Angarfather

a little intermediate sequence....
 
 
making of shroud cleats in scale 1:64
 
due to the need for some shroud cleats for the rigging I had this idea and made a prototype cleat, which worked out quite well.....
requires brass tube diam. 2 x 1 mm and brass wire 0,5 mm, gas tourch some low melting solder and flux
 
Nils
 
 

 
file away appr. 1/3 of the tube outside
 
 

 
drill two smal 0,6 mm holes into the remaining semi-half, insert the bent 0,5 mm brass wire, apply solder and gas tourch solder
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
when it looks like this, cut from the tube and round trimm  the semi half cleat ends.
ready for blackening, if desired....
 
 

 
tie cleat to shroud with two small seizings, ready for rigging, Useable for Shroud diameter appr. 0,75- 1 mm.
if possible attach shroud cleats before the ratlines are on in ths related areas
 
 
 

Cannons on the lower gun deck are done.
I have only make the blocks on the back not at the side.
You don't see them so for me it's no use to make them.
Also the clever cleats are on.
Now I can place the boat beams and place and planked the upper gun deck.
 
Sjors
 
 

Congratulation!
 
What a nice idea, and what a perfect shop sign!
 
Cheers
 
Hartmut

Part 2
 
The Gallion
 

 
I think that the wood of a sail ship from the early 18.century was protected by tar. The guys in the International Maritime Museum, Hamburg told me, that this tar was not black but dark brown. And so I take "Van Dyck Brown" for this job, as I have seen the ships in the paintings of Rembrandt and van Dyck.
 

 
 
To cover the wales I scratched an angle trim. That had been a very fiddely job, for the 2*3mm wallnutbeams are very sensible under progress.
 

 
 

 
The skupperports are from 9mm Ramin. To make these parts was not a difficult job: first drilling the 5mm whole, than cutting into 2,5mm slides, some sanding - ready.

After many years of useing kits as the base for modelling, I started my first scratch model. Therefor I have choosed a smal ship, not a big one like my HMS Agamemnon.
 
On the Mediterranean took place since the end of the 17th century two particularly fast, lean and sharply built sailing vessels whose hull was probably developed from the galley and the caravel: a native of Venice Galeotte and Xebec. The warships of Geneva and Venice, and also well known as the ships of the northern African pirates.
 
At the same time Pinco was the typical merchant ship in the Mediterranean. In principle, a Xebec. However, not so fast, lean and sharply built, but with a good load carrying capacity.
Typical of these ships was the double rigging. In good weather latin sails. In bad weather square rigged.
 
I like this Mediterranean ships, and last but not least at the stern of the Pinco are not so much decorations. I have never before carved such ornaments, but I will do my very best.
 
I began the build August 15. by the plans from Euro Modell Como.
 

 
Before I started the first planking, it was necessary to make the transition in the forecastle completed. After the first planking I do not get off there.
 

 
 
I have made the first planking in a special way. 3mm plywood strips are glued between the bulkheads. The bow and stern sections are filled with balsa. After sanding is the result a strong base for the second planking
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
Second planking is made from wallnut
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
After mounting the hatches on maindeck planking was the next step.
 
 

 
 
 

 
I didn't find any information how the scuppers are to be made, and where there position is. And this is my solution: after reinforcing the bulwark at the positions, drilling in the scuppers.
 
 

 
 

Thanks, John. I use distemper colours. These colors can be thined well. However, there are some small problems with the surface, as it is watercolor.
 
I had to make nearly 50 cleats for this little ship. And that's may way to do this.
 
First I have made a squarebar. Than milling the profile.
 

 
Thats the result, a profilbar.
 

 
 
Thereafter cutting with the circular saw
 

 
I attach the cleats with glue and a nail in a centerhole. Drilling in the centerhole
 

 
Now just grind a bit, and the first cleat is ready
 
 

 
 
Angarfather

Thanks, Nils,
 
Yes, gianna get's sails. Two sets. One latin, and one squaresails. Next week my wife will sew the sails. She is a perfect tailor herself, and I am very clumsy in needlework. 
 
Hartmut

Thanks, John. I use distemper colours. These colors can be thined well. However, there are some small problems with the surface, as it is watercolor.
 
