ca.shipwright

Two items that I have found useful.
1st is a rollerball paper cutter. It will cut strips down to 1 mm. The scale is too far away from the blade, so I put on a fence using masking tape. Worked like a charm.
The second item is an x-y table that mounted on my Dremel Drill press. Works great for drilling a straight series of holes.
Inexpensive. About $40 from eBay in China.
 
Photos attached

Hervie,
 
From what I remember from my plastic model days, lacquer is solvent based. That always made a mess to clean up. Also it gave a high gloss finish like on automobiles.
 
This type of finish really doesn't look good on wooden ship models.   On wooden ship models, most folks strive for a dead flat finish. At most I will finish with a coat of satin Wipe on Poly which will give the finish some luster but not gloss.
 
Hope this helps
 
Regards

Darrell,
Another way that might work is to strop the deadeye with wire, twisting the tails tight. This wire frame may give the deadeye enough support to prevent breaking while you drill it out.
 
Hope this helps
 
Regards

Nice Mindi

Hervie,
I'm like you. I do the best I can with the hope that the finished model is a pleasing to the eye, well made with crisp lines. If I learn new skills, more the better. It still amazes me that the only thing a visitor sees, and, the first he mentions when he looks at one of my models is the rigging.
 
For painting:
A good set of brushes. Several thin coats rather than one thick coat. Sometimes I thin the paint to the consistency of a color wash. Water based acrylics clean up with soap and water; no need for solvents. Prime the hull when you finish planking. It will help show any defects which can be fixed with filler.
 
For inexpensive paints, I go to Lowe's paint department and get the color I want in a sample with acrylic flat base. Pick any color they have on the chips in the store. Costs about $4.00 and you'll have enough to paint the rest of you models forever. I have tried air brushing and the effort was not worth it.
 
Hope this helps
 
Regards

Hervie,
I'm like you. I do the best I can with the hope that the finished model is a pleasing to the eye, well made with crisp lines. If I learn new skills, more the better. It still amazes me that the only thing a visitor sees, and, the first he mentions when he looks at one of my models is the rigging.
 
For painting:
A good set of brushes. Several thin coats rather than one thick coat. Sometimes I thin the paint to the consistency of a color wash. Water based acrylics clean up with soap and water; no need for solvents. Prime the hull when you finish planking. It will help show any defects which can be fixed with filler.
 
For inexpensive paints, I go to Lowe's paint department and get the color I want in a sample with acrylic flat base. Pick any color they have on the chips in the store. Costs about $4.00 and you'll have enough to paint the rest of you models forever. I have tried air brushing and the effort was not worth it.
 
Hope this helps
 
Regards

Charlie,
Great work.
 
Watching you build your Sultana stimulated me to get mine off the shelf and give me some easier work as I do the masting and rigging of my HMB Endeavour. I have already ruined two of hulls that Marc Mosco was kind enough to replace. I am embarrassed to ask for another replacement. So, I am carving the hull from scratch out of a block of basswood.
 
Could you explain how you transfer the plans to the program on your computer (which one), I get the scanning in part, and how you deliver it to the laser cutter. Or, better said, what you need to take over there. I knowl with about CAD.
 
I'll put up a build log as I go.
 
 
Formerly of Forrest Hills

E.J.,
That's why I build masts or deck furniture when the work gets to repetitive. Ships boats are also a nice diversion.
 
Regards

Jesse,
I used to do furniture building and other macro wood projects. I made 3 foot blanket chest with hand cut dovetails.  A most rewarding project for my wife. I also find the Dremel to "strong" for freehand use. I found more use for it mounted in a drill press or some other contraption.
 
Regards

Jesse,
Beautiful work. Are you using a milling machine or Sheerline for all the close drilling? Or, are you doing this freehand with a pin vise or Dremel?
 
Regards
 
Michael

Charlie,
Great work.
 
Watching you build your Sultana stimulated me to get mine off the shelf and give me some easier work as I do the masting and rigging of my HMB Endeavour. I have already ruined two of hulls that Marc Mosco was kind enough to replace. I am embarrassed to ask for another replacement. So, I am carving the hull from scratch out of a block of basswood.
 
