Cathead

Hi Clarence,
 
About 20 years ago, I had a set of plans  for a ship named something like Stadt Zurich.
The plans werefrom or ordered from a french monthly review  named about plan de bateaux modèles reduits.

I  have always wished to build a Swiss lake paddlesteamer.

I have been away from the build logs for a while.  Had to have some work done to the old ticker but I am back to the workshop. Decided to try a model of a ship that lacks sails.  Spent a little time looking at kits and build logs on this site and decided that King of the Mississippi looked interesting and a fun build.  So I invested a few bucks and purchased the kit.
 
The first step, of course, is the hull.  I was impressed with the fit of the die-cut pieces.  This was one of the easiest hulls to build.  First step was gluing the keel and formers to a flat bottom.  Next came some thin plywood sides (which took a little care in bending) followed by planking with thin walnut strips.

I bought this version and someday hope to build it.  A great read and excellent plans, of which there are several. drawn at a scale of 1/48.  
 
Hardcover: 208 pages Publisher: Vanwell Publishing Ltd. (April 12, 2004) Language: English ISBN-10: 1551250667 ISBN-13: 978-1551250663 Product Dimensions: 10.8 x 10.7 x 2.1 inches It will make a great long term project. David B

This is a interesting read on the first sidewheel steamer on the west coast. arrived in 1836 and operated on the west coast for more than 50 years. ISBN 0-920663-20-6

Thanks for the likes and the comments.  
 
Full disclosure time.   The results this time around were not good, but have provided a learning experience.   I found, I can produce the tubs, the rails, the roof and assemble them.  A couple of errors reared their ugly heads and so it's back to the drawing board.   I think I just need to remake the "tubs' and get the error angle and size right.
 
First pic... doesn't look too bad.  I picked a black stain for two reasons.   On a test, I wasn't getting the railing sticking to either flat acrylic or flat enamel paint.  The second is that the contrast is better.  I used the mill to hollow out the inside of the tub, something I'd not done before so definitely learned something.  
 

 
Here's where the failure hit... the tub is too big and thus the railing goes too far astern and secondly, note the rollup at each of the railing at the roof join.  I didn't get the angle on the tub right,  The railing needs to lean in more toward the hull.
 

 
Rework, re-do time has started...   I hope someone else can learn from my screw-ups.  

Thanks Everybody,
 
Cathead, none of the structure above the main deck survived except the post holes and a piece of the very short rail that ran around the deck. Judging from the framing of the main deck, I'm assuming that the boiler deck clamp was bolted to the posts and the deck beams were bolted through the clamp. Good question about how it was fastened to the longitudinal timbers. If I was going to leave the deck unplanked, I would probably notch them into the deck beams with a shelf half the depth of the timber but, I would just be guessing. Yellowstones contract called for 1 1/2" thick tongue and groove pine for the boiler deck, I think this would have distributed the load on the deck better than the non-grooved planking placing less reliance on the individual supporting timbers. As for fastening the deck planking, Since Heroine's main deck was fastened with nails, I'm sure the boiler deck and side planking were as well. I forgot to mention that the side planking was only on a inch thick. I though about attempting the tongue and groove on the port side where sections would be cutaway just to show exposed edges but changed my mind after milling a piece and realizing how thin the tongue would be.
 
Frank, for the mounding cutter, l just drilled a 1/8 inch hole in a piece of mild steel and ground to the center line. I milled some strips of boxwood 1/8 x 1/16 inch and dragged the cutter along the strip. The profile was so simple and small that it only took 4 or 5 passes to get a clean shape. As for the hole, I just slowly worked the hole with a square needle file until a test piece of the post fit tightly. I love my Grobet needle files, they really do a great job.
 
Greg, the planking is Castillo Boxwood as well although, it does look a little more grainy in the photo.
 
 
Thanks again to everyone for your comments and likes!

Beautiful Cathead,
 
I agree with Brian, the sails look perfect!

And here she is with the jib. I couldn't find a clear reference for how to shape each sail, so I defaulted to the size & shape they've have if they hung limp within the rigging (as shown on my drawings). I don't know if the jib is actually supposed to be larger than the stay sail, but correct or not, I'm pleased with the outcome from a visual display perspective.
 

 

 
The jib is hooked to the bowsprit traveller, allowing it to be hauled out, with a halyard run through a block on the mast just like the stay sail. Seems like it would work in real life.
 
Now it's on to the standing rigging.

Glenn, any idea what kind of connectors were used in the real framing? Were the longitudinal beams bolted to the posts, nailed, or other? Any support brackets, or just connectors through the wood? What about the deck beams to the longitudinal beams? This was something I wondered about in my build and couldn't find an answer for.
 
You didn't want to mill scale tongue-and-groove siding? You're slipping! Just kidding, everything looks delightful as usual.

