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g'day mate. do you mean you have to GLUE other items to the hull that you have oiled? 2 pac or other oil based adhesives will bond to oiled surfaces but to be sure i concur with brian about sanding both surfaces to be bonded together. another more foolproof, albeit tedious, time consuming, slightly expensive method would be: sand the second (oiled) planking to within a nano millimetre of its life and relay a 3rd layer over it. given the original second layer is only .5 of a mill thick i reckon if you spend an hour or two with a bit of 120 then 180 then 240 grit paper you can probably get the hull back to an even better stage to apply your new final planking sans oil. might sound daunting but i bet this will give you your best outcome. don't know what part of the world you are from but i reckon 20 odd dollars would cover the cost of the new strips cheers chris

g'day michael, need to know what type of oil you used, where you put it, and what you want to put over it? i'm a professional painter by trade so i may well be able to assist you. there are a few options available to fix your problem. cheers chris

personal choice plays a big part i reckon, but for me on my golden hind painting below the waterline was a godsend. i reckon the kit was missing (among many other things) at least 16 second layer planking strips. luckily i had many of the same dimension left over from amati santa maria and although a different colour because i painted below the waterline nobody (ok, except you guys) knows any different. staining or more to the point clear coating looks fabulous on a well planked hull though. sort of like looking at the admiral in a swimsuit as opposed to a trench coat ... cheers chris

g'day mate, if your build is a P.O.B. model i personally always use balsa fillers between the first 2 -3 bulkheads on the bow and also shape the stern section this way as well. using balsa i can achieve a desired contour on both area's using 120 grit sandpaper. don't worry too much if its not perfect as the first layer planking (assuming of course its double planked) will give you a better idea of "the look" before you do final planking. this is the stage of the build why God created filler. cheers chris

jeez brian; just when i think a decision has been reached you hit me with this stunning pic! well i will finish planking then post pics and see what the consensus is. great build by you by the way. cheers chris

wow! didn't expect my innocent question to attract a 2 page response. and i'm still tossing up whether to treenail bounty's deck or not. i'm using a 4 butt shift so i guess it may enhance the pattern somewhat. cheers chris

no experience of it as i do all mine by hand. very tedious so have bookmarked the site as it is indeed very well priced, although the postage to australia probably kills it for me. cheers chris

ok sorry. was just blown away by the size of the box. and yes i now know your bismark is a wooden kit (envious). you are doing a superb job on her. congratulations. funny how a ship our nation so reviled when she was afloat has now become one of the most admired ships in modern history! cheers chris

g'day brian, are you the member building the trumpeter bismark? i noticed that float a boat had this kit in stock when i visited. price i think was 330 odd. question for you: how much for the upgrade kit to this plastic model? as an ex pusser would love to tackle her but only if i can get wooden decks, authentic blast bags etc etc. cheers chris

that is the question? given they don't really stand out too much on the real article i'm wondering why i should bother? i know it seems most "hot" builds here go with the pronounced deck treenail configuration but in reality they are almost invisible. so: to treenail or not to treenail? that is the question.

hi all, is there a site/post that gives scale for deck and hull planking? i.e.. how many cms for a 1:50, 1:48, 1:60 model etc. this is for length. cheers chris

personally i have bought many items from nature coast hobbies in florida. never had a problem. can't recommend them highly enough and their prices are way cheaper than here in australia; even with postage etc.

ok so i'm just starting amati bounty 1:60 and not only is it my first bluff bowed ship but it also has a false keel. given the two build logs by navis and roman were lost in the great collapse and i can't seem to contact either of them i put out this sos to any other builder of this model who happens to have pics from the early stages of the build, thanks chris

hi mark, i have sent roman numerous pm's about the subject but have yet to receive a reply. chris

hi brian thanks for the quick reply. have emailed gary at modeller's shipyard about the wooden fittings. i can't seem to find them on their site but i will wait till gary replies. roman is from russia i think so i reckon he got these wooden improvements from somewhere in europe. to tell you the truth though the decking wood i've pretty much made my mind up to replace it with a lighter timber but am more concerned about the first planking strip

hi there all i've just opened the box on my new build which is the amati bounty scale 1:60. mamoli golden hind gets to take a break whilst i await belaying pins (surprise, surprise there weren't enough in the kit - will never ever buy another mamoli kit). anyway back to bounty. firstly a lot of parts are cast metal that should actually be wood. now after having reviewed roman roganov's build log on here i see it is possible to buy these parts in wood (see pic. all credit to roman i borrowed it from his log - hope you don't mind). so does anybody know where to purchase this? also first layer planking is 1.5 x 6 walnut strip. this seems like a too rigid wood to me for first layer planking. just wondering if anyone else has come across this for first layer planking. also second layer is 0.5 x 4 walnut. this is what i would expect and am happy with that. however the plans also call to use this strip to plank the decks. my concern is that it is very dark and most of the logs i've seen of this build the deck is considerably lighter than the second planking. should i bite the bullet and buy lighter timber for the decking? thoughts? and lastly for now at least the model has a very convoluted bow section set up. why can't i just use balsa filler blocks like i have on all my other builds. if anyone out there has built this particular model can answer me on that i would be greatly appreciative. have tried to pm navis factorem who produced a superb model of this kit but it seems he is off the air. thanks for your time. chris

g'day david your bounty turned out superbly and is a real credit to you. i see you're from australia, so am i. may i ask where you got your perspex case form and how much was it. i have two builds to house but the cases i've seen all cost more than the model. also did you assemble it or did it come assembled. tks chris

Hi Brian have ordered the Amati bounty as i found their santa maria very good in regards to quality, unlike mamoli golden hind. assuming the family take the hint, and i reckon they have, should be delivered on my 50th in early sept.

great build mate did you make the cabinet in front of the wheel yourself or is it in the kit? also how did you do your treenails?

Hi am just, well in a few weeks, to start on the Amati Bounty 1:60. Does anyone know if she was copper plated under the waterline? I know this particular kit doesn't come with copper plates but i've seen it done and it looks pretty fantastic. But i would only want to do it if the real thing had it. i see the life-size replica which sank during Sandy was copper plated but there seem to be a lot of bounty models that don't have plating and a few that do. Also if anyone has built this kit any feedback on it would be appreciated as i can't seem to find many build logs for her. this will be my third build after Amati Santa Maria and Mamoli Golden Hind and i intend to do a log of this build for the group. tks Chris

thinking about next project after mamoli golden hind and i reckon bounty would be an interesting build. any thoughts or recommendations on a particular kit? tks chris

naturecoast.com i'm in australia but get all my stuff from them. they are in florida (i think) and heaps cheaper than anywhere i can buy from in aus. have never had any problems with them and they have a huge range of kits and accessories. thoroughly recommended.

how far into Bismark are you and what company actually produced the model?

tks Brian but would never consider doing a weekly, rip off the consumer, might stop supplying half way through subscription type of arrangement. must be some out there

hi, does anybody know of any sites or suppliers of quality static wooden models for ships ww11 and beyond? being ex RAN would love to build an old DE but also love Bismark, Hood, Mighty Mo, Arizona etc. A lot of the period companies offer up Titanic but i don't see many warships. have been to many model expo's around the country (Australia) and have seen many great and highly impressive plastic models but for me going back to plastic after 4 wooden kits and developing the skills to build them doesn't wash with me. BTW i served on HMAS Torrens before they blew her out of the water. politicians have no understanding that a mans ship is his castle!