ca.shipwright

Nicely done! It does go slow with the rigging doesn't it?

Put the sides on the keel first. then the false keel bottom and sand flush to the sides. It looks better that way.

Put the sides on the keel first. then the false keel bottom and sand flush to the sides. It looks better that way.

Chris,
You will love you new shop. Lighting and dust collection are critical as already stated. I was looking at you tool layout and have a couple of recommendations.
 
Your Jim Byrnes tools all use the stock the long way. They should align with the long edge of the table. Using the saw against the wall will cause you problems- not enough room for the runout. Same problem will exist with the thickness sander. The run-out will go into the oscillating sander.
 
I find like any table saw, I use the Byrnes saw from the end of my bench so I can push the stock through. The thickness sander is a pull through machine and is offset from my saw.
 
Take a look at post #41 to see what I mean.
 
As for buying a 10" table saw, a contractor's saw is all you need. Don't get a floor model unless you are going to use it and store it in the garage. This tool makes an awful mess; not something I would use in my boatyard. As for a thickness planer,
you will only need it if you buy rough stock. If you buy S2S (surfaced 2 sides) milled lumber, the table saw will do the job of squaring up the stock.
 
As an alternative, see if the local schools have a woodworking class and they will probably more than happy to help out if needed. A cabinet or millwork shop for the same.
 
I hope some of this helps.
 
Regards

Al,
looking at your pictures, it appears that you are going to need stealers in the area between the last bulkhead and the sternpost. You can see that the planks are starting to curve up and this will produce problems as you progress.

Doug,
Your fix looks very good. If you are concerned about the rabbet, then you can glue a thin strip to the outsides of the keel  after you mount it and after that a thin strip to the bottom, a false keel. Since the planking will tuck under the sides of the thin strip attached to the keel, this will give you a real rabbet although it is simulated.
 
I hope this helps.

Doug,
Your fix looks very good. If you are concerned about the rabbet, then you can glue a thin strip to the outsides of the keel  after you mount it and after that a thin strip to the bottom, a false keel. Since the planking will tuck under the sides of the thin strip attached to the keel, this will give you a real rabbet although it is simulated.
 
I hope this helps.

Very nice Darrell. Thanks for sharing the order in which you did all this. It will come in handy for my build.
 
Regards

Very nice Darrell. Thanks for sharing the order in which you did all this. It will come in handy for my build.
 
Regards

Jesse,
When you actually punch the nails in the copper plate, aren't you punching it on the inside of the plate so the nail heads protrude on the outside surface when glued on the hull?
 
Regards

Chris,
You will love you new shop. Lighting and dust collection are critical as already stated. I was looking at you tool layout and have a couple of recommendations.
 
Your Jim Byrnes tools all use the stock the long way. They should align with the long edge of the table. Using the saw against the wall will cause you problems- not enough room for the runout. Same problem will exist with the thickness sander. The run-out will go into the oscillating sander.
 
I find like any table saw, I use the Byrnes saw from the end of my bench so I can push the stock through. The thickness sander is a pull through machine and is offset from my saw.
 
Take a look at post #41 to see what I mean.
 
As for buying a 10" table saw, a contractor's saw is all you need. Don't get a floor model unless you are going to use it and store it in the garage. This tool makes an awful mess; not something I would use in my boatyard. As for a thickness planer,
you will only need it if you buy rough stock. If you buy S2S (surfaced 2 sides) milled lumber, the table saw will do the job of squaring up the stock.
 
As an alternative, see if the local schools have a woodworking class and they will probably more than happy to help out if needed. A cabinet or millwork shop for the same.
 
I hope some of this helps.
 
Regards

Chris,
You will love you new shop. Lighting and dust collection are critical as already stated. I was looking at you tool layout and have a couple of recommendations.
 
Your Jim Byrnes tools all use the stock the long way. They should align with the long edge of the table. Using the saw against the wall will cause you problems- not enough room for the runout. Same problem will exist with the thickness sander. The run-out will go into the oscillating sander.
 
I find like any table saw, I use the Byrnes saw from the end of my bench so I can push the stock through. The thickness sander is a pull through machine and is offset from my saw.
 
Take a look at post #41 to see what I mean.
 
As for buying a 10" table saw, a contractor's saw is all you need. Don't get a floor model unless you are going to use it and store it in the garage. This tool makes an awful mess; not something I would use in my boatyard. As for a thickness planer,
you will only need it if you buy rough stock. If you buy S2S (surfaced 2 sides) milled lumber, the table saw will do the job of squaring up the stock.
 
