ca.shipwright

Greetings,
It's hard to believe it has been a little over a month since my last update.Things are going slowly now that we are in the detail work of masting and rigging. Most of the deck work has been done.
 
First, I am making my own rope. I gave up on trying to find a source for linen thread in the various diameters that I need after spending hours on the internet and getting no responses from several European companies. I an using crocheting thread in the sized 5, 8, and 10 for the standing rigging. Making 3-strand rope out of the 5 gives a good fore stay and serves nicely. The 8 gives a good shroud. The 10 is for seizing. I use the 8 for lashing between hearts.
 
I know the difference between serving and worming. In the AOS, it shows the foremost shroud wormed. Which would be correct? It looks like worming at this scale would be extremely difficult if not impossible. I am serving the fore most and aft most on each set of shrouds. The interior shrouds will be left plain. I am having a lot of problems getting the seizing to slide on the served rope. Sliding opens one end of the serving and compresses the other. I don't know what to do here. Maybe painting the served shroud with dilute white glue which I use on all seizings would set the serving allowing the seizing to slide. Any ideas would be appreciated. I am planning to use the clove hitch for the ratlines in the 10 thread size
 
I have stepped the masts and the bowspirt and installed the foremast stays and partially rigged the bowspirt. I assembled the canon and placed them on the main deck. The barrels will have to remain in the elevated position. It appears that my bulworks are too high or my deck is too low. Either way this will have to do as the fix would entail a major rebuild. I'm good with this. I am going to rig the canon with the outhall lines and breach ropes. The train tackle will not be done. I think it will look too crowded. I am using Chuck Pissaro's 2 and 3 mm hooks. They are fantastic. I also used the hooks for the rudder cable on the quarterdeck.
 
Two questions about the mainmast forestay. It looks like it splits and goes p & s around the foremast- a loop, joins back to a single line. Is this correct? And, I can't identify where it terminates at the bow.
 
The bompers are giving me fits. I have made them twice and can't seem to get them to work. I will get them right eventually. I am also concurrently working on the yard foot ropes and other attachments to break the monotony of repeating tasks.
 
I have had some places where due to lack of space, or the order of assembly, seizing is not possible. In these cases I have resorted to my Boy Scout training and use two half hitches which slip down and then lock tight.
 
I have a couple of pictures attached. Sorry, I can't get them to rotate.
 
Regards,

E J,
There is always an option of making additional bulkheads using the adjacent as a pattern. You can still  do this by gluing the additional bulkhead(s) to the center keel and the subdeck which I believe is the white sheet perpendicular to the center  keel in the picture. You really don't need a slot for this and may be a easier solution than filler blocks.
 
Regards

E J,
There is always an option of making additional bulkheads using the adjacent as a pattern. You can still  do this by gluing the additional bulkhead(s) to the center keel and the subdeck which I believe is the white sheet perpendicular to the center  keel in the picture. You really don't need a slot for this and may be a easier solution than filler blocks.
 
Regards

E J,
There is always an option of making additional bulkheads using the adjacent as a pattern. You can still  do this by gluing the additional bulkhead(s) to the center keel and the subdeck which I believe is the white sheet perpendicular to the center  keel in the picture. You really don't need a slot for this and may be a easier solution than filler blocks.
 
Regards

E J,
There is always an option of making additional bulkheads using the adjacent as a pattern. You can still  do this by gluing the additional bulkhead(s) to the center keel and the subdeck which I believe is the white sheet perpendicular to the center  keel in the picture. You really don't need a slot for this and may be a easier solution than filler blocks.
 
Regards

E J,
There is always an option of making additional bulkheads using the adjacent as a pattern. You can still  do this by gluing the additional bulkhead(s) to the center keel and the subdeck which I believe is the white sheet perpendicular to the center  keel in the picture. You really don't need a slot for this and may be a easier solution than filler blocks.
 
Regards

I don't know which viscosity of CA you are using to harden wood. I would recommend using the ultra thin as it will penetrate the wood much better and make it like metal. The thicker glues tend to stay on the surface. I also find myself making the parts that will be visible and need carving out of boxwood which holds an edge very well and has no fuzziness.
 
