vossy

To me the number 1 golden rule is: build a subject you are interested in.
 
Doesn't matter the kit level difficulty. If you are inspired, and invested in your particular vessel you will turn out a fine model.
 
You will study her more, learn more techniques to complete unknown processes, and most importantly, she wont be an abandoned project.
 
My first model was Amati Santa Maria. I was, and still remain, a Columbus freak. I had zero idea of building a wooden ship, but I was in never any doubt that once I got that kit I was never going to let my hero down by ditching her mid build.
 
Sure, my version isn't the best build of her going around, however, I did finish her, and along the way picked up many, ok 1000's, of tips that have since helped me produce other more complex models.
 
Had I not chosen a vessel I was so emotionally invested in I doubt I would have completed her, and hence any builds since.
 
So, for me, its 100% about a subject you are passionate about. Who cares if you buy Caldercraft Victory and it takes you 20 years to finish her? If you love her you will. And that should be the aim of anyone who begins this journey.
 
Cheers
 
Chris
 

1:64 Revenge 1577 – Elizabethan Race Built Galleon
Amati/Victory Models
Catalogue # A1300/08
 
 

 
The Elizabethan Navy Royal warship Revenge was built at Deptford and launched in 1577. Revenge was a new type of warship, a ‘Race Built Galleon’. She was built following the direct ion of Sir John Hawkins and supervised, it is thought, by the master shipwright, Matthew Baker. Revenge was about 500 tonnes and carried a crew of around 250 men. Contrary to popular belief, the new race-built galleons were not dwarfed by the Spanish galleons but were of equal or sometimes larger size. It is very easy to see the lines of Revenge as a precursor to the Prince Royal of 1610, the Sovereign of the Seas of 1637, or even the Prince of 1670.

The armament of ships of this period varied greatly; guns might be added, removed or changed for many different types of reasons. Revenge was particularly heavily-armed during her last cruise. On this, she carried 20 heavy demi-cannon, culverins and demi-culverins on her gun deck, where the sailors slept. On her upper decks were more demi-culverins, sakers, and a variety of light weapons, including swivel-mounted breech-loaders, called ‘fowlers’ or ‘falcons’. She was considered the best all-round warship in the fleet, and in 1588 she served as the flagship of Sir Francis Drake, and was involved heavily throughout the Armada campaign. In 1591, Revenge and her captain, Sir Richard Grenville, both earned their place in history when the Revenge was overtaken by a Spanish fleet off the Azores. Sir Richard Grenville fought the Spanish fleet for 16 hours, crippling and sinking many Spanish ships before being forced to surrender. 
 
The kit
Revenge 1577 is an Amati/Victory Models joint venture, as was the HMS Vanguard 1787 that I reviewed recently. However, this particular kit was only released in 2015, having been designed by Chris Watton. Like Vanguard, Revenge is packaged into the same monster-sized box so will look pretty imposing when it arrives, plus it will really please your postman who will have to bring it to your door!


If you are remotely interested in this particular kit, you will have doubtless headed to Amati’s website for information on this release. That is given as thus:
 
20 sheets of plans 96 pages full colour building manual with step by step instructions Laser cut plywood, hardwood and MDF Double planked hull Highly detailed photoetched brass parts Precious paper decorations Brass culverins and burnished metal casted cannons  
…now it’s time to look deeper at this kit. 
 
Amati’s artwork for the box is perhaps a little more restrained than that of Vanguard, but still looks equally as impressive, with images of the completed model on the sides of the box. It’s also a fairly weighty box too. When you lift off the lid, you’ll note that the lid is merely decorative, with a single-piece rigid corrugated card box underneath. The lid is secured via large tabs and lifts up to reveal contents. The box is designed to hold large weights within and is very robust. Inside, we have several packets of laser-cut MDF, ply and walnut, a heavy pack with 20 plan sheets, a full-colour perfect-bound instruction manual, bundles of strip wood and dowel, printed flag set, and three large boxes of fittings/components. Everything is packed so as to minimise any movement of items within, and indeed, my sample looked like it had just been packed at the factory.



Opening the first components box, we see a pack of sail cloth, just in case you wish to fit them to your model. I know the convention is to leave sails off, but at lease the option is provided for you here. The material is very pale and would benefit from some ageing using whatever your preferred method. 





Two thick clear bags are now seen, and these include parts for the cannon, in two sizes. The main bags themselves contain some beautiful cast guns with decoration on them, and these have an antiqued finish. I would personally paint these in iron, and the embellishments should look excellent if you then buff them up. Unlike Vanguard, this kit provides wooden gun carriages, machined as a single piece. Again, I am more than happy with this inclusion, and they appear to be walnut. A long piece of thin, narrow copper sheet is included to make the straps from. Two further packs include the eyelets, plus wooden wheels and axles. Very happy with those.

