UpstateNY

HI Mobbsie,
 
Sorry to read of the accident to your lovely model and the "repairs" are certainly a bit of an eye opener! I love the stand and fact she now seems to "float" above the base.
 
I follow along on your repair build if you don't mind as you return her to her former glory. 
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

HI Mobbsie,
 
Sorry to read of the accident to your lovely model and the "repairs" are certainly a bit of an eye opener! I love the stand and fact she now seems to "float" above the base.
 
I follow along on your repair build if you don't mind as you return her to her former glory. 
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Hi Guys,
 
This log is about the repair and improvement ( I hope ) of the Thames Barge Edme. Edme started out as the Barge Will Everard but was cut down and the boat was mostly a scratch build.
 
Damage occurred during pre-season cleaning and redecorating of the museum, she was dragged from a table by a dust sheet.
The damage is mostly to the Masts and Rigging and although annoying at the time it has allowed me to correct a few mistakes.
 
What has made me angry was the need to reduce the visual damage by bending a metal Cross Tree around the main mast, this particular piece could have been used again but not any more, as if that wasn't bad enough string was also wound around the mast and what appears to be about half a bottle of CA poured over the top.
 
Originally Edme didn't have a stand, she was just free standing but I have now made a stand for her which I hope compliments the boat.
 
The first series of pictures will show Edme pre damage and it will show evidence of my inexperience in boat building.
 

 

 
This is one of my major mistakes, The Edme only has 3 shrouds, here I have 4

 
Now we have a few pics of the damage, I'll let you make your own minds up on these.
 

 

 

 

 

 
The pictorial story goes a lame from here on, progress made wasn't fully documented and so will have some large gaps.
 
As stated most of the damage was with the masts and rigging so the old has been removed, the first thing I wanted to do was to make a stand for her.
 
Here I covered the hull with cling film and using modelling clay to give me a profile, the stand was started.
 
Using MDF the uprights were cut out and Beech laminate glued on, a few clamps, believe me there is an upright in there somewhere.

 
Both upright are now laminated, they just need to be cleaned up.

 
The completed stand, again the base is MDF with a Beech Laminate and double coated with POLY, the cradles were covered with the fibre part of Velcro, they were then drilled and dowel glued in place.

 
Edme now has a nice ? new stand

 
That's enough for now, I will post further updates shortly.
 
I do hope this all makes sense.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

A busy day today, I started by redoing the steering stations , I then made the railing for the Port side. I then painted the Railings including the Rail on the Nav Tower a gloss red. I then made the Main sheet Traveler along with the winch box ( that sits forward of the Traveler) I then Painted the Traveler Flat Black and the Winch box White. I then laid out the Cockpit for the Grinders and steering stations. Next I installed a Volvo logo on the Cabin bulkhead, followed by the 2 forward Grinders the Winch box and Main Sheet Traveler. I then installed the 2 steering stations and lastly the Com Tower. The Cobham/Inmarsat along with the other com tower goodies are painted and ready for installation. Next will be to start Spar making. Here are the results

Today, I started the day by Painting the Com Tower, I then turned my attention to making the 2 steering wheels, I then started fabricating the Steering stations . At this stage none of the parts have been glued into the Cockpit section. Next will be to finish the steering stations, make the winches and Main sheet traveler. Here are the results

First off, I hope that every one had a great 4th of July , that being said, we currently some horrible fires in the area. ( Bayview ID is the big one ) I started on a Sailing version of the Volvo 65 yesterday, By cutting out the frames and Bow section. ( As per plan, and she will be the same scale ) This morning I set up all the frames installed the Bow section, Keelson and Deck Clamps. Next will be to make the Keel box and fair the frames. Here are the results