As an alternative, see if the local schools have a woodworking class and they will probably more than happy to help out if needed. A cabinet or millwork shop for the same.
 
I hope some of this helps.
 
Regards

Well, I got tired of the short ropes that came out with a 8 foot board so I added some length to see what happened. I was able to get almost 90% yield out of this lash-up. The additional piece was a piece of IKEA kick board for cabinets. It has a routed groove on the back. I added a tenion to the bottom of the moving end to fit the grove. Now I don't have to run back and forth to keep it from falling off the board.
 
And, I have one more kick board!
 
Pictures attached.
 
Regards

Chris,
You will love you new shop. Lighting and dust collection are critical as already stated. I was looking at you tool layout and have a couple of recommendations.
 
Your Jim Byrnes tools all use the stock the long way. They should align with the long edge of the table. Using the saw against the wall will cause you problems- not enough room for the runout. Same problem will exist with the thickness sander. The run-out will go into the oscillating sander.
 
I find like any table saw, I use the Byrnes saw from the end of my bench so I can push the stock through. The thickness sander is a pull through machine and is offset from my saw.
 
Take a look at post #41 to see what I mean.
 
As for buying a 10" table saw, a contractor's saw is all you need. Don't get a floor model unless you are going to use it and store it in the garage. This tool makes an awful mess; not something I would use in my boatyard. As for a thickness planer,
you will only need it if you buy rough stock. If you buy S2S (surfaced 2 sides) milled lumber, the table saw will do the job of squaring up the stock.
 
As an alternative, see if the local schools have a woodworking class and they will probably more than happy to help out if needed. A cabinet or millwork shop for the same.
 
I hope some of this helps.
 
Regards

Well, I got tired of the short ropes that came out with a 8 foot board so I added some length to see what happened. I was able to get almost 90% yield out of this lash-up. The additional piece was a piece of IKEA kick board for cabinets. It has a routed groove on the back. I added a tenion to the bottom of the moving end to fit the grove. Now I don't have to run back and forth to keep it from falling off the board.
 
And, I have one more kick board!
 
Pictures attached.
 
Regards

Chris,
You will love you new shop. Lighting and dust collection are critical as already stated. I was looking at you tool layout and have a couple of recommendations.
 
Your Jim Byrnes tools all use the stock the long way. They should align with the long edge of the table. Using the saw against the wall will cause you problems- not enough room for the runout. Same problem will exist with the thickness sander. The run-out will go into the oscillating sander.
 
I find like any table saw, I use the Byrnes saw from the end of my bench so I can push the stock through. The thickness sander is a pull through machine and is offset from my saw.
 
Take a look at post #41 to see what I mean.
 
As for buying a 10" table saw, a contractor's saw is all you need. Don't get a floor model unless you are going to use it and store it in the garage. This tool makes an awful mess; not something I would use in my boatyard. As for a thickness planer,
you will only need it if you buy rough stock. If you buy S2S (surfaced 2 sides) milled lumber, the table saw will do the job of squaring up the stock.
 
As an alternative, see if the local schools have a woodworking class and they will probably more than happy to help out if needed. A cabinet or millwork shop for the same.
 
I hope some of this helps.
 
Regards

Well, I got tired of the short ropes that came out with a 8 foot board so I added some length to see what happened. I was able to get almost 90% yield out of this lash-up. The additional piece was a piece of IKEA kick board for cabinets. It has a routed groove on the back. I added a tenion to the bottom of the moving end to fit the grove. Now I don't have to run back and forth to keep it from falling off the board.
 
And, I have one more kick board!
 
Pictures attached.
 
Regards

Thanks Dave. This really helps.
 
Regards

Thanks Dave. This really helps.
 
Regards

Chris,
You will love you new shop. Lighting and dust collection are critical as already stated. I was looking at you tool layout and have a couple of recommendations.
 
Your Jim Byrnes tools all use the stock the long way. They should align with the long edge of the table. Using the saw against the wall will cause you problems- not enough room for the runout. Same problem will exist with the thickness sander. The run-out will go into the oscillating sander.
 
I find like any table saw, I use the Byrnes saw from the end of my bench so I can push the stock through. The thickness sander is a pull through machine and is offset from my saw.
 
Take a look at post #41 to see what I mean.
 
As for buying a 10" table saw, a contractor's saw is all you need. Don't get a floor model unless you are going to use it and store it in the garage. This tool makes an awful mess; not something I would use in my boatyard. As for a thickness planer,
you will only need it if you buy rough stock. If you buy S2S (surfaced 2 sides) milled lumber, the table saw will do the job of squaring up the stock.
 