Underneath these bags lie a few clear sleeves of photo-etch parts. Here you’ll find parts for the chain plates and for deadeye securing, doors, grates (maybe they were cast iron on these ships?), and also the Royal crest that adorns the transom. This is built up from two layers of PE and will require some painting. Two name plates are also supplied for the base. You will need to paint the lower relief and then drawn the part over fine abrasive paper to remove anything on the upper relief. 






The second box contains rope, rigging cord, anchor set, culverins, pre-shaped rudder hinges, brass pedestals to mount the model to the base, brass pins, copper eyelets, etc.






Our last box has more goodies for the rigging, such as various-sized deadeyes, blocks and belaying pins etc. You will also find here some brass wire, cast figurehead ornamentation, barrels, stair kit, and parrel beads. All components are securely bagged within their own compartments. 






Amati include some nice timbers in their releases, and here we have bundles of strip wood for the double planked hull (lime for first plank), deck etc. The deck planking actually has a paper identifying tag. Dowel is of walnut, and again, quality is excellent.



A single sheet of laser-cut ply contains the channels and rear gallery doors etc, and a further three sheets of ply are taken over with more channels, facings for the cabin access bulkhead, and the unusual Tudor circular mast-tops.


Two small sheets of wood (not ply) contain rudder and windlass parts, chain knees, and the lower keel. All parts are finely cut and will of course require any charring to be removed, although this is a fairly quick job. 


Two reasonably large sheets of ply contain the beak grate platform, transom, and more bulkhead walls with pre-cut windows and doors. These will of course be individually planked, and various timber fittings and rails added to them. Smaller parts can be found here too, such as cannon shot garlands and rigging cleats.

A further two thick ply sheets hold parts for the various decks, with the exception for the lowest main deck.

The largest ply sheets are fairly thin and for good reason, as they contain the upper bulwarks and sides with the gun port positions pre-cut. These will need to conform to the concave curvature of the hull at that point, hence the thinness of them. They are also joined by an interlocking pattern, so you achieve the correct placement of them.

More laser-cut ply here, with garlands, rudder and forward bow keel section etc.

Five MDF sheets contain all main constructional components, such as the false keel, bulkheads, lowest main deck, deck beams etc. Whilst the curved sides of the bulkheads look very fragile, several builds here on MSW show that there shouldn’t be any real concern as long as you exercise some care and attention.





You will doubtless have noticed that instead of the carved embellishments we see on later and Spanish vessels etc, this Tudor warship has coloured panels along the outer bulwarks etc. Thankfully, you won’t need to paint these at all as they are provided as pre-printed items. Now, the paper they are printed on is heavier than writing paper and is of a type which means that the printing won’t fade. I’m presuming it’s all acid-free paper etc too. Printing is super-high quality and against a wooden texture background for a reason I can’t fathom. Still, these look amazing when added and really bring the vessel to life. All paper parts are numbered, and sections of the sheet listed as for right/left side.

There are 20 sheets of plans for this model, but as well as parts maps which cover several pages, the remainder generally looks to contain information for masting and rigging the ship, plus adding the sails, if you wish. There are other illustrations of the model too, but the hull and fitting out is mostly done using the instruction manual.

When it comes to instruction manuals, Amati really do go to town. Their latest releases, such as the Orient Express Sleeping Car, contain glossy, full-colour photographic instruction booklets with clear English text (Italian also shown). Each stage of the build is clearly shown, and nothing should be ambiguous with this particular presentation. 




Lastly, unlike most model kits, this one does include a base, as previously mentioned. This is machined from MDF and will need sealing and rubbing back before painting. The edges of this are profiled too. With the brass pedestals and name plates, this should look very nice when complete.


 
Conclusion
This model was released in 2015 and comes from the stable of those designed by Chris Watton. Unlike his Nelson’s-era kits, this little gem doesn’t seem to get the recognition is deserves, although as I say, we do have some logs of the build here on MSW. Tudor warships, for me, really are beautiful in their style and execution. I’m a big fan of the Mary Rose (for which I also have a kit), but this particular vessel is more ornate than the Mary Rose and has the galleon-style features that we expect from a ship of this period. Timber quality is excellent, as are the various fittings, and of course, the instructions means that you shouldn’t go wrong during your build. The pre-cut gun ports and jigsaw bulwarks will also ensure a trouble-free project. Cornwall Model Boats currently lists this model for £364.99, and I think that represents really good value for money for a ship of this size (Length: 885mm, Width: 380mm, Height: 655mm)
 
My sincere thanks to Amati for sending out this kit for review here on Model Ship World. To purchase, head over to your favourite Amati-stockist of online retailer)
 
 

 
 

Hi all, does anybody use the sawdust from left over planks mixed with PVA Glue and water to create a very fine filler for very small gaps in hull planking?
 