Glenn, any idea what kind of connectors were used in the real framing? Were the longitudinal beams bolted to the posts, nailed, or other? Any support brackets, or just connectors through the wood? What about the deck beams to the longitudinal beams? This was something I wondered about in my build and couldn't find an answer for.
 
You didn't want to mill scale tongue-and-groove siding? You're slipping! Just kidding, everything looks delightful as usual.

Glenn, any idea what kind of connectors were used in the real framing? Were the longitudinal beams bolted to the posts, nailed, or other? Any support brackets, or just connectors through the wood? What about the deck beams to the longitudinal beams? This was something I wondered about in my build and couldn't find an answer for.
 
You didn't want to mill scale tongue-and-groove siding? You're slipping! Just kidding, everything looks delightful as usual.

Glenn, any idea what kind of connectors were used in the real framing? Were the longitudinal beams bolted to the posts, nailed, or other? Any support brackets, or just connectors through the wood? What about the deck beams to the longitudinal beams? This was something I wondered about in my build and couldn't find an answer for.
 
You didn't want to mill scale tongue-and-groove siding? You're slipping! Just kidding, everything looks delightful as usual.

Glenn, any idea what kind of connectors were used in the real framing? Were the longitudinal beams bolted to the posts, nailed, or other? Any support brackets, or just connectors through the wood? What about the deck beams to the longitudinal beams? This was something I wondered about in my build and couldn't find an answer for.
 
You didn't want to mill scale tongue-and-groove siding? You're slipping! Just kidding, everything looks delightful as usual.

Glenn, any idea what kind of connectors were used in the real framing? Were the longitudinal beams bolted to the posts, nailed, or other? Any support brackets, or just connectors through the wood? What about the deck beams to the longitudinal beams? This was something I wondered about in my build and couldn't find an answer for.
 
You didn't want to mill scale tongue-and-groove siding? You're slipping! Just kidding, everything looks delightful as usual.

This week I completed the posts for the boiler deck and started planing the planking for the sides.  Luckily, unlike the deck, the side planking is of a uniform width and it should go on quickly.
 
All the posts finally in supporting the boiler deck

 

 
 
We know for the main deck, there was a nosing that covered the ends of the deck beams that consisted of a one inch thick plank the depth of the beam ends with a three inch diameter half round moulding on the face.  I continued with that profile on the boiler deck

 
The post were more numerous adjacent to the paddlebox.

 
One of the surviving pieces of side planking.  This 5 inch wide piece of tongue and groove planking was recovered from the lowere edge of the port paddlebox.  It still has the remain of black paint on it.

 

 
Starting to plank the sides.

 
Detail of the doorway into the paddlebox. The posts and nailers for the aft end of the box haven't been added yet.  We know the builder intentionally left two planks longer at the foot of the door the rest of the area inside the box was left unplanked to allow water to spill off the buckets.

After making the decision, I leapt into the fray once more.     I've drawn and cut the rails out of Euro Boxwood (they still need some more cleaning up after seeing the macro photo...  In real life at wide open Ferrari speed, they look pretty good.
 
The plan is to finish shaping the roof where the rail goes, hollow it out to the "bathtub" look on the rail side and bottom.  I'm unsure if I can get a bit in there to leave the back against the hull...  I'll then probably dye it black.  The rails will be soaked, heated (or steamed if the Admiral gives permission) and bent to the "tub".    I hope to have this done in a couple of days as I'm really anxious to start working on the stern carvings.
 
Sorry about the photo.. 
 

Ok.. I'm picking up the gauntlet.   One freestanding railing on each gallery roof.    I think I've got it figured out.....  I'm studying Belle-Poule and it appears the line for the sheer rail are visible behind the rail...  
 
Anyone know what the float that was kept there looked like?  

I'm thinking you're both right, Druxey and Gaetan. Because of the drawing on Licorne, When I first read some time ago what Druxey reminded me of was that it only applied to 74's.  Belle-Poule is the same way and Mr. Delacroix did tell me to reference Belle-Poule for many things.  
 
There is the inside height of the gallery which means the officer would be bent over the entire time they're in there... except for sitting. But that sort of fits in with the cramped quarters of the frigates. 
 
Merde, back to the drawing board to figure out how to do it.  I've got a couple of options I think... either a rail only or the inside of the rail lined.  Either way, the roof will need to stop just above the upper molding.  

No problem, Pat.   I've gathered my thoughts together and took another look at my references.
 
Somewhere around 1765, all the frigates ended up with this look for the quarter galleries.  Prior to that, their galleries looked something like this:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4023-lamarante-by-giampieroricci-1749-french-corvette-scale-130/?p=408269(see the second photo down).  While that is more of a quarterbadge being flat against the hull, the galleries were of similar design but rounded outward for the facilities.
 