Could you explain how you transfer the plans to the program on your computer (which one), I get the scanning in part, and how you deliver it to the laser cutter. Or, better said, what you need to take over there. I knowl with about CAD.
 
I'll put up a build log as I go.
 
 
Formerly of Forrest Hills

Hervie
I know what you mean about the iPhone camera. I jumped onto eBay and found a Nikon P520 that was near new for about half price. Now I can get some detail in my pictures. Although, I am not sure I want to share that level of details given my skill level.
 
Keep up the great work.
 
Regards

Greetings,
 
Several years ago I bought the Model Shipways Sultana. I butchered the first hull and Model Shipways was nice enough to send me another gratis. I proceeded to butcher that hull as well So, the Sultana went on the shelf to fight with me another day.
 
Then I went into plank on frame construction and am having a ball. I am building HMB Endeavour, 1:60, by Corel. I have a log ongoing here. While perusing the Model Ship Builder site, I discovered Charlie Zardov’s Sultana log. He is doing a beautiful job. I also found Chuck Passaro’s practicum. The juices started to flow , and, I needed a break from the masting and rigging of Eneadvour. But, I just couldn’t get myself to ask MS for another hull. So, I decided to build the hull from scratch out of a block of bass wood. As Jack Nicholson said in the movie As Good as it Gets, “I know I can do this”.
 
Now we begin: Since I had all the templates cut from file folders from the previous attempts, I had a nice head start. I laid out the profile view and the deck plan on the block, as well as marking the center line on all 4 surfaces and the station lines. I cut out the profile first so I would have a flat surface (keel to be) to cut out the deck plan. The band saw did a very nice job.
 
The next step was to locate the top of deck line. There is really only one reference point that is reliable for measuring  the height of the ship's lines. and that's the keel. By using a combination of the profile view and the inboard bulworks  view, I was able to get the top of the deck line at the edge of the deck. Then measuring the camber drop from the plans and adding this to the edge deck line, I was able to get the top of deck line on the centerline.
 
Now, it’s time to start carving. I am going to start with the area between stations 4 and 6. This is the widest beam and the gentlest curve on the hull so there will be less wood to remove.
 
Some photos below.
 
Also a picture of a homemade mini-lathe using an electric hand drill as the motor and head stock. It works pretty well. Courtesy of U-Tube.
 
 
 
 

How long slitting blades will depend a lot on what wood you are milling. Basswood, and other soft woods and the blade will last almost forever. Ebony about 20 minutes. (a note- ebony dust is toxic and you should use a mask or respirator). I mill a lot of boxwood and walnut and I get several months out of the .040 blade, less if I am too lazy to put in the .020 blade. I never have had any luck sharpening the slitting blades. I just order more.
 
You cannot buy a better machine then what Jim makes. Period.
 
Remember, a good tool becomes an heirloom.

Greetings,
 
Several years ago I bought the Model Shipways Sultana. I butchered the first hull and Model Shipways was nice enough to send me another gratis. I proceeded to butcher that hull as well So, the Sultana went on the shelf to fight with me another day.
 
Then I went into plank on frame construction and am having a ball. I am building HMB Endeavour, 1:60, by Corel. I have a log ongoing here. While perusing the Model Ship Builder site, I discovered Charlie Zardov’s Sultana log. He is doing a beautiful job. I also found Chuck Passaro’s practicum. The juices started to flow , and, I needed a break from the masting and rigging of Eneadvour. But, I just couldn’t get myself to ask MS for another hull. So, I decided to build the hull from scratch out of a block of bass wood. As Jack Nicholson said in the movie As Good as it Gets, “I know I can do this”.
 
Now we begin: Since I had all the templates cut from file folders from the previous attempts, I had a nice head start. I laid out the profile view and the deck plan on the block, as well as marking the center line on all 4 surfaces and the station lines. I cut out the profile first so I would have a flat surface (keel to be) to cut out the deck plan. The band saw did a very nice job.
 
