I'm outta suitable planks, but will do as soon as I get them.
 
Fourth improvement
 
According to manual, side walls have drawers and thus they've made a square sockets for them, in which you have to put covers with small holes:
 

 
However, there weren't any drawers in these places (see the first pic). At least I didn't find any ones on photos or blueprints. Only small holes in planks, but no drawers, so I gonna skip them.
 
Flooring
 
Manual suggests you build the floor right in the hull, layer by layer. I did it another way and built the whole flooring block separately, then simply cut and sanded it.
 

 
I don't say it's the best way, but this will make things less messy. I'm always worried about excessive glue, so the less you put your finger/brush/whatsoever with glue inside the model the better :-)
 
Colors
 
I've also finally decided not to use paint, but instead use woodstain. I have teak and pine woodstains. Titanic's lifeboats were brown-white, so I'm gonna use teak for brown and highly diluted pine as white (very light yellow, actually). Here's a quick peek on how it's gonna look assembled (parts not glued yet):
 

Ah, I see now, thanks. I actually thought, that everybody imitates that carvel thingie with double planking. It's seems much easier, than single planking carvel.

So you say clipper will be harder to build? Yes, it's 1:96, but the final model is not small.
 
I also was thinking about HMS Jalouse from Jotika, but didn't like how parts were cut. Yes, I know, they make good kits, but in my opinion MSW kits are WAY better: great manuals, nice cuts and wood quality. And Jotika kits have a bunch of sawdust in the box :-)

I have really enjoyed your effort to post this build. I apologize for not saying so earlier.
 
A couple of months ago I had a European friend purchase the D Agostini Titanic lifeboat for me and mail it to Seattle where I live. While waiting for it to arrive I found a build log where the builder did not do well with the clinker planking. I did the same as you and researched for a successful build log on clinker and could not find any. I did find a series of You Tube videos by a man building a full size clinker dory and it was helpful. He beveled the top of each plank after it was in place. He did that as he was fitting the next plank. He also tapered the ends of each plank as you and Popeye discussed.
 
Seeing your success encourages me. I have one question, if you have time to answer. I do not understand the final and last keel modification that you made. Do you have time to try to describe and photograph it in more detail for me, a novice. Your planking and modification tutorial is my bible.
 
Popeye, knowing you are reading this thread, I see your posts on Dr Middleton's Victory thread. Perhaps you may recall a couple of years ago when I described his vast professional background. He was the doctor of choice for people in need of major facial and hand reconstructive surgery. It is probably no surprise that he also became an accomplished model builder.
 
Respectfully,
John Maguire
Seattle

Patience on picking your next subject.  That being said, there is nothing more pleasing to the eye than the clipper.....the pinnacle of the age of sail.  True, I love men of war, but clippers are special.  I've had good luck with MS kits.  Just keep in mind the Flying Fish is a fairly small scale 1:96 I believe.  

Thanx, guys, for your support! It's really encouraging.
 
I'm currently preparint my boat for painting. I even bought an airbrush for that. Will try to finish with the hull tomorrow, if nothing goes wrong.
 
Also thinking of my next project. Really love, what Model Shipways does. Have my eyes on Flying Fish, a Catty Sark's sister ship.

planking job looks splendid!   impressive looking build as well 

Congratulations on this milestone.  Coming along just beautifully.

That is one impressive lifeboat, even without the paint. 

Today I've finally finished with planking. Yay! It of course not perfect and has a bunch of flaws, but this was my first clinker anyway. Here's how it looks right now, not covered with any filler or paint:
 

 

 

 
More minor improvements
 
After planking I completely removed and restored the keel (yes, for the third time!), made it much more close to the original. The previous version was sanded down and instead of it I've built a new one from 3 x 3 x 4 basswod plank, adding extra parts above the deck inside the boat.
 
Also I've covered deck with planks as well. They make it look more authentic, but the main reason was to hide that stupid difference in direction of wood fibers on fore/aft and side deck parts: side - lengthwise, fore/aft - atwart. No idea, why Artisania Latina made them this way, but it looked bad even when woodstained.
 
Next step is to cover the hull with white wood filler and varnish. Should look sexy :-)

I opted to finish the wood with tung oil, and I have been really pleased with the results so far.  It really adds a nice luster to the walnut.  I'll try to post some before and after pics sometime soon.
 
Keep any and all questions coming!

Looking good, Medic. Great job if it's your first build! Probably no need to steam bend the second layer of planking unless the bend is very severe, e.g. there are some sharp angles at the stern of your ship. Maybe 3-4 planks a most. You will need to taper the planks as you did with your first layer, though. 
 
