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jbshan

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Everything posted by jbshan

  1. jbshan
    Well, she was called by the Dutch 'The Golden Devil.' Looking forward to more.
  2. jbshan
    Yah, what all those guys said.
  3. jbshan
    Wasn't suggesting that. Hook the anchor bill over the rail, just forward of the port and relash it using the shank painter you already have there. It just naturally swings up to that notch. When you get to the other, loose end of the cables, stick them down 2 little holes you make in the hatch cover just aft of the galley stack, or in the main hatch. Wrap the cable around the bitts to secure it, adding a couple of stoppers each side if you wish.
  4. jbshan
    You see there's a notch just above the bill of the anchor? The bill could be brought there and re-lashed, hooked over the rail. I cut out the fore corners of that first large hatch and stuck the ends of the cable down into the hold. The cable would be held in place by belaying it to the bitts, and by a few stoppers to eyebolts on deck and on the knee of the bitts, in case the lashings gave way. Darcy Lever is an inexpensive source for a lot of this seamanship stuff.
  5. jbshan
    Yes. Compare the paint to the hats and tie the crew are wearing.
  6. jbshan
    The 'red paint hides blood in battle' thing probably belongs with the brass monkey ball losing thing. They've redone Victory to a light off white as that's what they found deep below the red paint layers. Pigments of the day were 'earth colors', ground up dirt mixed with oil (train or whale oil) and resin. Blacks, dull reds and dull yellows predominated. That's why barns and boxcars were dull reds, because it was cheap, dirt cheap if you will.
  7. jbshan
    Walthers, the model train supplier, has several manufacturers of model paint.
  8. jbshan
    It's a railroad color, oxide red, from the old solvent-based Floquil™ line. Presumably they still have it in acrylic, but any in that brickish boxcar red will probably do.
  9. jbshan
    If you have access to the frame under the deck, when you get to planking the hull, you can turn things upside down and clamp to that framework. Glue the deck in place and the only place you can 'grab' the hull for planking is the keel.
  10. jbshan
    I see my camera has shifted the colors a bit. The red is an oxide red, like barn paint or red brick. The sides are dark gray, no blueness involved.
  11. jbshan
    In a couple of those pictures you can see what amounts to a fid through the tiller abaft the rudder head. This holds the tiller in place, and being tapered as shown in the pics, you hammer it in farther if it works loose. Note the tackle shown in some of the pics. This is relieving tackle, the tiller was mostly moved by pushing on the tiller. No wheel involved. Port tiller (or helm) means starboard rudder. This caused some confusion and now rudder orders coincide with the movement of the ship's head.
  12. jbshan
    Yes, binnacle. It is basically a piece of furniture with sliding openings on the aft face so the tillerman can see the compass. I didn't model the interior or make doors. It would have no iron fastenings, only brass or wooden. It would be lashed to brass eyebolts or ringbolts in the deck. I have since made the whelps of the capstan larger. I thought it looked kind of skinny. Note the capstan is on an area of thicker planks. Easy enough to do, even now with your deck laid. One of the other model owners had to take his model out, going on vacation, IIRC, and wouldn't be home when the exhibition came down. The club person and an employee of the venue were shuffling the remainder around when one of the big glass shelves slipped. Mine was on top and slid into the side of the display case, dislodging some things and I never got the hatch grating back.
  13. jbshan
    Lazarette hatch or scuttle looks good, Mike. A search for 'lazarette on a boat' leads to a storage space below decks at the stern of a boat. It may have a scuttle on deck or perhaps a doorway if the entrance is below decks. At least you should have had only to make a new cover. My Lawrence/Niagara was on show at a local venue where a shuffling of models led to a fall and crash and loss of the grating for the forward-most hatch. I just made a multi-plank cover for access to the forepeak, using the same coaming. Strangely, the person responsible for the display keeps asking for models for future shows and doesn't understand my reluctance.
  14. jbshan
    The cross piece would probably be underneath. A ringbolt in the center of one end would be sufficient. This would be called a scuttle. It would lead to a small storeroom which would not be occupied except when someone went down to retrieve an item, so no real need for a grating.
  15. jbshan
    Those look good, Mike. Instead of grating, a hatchway, especially a small one, could be closed by a solid cover made up of several planks nailed to a couple of cross pieces, or by the individual planks which could be lifted out.
  16. jbshan
    Try 'isinglass mica'. It was used before glass was available in large sheets, also for carriage windows and stoves.
  17. jbshan
    What I've written is mostly on that wiki website. Start with the home button and just go browsing around. http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Hatchways
  18. jbshan
    Is that a wine locker in the aft deck or a live well? Just curious.
  19. jbshan
    Mike, there are a couple of ways to use the precut grating stock. Some are more wasteful of material than others. http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Hatchways
  20. jbshan
    If it is indeed a rudder angle indicator, HMS Warrior has one on her wheel. It is a partial circle with zero at the top and numbered down to three on each side, the scale ending at about 4 and 8 o'clock. I presume there is a gear train in the hub to turn the indicator needle as the wheel is turned. I won't post a copyrighted picture, I googled hms victory wheel then images.
  21. jbshan
    Mike, go. For some reason known only to the Deity, the Aggies have built one of the foremost centers of nautical archaeology and research in the world.
  22. jbshan
    The roundup or camber (athwartship or side-to-side curve) should also be on the tops of the coamings and gratings. If you have left the deck solid and plan to glue things on top sanding the bottom of your deck furniture is an old trick that some use. It is easier to have the deck openings cut before you mount the deck, if that's the way you are going. I plank around the openings, then insert the objects as required.
  23. jbshan
    The joint at the corners of the coamings is a half lap joint. There is a lip inside the coamings onto which the gratings seat. This serves equally well if solid covers or a series of planks are used, for stormy weather for example. The coamings seat onto beams and carlins of the deck structure. Here's a sketch of my take on this.
  24. jbshan
    If you're looking for really thin wood to build out frame edges, some cigars come in tubes with a cedar liner to keep things fresh and aromatic. If one thickness isn't enough, just add another layer. If you don't smoke, give the cigar to your brother-in-law.
  25. jbshan
    And if you find that you need a couple more planks to cover the stern deadwood, and a couple less of the standard width at the bows, this is where you use drop planks and stealers.

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