Hello waikiwi, Thank you , This one is being built static and has been a pleasure to build , as far as the rocker, I am building her as per plan ( lines drawing on posting #1 ) There is a company that makes a RC version ( stock maritime ) and they followed the same drawings that I am using , ( with the forward or bow sections sealed off or water tight will add more buoyancy ) thus preventing submarine effect you speak of. the Volvo Open 70 was a lot easier  to build than the 65 , this has been a very challenging build ( I enjoy a good challenge ) Yesterday I started on a Sailing version of this boat so that she may go in the water. I have cut out all the frames and I am getting her set up in the building jig ( I will post photos later today) she will be the same Scale as this one. Here are a few pics of the stock maritime RC version
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 6 – Upper Stern
 
After erecting all the “square frame” bulkheads, a foundation for the circular stern was fashioned from blocks of ¾” pine – one for the area above the wale and one for the lower section.  First the upper piece.  The first picture shows a piece of ¾” pine stock with a pattern for the top pasted on.
 

 
The pattern for the underside of this piece as well as the pattern for bulkhead 48 showing the positioning of the blocks is shown.  The circular (really elliptical) pattern line on the top of the block is the line of the fancy rail at the top of the framing.  It is also the line of the main rail.  The hull is vertical between these two lines at the stern.  The curve of the lower side of this block – shown on the cut out bottom pattern – is roughly at the line of the wale.
 
In the next picture both patterns have been aligned and attached and the line at the top is being cut on the scroll saw.
 

 
Note that a hole for the helm port was bored through this piece.  The key hole shape of this was cut out once the curve was cut.  In the next picture the piece is held at its proper position on the aft side of bulkhead 48 and the curve of the deck at that point is being marked.
 

 
Do to the shear of the decks, the top of the piece will be higher at the very stern.  The top of the piece is next pared off to yield the correct shear and round up to provide the surface for deck planking.  In the next picture this has been done and the line of the main rail is being marked out.
 

 
The underside of the main rail is about 18” below the fancy rail line to allow two strakes of 6” plank and the 6” main rail to fill the space above the line.  The area below this line is then cut back at an angle to the line on the underside pattern as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Most of the wood removal was done on the disk sander, then refined using the rasp shown.  In the next picture the piece has been glued to bulkhead 48 – after removal of part of the bulkhead pattern.
 

 
Note that the stern piece is slightly smaller than the bulkhead.  This is due to the curvature of the hull.  The forward face of the bulkhead is on station 48.  The aft edge will be faired back to its smaller line.  The other block in this picture – marked with a center line - will be the lower stern piece.  Next time.
 
Ed

The Yakatabune has a walkway platform on either side of the deck house, allowing the boatmen to travel more easily between the bow and stern ends of the boat. 
 
In building this, I'm noticing the use of parts which aren't laser cut and aren't simply cut strips of wood. There is a strip, Part 19, that has an L-shaped cross section. So, this is a milled piece of wood. In fact, as I look through this kit, there are several parts that are milled so that they are notched or slotted. This is kind of a carry-over from the older Woody Joe kits, before they had laser cut parts. But, it's kind of nice.
 
On a Western kit, I think one would be expected to make an L-shaped cross section by gluing together to strips to for the L. Slotted pieces I expect would have to be built up similarly. But, not only are there these parts, but also a fair number of pre-cut parts as well.
 
I also notice some parts are simply pre-cut, again not by laser. It doesn't affect the build in any way, but it's just interesting to see, since we don't often see this in American or European kits.
 

Some milled parts.
 

Pre-cut parts
 

And more pre-cut parts
 
 
Actually, looking back, I realize the parts for the stand were milled and machine cut too. But, the parts are perfectly cut parts, clearly it's not like the old days of die-cutting. I'm guessing they are actually CNC milled. Woody Joe does make some other wood products including castle and temple and small structure kits, plus Japanese flower holder kits and I don't know how much other stuff. 
 
Clare
 
 
 

Hi Igor,
 
Really enjoyed watching you build this lovely model.  
 
The stopper finishes things off beautifully and I love the seal as the finishing touch!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Here is the first carronade rigged build using the same fixture as the long gun. I added a U.S. penny for scale.

Here it is rigged in place on the deck.

