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jbshan

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Everything posted by jbshan

  1. jbshan
    Might have been, yes. This vessel is of a size which could have had one. It has a tiller rather than a wheel, also characteristic of a small vessel. I believe there is an appropriate size of barrel for the size of cable. This kit version just looks small in diameter to me. Purely my take on it, without any particular documentary evidence.
  2. jbshan
    They probably have an electric winch to handle the ground tackle, and possibly had a windlass forward on the original. Apparently making capstans was kind of a specialized skill. The kit capstan is kind of skinny and might not work very well.
  3. jbshan
    These are 1/2" scale, but show the same problem as I have run into with Niagara's 1/64". If you run the weapons out fully, you run out of room for the tackles. These are kit blocks and my rope and hooks.
  4. jbshan
    Well, for one thing, look at your deck plan. How were you going to work the capstan?
  5. jbshan
    My copy is a Dover reprint, $9.95. Anderson only talks about parrels and rope trusses, no irons anywhere. His sources are period writings and contemporary models.
  6. jbshan
    *IF* the drawing is correct, the object may be puddening, a fender of sorts to keep the wooden parts from rubbing on each other. I'm in Dave's camp, the time frame would lead me to parrels. If you can, check R. C. Anderson. He covers that time period.
  7. jbshan
    In re size, note the relative sizes of the blocks on the pics. They're pretty small.
  8. jbshan
    Although . . . Here are a couple of shots of Constitution, one of the 24 pdr long gun and one of the 32 pdr carronade. Note the breeching ropes are in a sort of pin arrangement. I don't know where they found this but you could use it for a prototype. Note the two tackles per side on the carronade. Making these will double the number of tackles you need (I know), but the weapon will not function properly without.
  9. jbshan
    Sorry, Mike, put the ringbolt back in for the breeching. You can put the real ringbolt in the hole, hook everything up on your mock up and transfer to the hull when you're ready. This is one place they didn't want to come apart. If the need arose, a few swipes with the knife everybody carried would release the seizings, and it was easy to replace them when needed. Bottom of sheet 4, right of center has the carronade set up. Note also the extra pair of train tackles, used for aiming the slide. There is also a pair of tackle for bringing the weapon back into battery after loading.
  10. jbshan
    John Harland, 'Seamanship' has a fair amount on anchor handling, and lots of good illustrations.
  11. jbshan
    I am told the snaking was only used when action was imminent. Its effect is to keep a cut stay nearly in position for ease of repair and to keep it from coming down on deck and injuring crew members. This is, remember, the largest and heaviest line on the ship.
  12. jbshan
    I found MinWax 'pens' that do a great job controlling where the stain goes.
  13. jbshan
    The stain will only go so dark. You reach the point of diminishing returns. Try to keep your spot treatment aligned with the actual planks so it will seem to be variations in the individual planks.
  14. jbshan
    Exactly. Your block would be the bottom one in the pic.
  15. jbshan
    If you were going to do pumps, it would be four. One each fore and main channels, port & starboard. Well-documented but seldom modeled. However, it does give a hint on the width of the channels, to be able to have pumps there behind the deadeyes.
  16. jbshan
    Breast hook. A deck hook would support a deck and be a continuation of a deck clamp. There would be a whole series of these running down the bows, possibly as far as the foremast step, to hold the sides to the stem.
  17. jbshan
    Coming along, coming along. Clever find with the basket. You no doubt have a plan to paint the new fashion pieces.
  18. jbshan
    Thanks so much for that, Henry. It fills some gaps for me. Mark, the elm tree pumps could certainly move water, but you need the tank or reservoir for extended use. Placed on the channels, just lower buckets ten feet or so and fill the tanks. Tom, I'm just sort of busting your chops, but wouldn't it be a conversation starter to have on a model?
  19. jbshan
    Fire engines. Think of a wash tub with pump handles. There was one in each of the fore and main channels, inboard of the deadeyes. They were filled by buckets lowered from the channel and could pump through hoses. They were made by Ephraim Thayer, one of whose pumps is in the Boston Fire Museum, apparently quite similar, though that one has wheels. Cmdr. Martin has several references to them. Here is another Thayer engine. Just remove the wheels.
  20. jbshan
    Don't forget the fire engines, fore and main channels.
  21. jbshan
    A 'fish davit' of later times might fit through a ring on deck on one end, and in a recess in the rail on the other. There might be a tackle fore and aft to hold the outboard end in position. This might be some combination of fish davit and cathead of later times.
  22. jbshan
    If you're collecting comments, there are indeed valuable models resembling the usual yard sale/family heirloom. These are usually hundreds of years old and are already in museums, so yours is probably not one of them.
  23. jbshan
    It is only on the side, doesn't come over the transom at all, covers the plank ends, as I think you said. It's about the same thickness until it makes the turn. Look straight from the back and it should match the callout on sheet 3, bottom left. I hope the dust helps see the shape.
  24. jbshan
    Carve, chisel and shape. I used I think two pieces glued at the sharpest corner. Rough shape it, try it, refine the shape, try it, and so on. The sides probably don't match totally so make them individually. Where you have your red line is about right for length. Here's a pic:
  25. jbshan
    The colors work much better together now, doncha think? No more Ringling Brothers.

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