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jbshan

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Everything posted by jbshan

  1. jbshan
    Here are two pics of the stem area. I think you can blow them up and see the seams.
  2. jbshan
    Yes, the cathook needs to reach to beneath the hawse hole. It would not ordinarily stay hooked, there would be a stopper rope to take the weight of the anchor once it was fished. I chose to show the port side hanging from the hook and starboard fished, the tackle hooked over the rail with the fall belayed inboard. They wouldn't probably ever un-belay the cable, as Niagara was always 'in soundings'. On long deep sea voyages all the anchors would be either fished or stowed below and the cable would likewise all be in the cable tier, below. Check Harland for details.
  3. jbshan
    Top left sheet 4 and T. L. sheet 6. Can use simpler form of parrel (a loop of rope) for both royal and t'gallant yards. Reprieve granted.
  4. jbshan
    Mmmmm . . . I used paper for the bands on the stock. ;-) I made the stock in two pieces so if it became loose you could merely drive the bands further on to tighten it. I don't recall a problem with the knee and sheaves, but make the end nice and curvy smooth. Stowing- bring the tackle up tight, swing the anchor up and hook it over the rail. There's a special section of rail just for that. Look on the plans.
  5. jbshan
    Here's a view into the waist with qtrdeck ladders, boarding ladders, pumps and companionway, also the sternsheets of the boat.
  6. jbshan
    I don't have construction pics of this one. The instructions called for a companionway only half the depth of this one. It didn't look workable so I made mine bigger. The door panels are made of tanganyika, 1/64", just something I had around, as is the rest of it, just scrap wood. The top would fold back to allow access, then you would open a door, steps down to the cabin inside. This structure is only set in. To take it out you lift off the head coaming allowing it to slide forward and unlock. Then you can lift the whole thing out. The bulkhead I set off with the front edge of the quarterdeck 'beam' and planked below that. The qtr deck hangs over the beam and the bulkhead is set back from that, for drainage. There are now steps either side down into the waist and a railing across the top, so you could run across without falling onto the main deck. The binnacle is just abaft the companionway, and tiller abaft that on the qtrdeck and I thought access across might be desirable.
  7. jbshan
    I thought you were going to say don't use fingers to clamp the work piece. I don't think the landlady would take kindly to the smoke and setting off the detector.
  8. jbshan
    John Harland, 'Seamanship in the Age of Sail', shows, on an iron-strapped block, a line trending forward from an eye on the strap, and another line also trending forward from the hook. By manipulating these lines the block could be brought forward and the hook tipped up to engage the anchor ring. If this failed, a man would be lowered either in 'hawse clearing breeches' or in a bowline. A lot of that might be anachronistic for Niagara, but certainly a bowline could have been used.
  9. jbshan
    You wrote: "Before the other end can be seized the line needs to be reaved thru the breech ring at the back of the barrel." Yes. Seize one end, pass through ring and do the other end using your mockup to determine the length. When time comes, you will only need to stick the ring bolts in the holes you already have drilled in the bulwarks. Looking for a good explanation of the cat hook process. Ships had bridle ports right forward to allow better access for this process.
  10. jbshan
    Yes, somebody went over the side to hook in the cat block. Yes, the anchor lining is just an extra layer of plank, sacrificial, to keep the anchor bills from scraping up the actual hull planks. On ships with tumble home, it would be braced out to present a smooth surface. To find the position, hold an anchor under the cathead and swing it up to where it will be when fished. That arc is where you want the lining. The end of the anchor shank has a hole. Make a big ring for this, just like a ring bolt. I wrapped line around the ring to make the puddening. Lever and others call for a more elaborate building up of the line. This is to keep the cable from chafing on the ring. I have the breeching seized to ringbolts and on the guns. You made a mockup 'battle station' and could use this to get the proper length for the breeching line so not to have to do all that while the guns are on the deck.
  11. jbshan
    Yah, the numbers are a bit staggering. For drying they could have rigged lines, I suppose, but two each you'd have up to 1600 to stow during the daytime. That part I haven't figured out yet.
