Landrotten Highlander

Head figure of Swedish royal yacht Amphion 1778 (3D model , finished )

Mercury Bust
for Brig "Mercury" (set of Amati)
Scale: 1:64
Material: pink pear
Dimensions block of wood (approximately): 35х15х18
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...a little more process...
 

 

 

 

 

 
Unfortunately the rest of the work photographed. Not enough time.
 
 

Rob I have the original portholes they pulled out nicely with the flush cut pliers before I started to fill the divets, they will push back in when the painting is done.
 
I had to pop the railing on loosely to see how colour matched and I am very happy with the match. In the pictures you can see the middle lower stanchions that are painted silver and the top rail and the two outside lower sets of stanchions look close enough to pass me-thinks
 

 

 

 
That's it for today A very satisfying bit of work.
 
Michael

Thanks for all the visits and Likes.
This whole process is a huge learning curve for me as well no matter how much I have learned in the past it seems that each step presents new challenges. The simple act of matching a colour can be quite frustrating.
 
I have been working on filling the lower divets in the hull and working at getting the colour matched at the same time, there is more orange in the hull read than I had thought.
 

 

 
The lighting selection in the camera gives me different things to look for and in daylight it is different again. The model will eventually be displayed again in a public space with modern lighting.
 
The stanchions are getting close to looking like all the rest.
 
 

 
Michael
 
 

I have not had much time to work on Atalanta lately.  I got suckered into restoring a friend's tourist quality model.  We have all heard the story...  "Dearly departed Dad loved it so much and it reminds me of him."  Unfortunately, dear dad had no compunction about smoking in the same room with it or spilling a beverage over it.  At least the local hospital auxilliary will get a nice donation as payment for my effort.
 
The deck has been scraped down and two coats of Watco's have been applied, separated by 24 hours between coats.  The shine is because I was not patient enough to wait until tomorrow to take pictures.
 

 

 
Next on the agenda is the steering apparatus.  I actually was looking forward to making a ship's wheel.  I have never made one and this was one of my driving reasons behind purchasing a mill.  On the plans there are faint pencil markings for where the wheel was placed.  These markings were obviously not part of the original design.  My guess is that a wheel was installed when she refitted and coppering in 1778.  There is also a model (not on display) at the Royal Museum Greenwich which definitely shows a tiller.  So, a tiller it is.  I made my tiller of a less extreme angle than shown on the model.  The end of the model's tiller looked like it was almost five feet from the deck.  I made mine to end just above waist level to facilitate handling.  The model also shows a cabinet built around the rudder head.  This definitely was not on the plan so I am leaving it exposed.  I spent too much time making that rudder head look good to cover it up unnecessarily.
 
The tiller is made of castello with a knob of pear.  Looking through the RMG collection of tillers I found everything from what looked like a 4x4 to a fancifully carved piece of art.  I did a simple embossing of the sides.  The top was left plain.
 

 

 

 

 

continue....
 

 

 

 

 

 

Little steps.....:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello friends.
 
Construction error on my part to the main frames
IV ( 27 Bow ) to  IX ( 69 Stern )
These frames have only one floor.
 
These following picturs show the correction on the main frames.
 
Karl
 
 
Teil 4

I correct the color.

Et voilà, c'est complété.
 
It was a nice  week end project to build.
 
For the next build, knowing that the better the plans, the better are the chance to produce better results.
What are the better set of plans available on the market?
 
I guess I could build the same  as the next project of a member of MSW.
 
There is also another important factor, the model must be nice to my eyes.

Hello,
 
On the monograph drawings, the decoration is not symmetrical as in the original drawings.
Here is the realization of Jacques Maillière at 1/24.
 

 

 

 
Regards,
GD

Thanks all for the encouraging remarks.
 
Finished drilling all the holes (gave me a stiff neck bending down to line up the first hole in each stanchion) and fitted them onto the deck.
 

 
Threaded all four wires through that was the easy part. Before that I popped the handrail off the old stanchions
 

 
And dry fitted it to the stanchions this was the difficult part.
 

 
Ended up with needing to use the little clamps to gently hold it in place.
 

 
tomorrow I will modify the clamps so that there is a small metal bar that holds the rail on to the posts. I will soft solder the rail to the posts, this was how the first posts were attached. The wires are the right color with some flat varnish on them so when it is all assembled I will give them a light coat of flat.
 
Slow but its getting there.
 
Michael
 
 

Jeff I am glad that this was useful for you.
 
I finished the turning of the stanchions this morning, here is a Step by step of the process.
 
The form tool was used to create 6 bulbs The bulb diameter is .065" and the shaft diameter is .045"  the bulbs are on .085 centres. The top bulb was trimmed to its center on the top side to accept the handrail.
 

