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Chazz

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  1. Like
    Chazz got a reaction from MikeB4 in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this   
    Gentlemen:
    I'd like to suggest a different approach entirely, one that was touched on by a couple of  replies,  as regards scale, color and layout.
     
    Don't DRILL holes for the treenails...just prick holes for the nails with a compass point or the like. Push the point in as far as needed to leave the right size (small) impression.  And  don't fill them, just varnish over them.  The same goes for the butt lines.  Do the marking before you finish the deck the first time...when you varnish the holes and lines they will be darkened enough. If you need filling for other reasons, apply it before making the marks.  Later sanding or scraping will not affect the treatment unless it is quite drastic. In such a case just  re-varnish the area.  I like to use Wipe-on Poly for this varnish.
     
    I use a small (1/8 ") chisel with a good edge just pressed into the planking for the butt lines.  You have to have one about the same width or a little smaller than your planks.  And never have plank butts closer than three planks apart.
     
    Remember that details like these are more suggestions of the real thing than explicit representations of them.
     
     
    Chazz
    Remember scale...it goes for (dark) colors as well as measurements.  The size of the nails or caps was mentioned above.  At 1/4" scale, one inch is 1/48th of an inch real size, and the nails were not black.
  2. Like
    Chazz got a reaction from aviaamator in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this   
    Gentlemen:
    I'd like to suggest a different approach entirely, one that was touched on by a couple of  replies,  as regards scale, color and layout.
     
    Don't DRILL holes for the treenails...just prick holes for the nails with a compass point or the like. Push the point in as far as needed to leave the right size (small) impression.  And  don't fill them, just varnish over them.  The same goes for the butt lines.  Do the marking before you finish the deck the first time...when you varnish the holes and lines they will be darkened enough. If you need filling for other reasons, apply it before making the marks.  Later sanding or scraping will not affect the treatment unless it is quite drastic. In such a case just  re-varnish the area.  I like to use Wipe-on Poly for this varnish.
     
    I use a small (1/8 ") chisel with a good edge just pressed into the planking for the butt lines.  You have to have one about the same width or a little smaller than your planks.  And never have plank butts closer than three planks apart.
     
    Remember that details like these are more suggestions of the real thing than explicit representations of them.
     
     
    Chazz
    Remember scale...it goes for (dark) colors as well as measurements.  The size of the nails or caps was mentioned above.  At 1/4" scale, one inch is 1/48th of an inch real size, and the nails were not black.
  3. Like
    Chazz got a reaction from EJ_L in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this   
    Gentlemen:
    I'd like to suggest a different approach entirely, one that was touched on by a couple of  replies,  as regards scale, color and layout.
     
    Don't DRILL holes for the treenails...just prick holes for the nails with a compass point or the like. Push the point in as far as needed to leave the right size (small) impression.  And  don't fill them, just varnish over them.  The same goes for the butt lines.  Do the marking before you finish the deck the first time...when you varnish the holes and lines they will be darkened enough. If you need filling for other reasons, apply it before making the marks.  Later sanding or scraping will not affect the treatment unless it is quite drastic. In such a case just  re-varnish the area.  I like to use Wipe-on Poly for this varnish.
     
    I use a small (1/8 ") chisel with a good edge just pressed into the planking for the butt lines.  You have to have one about the same width or a little smaller than your planks.  And never have plank butts closer than three planks apart.
     
    Remember that details like these are more suggestions of the real thing than explicit representations of them.
     
     
    Chazz
    Remember scale...it goes for (dark) colors as well as measurements.  The size of the nails or caps was mentioned above.  At 1/4" scale, one inch is 1/48th of an inch real size, and the nails were not black.
  4. Like
    Chazz got a reaction from Saburo in Chuck's carving attempts - #11 blades and micro chisels   
    Chuck,
     
    I may have missed it, but what scale/size are your carvings?
     
    Chazz
  5. Like
    Chazz got a reaction from Mike Y in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this   
    Gentlemen:
    I'd like to suggest a different approach entirely, one that was touched on by a couple of  replies,  as regards scale, color and layout.
     
    Don't DRILL holes for the treenails...just prick holes for the nails with a compass point or the like. Push the point in as far as needed to leave the right size (small) impression.  And  don't fill them, just varnish over them.  The same goes for the butt lines.  Do the marking before you finish the deck the first time...when you varnish the holes and lines they will be darkened enough. If you need filling for other reasons, apply it before making the marks.  Later sanding or scraping will not affect the treatment unless it is quite drastic. In such a case just  re-varnish the area.  I like to use Wipe-on Poly for this varnish.
     
    I use a small (1/8 ") chisel with a good edge just pressed into the planking for the butt lines.  You have to have one about the same width or a little smaller than your planks.  And never have plank butts closer than three planks apart.
     
    Remember that details like these are more suggestions of the real thing than explicit representations of them.
     
     
    Chazz
    Remember scale...it goes for (dark) colors as well as measurements.  The size of the nails or caps was mentioned above.  At 1/4" scale, one inch is 1/48th of an inch real size, and the nails were not black.
  6. Like
    Chazz got a reaction from thibaultron in Chuck's carving attempts - #11 blades and micro chisels   
    Chuck,
     
    I may have missed it, but what scale/size are your carvings?
     