The clean lines of your painting are to be envied as is your copper plating. I look forward to following your build.
 
I have the Panart 1/72 Victory on the ways but the shipyard is on strike as the HMB Endeavour continues.
 
Regards

I don't know which viscosity of CA you are using to harden wood. I would recommend using the ultra thin as it will penetrate the wood much better and make it like metal. The thicker glues tend to stay on the surface. I also find myself making the parts that will be visible and need carving out of boxwood which holds an edge very well and has no fuzziness.
 
The clean lines of your painting are to be envied as is your copper plating. I look forward to following your build.
 
I have the Panart 1/72 Victory on the ways but the shipyard is on strike as the HMB Endeavour continues.
 
Regards

More Pictures

Back again; and thanks again for all your help.
 
Well, I layed up some rope using the Model Shipways prototype. It worked just as advertised. The yield is about 80% of the original length which is what MS advertised. You are only limited in length by how far apart you put the two ends. I used a long piece of trim material- about 80 inches and got a piece of rope 60 inches. I CA'ed the ends and cut the rope free OUTSIDE of the CA. I know what you're thinking. No, I didn't cut inside. I made about 20 feet altogether in the first run. Very well satisfied with the effort. I really want to set up on the garage floor and try to do a piece about 20 feet long.
 
Then on to the serving machine built after our moderator's design. This worked extremely well with very little talent required.
 
I only have on complaint about this whole operation - my right index finger is about to fall off. I am going to see in I can alter the setup to motorize these two systems. Somewhere I recall someone putting a Phillip's head screw in the twist end action of a rope walk and use an electric drill to power the system and do the same for the other end since this is a one, two step operation. Another solution would be a sewing machine motor with a foot pedal. The motor attached to a shaft with a u-joint or some other shaft connector, like what Dremel uses in their tools. The same motor could also power the serving machine as well. But, I think this will have to be a belt driven pulley system to allow the line being served to pass through.
 
As a former macro woodworker, you can probably guess that like all the rest of the world's woodworkers, I am jig crazy and will build anything I can that I think I will find useful.
 
I wound up using some DMC crocheting cotton thread. The resulting rope is a little oversized, but I can live with this rope for the forstays while I wait for my linen from Poland.
 
Pictures attached.
 

See if you can locate someone doing 3D commercial printing. They can make very small items.

See if you can locate someone doing 3D commercial printing. They can make very small items.

E J,
My first look at your SR. Yes is a huge ship. I have the Panart Victory 738. It too is a monster. The price of the case will exceed the cost of the kit. One thing I discovered in working on a kit this size is that the constant turning it around can become exhausting. A Lazy Susan or turntable is almost a must have for energy savings. They are easy to fabricate or cheap to buy.
 
Regards

E J,
My first look at your SR. Yes is a huge ship. I have the Panart Victory 738. It too is a monster. The price of the case will exceed the cost of the kit. One thing I discovered in working on a kit this size is that the constant turning it around can become exhausting. A Lazy Susan or turntable is almost a must have for energy savings. They are easy to fabricate or cheap to buy.
 
Regards

Nicely done. Great photos. Thanks

Greetings,
 
Finally something to write about. Completed all the mast components, installed the deadeyes on the tops and rigged the blocks on the top bottoms.
 
I made the deadeyes using Dave Rowe's method. It never ceases to amaze me how the first one of anything always takes forever and last one takes no time at all. It shows what repetition can do.  Now for some final clean up, finish painting the black on the masts and start the rope work.
 
I will install all rigging I can on each component before assembling the masts and yards.
 
I made the rigging stations that someone was kind enough to post. Works very well. I never realized how much better the helping hand work when they are screwed down. Also, covering the alligator clip ends with some tacky tubing really helps. The blocks no longer jump out of the clips nor does any work piece get marred.
 
I have a big decision to make- to serve or not to serve that is the question. Since this is not going to be a historically correct model as I have made to many mistakes/changes running back and forth between the Corel plans and the AOS and back again this is a huge lesson learned. I wonder if the effort will be worth it.
 
If I do decide to serve, I will try to make an add-on to the rigging station. This should not require too much engineering. And I am a jig lover.
 
Any way, here are some photos.
 
