vossy
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Everything posted by vossy
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sucks eggs our dollar is so low but i want be getting anything till i get the mckay book anyway. that may or may not be for xmas. i know it is ordered. will give me plenty of time to search out suppliers, quantity, and size etc. i am still a bit confused as to whether or not to go with single plates of copper strip? anyway i still have to complete first planking so a final decision is a ways off. -
hey hornet. i'm 100% with you on modeller's shipyard prices on anything! i have been to the float a boat store and dealt with them before. they are terrific people. they where the ones who told me that mckays bounty book was not available in oz. i have ordered a copy from the uk. looks like i may have to do the same with the plates.
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thanks brian. now just have to find somewhere in oz to buy them? still have a few more questions though? is copper tape better than plates? how much of either will i need? what size for a 1:60 model should the plates be? i really am a copper novice i am afraid! chris
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ummm, its a simple question i would have thought?
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hi all, if i was to copper plate a hull do i plate over the second plank layer or the first plank layer? cheers chris
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More Masking Tape Questions
vossy replied to mikiek's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
hey mike. our big hardware stores stock it here. but a dedicated paint store will definitely have it. essentially what you need to ask for is long life tape (means it can stay on for a specified period of time before it will pull the underlying paint off. about max now is 14 days. so you want that, but you also want what they call edge lock technology. this is a very thin (less than a millimetre) edge of ultra sticky and stiff coating. paint will not bleed under it. brands in australia are scotch, bear, haymes etc. i would be amazed if a similar product could not be bought in america. if you have a paint store nearby i would go there. but as per my previous post it is VERY advisable to first seal the wood, and then brush away from the tape. i said it was expensive. over here i can upwards of $20 for a 1/4 inch 25meter roll. chris -
More Masking Tape Questions
vossy replied to mikiek's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
you can buy really good professional painter's masking tape with super advanced edge lock technology now days. make sure the wood is sealed so the paint will not absorb into it too much. also, brush away from the tape, not towards it. this tape is expensive but it works 100%. cheers chris -
hey hornet, do you have a link for that?
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hey hamilton, thanks for the swift reply. the amati bounty 1:60 does not call for a coppered hull. but i am lead to believe the vessel had such a hull at the time of the mutiny. this is when i want my model to depict . also i put my usual xmas order in for my family present today. Mckays anatomy of the ship. unfortunately after numerous calls to many shops throughout australia i was told the book is out of print here! one has been ordered from uk but who knows when that will arrive? i am pretty certain i will give her a copper bottom. i just need to know what i am going before i start. cheers chris
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hi all, is there a tutorial type page here or anywhere else that offers a first timer advice on coppering a hull? i am specifically looking at doing this on my Amati Bounty. the scale is 1:60. what size plates would i need and roughly how many would i need? any advice, instruction etc. would be greatly appreciated. cheers chris
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Life boats
vossy replied to bluenose2's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
everything covered on Torrens. who has time to put plugs back in? chris -
Life boats
vossy replied to bluenose2's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
at sea i would strongly suspect they would be covered. chris -
More Masking Tape Questions
vossy replied to mikiek's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
for a start i would not spray your paint onto a wooden model. it will just sit on the surface of the wood and not penetrate. when new houses are sprayed inside they are always back rolled so the paint penetrates into the new plaster. also when using tape, get some that has a 14 day life. when you have a length you want to put on an area, first of all run the sticky side of the tape over the leg of your jeans etc. it will further reduce the tackiness of the tape and eliminate the risk of pulling off required paint underneath it. cheers chris -
only power/electric tools i ever use are Dremel and electric soldering iron for plank bending.