    Chazz
  7. Like
    Chazz got a reaction from Jack12477 in Chuck's carving attempts - #11 blades and micro chisels   
    Chuck,
     
    I may have missed it, but what scale/size are your carvings?
     
    Chazz
  8. Like
    Chazz got a reaction from mtaylor in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this   
    Gentlemen:
    I'd like to suggest a different approach entirely, one that was touched on by a couple of  replies,  as regards scale, color and layout.
     
    Don't DRILL holes for the treenails...just prick holes for the nails with a compass point or the like. Push the point in as far as needed to leave the right size (small) impression.  And  don't fill them, just varnish over them.  The same goes for the butt lines.  Do the marking before you finish the deck the first time...when you varnish the holes and lines they will be darkened enough. If you need filling for other reasons, apply it before making the marks.  Later sanding or scraping will not affect the treatment unless it is quite drastic. In such a case just  re-varnish the area.  I like to use Wipe-on Poly for this varnish.
     
    I use a small (1/8 ") chisel with a good edge just pressed into the planking for the butt lines.  You have to have one about the same width or a little smaller than your planks.  And never have plank butts closer than three planks apart.
     
    Remember that details like these are more suggestions of the real thing than explicit representations of them.
     
     
    Chazz
    Remember scale...it goes for (dark) colors as well as measurements.  The size of the nails or caps was mentioned above.  At 1/4" scale, one inch is 1/48th of an inch real size, and the nails were not black.
  9. Like
    Chazz got a reaction from zoly99sask in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this   
    Gentlemen:
    I'd like to suggest a different approach entirely, one that was touched on by a couple of  replies,  as regards scale, color and layout.
     
    Don't DRILL holes for the treenails...just prick holes for the nails with a compass point or the like. Push the point in as far as needed to leave the right size (small) impression.  And  don't fill them, just varnish over them.  The same goes for the butt lines.  Do the marking before you finish the deck the first time...when you varnish the holes and lines they will be darkened enough. If you need filling for other reasons, apply it before making the marks.  Later sanding or scraping will not affect the treatment unless it is quite drastic. In such a case just  re-varnish the area.  I like to use Wipe-on Poly for this varnish.
     
    I use a small (1/8 ") chisel with a good edge just pressed into the planking for the butt lines.  You have to have one about the same width or a little smaller than your planks.  And never have plank butts closer than three planks apart.
     
    Remember that details like these are more suggestions of the real thing than explicit representations of them.
     
     
    Chazz
    Remember scale...it goes for (dark) colors as well as measurements.  The size of the nails or caps was mentioned above.  At 1/4" scale, one inch is 1/48th of an inch real size, and the nails were not black.
  10. Like
    Chazz got a reaction from tlevine in Treenaling....wish I hadn't done this   
    Gentlemen:
    I'd like to suggest a different approach entirely, one that was touched on by a couple of  replies,  as regards scale, color and layout.
     
    Don't DRILL holes for the treenails...just prick holes for the nails with a compass point or the like. Push the point in as far as needed to leave the right size (small) impression.  And  don't fill them, just varnish over them.  The same goes for the butt lines.  Do the marking before you finish the deck the first time...when you varnish the holes and lines they will be darkened enough. If you need filling for other reasons, apply it before making the marks.  Later sanding or scraping will not affect the treatment unless it is quite drastic. In such a case just  re-varnish the area.  I like to use Wipe-on Poly for this varnish.
     
    I use a small (1/8 ") chisel with a good edge just pressed into the planking for the butt lines.  You have to have one about the same width or a little smaller than your planks.  And never have plank butts closer than three planks apart.
     
    Remember that details like these are more suggestions of the real thing than explicit representations of them.
     
     
    Chazz
    Remember scale...it goes for (dark) colors as well as measurements.  The size of the nails or caps was mentioned above.  At 1/4" scale, one inch is 1/48th of an inch real size, and the nails were not black.
  11. Like
    Chazz got a reaction from Old Collingwood in How can i lighten weathered planks on decks   
    Or try plain Clorox or other bleach. It,s cheaper and handier to use.  It's not much more trouble to handle either.
     
    Chazz
  12. Like
    Chazz reacted to ross in cleats   
    Thanks for the info, very interesting, learning more every day,many thanks Ross
  13. Like
    Chazz got a reaction from druxey in Does anyone use Gravers?   
    Gravers are specialized small cutting tools used in metal work, engraving, jewelry, and such. They are usually small, hard, difficult to sharpen without diamond files. That said, they can be quite useful in doing fine or small work. The major difference from gouges and chisels would be size and hardness.
    Unless you're doing metal work or stone work, I would think that actual gravers would be overkill.
     
    I have found that small chisels and scrapers offered by Model Expo and Micromark are very useful in doing any scratch work, but must be sharpened properly...to the correct angle as well as sharpness...if they are to work well. As they come, they may seem sharp, but they really need a good sharpening job to work right.
    A number of woodworking tool and hardware suppliers have tutorials online about sharpening. Highland Woodworking is one.
     
    Chazz
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