Jump to content

mattsayers148

Members
  • Posts

    685
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mattsayers148

  1. Just strap on your xcountry skiis and do some telemarking! Your boat is coming along great! Are you going to use CA? After hearing issues with the white glue and spreading, I'm glad I used the CA. Now you got me on the edge of my seat in anticipation, like the birth of a little baby squirrel?

     

    To go with CaptainSteve's advice, I think as long as your garboard barely clears the transom, you should be ok. I'm curious to see if you'll need a stealer plank, has anyone not had to yet? I have a sneeking suspicion that the soaking of the planks are the cause of this.

  2. Thank you CaptainSteve, Ken and to everyone for the likes.

     

    The paint is Vallejo's color black. MS has been shipping a free sample with a model purchase. Of all the paints I've used before, this is, in my opinion, the best I've used. One coat has excellent coverage and mat finish that is deeper than previous paints. This was the same color I used on my windlass, does imitate iron very well.

     

    Side note: I exclusively use my iPhone in this forum. I noticed that a lot of people have notations above their avatar. Can this be done with my phone or is it only available from a computer?

     

    Squirrel Whisperer

  3. Oh we got plenty of nuts out here, I speak from experience!

     

    Side note: The movie "One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest" was filmed at the Oregon State Mental Hospital. It should be of no great surprise, I was born in the hospital right next door to the mental hospital.

  4. Thanks CaptainSteve, Keith and for all the likes.

     

    Hey Keith, I actually made it. I think I mentioned in a post way back that my great-grandma tought me how to do fine thread crochet when I was little. I hadn't done much with it until about 5 years ago(you'd think I'd forget, must be some real old squirrels up there). This was a common size(#100) used in the 19th and early 20th century. If I remember correctly, the numbers reflect the amount of thread that could be placed side-by-side in an inch! The netting it called fillet crochet.

     

    I don't know if you noticed CaptainSteve that my list of future builds is growing(I've won some really good auctions on eBay from MS). I've been itchin to start a new build, but am enjoying this one so much, I feel like I'm about to breakup with a girlfriend(is it two-timing to work 2 build at the same time?) Everything from the supplied model is mostly done, just a few more bash items to go.

     

    So I've set out Corel's Ranger as my next build. When I opened the box, I instantly new the outcome. I'm gonna bash the crap out of this one as part of a pirates booty. This will be a first at a POB. I told Jordan the instructions were in Italian so I minds we'll toss it. His reply was "Isn't that what you always do?" It's mostly true, but I do glance through them a few times. So I've asked the lead squirrel to send a few of the troops ahead to make the necessary preparations for the Ranger.

    post-17116-0-47274900-1424346975_thumb.jpg

  5. I agree with CaptainSteve, that the excess would look best belayed near the bottom of the mast. Just be sure to tie/seize lines around the bundle, it might be creepy to come down one morning to see your model set sail. If you ever do decide to make functional sails, do a lot of research first, the Admiral might not take too kindly at redoing the whole thing. Oh, any lines should just be coiled in a circle. My first sail job I had them all neatly wrapped, bundled and hung neatly from the belaying pins. That's when my sailor buddy said they're only like that usually in port.

  6. Nice job on the sails(hats off to Mrs Cathead) and on your oar with added research. Since you want your sails furled, CaptainSteve's point on the crews physical condition makes sence.

     

    One idea, toss it if it doesn't work/look good, is complete the sails and rigging first. Then allow the spar and sail to lower, with careful assistance. The men were most likely ill, so they would furl as best as they could, yet somewhat sloppy. I've seen many of the furled sails be placed in the boat, however space was critical. My thought would be that they would raise the furled sail and draw the lower end of spar and belay to pin at base of the mast. It would be out of the way for the men and still show off your sails.

     

    On the furling, the model placed reef points are accurate(they change around 1800 to point on the lower part of the sails). At that time the reef points were only used to reef the sails. To furl, the tack and clew lines were used to wrap(furl). This way the reef point will just be bunched with the rest of the sails and unseen. The finished look is a spiraled wrap from ends into the middle(no reef points used or showing). This would also help in your schedule because you wouldn't need to spend too much time on the sails and spars since they're largely unseen.

  7. Hey CaptainSteve, I didn't have a template just dimensions: 7inch at ends, 8 1/2inch at bilge, 21inches long. It's about the size of two of the small barrels end-to-end.

     

    I know what you're talking about, I need to have an end game at some point(I've got almost 5 months into this one). There's only a few key items that I need to put into this build. After all I've got like 6 models on the shelf in waiting.

  8. Thank you George. On this model, and on future builds, I made a scaled ruler, well, because I got too lazy to do it in my head. It's helped out a lot on items that I only have a pic for and no dimensions. I try to keep to scale as much as I can and it's helped that so many in this forum have given me pointers on how to do that. Your support and encouragement is greatly appreciated.

  9. Felt like I didn't accomplish a whole lot this weekend. Aside from the brass black, I finished a few draw knifes, started working on a cherry carpenters clothing chest and some cargo netting. Everything's kinda "part" done.

     

    In my search for brass black, I came across this "weather-it" for raw wood. It definitely seemed to work better than the grey minwax, at least darker faster. The photo doesn't do it justice, and I'm sure with sanding, this is likely something I will use in the future.

    post-17116-0-97398600-1424053772_thumb.jpg

    post-17116-0-43752500-1424053786_thumb.jpg

    post-17116-0-58947700-1424053801_thumb.jpg

  10. Well CaptainSteve, I had my hopes up to be able to get the black brass in town. I've always praised Portland for being able to get most anything right now. Gun nuts and gun stores everywhere, and nothin. At least not close. I'm sure I could waste hrs calling and find some, but I setteled on ordering some off eBay. So I'll just keep making tools and blacken them when I receive the bottles.

     

    And don't forget what saved Tom Hanks from that island, yes, a schulzy!

×
×
  • Create New...