A side by side with the long gun.

 
Now to continue on with the rest of the carronades.
 

yea.......sorry Sam........I really don't want it to glow like a ghost ship......    but that would really send out an eerie message now,  wouldn't it 
 
the fascia problem is solved.......I just hope those parts I used were truly extra pieces.   I finally cemented the first pair of cranes in place.......glued in the fascia in place as well.
 

 

 
then all of the life boat cradles were painted white,  on the boat deck.   later I'll go back and touch them up.
 

 
the stern section got the mizzen mast rigging glued in ahead of time
 

 
I started to work on the boat deck structures at this point.  still need to cement in the rigging for the funnels,  and then the A deck and boat deck can be cemented together.  duct work was painted flat white..........the grating grids were then dry brushed with the paint I mixed for the hull........just to soot things up a bit.
 

 
these four ducts are located at the first and second funnel
 

 
finally I got back to the bow section,  and cemented in the fore castle railing
 

 

 
so now it's the boat deck....there's a lot to do here 
 
 

Hi Robb,
 
Your build looks great and I am amazed at how fast you are moving!
 
Enjoy your vacation! 
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Hi Igor,
 
Really enjoyed watching you build this lovely model.  
 
The stopper finishes things off beautifully and I love the seal as the finishing touch!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

I'm hoping for opinions..  and fear not, I can take critique... 
 
I've sanded and shaped quite a bit on the last cant frame and the transoms.   Is this better?  Does it need more work?
I removed 5 planks, the 3 now installed are only tacked into place and will need beveling, etc.   But I wanted to get an opinion.  I'm thinking they look 100% better, but not sure how "accurate" it is.  Do I need more work on this area?
 
I managed to sort out what my references show (unfortunately, no planking expansion but that's to be expected) for plank that's now wrapped around a bit.  Which what the references seem to show.
 
Thanks in advance.  
 

Yesterday I have installed the stopper. Now this SIB is completed.
 
Best Regards!
Igor.

Hi All,
 
Janet's mention in her post above that she is rigging her tiller reminded me I also needed to assemble the rudder and tiller as I am getting pretty close to no longer being able to easily invert my Dragon.
 
I had previously made up the rudder assembly by planking and tree nailing the laser cut former and making up the post using 5mm walnut strips. The tiller was a laser cut part so after cleaning off the char, I drilled out a recess using my Dremel so I could attach the rudder assembly. I added a small walnut piece to the top of the tiller to simulate a through tenon for the rudder post. Brass was used to form the tiller posts for the rigging as well as the larger rod that supports the rudder on the deck.  Just for fun, I also added a brass rod to "pin" the tenon.  Test assembly showed everything seems to fit OK so I just need to blacken the brass and give the wood a coat of poly before gluing everything in place.
 
Thumbnails below...thanks for reading.
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

 

And here is the completed channel!
(three more to go...)
 
I still haven't glued the deadeyes into the channel, I want to stain/oil them beforehand - get everything complete before doing that. Also..... I'm thinking about putting brackets under the channel to give additional support. Thoughts on that?
 
 

I decided to make all the chain plate anchors at once so I took the brass strip I purchased and marked with lines where I wanted to drill the holes. I then segmented out the anchors into three mm strips by marking with a line perpendicular to the drill holes, and then drilled all the holes. (I should've taken a picture of this, but I didn't) Once completed, I cut the individual strips and hammered each out to be flat. Lots of filing to get the curves on the ends, and then attached to the chain. Worked pretty good!
 
btw, does anyone know how to intersperse text with images? I tried on the full editor to use the 'image' button, but it just freezes me up....

The rope order arrived and I rigged up the two long guns to get a feel for doing and learning from them before doing all the carronades. For the benefit of others the breech line is Light Brown .035"(.88mm) and the tackle line is Light Brown .012" (.30mm). The whipping is sewing thread.
 