If so, what mix ratio/consistency do you make your paste? 
 
Thanks
 
Chris.
 

I do the same thing, collecting saw dust from my thickness sander.  I turn off the vacuum that collects the dust for a few passes then collect the dust in small jars for each species.
I dab a little white PVA glue in the tiny gaps and push in some of the sawdust with a finger, let it dry, then sand.   Is it perfect?  Nah, but it does look MUCH better than those tiny slits.  Is it easy to sand, yes, very easy, in my experience.   Obviously, tight fights without those little gaps is best, but.........stuff happens.
Allan

What I have done before is to sand the hull leaving the dust on it and then paint it with sanding sealer across, not along the planks which brushes the sawdust into any small gaps. It is the easy enough to gently sand the whole hull again with fine sandpaper. Works well for me.
 

Whatever color stain you end up applying to the model, the final result will be determined greatly by the original unstained color of the wood you are applying it too.
Personally I like a lot of my older vessel to have a darker look. Given that most, if not all, have been planked with walnut strips in various color tones, I find that if i apply
1 or 2 coats of semi gloss walnut stain this enriches the bare wood and gives it a nice darker shade. Stain is expensive, at least where I live, so doing test patches can be
prohibitive. Dont just rely on the samples you see in hardware stores and paint shops to determine final color. You dont know what substrate those samples were before
they were stained. My guess is that they wont be walnut strips. Plus, I also use water based stain. I think that raising the grain just a little gives a more authentic appearance. 
Also it saves on cost for clean up of brushes etc. and has less odour.
 
Chris
 

Speaking as a "modern" day veteran, 4 continuous hours sleep is a luxury we had during cruising watches. At battle stations etc. you slept for minutes where your
station on the ship was.
 
Ships are dangerous places.
 
Chris.
 

Speaking as a "modern" day veteran, 4 continuous hours sleep is a luxury we had during cruising watches. At battle stations etc. you slept for minutes where your
station on the ship was.
 
Ships are dangerous places.
 
Chris.
 

Hi Jim. Number 1 rule for me is build a vessel that interests you. Try to stay away from more complex hull types such as Victory, Bounty, Endeavour. ie. anything with a bluff bow.
 
Don't expect the instructions to go from A - Z with no problems in between. Indeed, some manufacturers will only provide somewhat rudimentary instructions, and often not in
English.
 
Don't worry if your build doesn't come out looking exactly like the exquisite picture on the box. These are models most likely built by "expert" modellers and photographed by
"expert" photographers.
 
Have fun!
 
Chris.
   

Hi Jim. Number 1 rule for me is build a vessel that interests you. Try to stay away from more complex hull types such as Victory, Bounty, Endeavour. ie. anything with a bluff bow.
 
Don't expect the instructions to go from A - Z with no problems in between. Indeed, some manufacturers will only provide somewhat rudimentary instructions, and often not in
English.
 
Don't worry if your build doesn't come out looking exactly like the exquisite picture on the box. These are models most likely built by "expert" modellers and photographed by
"expert" photographers.
 
Have fun!
 
Chris.
   

Hi Jim. Number 1 rule for me is build a vessel that interests you. Try to stay away from more complex hull types such as Victory, Bounty, Endeavour. ie. anything with a bluff bow.
 
Don't expect the instructions to go from A - Z with no problems in between. Indeed, some manufacturers will only provide somewhat rudimentary instructions, and often not in
English.
 
Don't worry if your build doesn't come out looking exactly like the exquisite picture on the box. These are models most likely built by "expert" modellers and photographed by
"expert" photographers.
 
Have fun!
 
Chris.
   

Hi Jim. Number 1 rule for me is build a vessel that interests you. Try to stay away from more complex hull types such as Victory, Bounty, Endeavour. ie. anything with a bluff bow.
 
Don't expect the instructions to go from A - Z with no problems in between. Indeed, some manufacturers will only provide somewhat rudimentary instructions, and often not in
English.
 
Don't worry if your build doesn't come out looking exactly like the exquisite picture on the box. These are models most likely built by "expert" modellers and photographed by
"expert" photographers.
 
Have fun!
 
Chris.
   

Whatever color stain you end up applying to the model, the final result will be determined greatly by the original unstained color of the wood you are applying it too.
Personally I like a lot of my older vessel to have a darker look. Given that most, if not all, have been planked with walnut strips in various color tones, I find that if i apply
1 or 2 coats of semi gloss walnut stain this enriches the bare wood and gives it a nice darker shade. Stain is expensive, at least where I live, so doing test patches can be
prohibitive. Dont just rely on the samples you see in hardware stores and paint shops to determine final color. You dont know what substrate those samples were before
they were stained. My guess is that they wont be walnut strips. Plus, I also use water based stain. I think that raising the grain just a little gives a more authentic appearance. 
Also it saves on cost for clean up of brushes etc. and has less odour.
 
