jbshan
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jbshan got a reaction from Seventynet in Microwaving the wood?
Wrap it in a wet paper towel and nuke for 30 seconds if your nuker is fairly good. More if it's an old low power one like mine. Test for timing and if needed refresh the water on the towel if it dries out.
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jbshan got a reaction from mischief in Microwaving the wood?
Wrap it in a wet paper towel and nuke for 30 seconds if your nuker is fairly good. More if it's an old low power one like mine. Test for timing and if needed refresh the water on the towel if it dries out.
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jbshan got a reaction from druxey in Introduction of royal yards to the Royal Navy
Boudroit: 74 Gun Ship covers one ship which he put together from a multitude of sources. It is a generic ship design. The full work is, as stated, in four volumes, weighing about 25 pounds, and the last time I looked, the set cost, used, from $563 to $1473. It is certainly worth looking at, if nothing else to see the work of a master. To prove you've read them, you have to report back on what the ship's boy is doing outboard of the catheads in I believe it is the third volume.
Royals: Early royals were indeed set on a long pole head t'gallant mast and properly called t'gallant royals. They were set flying, no lifts or braces and sheeted to the t'gallant yard. They were stowed along the shrouds, with the butt on the lower mast top. Large and later ships set them from a fidded royal mast and they were called royals. Certainly fair weather sails, they had no reefing mechanism and could only be brought in and struck. If you see a painting showing long pole heads to the t'gallants on a ship, she COULD have carried them, though it is not proof. Once royals became common, skysails began to be carried by some extremely tall ships, in the same manner.
Fair American model: The rigging on this model was done in the 1920s shortly after the model was acquired by Mr. Rogers. There is written documentation stating that this was the case, by the man who did the work.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
I used to do RR models that way, the diecast type came out with a really nice finish.
The hardest thing was to know when to stop before the runs began. The first couple of finish color coats you can leave a bit spotty, it'll all come out in the wash.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
I was taught to stay back from the work piece so that the paint was just shy of dry when it hit the piece and do a few light coats. Being that your funnel is all metal, you can bake the paint on in the oven. Set the temp to just barely on, 200 degs or so so the paint smell goes away. Maybe 10 or 15 minutes. Make yourself a stand to hold the piece while you paint as well. In your case maybe a tapered vertical post to jam into the funnel tube. Paint a little, rotate, paint, rotate and so on. If the base is big enough you could pick it up (gloves helpful) and do the inside. Just some thoughts, Sir.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
I used to do RR models that way, the diecast type came out with a really nice finish.
The hardest thing was to know when to stop before the runs began. The first couple of finish color coats you can leave a bit spotty, it'll all come out in the wash.
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jbshan got a reaction from druxey in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
I used to do RR models that way, the diecast type came out with a really nice finish.
The hardest thing was to know when to stop before the runs began. The first couple of finish color coats you can leave a bit spotty, it'll all come out in the wash.
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jbshan got a reaction from Jack12477 in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
I used to do RR models that way, the diecast type came out with a really nice finish.
The hardest thing was to know when to stop before the runs began. The first couple of finish color coats you can leave a bit spotty, it'll all come out in the wash.
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jbshan reacted to michael mott in Bending with heat only
A recent tool acquisition and remembering Chuck's tutorial on planking, and Druxey's question regarding the hot air soldering station for bending wood.
I can say that the tool works brilliantly for this task.
The photograph shows a strip of hard maple .041" x .125" using the middle sized nozzle 1/4 inch diameter and using the highest temp setting the strip became very pliable in seconds
The other strip is .o41" x .2" Castello and it was the same in seconds it became very flexible and bent very easily.
Obviously there are all sorts of other tests that can be done at varying temps etc but I have a feeling that this tool will be a very useful one in the tool kit from now on.
Thanks again to Wefalck for putting me onto this tool.
Michael
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jbshan got a reaction from Tompslattery in Bevel 2nd planking
My latest boat I used very thin stock for the planking. I did the shaping with sandpaper, so as I put the (roughly figured) spiled shape on the plank, I would add a tiny bit of bevel at the same time.