Here are a sequence of the rigging in the fixture I made which works very well. The big challenge was whipping the breech ropes and the tackle blocks. I used the sewing thread I found to do the rolling hitches rather than the traditional wrapping and it looked more to scale than the .008" from Syren. 
 


In checking over the plans I realized that more eye bolts are needed in the waterway for the gun rigging
Here are the two long guns permanently installed. The excess tackle line will be addressed later once the carronades are completed. I am trapping the tackle line at the bottom of the block as I wrap the black 28 gauge wire with the hook incorporated at the top of the block.
Here are pictures of the long guns in place.



 
Now onto the carronades and set up a mini production line. These will take a while to complete. Thanks again for the suggestion on using the Syren rope; much better than the kit supplied line for the guns.
  

39℃ in shade, jumping in downtown, come back home, napp, and - yeah - tomorrow is easy day, without going to downtown. So, it was to hot to work outside, considering my garage is the coldest place in house, I found a few good reasons to continue with catheads
 
First, color correction of catheads. Line betwern white and black sectipns now follows plank line, as it has to be
 

 
Still not cemented. I decide to make all metal parts of cathead before mounting it, and started with top of cathead.
 
Not enough skill to make it from Cu or brass foil, so ... allmighty less than 0,5mm thick venner strips to simulate ironwork
 

 
After little putty and sanding
 

 
Not bad.
 
And then carving payed my attention and turn me off the planned road
 
Couple of attempts, pretty dissapointed, base is,3,5x3,5 mm, with conclussion I'm just not abble to make it so small, and decided only to visualy mark it, making little relieff bulb, and playing with gold and black acrylic paint
 
Here is result
 

 
Temporary in place
 
 

 
I think I can live with this solution

Hi again.
 
Just glued the stanchions in place.
Tomorrow will fit the hand rails.
 
Denis.

hi all
its about time i did some more work on the cross section.
armament and breeching ropes completed.
ring bolts in place for training tackles.
gangboards in place and brackets for skid beams.
 
 
now the problems.
i was unhappy with the stropping on the training tackles so have discombobulated the lot and will start again. should be enough room to get them in!
 
the other two pairs of brackets dont fit! rather than mess about with them i will remake them.
 
apart from the gangboard railings and turning some pedastals down from brass were nearly there.
 
photos of current progress attached.
cheers for now.........mick

the bridge structure fascia.......what a starting point      this actually turned out to be easier than I thought.   the first thing I did.......I did this right after posting the last update.......was to add to the ends of the part.
 

 
I will need three sets of stairs for this area.......the hand rails was done to look like wood.
 

 
the part then got about 1/8 cut off of the top.......I dunno....some weird number      the slot was trimmed out for the stairs.
 

 

 
...and then the stairs were cemented in place.
 

 

 
the long section of railing was easy......I didn't need to trim much.  but,  for the small section for the port side.  I had to add a piece to it.
 

 
  in place......not to bad    I think
 

 

 
now I need to do the same to the fore castle deck.    it requires two sets of stairs.....all that needs to be added now is the railings
 

 
I added some of the rigging to stern area.......I can't be as cleaver as I was with the bow.  I'll figure something out though.

Hi All,
 
Janet's mention in her post above that she is rigging her tiller reminded me I also needed to assemble the rudder and tiller as I am getting pretty close to no longer being able to easily invert my Dragon.
 
I had previously made up the rudder assembly by planking and tree nailing the laser cut former and making up the post using 5mm walnut strips. The tiller was a laser cut part so after cleaning off the char, I drilled out a recess using my Dremel so I could attach the rudder assembly. I added a small walnut piece to the top of the tiller to simulate a through tenon for the rudder post. Brass was used to form the tiller posts for the rigging as well as the larger rod that supports the rudder on the deck.  Just for fun, I also added a brass rod to "pin" the tenon.  Test assembly showed everything seems to fit OK so I just need to blacken the brass and give the wood a coat of poly before gluing everything in place.
 
Thumbnails below...thanks for reading.
Cheers,
 
Nigel.