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jbshan

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Everything posted by jbshan

  1. jbshan
    Ideally, the rabbet would match the angle required for the garboard to lay into it with a square corner. In other words, the garboard lower edge would stay square and the rabbet would change angle along the keel to accomodate. If you have a square edge to the rabbet along the keel, you can use a wider plank for the garboard and bevel to match the rabbet. That'll also let you bring the upper edge of the garboard up a bit so it lays onto the bulkheads a bit better.
  2. jbshan
    The garboard should not reach all the way forward, but die out as it reaches the stem. You want as much room along the stem as you can get in order to fit in as many planks as possible. It is not unusual for the garboard to have a stealer at the stermpost, or near it, as the opposite condition occurs here, where you don't have enough planks of the ordinary width.
  3. jbshan
    'Perhaps' so it can straighten when the pull of the stays and sails is on it. 'Pretensioned', as it might be.
  4. jbshan
    I didn't find anything definitive on the proportions of the flags, but did find the same emblem you have on your coat of arms flag. It is also on a round shield on the gates of the Greenwich Hospital.
  5. jbshan
    I'm curious about the proportions of the flags. Would they or would they not be the same shape? My reading has left the impression that Navy ensigns and standards were to the same (changeable) proportions, and since the Jack derives from the ensign would the proportions change? I'm glad to see that the St. Patrick's Cross you have rotated to the left to signify its third place in the hierarchy. A small but significant detail.
  6. jbshan
    Preparing for the salute for the launching.
  7. jbshan
    A dumb sheave is basically a hole to run a line through. It has no turning parts so is called 'dumb'. It's like a dead light, which has no glass to see through, so is 'dead'.
  8. jbshan
    Square-sectioned, but maybe just a little thinner so there's more slop to allow a greater pivot angle.
  9. jbshan
    Indeed, the thole slots with that size square sweep shaft wouldn't allow much angular movement. Good catch. If we're still voting, I would go with tossed oars. How you might secure them there without rowers ...?
  10. jbshan
    Mast caps would look similar. Eliminate those from your choices. Lexington appeared when I was at the point you are at. I did masts for Lexington, based on David Lees' book, so could go back now and do Niagara's spars, but in the meantime Philadelphia came out. So it goes, I guess. My avatar leads to a 'build log' showing Lexington's masts, if anybody cares to take a look. They slot together in the same way real ones would have, which I think is important, as if it can work right, it will look right.
  11. jbshan
    The day of Nelson's funeral was indeed cold and blustery. The wind was against, the tide was against and the Puissant High Mucky-te-muck was fussing. The funerary barge additionally was smashed against the pier and was leaking. The relieving oarsmen, who were hiding inside the cabin, had to bail out between Hornblower's legs. To keep track of the time, he tied his watch to the handle of the coffin, just in front of him, and had to retrieve it from Westminster. If I've misstated any of those facts, the full story is in 'Atropos'. Oh, and really nice work, druxey. What can you use for the ostrich plumes?
  12. jbshan
    Or you could locally source a wind generator. :-) I've spent some quality time on my back underneath tractors, thank you very much. There's also Farm Way. I'm thinking of barn fans, though you see big cooling fans on some of the car/hot rod shows. Yes, once the concept is in your head no transom is going to appear quite so daunting again. You have to be able to visualize all the twists and bends. You see there is a corner of sorts where the plank must change from landing on the stern timbers to landing on or near the stern post? You will want a seam between planks to fall exactly there so one can lay horizontal and the other vertical.
  13. jbshan
    So the lightbulb lit, eh? You got epiphanized. Patagonia is supposed to be very nice in June, July and August. You might look into Tractor Supply or McMaster Carr for industrial fannage.
  14. jbshan
    Yes, the tackle would be the fish tackle, but you need something to hook that tackle into. That's what the pendant is for.
  15. jbshan
    Yes, I see it now. The light wasn't making much of a shadow. The planking butts into the stern post, so terminates the rabbet. When you try laying some plank in there, I think you'll find only the teeniest forward most part of that aftermost bulkhead needs to be there, the rest needs to be sanded down some more to allow the plank a clear run at the counter timbers.
  16. jbshan
    Not to add to your work, but you're going to have to very soon get your bearding line and rabbet cut on the stern center plate. It's in your instruction book, and I think maybe on the plans, as well as lightly covered in the link I posted most recently. That'll also help you to understand the shapes you have to deal with.
  17. jbshan
    Let your hull plank run long, then sand it back to match the counter timbers as you come around the corner. Visualize the counter planking laying over the ends of the hull plank along that same curved surface. A round tuck stern, which this is, is not the easiest way to go, but many, many ships had it. You'll see when you get there if the corner blocks need a bit more roundness to bring the hull plank nicely to lay on the angle of the counter timbers. That is where the plank should change from hull to counter.
  18. jbshan
    Mike, you've got basically no planking below the wale, either on the sides or the counter? Just to see where to begin with my invaluable free advice.
  19. jbshan
    Some planking tips are here: http://modelshipwrights.wikispaces.com/Planking+Tips
  20. jbshan
    Psychic. I looked in my crystal ball.
  21. jbshan
    No, the stock is definitely at 90º to the shank of the anchor. You get several pieces all at weird angles to each other and it's hard to see in a photo what's what. They would have belayed the cable to the bitts, even if the anchor was stowed in its place along the bulwarks, so that if the lashings gave way they wouldn't have the anchor running loose to the bottom of the sea. Likewise, in the cable tier the bitter end would be belayed around a mast or other substantial structure so it couldn't run all the way out and they lose the anchor. We don't need to model that, fortunately. Be glad you don't have rigging set up yet, or the cat would have gotten involved when the ship hit the floor and played with all that nice string tied to the model.
  22. jbshan
    Just simply stunning, Bill.
  23. jbshan
    Here's my Lexington model, the Niagara is all black so it might not come out too well in a photo. Note how the bill of the anchor rotates up to hook on the rail (this one doesn't have the nice notch as on Niagara). A simple lashing to a cleat or timberhead will hold it in place. Eventually it would be unhooked from the cat hook and a stopper line used to secure it to the cathead. Inboard, belay the cable in the normal manner around the bitts, and the end goes through a hatch by way of two small holes in the forward corners of the grating. Two or three of a different sort of stopper can be put on the cable inboard of the hawse holes to provide insurance. There's not a lot on the internet specifically and I will not copy a book and post it. I believe Lever, 'The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor' or Harland, 'Seamanship in the Age of Sail' should have good illustrations.
  24. jbshan
    What about iron for the tank? Seems I read something about that material being used in later ships in lieu of barrels.
  25. jbshan
    Your soap sounds a bit like 'Murphey's Oil Soap' available here in the States. You might try first, once you have the 5000 Q-Tips in hand, distilled water as the least aggressive, then, if that is not doing the job, and please, those with delicate constitutions look the other way, saliva. It's not very sanitary, but is an excellent enzymatic cleaner and solvent. A noted ship model restorer used that method on a 1700s three-decker model he was restoring for a museum collection.

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