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jbshan got a reaction from Canute in Bevel 2nd planking
My latest boat I used very thin stock for the planking. I did the shaping with sandpaper, so as I put the (roughly figured) spiled shape on the plank, I would add a tiny bit of bevel at the same time.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in Bevel 2nd planking
My latest boat I used very thin stock for the planking. I did the shaping with sandpaper, so as I put the (roughly figured) spiled shape on the plank, I would add a tiny bit of bevel at the same time.
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jbshan got a reaction from dgbot in Bevel 2nd planking
My latest boat I used very thin stock for the planking. I did the shaping with sandpaper, so as I put the (roughly figured) spiled shape on the plank, I would add a tiny bit of bevel at the same time.
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jbshan got a reaction from Canute in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
That sounds OK, Mike. I was thinking there was nothing holding the eye except the glue and that didn't seem quite secure enough if the glue should let go. What you describe sounds similar to my technique which I learned fro a dedicated rigger. I make the eye, put a small clamp on it, then secure with smaller line in a series of half-hitches, then a bit of glue just to hold the loose ends down.
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jbshan got a reaction from Chasseur in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
Sooo....
Mask oversize, cut mask to shape, paint, remove mask, leaves nicely shiny brass stripe with paint on body of funnel.
I could show you how to scatter a little salt on your watercolour painting, or use clean water on dry paper to limit a wash, but this masking thing is new. Intrigued to see how it comes out.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
Sooo....
Mask oversize, cut mask to shape, paint, remove mask, leaves nicely shiny brass stripe with paint on body of funnel.
I could show you how to scatter a little salt on your watercolour painting, or use clean water on dry paper to limit a wash, but this masking thing is new. Intrigued to see how it comes out.
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jbshan got a reaction from FriedClams in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
Sooo....
Mask oversize, cut mask to shape, paint, remove mask, leaves nicely shiny brass stripe with paint on body of funnel.
I could show you how to scatter a little salt on your watercolour painting, or use clean water on dry paper to limit a wash, but this masking thing is new. Intrigued to see how it comes out.
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jbshan got a reaction from FriedClams in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
It might come off cleaner if you run a blade along the edge first, in the joint between funnel tube and banding strip. Further testing will reveal proper technique, no doubt.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
Sooo....
Mask oversize, cut mask to shape, paint, remove mask, leaves nicely shiny brass stripe with paint on body of funnel.
I could show you how to scatter a little salt on your watercolour painting, or use clean water on dry paper to limit a wash, but this masking thing is new. Intrigued to see how it comes out.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
It might come off cleaner if you run a blade along the edge first, in the joint between funnel tube and banding strip. Further testing will reveal proper technique, no doubt.
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jbshan got a reaction from michael mott in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
Sooo....
Mask oversize, cut mask to shape, paint, remove mask, leaves nicely shiny brass stripe with paint on body of funnel.
I could show you how to scatter a little salt on your watercolour painting, or use clean water on dry paper to limit a wash, but this masking thing is new. Intrigued to see how it comes out.
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jbshan got a reaction from WackoWolf in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
Sooo....
Mask oversize, cut mask to shape, paint, remove mask, leaves nicely shiny brass stripe with paint on body of funnel.
I could show you how to scatter a little salt on your watercolour painting, or use clean water on dry paper to limit a wash, but this masking thing is new. Intrigued to see how it comes out.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
That sounds OK, Mike. I was thinking there was nothing holding the eye except the glue and that didn't seem quite secure enough if the glue should let go. What you describe sounds similar to my technique which I learned fro a dedicated rigger. I make the eye, put a small clamp on it, then secure with smaller line in a series of half-hitches, then a bit of glue just to hold the loose ends down.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
It might come off cleaner if you run a blade along the edge first, in the joint between funnel tube and banding strip. Further testing will reveal proper technique, no doubt.
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jbshan got a reaction from michael mott in Albertic by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100 - RESTORATION - Bassett-Lowke Model
It might come off cleaner if you run a blade along the edge first, in the joint between funnel tube and banding strip. Further testing will reveal proper technique, no doubt.
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