As an alternative, see if the local schools have a woodworking class and they will probably more than happy to help out if needed. A cabinet or millwork shop for the same.
 
I hope some of this helps.
 
Regards

Greetings,
This is my first build log and my third wooden ship model  The Armed Virginia Sloop and Benjamin W. Latham being the first two. I choose HMB Endeavour as a build because I was lucky enough to visit the replica when it stopped in Oxnard, California, several years ago. I was very impressed and put this kit on the list for a future build.
 
To begin, the usual kit inventory was conducted, and, it appeared that all material was present. I was especially impressed with the Corel draughts, They were printed on very heavy weight stock and nice and clear. Especially helpful were the isometric assembly drawings. The smaller assemblies were printed in over scale rather than 1:1 for clarity.
 
The directions are a challenge. It's read and read again. When I finally got the syntax used in the instructions, things became much clearer. They reference the drawing numbers as well as part numbers for each assembly step which is a huge help.
 
The center keel and bulkheads are a soft plywood, the sub-decks are a walnut plywood which actually fir over the bulkhead extensions with minimum adjustment- a pleasant surprise. I'm not sure I like the bow filler treatment Corel Uses. It still leaves a considerable void.  I would prefer the solid carved block and I may go this route instead. I'm still trying to decide how I will do the rabbet. There is no mention on this in Corel's instructions. From the plans , it looks like the sides and the bottom of the keel is boxed below the bottom of the bulkheads producing a rabbet of sorts.
 
Any ideas  with the rabbet would be greatly appreciated.
 
 
Dry fitted all of the hull parts and now it's on to the glue up
 
Pictures will follow.

Here is my dust collection system for my shop tools. It consists of 1" PVC schedule 40 pipe, ball valves at each machine that can be opened or closed. and a 8 gallon Shop Vac. All the joints are press fitted, not glued which allows for rearrangement when needed.
 
The ball valves on all the machines except for the one I am operating are closed. This keeps the suction in the line strong. It is no bother since  I only use one machine at a time. The Shop Vac resides outside the door of the shop to keep the noise down.
 
This is an efficient flexible inexpensive system.
 
Hope you find this useful
 
Regards

Greetings,
It's hard to believe it has been a little over a month since my last update.Things are going slowly now that we are in the detail work of masting and rigging. Most of the deck work has been done.
 
First, I am making my own rope. I gave up on trying to find a source for linen thread in the various diameters that I need after spending hours on the internet and getting no responses from several European companies. I an using crocheting thread in the sized 5, 8, and 10 for the standing rigging. Making 3-strand rope out of the 5 gives a good fore stay and serves nicely. The 8 gives a good shroud. The 10 is for seizing. I use the 8 for lashing between hearts.
 
I know the difference between serving and worming. In the AOS, it shows the foremost shroud wormed. Which would be correct? It looks like worming at this scale would be extremely difficult if not impossible. I am serving the fore most and aft most on each set of shrouds. The interior shrouds will be left plain. I am having a lot of problems getting the seizing to slide on the served rope. Sliding opens one end of the serving and compresses the other. I don't know what to do here. Maybe painting the served shroud with dilute white glue which I use on all seizings would set the serving allowing the seizing to slide. Any ideas would be appreciated. I am planning to use the clove hitch for the ratlines in the 10 thread size
 
I have stepped the masts and the bowspirt and installed the foremast stays and partially rigged the bowspirt. I assembled the canon and placed them on the main deck. The barrels will have to remain in the elevated position. It appears that my bulworks are too high or my deck is too low. Either way this will have to do as the fix would entail a major rebuild. I'm good with this. I am going to rig the canon with the outhall lines and breach ropes. The train tackle will not be done. I think it will look too crowded. I am using Chuck Pissaro's 2 and 3 mm hooks. They are fantastic. I also used the hooks for the rudder cable on the quarterdeck.
 
Two questions about the mainmast forestay. It looks like it splits and goes p & s around the foremast- a loop, joins back to a single line. Is this correct? And, I can't identify where it terminates at the bow.
 
The bompers are giving me fits. I have made them twice and can't seem to get them to work. I will get them right eventually. I am also concurrently working on the yard foot ropes and other attachments to break the monotony of repeating tasks.
 
I have had some places where due to lack of space, or the order of assembly, seizing is not possible. In these cases I have resorted to my Boy Scout training and use two half hitches which slip down and then lock tight.
 
I have a couple of pictures attached. Sorry, I can't get them to rotate.
 
Regards,

Greetings,
It's hard to believe it has been a little over a month since my last update.Things are going slowly now that we are in the detail work of masting and rigging. Most of the deck work has been done.
 
