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mattsayers148

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Posts posted by mattsayers148

  1. Disclosure: I cannot be held liable for statements that are most likely out in left field.

     

    After I went back over some items I learned about this build, I remembered about the simplicity of this particular boats rigging. As this image shows (randomly grabbed from Google images), the use of a mast ring/partner seems unlikely. The entire spar would only be at half mast(at the red arrow) since this is the highest point it could be raised to.

    post-17116-0-37182100-1425985148.jpg

  2. Hey I sent you a link and I think that to rig correctly a slide ring should be attached to the spar and around the mast. I'll have to look further to see exactly the configuration of the three.

     

    Side note: this means my rigging is jacked and I need to fix this along with my double pulley set up. I might wait until you finish that part and then I'll copy it

  3. The position of ships carpenter has been given to the brother of PFC Nutz, Woodreaux. Woodie, as he prefers to be called, has also picked 5 men that are skilled at handleing and shaping wood. As seen in the photos, they've made some progress, getting the ladder installed to hasten their building.

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  4. Well that was pretty much a group collaboration on this forum, minds smashing together in a way that can only be explained as a Big Bang! I still need to figure something different with the double block set up.

     

    How do you like the Syren rope? I know the MS rope feels like crunchy nylon, but the rope from Corel feels pretty nice.

     

    I've been tempted to buy one of those lathes just to see what it looks and feels like. You're killin me, man, at least give us a teaser. You know, rip it out of the box and take a selfie with that bad boy

  5. Hey CaptainSteve, sheet 5 gets you fairly close, it just doesn't show all lines though. I'd start with both masts first, the aft-mast belayed to side benches and for-mast to thwart #3. What ever side you put your spars on, the tack and clew are on that side as well. I know we both had funky yet different lines for the bash. I did the aforementioned lines first then the spar lines. This limits the amount of pins available. I threw a couple of half hitches, just enough to hold it temporarily in place. That way you can fiddle with them until they look "right". I don't know the correct placement either, so it was kinda on the fly. I don't remember if my pics were clear on this point, but I could take some better ones and send em your way if want. Hope that helps.

  6. I had some cedar shingles and thought they'd look ok for the lower decking. Now there's room to walk around on while working on more interior items.

     

    This scales out to 2ft wide at the two ends, 3ft wide for the middle sections and about 31ft in length.

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  7. Hey CaptainSteve, I found a fairly simple way of making multiple blocks at the same time. Cut a long piece the highth and thickness you want, then drill your hole/s through the entire piece where you want. Then you can pencil in and shape most of the blocks before you cut them apart. Just a thought.

  8. Update : ST1 has returned from a successful mission and has gained control of our ship. Apparently the beavers had abandoned their assignment and now the squirrels are running full speed to rebuild the watercraft from the inside out. No nations came to aid the squirrels, so they've vowed to make this ship the fastest of its class and rule the high seas as its own nation. The rebuild has begun.

    post-17116-0-43581300-1425643157_thumb.jpg

    The inside of the hull now measures at 50ft in length, 7ft at the highest and a comfortable 10ft wide.

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    Every attempt will be made to make the living quarters as comfortable as possible for the crew while maximizing its storage hold.

    post-17116-0-28739100-1425643309_thumb.jpg

  9. Thanks Ken, I'll check that out. I finally found a scaled plan of Cook's cannon, problem is you can't read it(too fuzzy). So I'll check out the books you recommended, Cook's cannon is a 4pdr as well, maybe between the two I'll get it. This pic is straight off CannonSuperstore.com, that makes these replicas.

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  10. Hey Ken, I saw a list of it during a web search, looks like a good one.

     

    Update: the ship formerly known as USRC Ranger is currently undergoing a lobodamy. I spent a good portion of the day preping the squirrels on my brainstormy ideas for a pirate ship and agreed to their singular request, bottomless nuts. Any time, day or nite, I will stock their nests with as many nuts as they request. So while they work up some blueprints, I shall meticulously remove the unnecessary wood with my trusty chisels. To be continued....

  11. Thank you George, Ken and everyone for the likes.

     

    I went back to that site and was able to find several original plans for different cutters, including some interior plans. Now I'm not saying that there's going to be missing sections so you can see the insides, but it's not out of the realm of possibility.

    post-17116-0-16654800-1425231554_thumb.jpg

    I also found these plans for some guns. Any of these that may be used will have to be scaled to fit.

    post-17116-0-97741100-1425231571_thumb.jpg

  12. I found through some of my reading that these small cutters were a favored ship for smugglers. The USRC's were employed to stop smugglers, among other things, because they were fast and maneuverable, having the ability to navigate up rivers and streams too shallow for most ships.

     

    I found some examples at RMG in the UK where the gunwales were heightened and reinforced to accommodate up to 12 3-pounders. So yes the squirrels have been given this info, and now it's up to them to make this smuggler/pirate ship a reality. Godspeed little critters!post-17116-0-96609500-1425220981_thumb.jpg

  13. So you get paid during recovery? Are you getting a bionic shipmodeling arm? Hey one thing I did to cut back the paint on my chest(it was dark blue), a Qtip diped in mineral spirits. If you get most of it off on a rag, you can slowly rub off a bit at a time, then you don't have to worry about scratching through the blackening and see the shiny metal below.

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