  12. jbshan
    At 'bedtime' the starboard (or port) watch would each take two hammocks from storage, one for each man and one for his neighbor. He would take them below and hang them from adjoining hooks, leaving his buddy's lashed up and his own deployed for sleep. When the watch changed, each man on deck had his hammock already in place and ready to unlash and get into. The dog watches would even this out. The hammocks were numbered as was the stowage in the hammock cranes and the hooks from the deck beams below. Two hammocks issued to each allowed for better cleanliness. How to find yours? Yours was the hammock that didn't stink. Some of this process is in Cmdr. Martin's 'Most Fortunate Ship'. We are of course talking about the sailing ship era. I was surprised to find a drying room surrounding a funnel on (Massachusetts?) covered in one of the magazines. I presume possibly for the bridge watch.
  13. jbshan
    I substituted the second knee brace for the wire specified in the kit. Might as well make some cleats early on so you know how later when there are lots more. :-) Two holes and a groove between for each sheave, yes. Make the grooves shallower in the middle and deeper at the ends; you are simulating a round sheave. They gave you more wood on the cathead so you could file it down to fit. The deck nibbing I did one plank at a time as I laid the plank into place on the hull. You were beyond that part so quickly I didn't mention it. I used a laminated process for the most tightly curved part of the margin plank also, which you had gotten beyond. You can just see the laminations in one of the pics. There is a groove on the end of the cathead which is for the stopper when the anchor is fished and lashed to the bulwark. Explanation if you want it. There is an anchor lining, which I learned is almost universal, so much so that it is not mentioned usually. Anchor rings are puddened, details in Lever, I believe.
  14. jbshan
    Jud, please read this: http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Hammock+Rail+Constructed The first para or so is all from the literature, some of it from regulations of the day.
  15. jbshan
    Mike, I replied on your log page.
  16. jbshan
    Mike, I brought this back to your page so not to hog Ohio Cav's Do either of these shots help with the catheads?
  17. jbshan
    Detail on sheet 3, lower right. The tail wants to be against the inner bulwark planking. The outer part should angle up and out. Make your notch to allow the full width of the cathead to sit on the rail. The small knee should help you determine the angles.
  18. jbshan
    http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Hammock+Rail+Constructed If you think about it, the purpose of the hammock netting is to keep them clean and dry. Netting alone won't do this. If you use the netting for support and put a canvas 'bag' inside, the hammocks will be nicely covered. 'Netting' could be net, a lattice of rope or even housed in with wood panels. I got the method of containment from a period painting. I need a couple more lines to exactly match the painting, and I think possibly lashings at each crossing of the lines.
  19. jbshan
    The gun tackles are in storage, four per carronade. The carrs. and two long guns sit on the deck with breeching ropes attached but nothing is hooked up permanently. You want a clear view for drilling eyebolts etc. for the rigging. I got talked into moving on to Lexington at that point.
  20. jbshan
    I did my carronades on an assembly line of sorts. If you can keep the same tool in your hand for 18 operations, it goes a lot faster. Wait until you get to assembling the 186 (?) blocks, hooks and line into gun tackles. Mine are all in individual envelopes, labeled for the guns. That's as far as I got.
  21. jbshan
    Ummm. They're all spars, some are masts some are yards. ;-)
  22. jbshan
    That saves on ice for the G&T's.
  23. jbshan
    Daniel, Some of the examples on the models do indeed seem useless as far as stowing anything in them, but the hammocks could be put in on a slant instead of vertically if the hammock nettings are shallow. |////////////| rather than ||||||||||||||
  24. jbshan
    Try this page: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-spring-clamps/=12z7xku or here: http://muellerelectric.com/product-category/alligator-clips-insulators/alligator-clips-insulators-aa/ I use the smooth jaw all copper clips. Radio Shack used to have them.
  25. jbshan
    There is a painting which shows the stern of the Niagara and a side view of the Lawrence, but nothing of the interior details. Had there been any official records they would have gone to Washington Navy Yard which was burned later on.

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