Both the English and French did seem to engage in forms of subterfuge to fool an enemy ship.  For example, HMS Roebuck, a 44 two gundeck frigate has a second set of dummy stern windows and (if I recall correctly, a double set of windows in the quarter galleries)such that from a distance she would look like a 74.  When the quarter galleries for the frigates changed, they all look similar.  There's some differences other than size between a 8-pdr frigate and a 12-pdr frigate...  but the appearance from a distance is the same.   The stern windows on Licorne start at the quarter deck beams and come down. They sit high which makes the ship appear larger than she is.
 
In Licorne's case, you'll see when I do the interior, the door to the galleries is only about 4-1/2 feet high.  The roof of the gallery would have to be hollow to give the officer some room to stand up. The gallery itself is barely wide enough for an officer to sit.  There was also a ruling that galleries should not be visible from astern but Licorne violates this rule.  Belle Poule. Hermione, and Le Venus had the headroom but also had the decorative rail.  I haven't studied all the ship's plans in depth on this but they appear to be like Druxey mentioned and what John showed.  Maybe not a cistern but the area inside the rail appears to be open and some items kept there.
 
The reasoning just seems to boil down to appearance. But I've run into a couple of things like this that make me say "Huh?" and so I follow the drawings, do a bit of research to see if this matches and sadly, I don't always rationalize it by connecting the dots like I just did.
 
One other tidbit I found interesting is that due to the hull shape differences between French and English frigates, the French ships were crowded.  The space between decks wasn't as great as the English ships as they moved the lower deck up for carrying capacity in the hold.  What this caused was that the sailors basically slept where ever they could find space as hammocks wouldn't have worked.  They would sleep on the lower deck forward of officer's country, on the hawse cable, in the hold on the barrels even between the guns on the gundeck.  Literally where ever they could find the space.  
 
Footnote... basic differences between an 8-pdr frigate and 12-pdr... the quarterdeck extends in front of the main mast, the 8-pdr, it stops behind it.  On the 12-pdr, the fireplace for cooking is on the centerline just aft of the main bitts.  On the 8-pdr, it's divided into two fireplaces and they are outboard on the deck between the first and second gunport.  Only 12-pdrs seem to have the bridle ports which are the only ports to have permanent lids.Hatchways/gratings are in different locations and numbers but that's due to what needed to be accessed below the deck.
 
Hmm... I've rambled on enough for now.  I admit, it's been a steep learning curve.

Thanks for the likes and comments.
 
 
 
Pure decoration, Pat.  Although on at least one French ship, this area inside translated as "the garden" and actually has usage for what appeared to be some sort of man-overboard equipment.  I'll have to find that reference again.
 
 
 
I noted that also as the NMM plans don't show that line either.  But on the NMM it's not very clear as are most of the "carvings" are just scribbles that need interpreting. 
 
 
 
I wasn't aware of the cistern, Druxey.  I'll file that away for future reference.
 
 
 
I'm changing the "design" as I go on this.  There were some aspects of it I wasn't happy with after seeing it in wood.   Nothing major, just some tweaking to get the model in sync with the perspectives of the drawing.

Thanks for the likes, comments and good wishes.  I've passed those along my lady.
 
I'm now working on the roofs.   They have the traditional "top hat" look with a decorative railing around them.    So.. I did some drawings in Corel and sorting out the look I want.  Then I grabbed some pear (not Swiss) stock and cut it to size and put in the Death Star.  I was surprised as I forgot to change the settings but that beast almost cut them out completely.  A few more watts or a bit slower on the cutting speed... It might have done it.
 
I'm now starting to shape these pieces as shown in the photo.  Once I'm happy with the shape, I'll do the decorative railing around the top in Euro Boxwood.  This railing will be really a first leap into the carving arena as the rail has a lute type of shape for the uprights.  I'm figuring I'll have to make each bit separately due to the curves and the shape of each.  If you look back a few posts of mine to the plan, you'll see what I mean.. but while being a challenge to move my skills up a notch or two, they should be fun.  I'm already having fun shaping them once I figured out how to the drops, this should be easier.
 
 

I think #3 looks too busy. Whether or not it's accurate, it looks busy and distracts a bit from the model. I think it's important for models to appear right, and I think #2 captures the impression of treenailing without running on stage and grabbing the mic.

I think #3 looks too busy. Whether or not it's accurate, it looks busy and distracts a bit from the model. I think it's important for models to appear right, and I think #2 captures the impression of treenailing without running on stage and grabbing the mic.

Elijah, I use the raw plant, cut and dried. Since it can grow like weeds, I look on Craigslist and search for 'free bamboo'. I use bamboo for different projects so I have a decent stash built up. I just cut and split into manageable pieces then run through a draw plate. Once they're sanded down, I wax them.
 
CH, thanks for your insight. The planks scale to 9 inches and I believe under 8 would be number two, 8-11inces would be number three. As you said the 'correct' way is a bit busy.