Incidentally, are you an MD? I'm an oncologist. 

Keep up the good work Medic. On your second planking you will be using thinner material so it will be a little easier. Apply what you have learned from the first planking and you should have no problems. If you can get your hands on a couple of books on planking that will help to make things easier.
David B

And here is my post sanding and filling pics.............all set for second layer. Any last minute tips and advice welcome. The 0.5mm veneer of the second layer of walnut planks seems to wrap around the hull quite well. Is there a need to  bend these planks manually as per the first layer?
Cheers
Medic

Hi Medic,
 
Nice work so far!  I too am working on the Racehorse (on and off for several years now, as work and family allow), and have the deck furniture and rigging left to go.  I'm happy to answer any questions you may have up to where my progress has stopped.  
 
As far as the kit goes, I find the instructions lacking and the parts sometimes less than optimal.  That said, you get what you pay for, and I chose this kit as it was one of the cheapest.  I figured, if I screwed it up too bad, I'd give it a Viking funeral at sea.  So far, it has not come to that.  Good thing there are so many experienced builders here to show the way!
 
This is my first model too, and I chose to take it slow and try to learn while I go.  As such, I treated the first planking as a primer on how to plank, so that my second planking would look good.  Feel free to screw up as much as you'd like on the first planking, as no one will ever see it!  You can sand any bumps to oblivion, and if you mis-fared any of the bulkheads, after you finish the first planking is a great time to use sandpaper and filler to make things right.  You've hit the point where you will either have to start spilling planks, or start reducing the width from full at midship down to half original at the prow and stern.  I chose the latter route with decent results.   
 
Please let me know if you have more questions and I will do my best to answer them.  There is also a nice build log from Zyxuz here:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1732-hms-racehorse-by-zyxuz-sergal-scale-147/?hl=racehorse
 
Cheers, and good luck!
Tony

I had too many pictures to post in one reply so here the steps to get to where I am now. Finishing with the first layer of planking. It was pretty much a guess where the planking ends at the stern end of the keel, poor instructions (in my mind) and drawings that really don't show where and how they should look, especially when keeping in mind that the second layer needs to end properly at the stern. I feathered the ends of the planks at the stern to give a solid gluing spot for the second layer of planks as well where the bottom of hull meets the keel to make for an easier transition for the final planking. 
    After the first layer of planking on(the balsa inserts gave a nice base for gluing and pinning the planks), I then sanded the planks smooth and then filled in the gaps with a tube of wood putty I had in the shop,( it was colored Red Oak, hence the red color). A second pass with 220 & 320 grit sandpaper gives it a nice smooth surface.
   I have also started laying the deck planking. I am just gluing them down but the plans show "nails" at the end of the planks, but calls for coloring the ends of the planks with pencil to give definition. The plans make no mention of using the nails in laying the planks. I am just marking the nails with an ultra fine black marker, I am suspicious that the nails would split the planks quite often and am sure that down the path of building I will find a nail embedded somewhere that will be in the way.
    Any suggestions or comments are welcome. And a planking I will go. 

I have finished putting the deck planking on. Next is to attach the first 2 planks (gunwales) to the side of the deck from the bow to the stern, attaching to the transom.
 
The transom seems to be 1/4" (6mm) wider than the deck. From the drawings the side planks look like they should be matching up to the edges of the transom, however the transom is too wide.I have attached a couple pics, I hope they are clear enough. Looking at Dubz model of the Alert, I got the impression he fabricated his own transom, but it is still wider than the deck.
 
Any suggestions or input, should I leave the transom wider than the deck or trim it to fit the width of the deck? 

Row thanks for you very kind remarks, regarding the cabin sides the part that I am concerned about is the pine sides that are dovetailed, the cabin doors which are mahogany would remain as bright work as would the cockpit.
 
Regarding the free sailing, there is a fairly large area that is designated and roped off for swimming and at the appropriate times it would be a good place to sail her, the depth is also Ok and the bottom is smooth and sandyish there.
 
Owen very nice work on the model, what did you do to achieve the caulking on the decks?
 
Thanks to all for the likes.
 
Michael 

Hi all. Thanks to all for the Likes so far! Here are some more photos. These are mainly of the decks and bulkheads, etc. Future build logs will show the masts, bowsprit, figurehead, gold decorative work and the rigging (which I must admit, is the thing I enjoy the least and regularly stuff up the most!!). Anyhow, pls enjoy these photos first.

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