I had to make nearly 50 cleats for this little ship. And that's may way to do this.
 
First I have made a squarebar. Than milling the profile.
 

 
Thats the result, a profilbar.
 

 
 
Thereafter cutting with the circular saw
 

 
I attach the cleats with glue and a nail in a centerhole. Drilling in the centerhole
 

 
Now just grind a bit, and the first cleat is ready
 
 

 
 
Angarfather

The bilge pump



Next step was modelling and assembling the rudder





Regards Angarfather

I have made the grips from 0,7mm black ironwire ( bindingwire from a floristshop).
 
All together 12 pieces for the quaterdeckhatch and 40 for the cargohatch.
 

 
The ready quarterdeck hatch.
 

 

 
The cargo hatch on maindeck
 
Milling the planks
 

 

 

 

 
Ready
 

 

 
 
A Happy New Year 2015 to all.
 
Cheers!  
 
Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks, Nils,
 
Yes, gianna get's sails. Two sets. One latin, and one squaresails. Next week my wife will sew the sails. She is a perfect tailor herself, and I am very clumsy in needlework. 
 
Hartmut

Thanks, John. I use distemper colours. These colors can be thined well. However, there are some small problems with the surface, as it is watercolor.
 
I had to make nearly 50 cleats for this little ship. And that's may way to do this.
 
First I have made a squarebar. Than milling the profile.
 

 
Thats the result, a profilbar.
 

 
 
Thereafter cutting with the circular saw
 

 
I attach the cleats with glue and a nail in a centerhole. Drilling in the centerhole
 

 
Now just grind a bit, and the first cleat is ready
 
 

 
 
Angarfather

The bilge pump



Next step was modelling and assembling the rudder





Regards Angarfather

Ahoy Sjors!
 
I wish you a good and sucsessfull New Year.
 
about rigging the cannons: now you know why I didn't build the Vic.:-)
 
best regards
 
Angarfather

Ahoy Sjors!
 
I wish you a good and sucsessfull New Year.
 
about rigging the cannons: now you know why I didn't build the Vic.:-)
 
best regards
 
Angarfather

The bilge pump



Next step was modelling and assembling the rudder





Regards Angarfather

I have made the grips from 0,7mm black ironwire ( bindingwire from a floristshop).
 
All together 12 pieces for the quaterdeckhatch and 40 for the cargohatch.
 

 
The ready quarterdeck hatch.
 

 

 
The cargo hatch on maindeck
 
Milling the planks
 

 

 

 

 
Ready
 

 

 
 
A Happy New Year 2015 to all.
 
Cheers!  
 
Hartmut
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The bilge pump



Next step was modelling and assembling the rudder





Regards Angarfather

The bilge pump



Next step was modelling and assembling the rudder





Regards Angarfather

Ahoy Sjors!
 
I wish you a good and sucsessfull New Year.
 
about rigging the cannons: now you know why I didn't build the Vic.:-)
 
best regards
 
Angarfather

The bilge pump



Next step was modelling and assembling the rudder





Regards Angarfather

The bilge pump



Next step was modelling and assembling the rudder





Regards Angarfather

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
Regards, Paul

Made up the stern facia.
 
First layer of brass etch glued into place on the window surround:

 
Second layer of brass etch applied with third laid out ready:
 

 
Third layer applied:
 

 
Windows and columns added to facia:
 

 
Window surround added to facia. Now complete.
 

 
Finally a pic of the cabin with the lights on:
 

Treenailing, aft magazine & lower deck beam, oiling... some progress at the inside of hull
 
In this small scale, diameter of treenail would be about 0.5mm, however, it's not easy for me making treenail of that size. Yes, from the other's building logs, I learned how to make treenail with draw plate but I failed. I think I need more experience. So, I drilled 0.5mm empty holes without treenails on the planked board. I hope I can try again in the near future.
 
The fitting on aft magazine was simple, light room and magazine access stair. Lower deck beams over the magazine were added.
 
One more progress was finishing oil trial. I usually used linseed oil and wax for the finishing of furniture but they have a problem of bonding strength with glue on the oiled surface. So I tried varnish type oil and found that the result of joining strength and color was not so bad.
 
Happy new year!
 
Lee