 

 

 

 
the form tool was switched for the narrow tool to finish off the bottom, the lowest bulb was trimmed on both sides to create the foot.
 

 

 
Next a #4 file was used to create the small taper at the bottom
 

 
next the stanchion was separated with the jewelers the lathe was stopped for this operation
 

 
The finished stanchions, a few of the first ones had some minor variations so a few extras were turned up to replace them. I will leave the set up on the lathe until I have made sure that I do not need to make any more.
 

 
Next comes the drilling.
 
Michael
 

Wefalck I have done the end mill out of broken drills too, in fact I have broken drills on purpose to get a particular diameter of end mill Mostly I have done this with number drills.
 
This drill however I sharpened by eye on my diamond stone like this.
 

 

 
And a better pic of the stanchions.
 

 
Michael

Jan the pictures are lying.
 
Wefalck,  I only made the ball handles on the prototype, they take a long time to make.
 
Actually Nils I am hoping that the ship will look like it hasn't been repaired and looks like it was built in 1920 something.
 
Mark and Denis thanks for you positive comments.
 
I spent a bit of time in the big city today visiting my silversmith friend who just happened to have some .8mm nickel silver pins which I pulled through the draw-plate down to .45mm. so I now have enough wire to fix the melted sections and all other very bent parts.
 

 

 
I also noticed that the stanchions are painted which will make matching the discolored ones easier to match.
 
Michael
 
 

Another set of eight frames has been completed up to 2-fore, you can see how light the new pear framing is in color compared to the recovered old framing, the floor fillers for this section of framing has only been glued to the fore side of each frame so as to be able to "float" as per druxeys advice.
I am currently sanding and fairing it to match the after side framing.
 
Ben

This is called cornucopia.

Hello friends.
Main frames.
Karl
 
 
 
Part 3

Again thanks for all the positive feedback and for the quiet visits. I set up the soldering area today and put all the broken ends back on the top handrail stanchions. I had a couple of minor issues but they will be solved fairly easily I think.
 
to recap this is what happened to the top handrail, it was bent over and 6 of the stanchions were broken at mostly the bottom rail.

 
I began adding the broken bottom parts of the handrail used the #4 tip
 

 

 
All 6 soldered on with a couple of these to add to my work.
 

 

 
Next task was to do a quick test fit
 

 
so I am relatively happy with the effort. Now to clean it up and fix the meltdowns.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 

Slowly getting there with the top wing! A gap between the two pieces where the plywood is supposed to have met. I´ll probably put a small strip of plywood there. I should have measured the two wings and checked with the length of the plywood strips before gluing the pieces together. 
 
Below the wing is the "jig" for bending the plywood. It was difficult to see where the bend should be. I tried to measure but you can see that the left wing front end plywood has more contact with the center beam than the right hand. If I were to rebuild I would photocopy the plywood strips and first use the paper part to check where it should bend. Then put the paper part on the plywood part and bend to make sure I get a correct shape/bend in the proper place so to speak.
 
When this wing is done I´ll start on the ailerons. That will be fun but a challenge as it involves lots of soldering. I have not done any soldering the last 35 ys...
 
All tips and advice is welcome
 

Keith, blocks made colleague Mirek CNC milling machine.
 
(http://modelshipworl...user/875-mirek/)
 
I do not know the technology of CNC machines. Many fellow modelers have in their models blocks colleague Mirek.
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 

 
 
 
Pawel

Fig- 60 The first 20 Frames in place, complete with Pillars, Ladder, Keel and Stringers and some Plating, which we will cover a little later in the proceedings.  
As may be imagined, having got to this stage - half way -  I was very keen to see if I was on the right track with creating this model centre section, so added some Plating right up to and including a short section of the  Bulwarks, stays and all -  and it looked to me to be OK, I was on the right road.  However, because I had started in the centre and so from now on had to work both fore and aft by adding another ten Frames to each end, most of this Plating became more of a problem than an asset, and was later removed, as we shall see, and refitted in longer lengths.  We learn as we proceed.
 
You may note also that the main hatch is also present on both the Main Deck and Tween-Deck.  This was also removed and remade, and will be covered later, together with the reasons why - a cautionary tale.

Another photo 
 

 

 

Saturday 28 JAN 2017
 
It has been I while since I posted any progress... it goes rather slowly.
I've been putting more hours into a paper for work than into my model... plus I am getting injections in my left eye to correct a condition with my vision.  It has affected modelling and  my day job.  I spend hours reading engineering drawings and documents.
 
I have branch retinal vein occlussion caused by macular edema.
I have a fluid build up (bump) at the back of my eye very near the focal point that causes lines and print to pull together.
I occasionally still see a fine black dot due to my last (first) injection.  Two more to go and hopefully the fluid pocket is gone and things reshape back to near normal or better yet.. normal.
 
Modelling isn't a race but it does keep calling me downstairs.