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vulcanbomber

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About vulcanbomber

  • Rank
    Special Contributor
  • Birthday 06/11/1972

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  • Website URL
    http://www.party2u.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Coalville, leicestershire
  • Interests
    I run a party supplies website with my husband, but when time allows I enjoy horse riding, reading, cross stitching, model making, especially wooden ship models, I am also making a Hornby railway layout for our son. I don't know how I find the time, maybe that's why everything takes so long!

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Hi Piet, It's good to be working on Pegasus again. I didn't realise how much I've missed working on her until I started up again.
  2. Gangway and gangplanks installed on both sides now, along with the ladders. I made the ladders from some walnut strips, as I didn't think the kit provided ones were nice enough for use on deck, but they were okay for the hatch ladders. It has all had a coat of clear varnish. Next I'm going to do the belfry and rails on the fore deck and the quarterdeck rails. I'm going to modify the belfry and rails on the fore deck using Blue Ensign's build log as a guide.
  3. Looking good. That's some very intricate painting and very nicely done.
  4. I think we have all had these hiccups during a build at one time or another. As Mark and Steven have mentioned above, always dry fit until you are happy the parts fit together well. Regarding the keel, you could use the planking to straighten out the warp, but I don't know how successful it would be in the long run, as there would be more stress on one side than the other and I would be worried if the planking came undone over time. I have never had a problem with a keel and have never tried it, but I'm sure if you search 'warp keel' in the search box, you will find some solutions that have been tried and tested.. I personally would undo the frames (if possible) and start again. I'm sure you will find a solution and your longship will turn out fine.
  5. Hi Popeye. Thank you, I'm happy with the look of them. As B.E said, it would be unusual for them to be stored on deck like that, but I wanted to display some sideways, just to give a different perspective.
  6. I have attached the gangway and gangplanks on one side. I made 8 new supports for the gangplanks using the kit ones provided as a template. So glad I had a Dremmel for Christmas! I'm pleased with the results. Other side to do now, then the stairs.
  7. Looking very nice. I think having sails make the ship come alive, though they can obscure the details on deck, that's why I partially furled the main sail on my San Francisco.
  8. Next was the tack and sheet lines from the lower sail on the fore mast and the main sail on the main mast. The tacks from the sail on the fore mast went under the beak and through the small piece I had attached there earlier before going to a belaying point on the rack in the bow. The sheet line was attached to an eyebolt on the side of the hull, passed through a block attached to the sail and belayed in the waist (highlighted in blue). The tack line from the main sail went through the fairlead I made in the hull and to the belaying point next to it. The sheet line was attached to an eyebolt on the side of the hull at the stern, passed through a block attached to the sail and belayed on the quarter deck. (highlighted in blue) I think that is all the extra's I put on the ship, the rest of the rigging was on the plans. (as far as I can remember, it was about 8 years ago!!) The finished ship
  9. Hello mtbediz, I hadn't actually realised I hadn't completed the restoration on my San Fran build log. I will try and complete it so all the information I had is replaced. I left it previously with how I attached the bridles and bowlines to the sails, I don't think these were in the kit plans. It has been a while since I completed the ship, so I will do my best to remember what I did. The bridles and bow lines were attached to the main sail and top sail on both the main and fore mast. This is the bridle on the main mast topsail This sail has the most parts to make the bridle. 1. First make four small loops at the edge of the sail, the upper most one about a third of the way up the sail. 2. Next attach some line to the top loop, take it through the middle of a small bead and attach the other end to the second loop, do the same with the bottom two loops. 3. Then take another length of line and attach one end to the top bead (I tied it through the hole), then take the other end, thread it through another bead and then attach to the bottom bead. Attach the bowline to the last bead (shown in red) 1. 2.3. Repeat on the other side of the sail. The other three sails are done in a similar way, the only difference is the number of loops and beads used for each bridle. 4.The main sail on the main mast and the top sail on the fore mast has 3 loops on the sail edge and 2 beads. 5.But the bottom sail on the fore mast only has two loops on the sail edge and one bead: 4.5. Now the bridles are attached to the sails, we can deal with the bowlines (shown in red in the diagrams above). The bowline from the topsail on the main mast went to a double block attached to the stay, then down to a belaying pin on the fore deck, as can be seen below. The bowline from the main sail went to a single block attached to the edge of the shrouds on the fore mast, then down to a belaying pin: The bowline from the fore top sail went to a double block attached to the stay then down to a belaying point in the beak: The bowline from the lower sail on the fore mast went to another double block attached to the stay (a bit below the one for the top sail) taken under it's sail and belayed at a point by the fore mast rack (I didn't have room to belay it in the beak). That is how I did the bridles and bow lines.
  10. Yes, I would leave the violin blocks as well. You are doing a good job adding the sails and rigging. I had a lot of fun researching and adding the rigging that was not included in the plans for my San Francisco. In fact I found rigging my San Fran an enjoyable experience - even the ratlines!
  11. You have a nice looking ship there. Love the Hull colour, the Mahogany was a good choice.
  12. Thanks Sam. I know the cannon wouldn't have been lashed alongside ordinarily, but I wanted to show it anyway. Maybe the Captain was planning something! Hi John, I think I can get away with it! Here are the port side cannons installed. It has taken me all week, fiddly little whatsits! Next the starboard side.
  13. Fantastic model. The weathering details are superb, you'd think it was the actual ship!
  14. Those ratlines are very tidy. Good job on the boat too. I think a lot of us have made the ship's boat instead of using the horrible metal one provided in the kit!

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