To those in the US, Happy Thanksgiving. To those Down Under and the Kiwis, hoist a pint and celebrate something.
 
Regards

Greetings Again.
 
I can't believe that it's been 54 weeks since I started Endeavour and first posted in this log. Time really flies when you are having fun.
 
I reached what I consider to be a milestone on the build. All of the masts, spars and tops, mast caps and bow spirt have been fabricated.
I dry fitted all of the components and they seem to fit fairly well. Some, well maybe more than some, touch up will be required. Then its on to mounting the eye bolts and all the rest of the goodies that should be done before stepping the masts. Finally the painting will be completed. I won't admit to how many dowels it took to get this far.
 
I tried to do the hexagonal center for the main yards on a piece of scrap. This did not go well and I have decided to omit this. I can see where starting with square stock for the spars is definately the way to go. Next time.
 
We'll take a break. Clean up the shop. And, maybe work on my solid hull Sultana for a bit.
 
Regards
 
 
Photos to follow

Hornet,
Well you certainly answered my mechanization question completely. That is a beautiful piece of machinery. I'll have to get into my grandkids Lego box and see what I can find. I do have lots of fishing snap hooks. That rope is beautiful. Thanks for sharing.
 
Regards

Back again; and thanks again for all your help.
 
Well, I layed up some rope using the Model Shipways prototype. It worked just as advertised. The yield is about 80% of the original length which is what MS advertised. You are only limited in length by how far apart you put the two ends. I used a long piece of trim material- about 80 inches and got a piece of rope 60 inches. I CA'ed the ends and cut the rope free OUTSIDE of the CA. I know what you're thinking. No, I didn't cut inside. I made about 20 feet altogether in the first run. Very well satisfied with the effort. I really want to set up on the garage floor and try to do a piece about 20 feet long.
 
Then on to the serving machine built after our moderator's design. This worked extremely well with very little talent required.
 
I only have on complaint about this whole operation - my right index finger is about to fall off. I am going to see in I can alter the setup to motorize these two systems. Somewhere I recall someone putting a Phillip's head screw in the twist end action of a rope walk and use an electric drill to power the system and do the same for the other end since this is a one, two step operation. Another solution would be a sewing machine motor with a foot pedal. The motor attached to a shaft with a u-joint or some other shaft connector, like what Dremel uses in their tools. The same motor could also power the serving machine as well. But, I think this will have to be a belt driven pulley system to allow the line being served to pass through.
 
As a former macro woodworker, you can probably guess that like all the rest of the world's woodworkers, I am jig crazy and will build anything I can that I think I will find useful.
 
I wound up using some DMC crocheting cotton thread. The resulting rope is a little oversized, but I can live with this rope for the forstays while I wait for my linen from Poland.
 
Pictures attached.
 

I ran across a historical drama on Netflix entitled Admiral. This is about the Dutch in the 17th Century and theire battles with England and France with a mention of Spain. The sailing ships and battle scenes are superb. The movie is subtitled in English as most of the dialogue is in Dutch which was very easy to follow. Of course, the English speak English and the French speak French. Since Netflix has it, it must be several years old. But, I don't recall any mentions here in the US.
 
IMHO well worth a viewing.
 

Outstanding!!!!
 
Looking for your next project.
 
Regards

I guess I'm a little late to the table.

I ran across a historical drama on Netflix entitled Admiral. This is about the Dutch in the 17th Century and theire battles with England and France with a mention of Spain. The sailing ships and battle scenes are superb. The movie is subtitled in English as most of the dialogue is in Dutch which was very easy to follow. Of course, the English speak English and the French speak French. Since Netflix has it, it must be several years old. But, I don't recall any mentions here in the US.
 
IMHO well worth a viewing.
 

I ran across a historical drama on Netflix entitled Admiral. This is about the Dutch in the 17th Century and theire battles with England and France with a mention of Spain. The sailing ships and battle scenes are superb. The movie is subtitled in English as most of the dialogue is in Dutch which was very easy to follow. Of course, the English speak English and the French speak French. Since Netflix has it, it must be several years old. But, I don't recall any mentions here in the US.
 
IMHO well worth a viewing.
 

More Pictures- having trouble resizing
 
Happy New Year everyone!