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i have built, or am in various stages of building, models from Billings, Corel, Amati, Mamoli and a rather large Trumpeter kit. Leaving the plastic aside, i would say all have instructions that could be improved from an English speaking person's perspective. it would be interesting to know what our Italian friends here think of the written instructions? Personally i would rather better quality in the materials in the kit itself than better instructions. As Brian said, after a few builds the instructions are really only there for a bit of light comic relief reading when you discover you are missing all stern decorations and half the second planking strips! i actually had this problem with my Mamoli Golden Hind. Clear, concise instructions written by my University English Professor would not have helped overcome my problems! I would 100% recommend Frank Mastini's book as mentioned earlier in this thread. It is a resource i use just as much as i use this forum. i can't begin to tell you how invaluable it is to me and i think would be to almost all modellers of any ability. btw, i'm not related, i just think it is as valuable as any tool i have for this hobby! cheers Chris
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hello jerry and Charlene, I am really loving your log. this cutting tool. can you buy one of these? it appears to be really helpful. cheers chris
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Hi Charlene, yes i am building the Amati kit. Same as yours. Somewhere on this site is the beginnings of a build log. i didn't get very far and have since stopped to concentrate on my house. I do need somewhere to live! hahaha. Are you familiar with Roman's work on this kit? He is a Russian mathematician who just happens to build the most beautiful models imaginable. As i say he has done this kit but has greatly enhanced it with truly stunning scratch building. I have a link to one of his logs here http://serikoffshipmodels.com/forum/4-165-1but he has an even better, far more extensive build log on another russian site. i will post that when i grab it off my other computer. He actually CAD draws and laser cuts the side stern windows to make them out of wood instead of metal. Also he is a very friendly and helpful guy. i have emailed him many times and he is always willing to pass on tips and knowledge. Anyway as i said i really like your progress and look forward to seeing more! Chris
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Hi Charlene, I am following your build log with great interest. You are doing a fabulous job. I really like the copper plating. I am also building this kit and have just started first planking. Unfortunately i gave to put it on hold for an even more important build - my new house! Anyway i just wanted to say that i like your work, and now think that once i get back to her i will too give her a copper bottom! Chris
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hello. i always use filler blocks. and i always use Balsa wood. much easier to shape and sand. chris
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hi, first thing i would do is change the thread heading to 1492. cheers chris
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Hi all. So i have now bought and finished to varying degrees 6 kits all from different manufactures. they range in price from 1k AUD down to about 300 AUD, my problem is this; how come most kits have the same fittings as other kits? i mean they have the same capstans, crap metal lifeboats, lanterns, cannons etc. etc. the list goes on. are there kits out there that actually reproduce a particular vessel as it was in the day? i am getting pretty sick of building the same vessel and just putting a different name under her when finished. anyway just a rant =) cheers chris.
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hey Dan is there pics or links to that museum? would love to see those. chris
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I too got sent an email regarding this model. Looks nice in the pictures, is really big, not too bad a price from that site, the addition of a free dvd also helps the deal, and the ship is a very significant part of our country's history. Having said all that i do really respect Brian's opinion (and others as well) on the subject and just wonder if i am willing to risk $800 (by the time postage). also i reckon for models this expensive they need to go into more detail about the kit. i want to know if the life boats are metal or wood for example. all companies seem to use the same stock standard blurb to describe whats in the box. nearly all greatly stretch the truth to say the least. chris
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still reckon the good old grey lead pencil rubbed along both sides of the planks before gluing is the quickest, easiest method. easy to sand if off if you go over the edges and once sealed looks great. chris
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Tips and Tricks for Airbrushing
vossy replied to JPett's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
g'day all, this is a great and very much appreciated thread. my question - i live in australia and am currently building the trumpeter 1:200 bismark with the mk1 design full upgrade kit. lots of p.e. so an airbrush is a must for me; but which one? there seem to be so many on the market its just mind boggling and then to add a compressor well the combinations are endless and the price range huge. so can someone tell me what a good gun and compressor for me to purchase here in australia please? i have never used and airbrush but am extremely experienced in industrial commercial spray painting i.e.. airless and hvlp. i really just want advice on a good specific model of both gun and compressor. cheers chris
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