First, I am making my own rope. I gave up on trying to find a source for linen thread in the various diameters that I need after spending hours on the internet and getting no responses from several European companies. I an using crocheting thread in the sized 5, 8, and 10 for the standing rigging. Making 3-strand rope out of the 5 gives a good fore stay and serves nicely. The 8 gives a good shroud. The 10 is for seizing. I use the 8 for lashing between hearts.
 
I know the difference between serving and worming. In the AOS, it shows the foremost shroud wormed. Which would be correct? It looks like worming at this scale would be extremely difficult if not impossible. I am serving the fore most and aft most on each set of shrouds. The interior shrouds will be left plain. I am having a lot of problems getting the seizing to slide on the served rope. Sliding opens one end of the serving and compresses the other. I don't know what to do here. Maybe painting the served shroud with dilute white glue which I use on all seizings would set the serving allowing the seizing to slide. Any ideas would be appreciated. I am planning to use the clove hitch for the ratlines in the 10 thread size
 
I have stepped the masts and the bowspirt and installed the foremast stays and partially rigged the bowspirt. I assembled the canon and placed them on the main deck. The barrels will have to remain in the elevated position. It appears that my bulworks are too high or my deck is too low. Either way this will have to do as the fix would entail a major rebuild. I'm good with this. I am going to rig the canon with the outhall lines and breach ropes. The train tackle will not be done. I think it will look too crowded. I am using Chuck Pissaro's 2 and 3 mm hooks. They are fantastic. I also used the hooks for the rudder cable on the quarterdeck.
 
Two questions about the mainmast forestay. It looks like it splits and goes p & s around the foremast- a loop, joins back to a single line. Is this correct? And, I can't identify where it terminates at the bow.
 
The bompers are giving me fits. I have made them twice and can't seem to get them to work. I will get them right eventually. I am also concurrently working on the yard foot ropes and other attachments to break the monotony of repeating tasks.
 
I have had some places where due to lack of space, or the order of assembly, seizing is not possible. In these cases I have resorted to my Boy Scout training and use two half hitches which slip down and then lock tight.
 
I have a couple of pictures attached. Sorry, I can't get them to rotate.
 
Regards,

Greetings,
It's hard to believe it has been a little over a month since my last update.Things are going slowly now that we are in the detail work of masting and rigging. Most of the deck work has been done.
 
First, I am making my own rope. I gave up on trying to find a source for linen thread in the various diameters that I need after spending hours on the internet and getting no responses from several European companies. I an using crocheting thread in the sized 5, 8, and 10 for the standing rigging. Making 3-strand rope out of the 5 gives a good fore stay and serves nicely. The 8 gives a good shroud. The 10 is for seizing. I use the 8 for lashing between hearts.
 
I know the difference between serving and worming. In the AOS, it shows the foremost shroud wormed. Which would be correct? It looks like worming at this scale would be extremely difficult if not impossible. I am serving the fore most and aft most on each set of shrouds. The interior shrouds will be left plain. I am having a lot of problems getting the seizing to slide on the served rope. Sliding opens one end of the serving and compresses the other. I don't know what to do here. Maybe painting the served shroud with dilute white glue which I use on all seizings would set the serving allowing the seizing to slide. Any ideas would be appreciated. I am planning to use the clove hitch for the ratlines in the 10 thread size
 
I have stepped the masts and the bowspirt and installed the foremast stays and partially rigged the bowspirt. I assembled the canon and placed them on the main deck. The barrels will have to remain in the elevated position. It appears that my bulworks are too high or my deck is too low. Either way this will have to do as the fix would entail a major rebuild. I'm good with this. I am going to rig the canon with the outhall lines and breach ropes. The train tackle will not be done. I think it will look too crowded. I am using Chuck Pissaro's 2 and 3 mm hooks. They are fantastic. I also used the hooks for the rudder cable on the quarterdeck.
 
Two questions about the mainmast forestay. It looks like it splits and goes p & s around the foremast- a loop, joins back to a single line. Is this correct? And, I can't identify where it terminates at the bow.
 
The bompers are giving me fits. I have made them twice and can't seem to get them to work. I will get them right eventually. I am also concurrently working on the yard foot ropes and other attachments to break the monotony of repeating tasks.
 
I have had some places where due to lack of space, or the order of assembly, seizing is not possible. In these cases I have resorted to my Boy Scout training and use two half hitches which slip down and then lock tight.
 
I have a couple of pictures attached. Sorry, I can't get them to rotate.
 
Regards,