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About vulcanbomber

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    Special Contributor
  • Birthday 06/11/1972

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    Coalville, leicestershire
  • Interests
    I run a party supplies website with my husband, but when time allows I enjoy horse riding, reading, cross stitching, model making, especially wooden ship models, I am also making a Hornby railway layout for our son. I don't know how I find the time, maybe that's why everything takes so long!

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  1. Awesome, magnificent, amazing, stunning, astounding, spectacular, impressive, fantastic, remarkable..... .... or maybe I should just say - WOW!!!!! Can't wait to see her on mounted on the rails.
  2. That is a superb job on the second planking. It will look amazing with the beauty of the planks brought out when varnished. I love the colour differences in the planks and think it adds extra interest. Regarding coppering, I was initially undecided about coppering the hull on my Pegasus, but in the end decided to, just for the experience as the hull on my San Francisco was uncoppered. I didn't like the coppering experience and found it fiddly, though I am pleased with the results, but I won't copper any more hulls, I like to see the planking instead, especially with the scale lengths. Planking the stern counter - it's down to personal preference. I didn't plank mine as I actually liked the piece of walnut that was used. Like Spy suggested, a light varnish, just to seal the hull. The next thing I did was to remove the bulkhead piece (if not done already) and plank the insides. You will find it easier to paint the lowest plank red before installing them, that way you won't get paint on your deck. Some builders (myself included) made bulkhead walls for the bow and stern at this point too. They make a nice little scratch build project - but again, just personal preference. The wales can be fitted now too. Make sure to leave the correct gap for the quarter badges at the stern. Then I made some of the deck fittings for the lower deck, but didn't glue them in until much later in the build. Sometimes making the little things is a nice reprieve from the big stuff! After that I made the gunport linings - again personal preference - and made the gunport lids. Then I painted the upper parts of the bulwarks for the frieze and the wood parts for it and glued at them all on. I think there is a lot there to get to grips with!!! Great progress.
  3. Great to see you back Haiko. Look forward to seeing your progress.
  4. Thanks for the tip Chris. I'm looking forward to starting it, watching Danny's 'Bulgar' come to life is so inspiring. It's amazing to think so detailed a model can be created with paper and card.
  5. I have received my card model of the 1/25 scale T448P diesel loco. It is published by Modelik, a polish model company who seem to produce excellent card models (if this one is anything to go by) of a wide variety of subjects. I blame Dan Vadas for my purchase of this model, after seeing the fantastic build of his 2-6-6-4 'Bulgar' Steam Loco, (yes Danny, this is all your fault!!!) I have made card models before, mostly free card models found on line like the Mark Twain paddle boat created by Disney (I had a log of the build of it on MSW1, but sadly I couldn't resurrect it when MSW1 was lost. I only hope that I can make a half decent model of the T448P loco with the skills I have, and tips and hints learned from Danny's card model build logs. Here are pics of the 'kit'. I also have the laser cut frames and wheel. The details are simply amazing! When built it will be approx 543mm long. It will be a while before I can make a start, but I am looking forward to it. Laser cut frames & wheels.
  6. A little more progress over the Christmas period on the Longboat for Pegasus. Floorboards installed and bow & stern platforms. Frieze (hand painted paper) added to hull. Thwarts, mast step and stern locker wall. Mast, gaff, boom and bowsprit made. Now on the the windlass and other fittings.
  7. It's brilliant Danny. My card model has arrived now and I can't believe the quality of the kit, especially the laser cut parts.
  8. That makes sense for manoeuvring through the rigging from it's resting place. The mast is longer than the length of the boat, so maybe it was put into the longboat while held alongside Pegasus, before lowering onto the water? Still trying to find clues in old seamanship manuals, but there doesn't seem to be much mention of the process of making a ship's boat ready.
  9. Thanks for the help guys, I have also found this passage from 'The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship', 1794 By David Steel, a digital copy of which is freely available on the San Francisco Maritime National Park Association's website. So could the stay tackle falls and windlass also be used to raise the mast on the longboat that is in the process of making ready? Your suggestions and the above text has given me an idea. Would the following set up look plausible while the longboat is being hoisted from the deck of Pegasus? The forward thwarts would need to be removed to clear the bow for the mast to rest as shown below - plausible? The shrouds (shown in blue) attached to the mast and longboat chain plates, (the lanyards loose so they would be tightened when the mast is upright) The stay (shown in green) attached to mast, the lead attached to stem (again the lanyard would be loose as would the stay) and the fall to the windlass. Do you think all the standing and running rigging would be attached before lowering onto the water or just the main standing parts as shown below? My thinking is that if all of it was attached while the mast is lowered, it would be easier than trying to climb up the mast when it is set, to attach all the rest.

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