The next step was to locate the top of deck line. There is really only one reference point that is reliable for measuring  the height of the ship's lines. and that's the keel. By using a combination of the profile view and the inboard bulworks  view, I was able to get the top of the deck line at the edge of the deck. Then measuring the camber drop from the plans and adding this to the edge deck line, I was able to get the top of deck line on the centerline.
 
Now, it’s time to start carving. I am going to start with the area between stations 4 and 6. This is the widest beam and the gentlest curve on the hull so there will be less wood to remove.
 
Some photos below.
 
Also a picture of a homemade mini-lathe using an electric hand drill as the motor and head stock. It works pretty well. Courtesy of U-Tube.
 
 
 
 

How long slitting blades will depend a lot on what wood you are milling. Basswood, and other soft woods and the blade will last almost forever. Ebony about 20 minutes. (a note- ebony dust is toxic and you should use a mask or respirator). I mill a lot of boxwood and walnut and I get several months out of the .040 blade, less if I am too lazy to put in the .020 blade. I never have had any luck sharpening the slitting blades. I just order more.
 
You cannot buy a better machine then what Jim makes. Period.
 
Remember, a good tool becomes an heirloom.

Two items that I have found useful.
1st is a rollerball paper cutter. It will cut strips down to 1 mm. The scale is too far away from the blade, so I put on a fence using masking tape. Worked like a charm.
The second item is an x-y table that mounted on my Dremel Drill press. Works great for drilling a straight series of holes.
Inexpensive. About $40 from eBay in China.
 
Photos attached

Hervie
I know what you mean about the iPhone camera. I jumped onto eBay and found a Nikon P520 that was near new for about half price. Now I can get some detail in my pictures. Although, I am not sure I want to share that level of details given my skill level.
 
Keep up the great work.
 
Regards

How long slitting blades will depend a lot on what wood you are milling. Basswood, and other soft woods and the blade will last almost forever. Ebony about 20 minutes. (a note- ebony dust is toxic and you should use a mask or respirator). I mill a lot of boxwood and walnut and I get several months out of the .040 blade, less if I am too lazy to put in the .020 blade. I never have had any luck sharpening the slitting blades. I just order more.
 
You cannot buy a better machine then what Jim makes. Period.
 
Remember, a good tool becomes an heirloom.

How long slitting blades will depend a lot on what wood you are milling. Basswood, and other soft woods and the blade will last almost forever. Ebony about 20 minutes. (a note- ebony dust is toxic and you should use a mask or respirator). I mill a lot of boxwood and walnut and I get several months out of the .040 blade, less if I am too lazy to put in the .020 blade. I never have had any luck sharpening the slitting blades. I just order more.
 
You cannot buy a better machine then what Jim makes. Period.
 
Remember, a good tool becomes an heirloom.

How long slitting blades will depend a lot on what wood you are milling. Basswood, and other soft woods and the blade will last almost forever. Ebony about 20 minutes. (a note- ebony dust is toxic and you should use a mask or respirator). I mill a lot of boxwood and walnut and I get several months out of the .040 blade, less if I am too lazy to put in the .020 blade. I never have had any luck sharpening the slitting blades. I just order more.
 
You cannot buy a better machine then what Jim makes. Period.
 
Remember, a good tool becomes an heirloom.

E.J.,
That's why I build masts or deck furniture when the work gets to repetitive. Ships boats are also a nice diversion.
 
Regards

I wish I had taken metal shop in high school instead of plastics. Well done Hervie!

Jesse,
I used to do furniture building and other macro wood projects. I made 3 foot blanket chest with hand cut dovetails.  A most rewarding project for my wife. I also find the Dremel to "strong" for freehand use. I found more use for it mounted in a drill press or some other contraption.
 
Regards

Jesse,
Beautiful work. Are you using a milling machine or Sheerline for all the close drilling? Or, are you doing this freehand with a pin vise or Dremel?
 
Regards
 
Michael