Chris
 

Whatever color stain you end up applying to the model, the final result will be determined greatly by the original unstained color of the wood you are applying it too.
Personally I like a lot of my older vessel to have a darker look. Given that most, if not all, have been planked with walnut strips in various color tones, I find that if i apply
1 or 2 coats of semi gloss walnut stain this enriches the bare wood and gives it a nice darker shade. Stain is expensive, at least where I live, so doing test patches can be
prohibitive. Dont just rely on the samples you see in hardware stores and paint shops to determine final color. You dont know what substrate those samples were before
they were stained. My guess is that they wont be walnut strips. Plus, I also use water based stain. I think that raising the grain just a little gives a more authentic appearance. 
Also it saves on cost for clean up of brushes etc. and has less odour.
 
Chris
 

Stunning!
 

Hi Ray, some fine looking models you have there. You will find many knowledgeable and friendly people here.
 
Hope you also follow the mighty Brisbane Lions like me!
 
Chris.
 

Hi Ray, some fine looking models you have there. You will find many knowledgeable and friendly people here.
 
Hope you also follow the mighty Brisbane Lions like me!
 
Chris.
 

Hi Ray, some fine looking models you have there. You will find many knowledgeable and friendly people here.
 
Hope you also follow the mighty Brisbane Lions like me!
 
Chris.
 

Hi Ray, some fine looking models you have there. You will find many knowledgeable and friendly people here.
 
Hope you also follow the mighty Brisbane Lions like me!
 
Chris.
 

Sorry I could have sworn you did Bounty. Anyway, I have the Mantua 1:50 Santa Maria heavily bashed and just about to get onto the masts. I decided to leave off the over the top metal
decorations and brass railings etc. as I thought they looked out of place on such a vessel. Most of the metal parts I have replaced with wooden parts I made from various offcuts. I didn't
do a log but will put up pics in the gallery once it is completed. Also pulled out the Amati Bounty that I have that was about half way through some very dodgy first planking. I figure I 
should be able to rescue it and produce a pretty good piece. Also have to finally put a few masts and basic rigging on the Riverboat to finish her off.
 
Chris.
 

I see from my last post that it's been over a month since that one -- a reflection of a very busy November and early December.
 
Also a reflection of the surprising difficulty I found in fitting the fore shroud cleats, pictured here (with a white paper towel background so you can see them).  I suspect that my bottle of CA gel may be getting old and not setting as fast as usual, but I found it hard to get them glued to the shrouds so that I could then apply the lashings.
 
Now to ratlines.
 
Regards,
David

For whom the Bell Tolls!! Man was that Bell hard to do, mostly because of huge fingers lol . I just placed it there for now . I finished my doors and stairs  today as well, waiting for them to dry but I had to see what they would look like  lol. 
  Well on a sad note will be putting  everything away for awhile. My Frist  Mate, and the love of my life, mother is very ill an not going to pull through. 😪  so I will be taking her home in Saskatchewan  and will be gone awhile, we have no ideal how long so I am packing it in for awhile to be with her.  I will return  lol.  later my friends.



 

Don't  you just love cold days. LOL   I figured I would brush some polyurethane  clear satin on the deck and hand rail that are done weee. 
  Some of the 2x2 were higher then others. I don't under stand how that happened,  I measured  once cussed twice boom. But l clamped on a plank and Dremel took care of the rest. Took some pictures now letting it dry for the night. And now I will start on the doors. It's been a fun build so far,  Differently need to learn  how to plank,  also this is where I should say look in MSW data  base for how to  do that ,for any new comer who wants to do it right.
  Well on to the doors and stairs, oohhh maybe I will start the masts lol.  Have fun my friends

Good day!! It's-39 c - 40f. Yep another model day brrrrr!!!🥶.
 I did not get finished with  my Mainrail and capping. Life and a hockey game got on the way. But today I will finish it. I pre cut all the 2x2  according to the plan, most went on ok but 25% needed to be re-done to fit as small discrepancy  are showing up A twist here and there nothing serious . 
 I made this little spacer and went to town..I feel  that it going OK starting  to take shape, Once the rails are done I will be starting  to make the doors and ladders,  got a pretty good ideal how I will make them. But I  going to paint them differently from the plan,  All right stay Warm my friend's 
 
  Bob M.
 
 
 

Well the machine is frozen, -27 with the wind chill, snowing and someone forgot to plug in the diesel tractor . They won't start if not plugged in , mine anyway  lol.
  So guess it's a model day lol. Cutting up peices for the Mainrail, and cap. Hopeing to get that done today.  Talk soon stay warm my friends. lol